glue blocks/battens/furring strips

[Jamesbeat]

Whatever you call them, I'm looking into buying some wood strips to attach my cabinet together.

When I built my bartop, I used 2x2 dimensional lumber (actually around 1.5 x 1.5) but looking at other builds here, people seem to use smaller strips that are rectangular rather than square in cross section.

I'm trying to picture how rectangular strips would work with screws. It seems like you would need two different lengths of screws, one for the shorter dimension, and another for the longer dimension (assuming screwing from the inside rather than through the face of the board). Don't square strips make more sense?

Also, what are these things actually called, ie what should I ask for at the store?

I don't have access to a table saw to rip my own, so I need to buy wood that is already the right shape.

[Slippyblade]

For bartops, I get the 1" square dowels from Home Depot.  For larger cabs, use whatever you can get hold of or just stick with the 2x2 stuff you already have.

[RetroArcadePro]

Either HD or Lowes have what I think they call craft sticks. They are if I recall 1"x.5"x48"

[JDFan]

I usually use these ( http://www.lowes.com/pd_4511-99899-128218___?productId=50069451&pl=1&Ntt=furing+strips ) 1x 2 pine/spruce furring strips (actual size is 3/4" x 1.5" ) as they are cheap at $1.28 for an 8 foot piece and then use 1" or 1 1/4" screws into the 3/4" side depending on the thickness oif the side panels ( 1/2" or 3/4" )

Figure the screws are mainly just to hold the strip in place while the glue dries and not to hold the strip in place - once the glue dries the screws can be removed and the hold will be just as strong ! 

[Jamesbeat]

Thanks for the replies guys.
I actually went to Lowe's before you replied, but it looks like I got something that will work.
I bought four 2x2 ( actual 1.5 x 1.5) like the ones I used for my bartop.
Looks like I should be ok with those, even though I could probably get away with something smaller.

That brings me to the subject of screw lengths.
I made my bartop out of scrap wood as a proof of concept, so I just screwed through the face of the board.
I'd like to screw from the inside for this cabinet, so I need screws that will not poke through the other side.

Given that my furring strips measure 1.5" and I'll be using 3/4" plywood, what length screws should I use?

The answer at first appears to be 2" screws, which would give me an allowance of 1/4", but it might not be that simple.


Is 1/4" enough 'breathing room', or should I use 1-3/4" screws?

if I use 1-3/4" screws, will they penetrate far enough to grip the plywood securely?

If I use 2" screws and countersink them, will that make them penetrate further than 2"?


Who would have thought buying some screws would be so difficult?

[JDFan]

IF the might countersink a bit I'd go with the 1 3/4" - better to have to countersink a bit to get deep enough than sticking through the outside !! ( Besides as mentioned above the screws are mainly to hold until the glue dries ! )

[Slippyblade]

James, you are putting to much thought into the screws.  The screw is actually the weak point in the build.  The glue bond is stronger than the screw joint.  The screws are literally only there to hold things square till the glue sets up.  Use the smallest, lightest screw that you can find that will hold the piece together long enough for the glue to dry.  Heck, I don't even use screws.  I use 18 gauge nailing brads in an air gun.

[Jamesbeat]

Yes I know, I just don't want the screws to burst through the sides of the cab.
I'll go with 1-3/4 to be safe.

I was actually considering using just glue, but that would necessitate buying a load of clamps and/or extended waiting periods while the glue dries.

[vwalbridge]

James, you are putting to much thought into the screws.  The screw is actually the weak point in the build.  The glue bond is stronger than the screw joint.  The screws are literally only there to hold things square till the glue sets up.  Use the smallest, lightest screw that you can find that will hold the piece together long enough for the glue to dry.  Heck, I don't even use screws.  I use 18 gauge nailing brads in an air gun.

+1 on this right here. Wood glue and a nail gun is exactly how I do it.

I've never liked the awkward angle you have to get your drill to screw in a baton. And frankly more trouble than they are worth. The glue is whats holding everything together anyway.

[Jamesbeat]

I was wondering about the screwdriver angle thing actually.
Like I mentioned above, I just screwed through the face of the boards last time, so this wasn't a problem, but it's going to be a pain to screw from the inside.
I might have to pick up an extended bit holder to decrease the angle somewhat.
I understand that the glue is what actually does the job, but I don't have a nailgun, so I'm still going to need to use screws for assembly.

[RetroArcadePro]

You could always buy wood magnets to hold them in place while the glue dries.

[Jamesbeat]

You could always buy wood magnets to hold them in place while the glue dries.

Gah! Either there is really a clamping device called a wood magnet that I can't find on Google, or you're yanking my chain and I fell for it

I know next to nothing about woodworking. I'm still looking for a can of plaid paint and a left handed screwdriver.

Luckily, I did manage to find blinker fluid for my car:

http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=22

[RetroArcadePro]

They have the left handed screwdriver you are looking for as well.

 http://kalecoauto.com/index.php?main_page=advanced_search_result&search_in_description=1&zenid=h1V6inHboiVdp1svKrSfC0&keyword=left+handed+screw

If the piece can be laid horizontal you could use tape to hold it in place and place a heavier object on top.