Gluing options

[MartyKong]

I just finished gluing wood battens and was surprised how fast the glue can set up. After 2 minutes I had to tap with a hammer if adjustment was needed. I'm using Titebond II. When thinking of the time required for cabinet gluing, squaring sides, screwing, clamping and cleaning up extra glue - what type of glue are you using? Any tips for the newbies? Thanks

[Slippyblade]

If you were "adjusting" with a hammer after 2 minutes, you've broken the bond.  I'd snap it back off and re-glue.

I use plain old yellow wood glue.  Cheap stuff from Home Depot.  It's water soluble so I can clean up with a wet rag.  I also use an 18 gauge brad nailer to tack pieces together while gluing.  Pretty much removes the need to clamp.

[MartyKong]

Thanks Slippyblade, I agree with nailer. When I tighten the c clamps the twisting motion made it hard to keep them lined up. It's been a while since I had high school woodshop but I remember taking my time while gluing everything up. I am a bit worried that the glue will set up before everything is clamped, squared etc. Took my time cutting everything and don't want the glue to set up before everything is done. Anyone else using Titebond type glues? Any issues with this?

[EvilNuff]

I use Titebond 2 in almost all of my woodworking projects and love the stuff.  If you need a longer working time there is also titebond extend.  However, I have not yet had a problem with time.  For my projects I do the following:

First, always do a dry fit and clamping plan.  This makes sure that everything fits.  It ensures that I have enough clamps already open to a good distance.  It ensures I have cauls as needed, etc.

Second, I plan the order that I glue up.  I will glue and assemble any sub-assemblies first whenever possible and then the final glue up is less steps.

Finally, I pretty much never just glue without some form of joinery.  Most of the time I am doing furniture and the like so I never glue wood on wood plain, instead I use mortise and tenon, mortise and loose tenon, rabbits, dados, etc.  A biscuit cutter would be a good option as well.  If you are gluing just battens onto flat wood I would consider tacking them on with an air nailer just to hold them while tightening the clamps.

(Yes my process is overkill for a cabinet, but as I said I do woodworking as a hobby so overkill works for me.)

[MartyKong]

Evilnuff,  WOW  I can't thank you enough for the sound assembly tips! The dry assembly advice was spot on. I glued the base to side 1 first. ( I will glue and assemble any sub-assemblies first) . Then glued and squared the back. After these had dried, I glued and screwed top, shelves, etc. to the cab. Lastly, after dry fitting the final side, I clamped the rest of the cabinet. Much better to do it in sections. Don't forget to keep a rag wet to clean up glue. Lastly, I had to google your cauls recommendation. Didn't know what they were! Many are for table top clamping but I think these are what you were referring to Like having a second pair of hands! Thanks Evilnuff. 

[EvilNuff]

Glad to help...by cauls what I actually meant was blocks of wood (usually scrap wood) used to protect the work piece from the clamps.  Also they can distribute the clamping pressure over a greater distance rather than just at the heads of the clamps.

[eds1275]

I'm a little late to the party but I also use a nail gun and fire my nails in on opposing angles for added stability.

[EvilNuff]

Pin nails used like this function almost like mini-dowels and they can add a lot of strength.  With modern glues, however, there is no need for anything but glue.  The pins make it faster to set up is about all.  I dislike filling in the holes from them so personally I never use them.  Norm from the New Yankee Workshop used them extensively!