Sega pots connected to U-hid.com not enough adjustability - switch to 10k??????

[rmwilson]

Okay doke after one hell of a time trying to connect my Manx Tt (Sega) bike cabinet to a u-hid board (with all kinds of mis mapping of pins and such (I'm such a dink) one headake after another....holly frustration batman. 

now i can't seem to configure it enough to make it work right .

I want to play moto gp 14, (and eventually moto gp 15) on a PC using the sega manx TT as thee controller. There are three pots, Brake, gas and left/right (angle/ lean).

I have tried a million settings in the uhid configuration tool, but can't seem to get it to work - the throttle will sort of work but then all of a sudden the back wheel on the bike just starts spinning faster than the bike can get traction and only goes 20 mph ... even when i adjust the sensitivity way down no go... I also have played a fair bit with the scale adjustment and still not right .... its unplayable ---

Question is there a way to make the uhid / and windows make the controller more like a regular controller (like a xbox) --- or do I need to switch out my pots ... ? if so any one know what would be compatible as far as turn and such goes or will it not matter if its a newer pot and configured with windows joy.cpl config utility ?

I welcome all thoughts....

[PL1]

Switching to 10k pots won't make a difference on your 3 wire potentiometer setup.

Potentiometers with only 2 wires connected are variable resistors like Atari 2600 Paddles.

These would be affected by changing the pot value since these encoders convert the analog resistance to a digital position.

Pots like yours that are wired with 3 wires are voltage dividers.

Center any linear potentiometer (green line) and the wiper will read 1/2 the voltage between tabs 1 and 3.

Turn the wiper to the blue line (90% of the way from ground to 5v) and you will get 4.5v. (0.9 * 5 = 4.5)

The encoder translates the analog voltage into a digital position.



Have you checked BadMouth's sticky thread here that covers configuring analog controls?

                 For 270° wheels, set the joystick deadzone to .05 in the mame.ini file;
                 the default .3 means that you have to turn the wheel fairly far before it does anything.
                 Joystick saturation narrows the operating range of your wheel, i.e. you only have to
                 turn it halfway before MAME sees it as being turned all the way.  Set it to 1.
                 Controls are mapped in the same way as any other input in MAME (press TAB in game)
                 In the MAME menu under analogue settings, adjust the sensitivity to suit each game.
                 Most 270° wheel games require sensitivity set to the 100-200 range.
                 Digital settings adjust how key presses respond when substituted for analogue controls.
                 They do not affect analogue controls.  It also may be necessary to invert the axis in this menu
                 if MAME registers a pedal as depressed when it is all the way up and vice versa.
                 Do not map the pedals to PEDAL INC and PEDAL DEC!
                     Do not map the wheel to DIAL INC and DIAL DEC! 
                 Those are reserved for key presses being substituted for analogue input.
                 If you map an analog control to one of those, ANY movement will be interpreted the same as a key press would.
                 In other words, your controls won't be interpreted as analog anymore...and you're gonna have a bad time.

Please avoid using MAME for troubleshooting until you are certain that you have the controls properly connected and working as desired -- it adds a bunch of variables that can cause confusion.   


Scott

[obcd]

Have you checked the output from the potmeters? Just measure the voltage of the output and see if it gradually goes up when you turn open the trottle. Check the same with the brake lever. Maybe the brake idle level is to high and the game assumes you are braking. Some games have a stoplight that can give an indication that the game thinks the brake is activated. When a potmeter is bad, it's possible that it suddenly jumps to it's maximum output voltage. In case of trottle, this would be seen as full trottle.

[BadMouth]

Have you calibrated it in windows gamepad properties?

Or in the game if there is such an option?

I haven't used a UHID, but in my hacks, the 5k pots haven't had enough "resolution".  It's like the analog movement is moving in big steps.   I thought the apac and uhid handled things differently and was supposed to be better in that respect though.

Sometimes you just have to experiment.  Especially when nobody has gone before you.

[Xiaou2]

It may be the Physical position that the Pot is locked down at.

 You may have to loosen the connection, and turn the pot in a different spot,  then lock it down again.

 With some controls, such as Throttles, they are sprung to travel in only one direction.  The pot is usually locked down so that it starts out nearly the beginning values (turned all the way to one side).  I believe these have to be set up in mame in such a way, to let mame know that its not using a center value start.  (single axis, i believe)

 With controllers like analog joysticks,  the pot tends to start out centered, and so can travel either direction equally. (dual axis, i believe)

 You have to be very careful, because if you lock down the pot in the wrong place... and then you use the controller... it could end up moving the pot past the end of its travel stop... effectively breaking it.   If it doesnt break completely.. it might just skip to the lowest or highest value.. because it now has looped the thing past where it was supposed to stop.

 Also , Some games are designed to accept a certain range of values.   If the game sees values that are incorrect, it may cause the kind of things you are experiencing.  Either the car/bike going too fast.. or too slow... or completely stopping somewhere in the middle of your throttle.

 If the thing calibrates fine in windows...  then it could be a mame setting.  Delete the INI / cfg  files and try again.   Also... the particular game itself may need internal calibration.  Use the test menu switch, and use the games actual pot test and calibrations.   It often tells you what value ranges it should be getting. Or, it will just conform to the new values after you turn the controller to the min and max positions.  (but again, only if the pot is set at least in a valid expected range area)