LED speakers:
Yes, I plug like the one I suggested would work, and you should be able to hook up the LED power wires for both speakers to the same plug. Just make sure the combined current required for the LEDs is LESS than the current output of the plug you use.
I did a quick search for LED car speakers and couldn't find any information about current rating, nor the power rating for the LEDs. the sites only appeared to provide the LED voltage and the power rating of the speaker cone itself. I also couldn't find any wiring diagrams or manuals so can't work it out for you.
I would guess that if you can find a 12v wall wart plug with a current output of say 1.5Amps or more that should be plenty (and there are loads around). BUT if you can, please check the speaker box or manual carefully. If it's not stated anywhere then you should contact the speaker manufacturer.
Because the LED speakers are designed to be powered from the 12V car battery which can supply much more current than the LEDs would ever need, the manufacturer may not provide the information anywhere. You only need to know the information because you're using them for a different application and need a different power source.
This one provides 12V with max current of 2Amps.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/DC-12V-2A-AC-Adapter-Power-Supply-Transformer-for-5050-5630-3528-LED-Strip-24W-/291346868315?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item43d5a0685bThe last one I posted was 1Amp and would probably work, but this one gives you more headroom (just in case).
The power strip hack would also work very well for you, but please make sure you are competent to do it. Using the mains plug as I have suggested is easier and safer if you're not sure what you are doing.
Mains switch:
I would like to state that I am NOT a qualified electrician. This information is guidance only.
This switch can be hooked up to 250V mains supply and can handle a max current of 16Amps.
http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/SW18-CIRCULAR-25mm-LATCHING-ON-OFF-MAINS-SWITCH-RED-NON-ILLUMINATED-ROUND-BUTTON-/141350362675Assuming you're based in the USA you should be able to find something similar on a US website. You need to make sure that it is rated for mains electricity. If you're in the USA it should be rated for at least 120V (AC). Having a switch rated higher is fine. You also need to make sure that it can handle the maximum current requirement for the system that you're hooking up.
You need to check the current draw for each of your components. So as an example, this would be your PC power supply, monitor, amplifier, LEDs etc.
So for this switch, the TOTAL current draw for your system should be less than 16Amps. If it is more then you need a higher rated switch. In my opinion, 16Amps is probably fine) BUT PLEASE CHECK!)
IF you were to use this switch (or one similar), then you would connect your mains inlet power to mains inlet contacts using either 6.3mm crimps, or perhaps solder (Using crimps is preferred IMO). You would then connect the cable for your mains strip in your cab to the outlet pins of the switch, so that when the switch is activated it provides power to your power strip. This particular switch latches, so maintains the connection when you have stopped pushing the button. You need to press it once to turn the power on, and a second time to disconnect the power.
Finally, you need to make sure that the whole system is fused. Make sure the fuse is rated at an appropriate level - i.e. LOWER than the mains switch rating, cable rating etc, to ensure that if there is a problem you blow the fuse and so do not melt the switch, mains cable etc. If the fuse is too high then you could cause a fire.
In the UK, common mains fuses are 5Amp or 13Amp. I would choose 13A with a 16Amp switch, unless I was confident that the total current draw of the system is less than 5Amp (in which case I would use a 5Amp fuse).