Metal CP thickness

[steve_pss]

Anyone out there happen to know the thickness of a typical metal CP? I have access to some fabrication tools at a family members auto body shop. I'm knee deep in building another cab and I might want to get crazy and go metal.

[Stingray]

If I had a set of calipers I'd measure mine for you, but I don't. It's somewhat heavy, but not as heavy as you would think. A bend at one end and a roll at the other gives it quite a bit of stiffness.

-S

[Ken Layton]

If I remember correctly it's 16 gauge.

[steve_pss]

thanks much!

[Minwah]

I was planning to use 3mm aluminium...I have some 2mm stuff lying around tho so I am going to try that first - not sure if it will be too thin  

[Stingray]

You'd probably be better off sticking with steel. Aluminum might dent or bend with a little rough treatment.

-S

[Apollo]

If you are going to use aluminium I would suggest you use at least 3mm, preferably 4mm.

[steve_pss]

I used silly putty for my 1st control panel. Really weak but man was it ever easy to change overlays.

[NoOne=NBA=]

You guys must have some really bad friends.
Every thread I see has "might get damaged during play" in it somewhere.

The worst thing that has ever happened to my cabinet is a couple scuffs on the kick panel.
I don't even have any fingerprints on my monitor bezel from my sister's kids (13, 12, 8 & 5) because they know they won't get to play with it anymore if they do.

[Stingray]

Hmm. Don't know if I want to admit this, but I was thinking of myself, not my friends. I know I occasionally get a little too into the game and slam a fist down on the CP. I realize that this is the point where you should probably take a break and do something else, but try to explain that to me at two AM on level 25 of Lode Runner.  

-S

[rockhopper]

3 or 4mm thick Aluminium? you're CP must be huge to need that stiffness, my cocktail cab used 1 mm stuff, and it is as solid as a rock! although they are only ~ 280 mm x 110 mm in size.  I've got a piece of 2mm stuff near my desk here at work, and if it was all bent to shape even a large panel would be very stiff.
 

[Minwah]

3 or 4mm thick Aluminium? you're CP must be huge to need that stiffness, my cocktail cab used 1 mm stuff, and it is as solid as a rock! although they are only ~ 280 mm x 110 mm in size.  I've got a piece of 2mm stuff near my desk here at work, and if it was all bent to shape even a large panel would be very stiff.
 

It is stronger than you'd think - I believe Telengard made some aluminium modular panels out of something imperial that I worked out to be ~3mm and said the same.

I guess my worry is for a panel with a lot of controls (or heavy stuff like arcade analog stick/steering wheel) it might be inclined to bend in the middle a touch at 2mm.  I guess I could always use steel/wood cross struts on that panel if neccessary.  My panels will be 600x270mm btw.

I'm not too worried about violent friends - I'll kick em in the head if they get roudy!  I learned a long time ago to 'just walk away' when getting annoyed by games...I never had an arcade machine before tho  

[SirPeale]

I wouldn't worry too much about bending.  I'd worry about the aluminum breaking when you bend it.

[Minwah]

I wouldn't worry too much about bending.  I'd worry about the aluminum breaking when you bend it.

Do you mean when I purposely bend it making it?  I wasn't planning to!  (Not true, I was planning to, then I changed my mind)...

edit: Does that make sense, not sure .  What I mean is I don't plan to put a bend in it.  I have decided to form a curved wooden front edge instead - so I don't have to bend the 3-5 panels I want to make

[rockhopper]

I'd worry about the aluminum breaking when you bend it

Really? aluminium, like most sheet metals, bends very easily with no real danger of cracking unless you kept bending it back and forth until it lost its ductility.

That's why i went with Aluminium in the first place over steel, because its so much easier to work with. NOTE: if you tried to bend 3 or 4mm alumnium without a sheet metal brake, you must be crazy!

[Minwah]

Really? aluminium, like most sheet metals, bends very easily with no real danger of cracking unless you kept bending it back and forth until it lost its ductility.

That's why i went with Aluminium in the first place over steel, because its so much easier to work with. NOTE: if you tried to bend 3 or 4mm alumnium without a sheet metal brake, you must be crazy!

I've bent some 2mm before, and seen cracking (quite a sharp bend tho).

I've no idea what a sheet metal brake is, but I don't have one  

[Stingray]

It's a big device that's used for bending sheet metal. I don't have one either, but my dad owns an auto body shop and he does have one. Very handy when doing sheet metal work.

-S

[Ken Layton]

I've repaired (and converted) a great many commercial arcade video games and NEVER saw an aluminum control panel. It was either steel or wood panels.

[rockhopper]

NEVER saw an aluminum control panel

I understand, I wasn't trying to copy any other machine, I just decided to build my own and so I choose aluminium. And I have to say I am extremely happy with the result. And besides how many commercial arcade games have you seen with rotating control panels? I think that it is a good idea to stray away from the conventional especially if you have an idea to improve the look or feel of your own arcade machine.

Not trying to argue, just stating my opinion

Cheers
RH

[Minwah]

I understand, I wasn't trying to copy any other machine, I just decided to build my own and so I choose aluminium.

Same here, I decided 'metal' is authentic, and would be easier to attach most controls to.  I then realised it would probably be pretty tough punching holes in sheet steel...

Plus I had some aluminium in the cupboard

[mp2526]

I've no idea what a sheet metal brake is, but I don't have one  

Here is a really cheap sheet metal brake, I use it when I'm making quick bends at my bench and don't want to use my box brake.  Even if you just do a little bending it comes in very handy.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39103

[Tailgunner]

The metal panels on my cabs are .09" steel, which is 12 gauge. To accurately bend steel that thick you really need a press brake. You might get away with a regular sheet metal brake if the piece is narrow, but with a two to three foot wide piece you'll likely damage the brake.

