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Author Topic: Golden Tee 2001 -2006 CHD's and the U53's, Big Buck Hunter, Carnival King  (Read 8990 times)

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Loopey1

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I know I can not ask for roms. Fine, I will make a simple plea to the Devs to include the files in a upcoming release. I don't Care about the "Driver" to make these "work" in MAME. Leave that out. and Just say these don't work, if there still worried about legal issues.

But I have Hardware that requires among one thing is a new U53 burnt. I know these were decapped long ago, and the CHD's dumped. IT has moved on to the Nighthawk PC so this is NOT current, heck its 14 years old.
It is right around the time that the Hard drives are failing. and you can not buy upgrades any longer from IT.
GT is not the only files needed. How about Big Buck Hunter from (2000 or 2001)
Or Carnival King....     There all 14 to 15 years old, but none are here (for Preservation)

Funny part is you can but the "replacement" (cloned) drives on Ebay.

Basically I would like to fix my boards. I have exhausted almost every other option But asking here.

I realize its ---smurfy--- of me to post this here, and I am sorry. 
And before you blow me up, Yes I have in the past donated to the MAME devs, and I will again.
I also know that a donation is not a bribe to place a rom, CHD, or file in mame. 
I know someone will toss that flame out there so I will Squash that.

I know I am not alone in the need for these files.
I hope the Devs can be convinced that this is a needed request.


 
« Last Edit: March 25, 2015, 12:24:37 am by Loopey1 »

Malenko

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    • forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,142404.msg1475162.html
asking for roms/CHDs to repair your games IS allowed here. What U53 do you need burnt? Have you reached out to Steph at hobbyroms.com ?


MAME Devs don't include any ROMs/CHDs in MAME releases.
there does not equal they're
No matter one's station in life, the Dance of Death unites us all.

Loopey1

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there does not equal they're
Sorry my Spell check must not be working.  :-[

But that is not the point, Some one has to "release" these files and I was always told that the mame devs controlled when "games" were released, as not to upset the owners of the games.
I have read the Guru's dumping website, and it appears these were dumped quite a while ago.   I am using this site as my basis:

http://members.iinet.net.au/~lantra9jp1/gurudumps/decap/index.html

I have 3 boards here at least, that I need A BBH chd (the original) , a U53 for a GT2006 I believe Fore,  and a CHD for a GT2005 Fore.

I have searched several "rom" sites and found mislabeled CHD's to Just plain wrong U53's   Or the best is the GT2004 rom that is actually All of the Boot files from 1.2?? all the way to 2.09 and some other chips on a red board. but No U53. LOL

I am waiting to hear back from Steph, but Honestly I am not holding my breath, these files seem to be made from unobtainium.

http://uncyclopedia.wikia.com/wiki/Unobtainium


Malenko

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if you have the drives (or access to them) you can dump it on your own using CHDMAN , then clone it yourself using the same program.

Worst case, buy the clone drive on eBay then archive a copy.
No matter one's station in life, the Dance of Death unites us all.

Loopey1

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Well, I was in contact with Steph, at hobbyroms. It is as I feared, he also uses the mame files to burn and copy roms ect..  and as there not included he does not have them.

I was also mistaken, I have the 2006 Hard drive, it's the Security U53 I am missing.

So buying a replacement would actually require buying another board. Kind of silly as I have 3 here already.

ed12

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  • it is what it is..."Nobody Said It Was Easy"....
u will never find a u53 in public
best u can do is build a hv-programmer
and use fbr16
once u build it send in the 2 files in the .zip
the chip will then be un-locked allowing u to dump it
gt-44-usa-u is the build u want
let me know if u want more, btw chd's the green and or red board will never under-stand

ed
« Last Edit: March 26, 2015, 09:25:18 pm by ed12 »
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ed12

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  • it is what it is..."Nobody Said It Was Easy"....
the use of the next file
is done through dos
if u cannot get to true dos
no fear's
grab your self a usb stick.
I will post the formatter u need
in a .zip
then u will want a few other files to un-lock/un-fuse bit the chip
the flash and eep I already up-loaded
to make it easy it took out un-lock-hex and renamed flash.hex
dos like's 8..go fiq
and eep.hex
same thing

now onto the u53 chip
this is unquie to  each build/game/,MOST IMPORTANT SERIAL #

so u53 golden tee will not work for u53 silver-strike or buck-hunter
and so on

be ever so mind full of the jamma interface >it tell's u the green board gen#<

now this file will make a usb stick bootable
in short format stick with it >2meg or less<
once done u reboot with disk in, if all is right it will boot to freedos

I will up-load fbr16 and it's pin-out for 2313

ed

ed
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ed12

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  • it is what it is..."Nobody Said It Was Easy"....
ok I already renamed it for easy use >fb is the dos cmd from dos prompt<
so in dos type fb enter
the file contains 2 .cfg's u only need the active 1  fb.cfg

open the file read the screen
type l
it will show u the schematic
follow it

ed
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ed12

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  • it is what it is..."Nobody Said It Was Easy"....
the file's .hex both of them are used to reset the fuse byte's and un-lock the chip
flash.hex is first sent in
then eep.hex
this will un-lock the chip
WITHOUT DAMAGE TO DATA
before u buy/beg a chip
I can post u44-can-u
that is old Canada crap
but the byte change is easy
let me bug it out first.

