Simplest Option for LED Buttons?

[DrakeTungsten]

I'm remaking my control panel and really want to go with lit-up buttons this time, but I am greatly confused by the wiring. The Electric Ice 2 buttons sound nice, but I'm afraid I'd invest the money and not get it working. I also like the idea of the buttons only being lit which are being used by the particular game you launch.  Are the EI2 buttons any more difficult to install than other options? If not, what is it I need to order to get 14 EI2 buttons working in my CP (aside from the buttons and switches, of course)? I don't understand the capabilities and limitations of the two different LEDWiz products I see on GGG.

[Slippyblade]

No, the EI2 buttons are no more difficult than any other option.

Obviously you need the buttons and LED's.  If you are wanting something programmable like you are talking about you will need a controller.  Something like an LED-Wiz, or use an Ultimark Ultimate or a Howler.  You will also most likely want to purchase a copy of LED-Blinky to run the controller.

BTW, the two versions of the LED-Wiz are that one is a 32 port controller for outputs only, the other one is 16 outputs and is also a gamepad encoder for your controls (Buttons,joystick, etc).

[DrakeTungsten]

I already have a KeyWiz, so can I use that for the normal "button-push" operation of the buttons, and then buy the LEDWiz which is LED-control-only, for the light functionality, so each button will be going to two different controllers?

How many IE2 buttons does the 32-port controller support? I would have guessed three ports per button for RGB, but obviously 32/3 has a remainder.

Also, would it require any additional power if I max out the connections?

[keilmillerjr]

Simplest Option for LED Buttons

buttons only being lit which are being used by the particular game you launch.

These two statements do not really go together.

[DrakeTungsten]

I thought that the functionality to turn buttons on and off (and change color) was strictly software related, as long as your controller supports it. I'm not worried about the software side, I don't doubt I can figure out complex software. It's wiring to the controller and providing power that I'm confused over. So if I buy EI2 buttons and the LEDWiz controller, would I be wiring it differently to enable turning buttons on and off?   

[keilmillerjr]

I thought that the functionality to turn buttons on and off (and change color) was strictly software related, as long as your controller supports it. I'm not worried about the software side, I don't doubt I can figure out complex software. It's wiring to the controller and providing power that I'm confused over. So if I buy EI2 buttons and the LEDWiz controller, would I be wiring it differently to enable turning buttons on and off?

Buy my howler controller. All controls and leds connect to it. Unused except to update the firmware. Bought a neo geo mvs and probably won't use it.

[05SRT4]

It is mostly software.

You will wire the buttons (usually 3/4 ports for each RGB) I used LEDBlinky and Ulitimarc's I/O Ulti and with in the LEDBlinky application I set ports 1,2,3 to button 1. Then do this for the rest of the buttons. (4,5,6 would be button two)

Within the software there are options to light the buttons only when used.

After looking at the LEDWIZ V2 install PDF its just about the same. Ports 1,2,3 will be button one. Remember you will also need to wire the actual button switch to another controller for the actual functionality.

Since you are upgrading you should be able to keep your original encoder. So dont worry about getting a all in one as its not needed.

[DrakeTungsten]

Thank you.

So 3 ports * 14 buttons = 42 ports required for my 14-button CP. So I'll need 2 of the 32-port controllers (why isn't it a multiple of 3?) using 21 ports per controller. Would the power they draw from the USB connection be sufficient?

[05SRT4]

That depends on what LED you go with. The Ice 2 buttons have 2 LED options.

From the GG website
It looks like its either RGB-Drive II Or Helio

RGB Drive II = 5v DC and consume 20ma per color for a total of 60ma when all 3 colors are at full intensity.

Helio = 5v DC and consume up to 55ma per color for a total of 165ma when all 3 colors are at full intensity.

I am not sure how to calculate the mA needed for all this but it does look like you will need two from GGG I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong.

Is USB the only option you have to power the LED's or do you have a power supply you can tap into?

[Slippyblade]

...why isn't it a multiple of 3?...

Cause 32 is a  power of 2, which is how things in the binary world work, and computers are all about the binary.

