Game Elf Cocktail Cabinet Screen Glitch - Any Thoughts?

[Stevedry]

Greetings! My Dad is an old time gamer. He's especially a sucker for old arcade cocktail cabinets. So for Christmas this year I got my pop a Game Elf cocktail cabinet. I badly wanted to build it myself, but work this year made it impossible to find time. I purchased this cabinet.

I also got the optional 412-in-1 upgrade, from the 60-in-1.

It's a beautiful machine. But I have this screen glitch is driving me nuts -- it's a static-y red band that goes horizontally across the screen. I've been building my own computers forever, but the insides of this are a bit foreign to me. I played with the power potentiometer dial, but it made no difference. Here is short video that I recorded that shows the problem pretty clearly:

Here it is on YouTube for those that hate Quicktime:


Absolutely any thoughts would be amazing. Thanks everyone!

[PL1]

Welcome aboard, Stevedry.   

I suspect that the red stiatic-y bands might be caused by the monitor's LCD controller board or panel connector.   

You may want to contact the (un-named due to Rule 5) vendor to see if they will fix/replace/exchange the monitor.


Scott

[leapinlew]

Check/replace the cables or output to a different LCD to see if the problem is with the LCD or output from the Game Elf itself.

[johnrt]

I do hate quicktime, so thanks for the youtube-link. 

I would have tried with another monitor to see if the problem is still there.

[Stevedry]

I'm going to try another monitor and try to isolate the problem. Now I just have to track one down that still has a VGA input.  Rest in peace, VGA.

Thanks everyone! If there are any other thoughts that would be awesome.

[behrmr]

When you played with the "power pot dial" I assume that is on the switching power supply.  What did you do?  Did you just tweak it up and down with the board connected?  Did you use a DMM to test the output voltages?  Make sure your +5V is about 5.0-5.1 and no higher and check again.  If you cranked it up too high while the PCB was connected you could've damaged the game PCB too.  And how are you powering the LCD? A/C or did you tap into the switching PS DC output to power the monitor?  This seems to be something people are doing a lot on bartops.  So check your logic grounds and your FG's while you are at it too.

[Stevedry]

LOL
I can't stop laughing.
I'm so embarrassed. I've considered myself pretty savvy when it comes to electronics and computers, but I understood about 12% of what you said. I'm brand new to this (and I mean braaaaaand new) and I feel like I'm an 8 year old who just dove into the deep end of the pool.

Regarding the power pot dial, you're correct -- it's on the power supply. I turned it about 2mm clockwise from L to H, based the builder's instructions. There seemed to be absolutely no difference before and after this modification, but now I'm paranoid that I shouldn't have messed with it at all based on what you're saying.

Again, I'm really embarrassed about this, but the only way to learn is to ask. I'm sure I'll feel like an idiot when you answer.
- What is a DMM? I'm assuming it's a tool to test output voltages? I didn't build this myself, so I'm basically decompiling what was given to me. I'm so embarrassed. I seriously can't stop laughing. I'm really humbled right now.
- I definitely didn't damage the PCB on my end. This is how it was delivered to me, but I suppose it's possible that it arrived this way. Damn you unnamed Hong Kong manufacturer!
- Regarding the LCD, what is the ideal way it should be powered? And how could a novice like myself be able to tell?
- FG - Again, so embarrassed. What is an FG?

Thanks for the input. I really appreciate it, even if I'm a little behind on my knowledge of this stuff.

[behrmr]

LOL
I can't stop laughing.
I'm so embarrassed. I've considered myself pretty savvy when it comes to electronics and computers, but I understood about 12% of what you said. I'm brand new to this (and I mean braaaaaand new) and I feel like I'm an 8 year old who just dove into the deep end of the pool.

I played with the power pot dial based on the builder's instructions. There seemed to be absolutely no difference before and after this modification, but now I'm paranoid that I shouldn't have messed with it at all based on what you're saying.

Again, I'm really embarrassed about this, but the only way to learn is to ask. I'm sure I'll feel like an idiot when you answer.
- What is a DMM? I'm assuming it's a tool to test output voltages? I didn't build this myself, so I'm basically decompiling what was given to me. I'm so embarrassed. I seriously can't stop laughing. I'm really humbled right now.
- I definitely didn't damage the PCB on my end. This is how it was delivered to me, but I suppose it's possible that it arrived this way. Damn you unnamed Hong Kong manufacturer!
- Regarding the LCD, what is the ideal way it should be powered? And how could a novice like myself be able to tell?
- FG - Again, so embarrassed. What is an FG?

Thanks for the input. I really appreciate it, even if I'm a little behind on my knowledge of this stuff.

Sorry about that....

A DMM is a Digital Multi Meter.  You do not typically go cranking the voltage knob on the power supply without metering it.  Sometimes even a small adjustment, especially if you did it by hand vs. using a small screwdriver, can cause a big momentary voltage spike and make bad things happen. 

On any builds I've done I use the A/C input to power my monitors.  But a lot of guys are tapping into the power supply of the game directly to bypass that.   My thought was if that is happening you might be seeing "noise" from the power supply affecting your monitor.

The "FG" is the Frame Ground or the A/C input from the house mains - the green wire or third prong of a plug.  I've seen some monitor issues when the monitor and the power supply share this common ground.

I think that the best thing would be to get a meter (or a friend that has one) and make sure your +5V is set between 4.9 and 5.1 volts.  Then try a different monitor if you can find one.  Any PC style LCD or CRT will work.  Many TV's have VGA inputs too.

Good luck.