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Author Topic: 60-in-1 stopped taking (S1) button input while game on :(  (Read 1023 times)

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dreamteam

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60-in-1 stopped taking (S1) button input while game on :(
« on: September 13, 2015, 11:21:31 am »
I have a Pacman/Ms Pacman Upright Cabinet 60-in-1 Upgrade Complete Kit.

What this does is allows me to take your edge connector from my Ms. Pac-Man game and plug it into the 60-in-1 via an jamma adaptor.

It automatically sets the Player 1 button as PL1 and fire.

It has been working perfectly since I got it 2 weeks ago.

All of a sudden the (s1) player 1 /fire button stopped working.

First thing I did was plug my edge connector back into my original Ms. Pac-Man board. Player 1 buttons works perfect so must be a problem with the 60-in-1.

Next I get out the multi-meter and test to see if the (s1) or Player 1 button wire is getting connection from the edge connector through the Jamma adapter to the 60-in-1 and I can confirm it definitely is.

I booted into the 60-in-1 controls test screen - TEST I/O to see if I could make the (S1) manually trigger as I was jumping the connection with the multi-meter but I was unsuccessful.

I'm not to familiar with these 60-in-1 pcbs.

Has anyone else had this problem or can point me in the right direction to get this fixed?  Maybe I need to return it?

Thanks so much.
« Last Edit: September 13, 2015, 12:48:29 pm by PL1 »

lilshawn

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Re: 60-in-1 stopped taking (S1) button input while game on :(
« Reply #1 on: September 14, 2015, 02:40:27 pm »
i would say you would have to return it.

to double check, keep the edge connector connected to the board and see if you can continuity prob on the pad itself. the wire may be good but the contact in the edge connector may be no good and not pressing hard enough on the 60-in-1 pcb.

also measure the resistance of the switch itself, if the feedback to the PCB does not reach a certain threshold, it may not trigger the input. switches sometimes get corrosion on the contacts and will measure many ohms when closed...not enough to trip the input from open to closed. they should ideally read 0 ohms when closed, but 1 or 2 ohms is still okay.

if you have continuity through the switch and everything on the board pin itself, the board is no good and the input for p1 has gone kaput. this can be caused by a bad ground and or static buildup. make sure all metal is properly grounded.