[DrakeTungsten]

That depends on what LED you go with. The Ice 2 buttons have 2 LED options.

From the GG website
It looks like its either RGB-Drive II Or Helio

RGB Drive II = 5v DC and consume 20ma per color for a total of 60ma when all 3 colors are at full intensity.

Helio = 5v DC and consume up to 55ma per color for a total of 165ma when all 3 colors are at full intensity.

I am not sure how to calculate the mA needed for all this but it does look like you will need two from GGG I am sure someone will correct me if I am wrong.

Is USB the only option you have to power the LED's or do you have a power supply you can tap into?

Sorry, I should have mentioned that I was thinking of going with the RGB Drive II.

I *could* "tap" into a different power supply, but that's the kind of thing I was hoping to avoid. I wouldn't know how to do it, and searching the forums hasn't helped me. Even posts saying "I'm a noob, how do you get extra power to the LEDs?" end up losing me. If I had to, I'd prefer a separate, dedicated power supply (if such a thing exists) instead of hacking wires on my PC's power supply.

[05SRT4]

An easier solution could be using a different device.

The Ultimarc PACLED64 would be a good option. Would allow enough ports for your setup and it comes with a power adapter that plugs straight into the power supply (assuming the power supply has a molex connector) So you wouldn't have to worry about cutting wires.

[DrakeTungsten]

I like that PACLED64, but as of last year, there was an extra expense per IE2 button to get one compatible with it out of the box.

I found this in the manual for the LEDWiz:
"If only the USB port power is to be used to power external devices, be aware that it can supply only 5vDC power with a total current delivery of about 500ma"

So for the LEDWiz, do I just have to add up the RGB intensities for each button on the controller, and if it's less than 500ma, then USB-only power will be sufficient? If so, I'll be good, because my colors add up to about 220ma.

[Fursphere]

I just finished lighting up my control panel. 

LEDBlinky is good stuff, but the documentation / instructions could use some work. 

I used these lights:  http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/button-leds/100-il-lumination-rgb-5vdc-led.html

These buttons:  http://www.paradisearcadeshop.com/buttons-il-industrias-lorenzo/809-il-psl-l-translucent-with-black-concave-plunger.html

And an Ultimarc PACLED64 controller.

Crimping all the pins on the wires, then putting them in the small housing was a pain and took a long time.  I broke one button drilling holes in them for the wires.  I had to modify my button wrench to make room for the LED harness.  (cut a big hole in the side). 

Then I spent a bunch more time doing the initial LEDBlinky config.  And them some more time getting LEDBlinky to play nice with Hyperspin (and RocketLaunch). 

Is it worth it?  Yes.  But you're going to put in a lot of hours getting everything together. (and its not cheap)

[SpatzST]

Hi Drake.  I have the GGG Helio LED buttons.  I have 20 buttons lit (60 LEDs) so I needed two LED controllers, the LED Wiz specifically.  Each button will have 3 outputs as you said, a RG&B.  With the correct software, you CAN have mame light up buttons with the correct colors depending on the game selected (or not lit).  As others mentioned, for the Helio buttons they each use 55ma at max power (times 20 buttons times 3 led's each = 3300mA or 3.3 Amps)  and this required me to have an external power supply (basically just a wall plug that gets spliced into the hardware, I got one that was rated for 4 Amps).  I will admit it was a huge pain to set up! Took like 7-8 hours from start to finish.  I also had the help of my brother who knows more about electricity than I do, so that helped. 

Anyhow, it was very worth it, the end result is really cool.  After all, its a labor of love, right?....... right?

I hope this helps.  If you have any questions i'd be happy to help

As you said in your last post, if you are keeping the maximum power consumption per board under the 500mA maximum then you shouldn't need an external power supply.

[RandyT]

When selecting an LED controller, it's important to note the specifications of and distinctions between the controllers.  Things like maximum output capability, screw terminals, and labor required to complete installation can make a significant difference, depending on the devices intending to be used and the skill of the installer.

A good example is our popular Helio9 light units.  They can draw up to 180ma each when fully lit, and are quite vivid.  Using these on the other units mentioned will cut their output by as much as 2/3's, so it's important to use the right part for the job.