Hey Guys. Im new here. I was posting a lot over at KLOV but I think my builds belong more over here. I love retro arcade gaming....well, actually I think I love the process of building retro arcades more than I actually love the games themselves. Haha. Ive owned two original games in the past two years...a Ms Pacman cocktail table and an original red DK....but I ended up selling those. Ive found as I progressed in this hobby that I actually like the challenge and process of making the games myself than just buying them...they mean more to me that way. I guess a lot of us are like that here.
Anyway, so I spent about 18 months obsessed with the idea of building my own Donkey Kong, Fix It Felix and DK:Pauline. Last summer, I completed two of the three....a FIFJ and DK:Pauline. I had a red DK at the time that was orginal...but I sold it...I plan to build another as the summer progresses with a few custom twists. You can see those builds here.....
http://forums.arcade-museum.com/showthread.php?t=321508So DK:Pauline and FIFJ were my first builds...and the first time Id done real wood working and learning the arcade/electronics of the hobby. It was a lot of fun. Not soon after I finished them last August, I got the idea to build another custom Nintendo cab....The Legend of Zelda.
I started racking my brain on how I was going to do this....as far as the electronics aspect of it. An original NES inside with a hacked controller? A Playchoice PCB with a NES adapter card on it? MAME? I went back and forth for months. Well, at the end of the day I want the machine to coin up like a real arcade, so I decided MAME would be the best solution. I also dont want to spend a million dollars on the internals as far as electronics....so I chose not to the Playchoice PCB route.
Over the past six months, I have accumulated most of the parts I need for this build. I will have to design the graphics myself which shouldnt be to difficult. My last builds were 5/8 plywood from Home Depot....which sucked because of the amount of prep work involved. I wanted to use 5/8 on this build too....and I went back and forth on what would to use....but since I want to use gold chrome t molding...and that is only available in 3/4 I opted to use 3/4 plywood. I thought about trimming the t molding to make it smaller....but the core of the gold chrome t molding is raw plastic...not chrome...so I just chose to go with the wider wood for a cleaner, smoother look. In the end, Im glad I did. The pine 3/4 plywood I picked up from Home Depot is so awesome to work with!!! Its so smooth, cuts great with minimal chipping, and awesome to sand.
Okay, so here we go with the build as far as where I am at today. I started about 2 months ago working on the weekend, now that the weather is getting better in Colorado Im gaining momentum on the build. Im almost to the point were Im ready to design the artwork.
Over the winter I cut the speaker panel. Instead of making in round like the original Nintendo panels, I decided to have some fun with it and cut it into a triangle like the Tri Force. Once I got it cut out and was happy with it, I thought about how NES Zelda game was so different and awesome from the rest of the NES carts at the time because it was gold. I thought that I would paint this cab gold as well....but then I had the idea to wrap the cab in gold chrome vinyl. Ive never done a wrap before, so I figured it would be a good challenge. I picked up some gold chrome vinyl on ebay.
After priming the speaker panel, blocking 150, priming, blocking 320, priming, sanding 320 again, and finally 400 to remove the sand scratches, I applied the gold chrome to the speaker panel...and here is the result.
The clear protective film is still over the gold chrome...so there looks to be scratches in the chrome...but those will go away once the protective layer is removed. The reason I wrapped the speaker panel before I built the cabinet is because I figured it would be easier to cut the speaker slots off the cab on a workbench. It was a tedious task...so Im glad I did it that way. I will install the speaker panel once the cabinet is painted and wrapped as the finishing touch.