Crazy Control Panel Questions!

[MartyKong]

1) I've searched and checked the project announcements - hope you guys can help.
Many cabinets have an administrative panel which is 3" to 4" higher than the control panel. These panels are usually flush mounted with the sides. Do you usually run the T molding down below the control panel / box. The reason why I am asking is with a T molding wrapped CP top against the T molding going past the administrative panel and CP box for the sides - Don't you end up with a gap?

2) I'm planning on using a keyboard drawer. These are usually designed as just a drawer front and a drawer base. I assume this is because the wood battens attached under the CP box would block a regular drawer. There must be a reason why builders aren't attaching their CP boxes directly to the 3/4" sides with inserts or screws rather than wood battens under the CP box. This would allow for a regular drawer with sides for extra storage. What am I missing?  Cheers

[Locke141]

Some link to an example pick would be helpful.

I just use a sift key on my pedestal that turns my P1 buttons to admit stuff. That way you won't need to add the extra complications.

It sounds like your going big for your first build. I would recommend thinking about what you really want to play and ask what you need to do just that just that as simply as possible.   

[mgb]

Just out of curiosity, why the keyboard drawer?
   It just seems to me to be more work for something that only takes away from the arcadeyness

[SavannahLion]

1) I've searched and checked the project announcements - hope you guys can help.
Many cabinets have an administrative panel which is 3" to 4" higher than the control panel. These panels are usually flush mounted with the sides. Do you usually run the T molding down below the control panel / box. The reason why I am asking is with a T molding wrapped CP top against the T molding going past the administrative panel and CP box for the sides - Don't you end up with a gap?

I'm not really sure I understand this question, Like Locke said, do you have an example pic of what you're asking about?

2) I'm planning on using a keyboard drawer. These are usually designed as just a drawer front and a drawer base. I assume this is because the wood battens attached under the CP box would block a regular drawer. There must be a reason why builders aren't attaching their CP boxes directly to the 3/4" sides with inserts or screws rather than wood battens under the CP box. This would allow for a regular drawer with sides for extra storage. What am I missing?  Cheers

Generally speaking, it's difficult to put screws edge on into MDF or Ply without destroying the edge. So the strips are generally used to take advantage of multiple points of bond to take advantage of the strengths of MDF or Ply. There are a few cabs that don't use them or minimize their use but the designs or the choice of wood is the factor here.

The drawers tend to lack sides because the the drawer turns into a shelf when it opens. The front should move out of the way to allow the drawer to come out and turn into a shelf for the keyboard. Personally, I completely eschew keyboard drawers in every cab I own. I see no reason to spend time and money designing for a keyboard that will only ever be used during configuration and will be left inside, largely untouched, for the entire life of the cab. It's too much investment for very little return.

If you've got a real boner for a keyboard. A better design might be a lift up CP with a small shelf for a keyboard inside or a small dinner tray style skirt that you can fold up for the keyboard. The first option is something you're going to do anyways to access the wiring for the CP controls, the later option would see more use such as a shelf to hold beer or chips and dip during parties.

Or you can do what I do. Just have one (or two) spare keyboards and if I need it for configuration, plug it in.

[MartyKong]

The build I'm going for is Kneivel's Evolution although a bit smaller. Most uprights have t molding that runs down the front side past the CP top.  If the control panel top is wrapped with T molding, the two T molding would meet. I assumed both T moldings meeting together would result in a small gap (top front of CP and administrative panel/ Man you're right! I gotta figure out how to link a picture. Explaining this is way too hard Kneivel added a keyboard drawer that I thought I might be able to modify to make it more versatile.   Thanks SavannahLion just got you're post while typing this. So I gather screwing a CP box directly into 3/4" Birch plywood (thought about adding inserts) might not be my strongest option. Again Kneivel did a neat job with his drawer, but maybe it isn't really needed. I guess it may come in handy for initial setup or adding stuff. Do any of you guys use the keyboard for anything other than setup?

[yotsuya]

I use a wireless keyboard with my MAME cab that I store inside it, but honestly, I haven't had to pull it out in probably three years. I've also mounted small USB hubs by the coin door on other ones, so all I have to do is open the coin door and plug them in. It's rare that I have to do so, however.

And I hope there is a UCA for "Best Way To Start a Suggestion", because this would win it:

If you've got a real boner for a keyboard....

[PL1]

I gotta figure out how to link a picture.

1. Right click on desired picture -- copy image location

3. Click on the icon to insert IMG tags where the blinking cursor is

Code: [Select]

[img][/img]
4. Ctrl-V (paste) the image url between the tags

Code: [Select]

[img]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/Themes/Yabb_SE_Classic_2/images/bbc/img.gif[/img]
5. (optional) Add "width=__" to resize the image. (click on image to see full-size vs. 200 pixels wide)

Code: [Select]

[img width=200]http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?action=dlattach;topic=121700.0;attach=249765;image[/img]




Scott

[SavannahLion]

The build I'm going for is Kneivel's Evolution although a bit smaller. Most uprights have t molding that runs down the front side past the CP top.  If the control panel top is wrapped with T molding, the two T molding would meet. I assumed both T moldings meeting together would result in a small gap (top front of CP and administrative panel/ Man you're right! I gotta figure out how to link a picture.

Looking at the Kneivel's site, I think I see what you're talking about. The CP edge is trimmed with T-Molding and it sits a bit high resulting in a V shaped gap between the CP back and the bottom of the Bezel. I cant quite recall how Knievel mounted his CP but I expect it's hinged on the front and flips up like the hood on a DeLorean. This might be a design constraint really. You either have an over wide CP necessitating something akin to Knievel's cab 'V' shaped gap or you have an undersized CP aka Pac-Man. Both have their limitations and advantages. If it bothers you that much, I suppose you could "straighten" the slant of the bezel just before it meets the CP to minimize the gap. I dunno how that would look though. I think Knievel's cab allows a little play in this area and that gap might help to hide imperfections due to less experienced builders making bad cuts.

That's my take on it.  Someone else might have a better suggestion.

Explaining this is way too hard Kneivel added a keyboard drawer that I thought I might be able to modify to make it more versatile.   Thanks SavannahLion just got you're post while typing this. So I gather screwing a CP box directly into 3/4" Birch plywood (thought about adding inserts) might not be my strongest option. Again Kneivel did a neat job with his drawer, but maybe it isn't really needed. I guess it may come in handy for initial setup or adding stuff. Do any of you guys use the keyboard for anything other than setup?

Looking at Knievel's cab, I realized his drawer is effectively "upside down". The lip on the front panel is very short on top but long on bottom. This lip is probably enough to ensure that a keyboard would clear any edging as you close it and, if you're standing while using it, probably isn't too annoying.

I use wired keyboards in all of my cabs if they're needed at all. A wireless keyboard gives the possibility that the batteries inside could pop and leak and that's one more point of failure I don't want to contend with. I usually just install a hub behind the coin door or just inside the back door. If you're using the keyboard to configure the PC, you're likely working on the PC itself as well so it's not overly inconvenient.

[MartyKong]

Yes SanannahLion, That's the CP gap I was referring to Even thought of straightening out the bevel slant as well but assume that wouldn't work for the T molding. After looking at the pictures I think you're right - it's probably hinged. I'm sure the small gap is normal. Also even though I might add the drawer anyway for storage Yotsuya idea to add an external usb port for keyboards, etc. is a definite winner   Thanks again for all the posts. I'm on page 283 of Saint's Project Arcade, I should be an expert by page 511 right? If not I'll be back.