First build - I want to replicate the "4 player TMNT pedestal" post

[tocheeba]

I'm trying to duplicate this:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=134038.0

It gives me a pretty good idea of what I'm doing, so hopefully with some trial and error, I'll get there (wood working the CP is the hardest part since I haven't done it).

I do have some questions, though:

• I'm thinking of buying the wires with the quick disconnects already on there. How would I daisy chain these then? http://www.focusattack.com/green-16pc-22-awg-wire-with-110-quick-disconnect/
• I'm probably getting the IL Eurojoy sticks, since they have the colors I want. What's the difference between .110 and .187 wiring?
• Trackballs - I don't need a crazy fancy one, but I need one simple enough to connect and configure via USB (I'm using the IPAC4 and it looks like it doesn't have room for a trackball). I've been looking at a few, and it looks like some require a bunch of adapters, etc.
• 22 gauge or 16 gauge wiring for the buttons/joysticks?
• Do I really need to use a router to mount the joysticks and trackball? I read that using 3/4" MDF it isn't required - does it just help hold them in place?

thanks any help is appreciated. I've done a couple builds where I bought a CNC cut kit already, so making my own CP is the hard part.

[DeLuSioNal29]

Welcome to the forums!

If you are planning on buying the wires with the quick disconnects already on there, I suggest buying a JAMMA harness and cutting the wires off instead.  You get more and they are different colors.  Most of them are 22 gauge with .187 connectors which is what you need for IL joysticks and HAPP buttons.  It even comes with the already daisy chained ground wires.

Here's a US seller that I like to use and he has quality JAMMA harnesses (has -5v additional wires so you get more wiring, plus he's in the US so fast shipping):  See this link.

The .110 connectors are smaller and used for Japanese buttons (Sanwa and Seimitsu).  The Japanese buttons are 30mm so require a bigger hole in the control panel.  Most people use IL buttons or Happ buttons which require a1-1/4" hole and have .187 connectors.

Trackballs - Ultimarc's and GroovyGameGear's both have USB interfaces.  (Ultimarc's requires one that you can purchase as an addition in the cart when checking out).  These are both mounted totally differently so depending on how you want to do it is what you should purchase.  GGG's requires a trackball plate to mount it.  Ultimarc's does not.

22 gauge is the way to go for the joysticks and button wiring.

You don't need a router necessarily:  You can get away with mounting the joysticks from underneath 3/4" wood.  Just make sure the shaft is long enough.  Some joysticks are made for metal (thinner) control panels.

D

[tocheeba]

Thanks for the quick reply! I don't mind spending a little more money on something that will be better looking and less of a rats nest. I was thinking of buying 4 different colored wires for each player, then black for ground. I see lots of ground wiring harnesses around the web, but they are all the same length - i'll need longer areas, etc. I want it to be as clean as possible - preferably cutting them to my desired length between buttons. Is there a simple way of doing this? Should I just buy the basic wire, and put my own quick disconnects on each end?

Thanks for the trackball info. If I want to get the 'clear' pearl colored one from Ultimarc that can light up a ton of colors, I should just need to buy the pearl colored trackball and LED RGB pcb control board right? Sorry, just don't want to drop $100+ on a trackball if I'm not 100% sure on what I'm buying. I'm getting the USB adapter as well. It says it needs a 5v power supply though. What is the easiest way to power the LED board?

Thanks

[DeLuSioNal29]

Check out this topic with videos to get you going.
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,80229.0.html

I'm planning an updated "how to" on crimping and wiring in the future.  Keep an eye out on my channel.   

[severdhed]

I haven't been on the forums much lately, i just found your thread.  First of all, i'm flattered that you want to replicate my cabinet, i'll try to help out in any way that i can.

a router is not necessary for mounting joysticks, but if you are using 3/4" wood, you may find that the joystick seems a bit short if you don't route out from below.  my suggestion is take a scrap and mount your stick and see how it feels. 

that being said, a router is the most useful tool you can have for building a cabinet.    Not only can you use it to recess areas in the wood, but also for cutting the slot for tmolding and cutting plexiglass.    you can pick up a cheap trim router at harbor freight for around $30.

http://www.harborfreight.com/14-in-24-amp-trim-router-61626.html

i did borrow a larger router from a friend for doing some of the routing on my 4 player cabinet, but the trim router is more than sufficient, and easier to use for certain things ( button holes)


as for trackballs, the ultimarc utrak easily mounts in a 3/4" panel without routing or a mounting plate, which is a huge plus, however the groovy game gear electric ice-t just feels better, in my opinion.  it is a little more work, you need a mounting plate and a router to make it fit like i did, but it just has a smoother feel to it than the ultimarc unit.  as for the illumination, they both look great.  if you just want a single color, you can connect the LED directly to the red and black wires of your PC power supply.    I have the ultimarc trackball in my upright cabinet and the GGG trackball in my pedestal, both of which are connected to an optiwiz controller from GroovyGameGear.  the current version of the optiwiz has a set of 5v and ground pins on it that you can use to wire up your LEDS.  this won't help if you want them to change colors , but for a single color it works just fine. 


for wiring, i say get a spool of wire and a pack of crimp on connectors and make your own.  that is the best way to make sure they are all exactly the length you need them to be.  if you are going to crimp your own, make sure you get a set of ratcheting crimpers, your hand will thank you.  i was on my 4th or 5th panel before i bought a set and i could kick myself for not doing it sooner.   my 4 player pedestal has 31 buttons, which is 62 crimps...that can be tough on your hands if you are using crappy crimpers.    i bought mine at harbor freight for $15....and they were well worth it.

http://www.harborfreight.com/ratcheting-crimping-tool-97420.html


i learned many things over the years building multiple cabinets and looking at the amazing examples on this forum.   here are the things i've learned:

1. you need a router, they cut plexiglass like a hot knife through butter
2. t-molding makes a world of difference, don't skip it
3. use t-nuts to mount joysticks with no visible bolts
4. control panel artwork is worth the cost