I WILL NOT GO INTO CURRENT CODE

ed
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Loopey1

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Thank You very much for the hand holding, it is appreciated.

I will Download the files and get things set up.

But please remember, as I stated in my first post, I have no Chips to extract the code from yet. I am hoping to borrow a friends board that has the proper data.
But I think his is a G44-US-U His is a GT fore 2004.


ed12

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  • it is what it is..."Nobody Said It Was Easy"....
this file will make your usb stick bootable
with free dos

usage
open jzip >extract<
rufus.exe
click  on rufus
u will get a drop down
follow the prompts
once done, leave usb stick in and reboot your box
it will boot auto to free dos and or give u the opition
u will then load the other files to the same usb stick

ed

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Loopey1

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Just a quick question or two.
What should the Device ID be for the Atmel chip? (when I select get ID)

And second. Do I load Both Hex files at the same time?

IE load Flash.hex into buffer, and then load EEP.hex into eeprom buffer? All in the same operation? Or load Flash hex, program, then load eep.hex and program again?

It has literally been years sense I have used this DOS program my last 2313, and my rusty is showing.

Loopey1

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Alrighty, I made a simple AVR programmer. DB25 powered using the schematic listed in the FB.exe program. 

Like this one. http://www.nekhbet.ro/wp-content/progavr1_d.jpg

I was able to find a old g42-us-u chip. IIRC this is a GT2002??? 
anyways, I connected that to the simple programmer booted to FreeDOS loaded the fb program, loaded the hex files and clicked program.
It went through all of the paces but in the end it said something about a low byte error at 0000
for both flash and eeprom.

I then attempted to read. nothing, still locked. I verified this in my VP-288 (says security bits set)


ed12

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  • it is what it is..."Nobody Said It Was Easy"....
u toggle the fuse byte to high voltage.
worst case I will up-link a all in 1

ed
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Loopey1

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u toggle the fuse byte to high voltage.
worst case I will up-link a all in 1

ed

Do what? Please explain how to do that.
Is there something else I need to build that goes along with that simple programmer?
There is no mention of applying High Voltage to anything in your previous directions....
How high of voltage? What Pin or Pins?

You have my attention. :)

ed12

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  • it is what it is..."Nobody Said It Was Easy"....
in fb
button m
toggles the rest pin from high current to low
also make sure your printer port is set to bi or/st not ecp nor ecd

ed
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Loopey1

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Got Ya.
I will try.

Loopey1

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Well, I am on my third computer, thinking My port may not have enough power to drive the fuse bits.
I have tried a P4 box
 a P3 box
  and my old AMD quad core.

I could try my old 486 100 DOS programmer box, but that will not boot from a USB so I would have to make a 3.5" disk with the files on it.

and this is what I get every time.
« Last Edit: March 27, 2015, 09:16:02 pm by Loopey1 »

ed12

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  • it is what it is..."Nobody Said It Was Easy"....
try this file
it loads a .hex only
no eep

ed

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Loopey1

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Same error.  ???
I will try another PC again. This was just off my old DOS box so....

Do I need an external 12 Volt power supply on pin 1 of the Atmel?  All of the HV programmers I see have an external power supply to reset the fuse bits.....
But none are the simple one I made so... I wonder if that could be a issue? Not enough power to reset the bits?
« Last Edit: March 27, 2015, 10:36:38 pm by Loopey1 »

ed12

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  • it is what it is..."Nobody Said It Was Easy"....
my bawd
yes reset is tied to 12v through a transistor so it can be switched

also
if u have avr studio 3/4/5 u can run this next code through
and change the fuse setting's
I will un-load setting's in a min or 3

ed
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Loopey1

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I do not have AVR Studio, sorry.

Do you have a Schematic for the 12V line and transistor I need to add?

If things get to much more complex, with this circuit, I may just go buy a HV programmer......
I don't want to fry my Atmels.

ed12

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  • it is what it is..."Nobody Said It Was Easy"....
ya I will get it up-loaded for ya

I am re-building some un-lock code tonight
so my advice is take thew night off, btw u are close

ed
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Loopey1

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I was thinking a circuit like this.