About the aluminum cracking when you bend it, it depends alot on the preticular alloy and it's temper. For instance 6061 is a fairly common aluminum alloy, and you can get it in six levels of hardness. 6061-T1 you can fold with your hands, 6061-T3 bends nice and clean in a brake, 6061-T6 will definately crack and will likely shear right off if you try to bend it.

[Stingray]

Here is a really cheap sheet metal brake, I use it when I'm making quick bends and my bench and don't want to use my box brake.  Even if you just do a little bending it comes in very handy.

Wow, I've never seen a little one like that. The one I have access to use is enormous. Probably eight feet long, three feet wide and it's made of cast iron. Probably wieghs well over a ton! I think yours would be a little more practical for home use.  

-S

[tmasman]

I've no idea what a sheet metal brake is, but I don't have one  

Here is a really cheap sheet metal brake, I use it when I'm making quick bends and my bench and don't want to use my box brake.  Even if you just do a little bending it comes in very handy.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39103

The problem with that one is it's only 18" wide... Most control panels are closer to 24" (or more)...  They have a 30" brake, but it's $50 (compared to the $16 for the 18" brake)

I almost got excited for a minute 'til I realized the size... I could do $16, but not $50... (not right now anyhow...)

[Minwah]

Here is a really cheap sheet metal brake, I use it when I'm making quick bends at my bench and don't want to use my box brake.  Even if you just do a little bending it comes in very handy.

http://www.harborfreight.com/cpi/ctaf/Displayitem.taf?itemnumber=39103

Cool, I haven't seen one of those before

As for mp2526, my panels are 60cm wide, too big for that (pretty cheap) brake...

[mp2526]

As for mp2526, my panels are 60cm wide, too big for that (pretty cheap) brake...

Right, I forgot we were talking about control panels.  I have a 40 inch box brake I use for the longer stuff, but that cost considerably more.  As pointed out the 30 inch is still relatively cheap, but maybe out of the range of a seldomly used hobbiest's tool box.  There is a Gingery book that shows how to make an 18 inch from scrap, that could be scaled up to a longer version, but unless you already have some of the materials it would probably cost you around the same if not more than the 30 inch harbor freight one.  Here's the link for anyone who is interested.  The whole series is pretty interesting for anyone who wants to make a relatively cheap homemade metal working shop.

http://www.lindsaybks.com/dgjp/djgbk/series/index.html

[mp2526]

Actually, I was just thinking, you might be able to find some cold rolled steel bars on ebay for fairly cheep that you could then turn the harbor freight cheapo 18 inch into a 25-30 inch break for less than what Harbor Freight is charging for the 30 inch.

[Stingray]

Looks like we've gone from build your own arcade controls to build your own metalworking tools.  

-S

[Violineb]

I might also consider doing my CP with a metal top. My question is. What do you make the whole thing out of, and why exactly do you need to bend it?  Can't you just use a flat piece of metal that somehow sits ontop of wherever it needs to go on the cabinet? Or do you build a fram for the CP out of metal too :p Or no frame? I don't know eactly how you'd shape the CP. With wood you just use a seperate piece for each side if it's a stand alone panel and one piece for the top if it's for a cabinet. But when using metal for a stand alone CP what would you make the rest of the CP out of? And if it were for a cabinet then how do you attach the CP to the cab? Bolt/screw it into the wood?

[Minwah]

I might also consider doing my CP with a metal top. My question is. What do you make the whole thing out of, and why exactly do you need to bend it?  Can't you just use a flat piece of metal that somehow sits ontop of wherever it needs to go on the cabinet? Or do you build a fram for the CP out of metal too :p Or no frame? I don't know eactly how you'd shape the CP. With wood you just use a seperate piece for each side if it's a stand alone panel and one piece for the top if it's for a cabinet. But when using metal for a stand alone CP what would you make the rest of the CP out of? And if it were for a cabinet then how do you attach the CP to the cab? Bolt/screw it into the wood?

I am planning to use a flat CP with no bends...but many 'real' metal panels have bend(s), especially at the front edge, so there isn't a sharpe edge to cut your wrists on  My design doesn't need the bend as the front of the metal butts up to a piece of wood which is radiused all the way long the front edge...

My CP will sit on wooden supports front/back/left/right, and be held in place with 'flush spring latches' (the catches you get on socket sets, tool cases etc.)  If you don't want swappable panels I suppose you could bolt it in there permanently.  For a standalone controller I would make a wooden box also.

All real metal CP's are made of steel - this is possibly best if you have the ability/tools to work with it.  I'm using Aluminium for reasons I think I mentioned above

[Stingray]

why exactly do you need to bend it?

Aside from taking away sharp edges like minwah says, adding bends also give the panel extra stiffness. A flat panel with no bends in it would have too much flex, unless you are adding reinforcement under it.

-S

[spidermonkey]

I'm making a metal cp for my current cabinet because most controls were made to work with metal cps. I put a Frontline controller into my first cab which has a wood control panel and I had to do all kinds of routing just to get it to sit up high enough on top. I had to route out so much there wasn't much wood left to attatch it to. Luckily it hasen't blown out yet. I regret not using a metal cp but I'm not making the same mistake twice. I used 1/8" thick mild steel for my current cab's control panel.

Steve, I hope to see that Frontline controller in your next cabinet.

[Minwah]

Aside from taking away sharp edges like minwah says, adding bends also give the panel extra stiffness. A flat panel with no bends in it would have too much flex, unless you are adding reinforcement under it.

Yes, I forgot to mention that...

I am going to *try* mine without reinforcement first of all...I'm hoping that as my panel is fairly small it will not flex.  If it does, I will try to add some struts to the underside from front to back - hopefully that will work