Highlighted in RED

Take the wire off LPT 6 and AVR pin 1 and "splice" this into it.
that way when LPT 6 toggles, it applies 12V to pin 1 of AVR??



ed12

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  • it is what it is..."Nobody Said It Was Easy"....
exactly
u are only using the 12 to un-lock
then u either revert back to normal and or use your
regular programmer
for me I do it through a stk500
u do not erase chip
if and when I do a run I use
either my emp30 and or qcg-4

ed
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Loopey1

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I have seen the STK500 Starter Kits. They sell for 86.00. They have 256 of them in stock at a vender I use.

I will attempt to build that boost circuit after I sleep. LOL

I think I have all of the transistors and tidbits here.
I know I have a supply of 7812's
I should have the PNP and NPN Gen purpose transistors...... Not sure there rated for 12 Volts though....

ed12

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  • it is what it is..."Nobody Said It Was Easy"....
2n3904 gp npn 2n3906 its mate pnp
u are not sinking a lot of current...
under .01 ma

stk500/600 are the go to board's for this type of app
the readme's are long 500+ pg's
but worth every pennie
u will never look back

ed 
« Last Edit: March 28, 2015, 11:33:06 pm by ed12 »
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Loopey1

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I haven't had any time today, Yet to make that circuit. Buddy of mine had his underground power lines blow apart this AM, so we have been digging and splicing power wires to his garage.
I have all the parts, sitting on my bench, Should take ma a hour or so once I get to it. 

ed12

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  • it is what it is..."Nobody Said It Was Easy"....
ok
I have been working avr studio all day

ed
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Loopey1

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Alright. I built the addon power circuit. When power (About 4 volts) is applied to Pin 6 of the LPT port, I get a Nice 12.55 volts at Pin 1 of the AVR socket. (This was done with a battery pack, connected from Ground, and touching pin 6 of the LPT port, and having a meter on Pin 1 of the AVR socket, and ground.)
I have not tested that I am getting power OUT from the Computer on Pin 6 though,,,,,  But I will, I tried just connecting everything and No Joy, Still get that error. And connecting the Atmel to my VP-280 it still says lock bits are set. It will not read the Chip.

I will need to probe a bit deeper on my PC That I have this home built Programmer connected to see if things are triggering like they should.
Not sure How long or "when" the reset should go to 12 Volts. 


OK, I just checked the power.
These are checked at the AVR socket
I get 5.13V between pin 20  and Pin 10   (this is the power for the Chip)
I am getting 12.55 between Pin 10 and Pin 1 (I can change with the (M) on Keyboard) so the "toggle" is working. And it is powering it properly. I am going to assume that it IS working "in program" as when I click Program I see my meter change voltage several times during the cycle but it is quick, so no "good" read.

What am I missing?
« Last Edit: March 29, 2015, 04:04:42 pm by Loopey1 »

ed12

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  • it is what it is..."Nobody Said It Was Easy"....
not much
u need to toggle the rest line
to do it steady voltage u MUST MODIFIY THE .HEX
let me dig out the c++ code, u will need to
fire it into avr studio 6.2 or 5 or 4
and change the -reset timing.
if u are un-sure
I will de-compile for u

ed
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Loopey1

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I do not have AVR studio.....  :'(

And to be honest, Not sure how to do what you said anyways. A programmer I am not. LOL

ed12

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  • it is what it is..."Nobody Said It Was Easy"....
ok I will be in my stk500 most of the night
no biggie to re-compile
will up-load when done

ed
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Loopey1

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Thank You Much.


ed12

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  • it is what it is..."Nobody Said It Was Easy"....
used flash.hex
punch them through ultra edit to see there differnce's
#2 is the flash after the punch in through the programmer
we need to work on the reset,i cannot hold it steady state for it to compile
#3 is just a dump of the chip
it's comming
1,2 are .bin's 3 is .txt just rename it .bin >remove .txt entision replace with .bin<

ed
« Last Edit: March 30, 2015, 10:36:32 pm by ed12 »
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Loopey1

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No files posted.... lol

ed12

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  • it is what it is..."Nobody Said It Was Easy"....
errp's
up now

ed
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Loopey1

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So, you started with #3 Used Flash.hex, and ended up with #2?
Number 2 is empty... So it erased the flash....... Damn.

ed12

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  • it is what it is..."Nobody Said It Was Easy"....
gt44-can-c is u know who :)
hold i will fix the little bug's i found
ultraedit is your buddy
we need to work on the way u hold the reset line
i will up-load mine tommrow
u will see the dif
i do believe i labed them right


ed
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  • it is what it is..."Nobody Said It Was Easy"....
there is a extra 16 bits of data

ed
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