Removable control panel top. Ideas needed

[fmzip]

I am looking to build a cabinet and would like the ability to have multiple control panel tops and an easy way to swap them.

I came across this video which seems like a good start



But the question I have, without securing the top of the panel somehow, the control panel would light up with some aggressive movement down with a joystick. Rather than using screws through the top of the control panel to secure it down, is there any type of hidden fasteners that can be used?

[Malenko]

magnets or industrial Velcro

[BadMouth]

If it overhangs the sides of the cabinet, you could put some of these on the back:


These would go on the base and the hoop the lock to would go on the cp top.


I have the front of my CP hinged and nothing securing the back.  Never had an issue with it lifting.
Of course I haven't let my friend who would lift the entire side of the x-arcade tankstick while playing play on it.

[fmzip]

What are these, is there a link you can provide me with?

[BadMouth]

They were labeled "arcade hold down latch" where the pic came from.

I searched "latch" on amazon and all these came up:

http://www.amazon.com/Hardware-Cabinet-Spring-Loaded-Toggle/dp/B00A8WJXD0/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1421953148&sr=8-2&keywords=latch&pebp=1421953085849&peasin=B00A8WJXD0

http://www.amazon.com/Vktech-Stainless-Spring-Loaded-Toggle/dp/B00CTHDXRO/ref=pd_sim_hi_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=141RSK053RD0GRRZTTS2

http://www.amazon.com/Toolbox-Straight-Latch-Strike-Plate/dp/B009AQIP3E/ref=sr_1_24?ie=UTF8&qid=1421953100&sr=8-24&keywords=latch

EDIT: upon further investigation, it's called a DRAW LATCH

[lamprey]

The control panel latches are pretty solid:
http://www.twistedquarter.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=219_225&products_id=934

[fmzip]

Thanks for the info.

What's the best way to wire/connect the control panel top to the control panel base for easy swappingl?

[Louis Tully]

.

[lamprey]

Depends on the kind of wiring you mean. I keep everything internal to the control panel. All my control interfaces are USB, so I put a USB hub in the CP. Each CP has the same hub, so just a matter of swapping the power and USB on the hub.

[shponglefan]

For removal CPs, I've used roller catches with success.  To prevent lateral movement, it can be helpful to also install a solid posts on the CP underside which butt up against the side walls of the CP interior.



For wiring, I'd look at stuff made by Molex.  They have tons of connector types in all sorts of pin configurations.

[Generic Eric]

I've wondered about this to.  Those under latches won't work for me unless I pull back from the wall.

That one that splogefan linked should though.  In general, friction works, but if I'm in a rousing match of Street fighter, I have a tendency to pull up.

I had considered using cam locks and unlocking with a key if I ever needed to get to the underside.

[fmzip]

Depends on the kind of wiring you mean. I keep everything internal to the control panel. All my control interfaces are USB, so I put a USB hub in the CP. Each CP has the same hub, so just a matter of swapping the power and USB on the hub.

Could you explain a bit more, maybe post some pictures please?

[Minwah]

I use latches similar to the ones pictured, one on each side of the control panel (on the inside). I have to reach through the coin door to access one, and the front door to reach the other. Not a bit deal as long as you can reach inside far enough...

For connections, if your interfaces are USB and attached to each control panel, then you just need to use USB (have a mini hub on the panel if there are multiple interfaces). I do this for some panels, but for others, I have an IPAC inside the cabinet which I connect to panels via molex connectors. If I did it again I would probably have a cheap USB keyboard/gamepad encoder in each panel and just have one USB connection (per panel) to the cabinet.

Of course if you are powering a load of LEDs etc on your CP then you'll probably need a powered hub on your CP, as lamprey was saying.

[fmzip]

It's been awhile for me in tinkering with the arcade.

I currently have a slikstik controller. I bought parts a few years back to back some control panels.

Is there some other interface other than an Ipac? How does this USB device tie into things that you guys are refering to?I don't plan to use any LED's other than for the coin door.

Should I have an IPac on each control panel top? My plan is a dedicated defender panel, a panel similar to my slikstik and an Astroids, missle command panel.

[Minwah]

Is there some other interface other than an Ipac? How does this USB device tie into things that you guys are refering to?I don't plan to use any LED's other than for the coin door.

There are all sorts of interfaces (keyboard encoders), most of them are USB now. eg:

IPAC
KeyWiz
Kade

Should I have an IPac on each control panel top? My plan is a dedicated defender panel, a panel similar to my slikstik and an Astroids, missle command panel.

Well when I made mine I had a PS/2 IPAC, so hot swapping (PS/2) wasn't an option, so I only had one IPAC in the cabinet and used molex connectors to connect to my various control panels. Also, due to expense I didn't want an IPAC on each control panel.

However USB can be hotswapped, and also some of the interfaces are fairly cheap now. So if you wanted you could have an IPAC/KeyWiz/whatever on each panel. I certainly think that would be the easiest way to do it.

[bfauska]

I think there's a lot of money to be saved if you are concerned about that with using a connector after the encoder rather than an encoder per panel. I've used cut up parallel extension cables for my connections after an encoder in the past and they work splendidly, it's one connection, you don't have to crimp anything, you don't have to purchase multiple encoders, you could have an admin panel (or your coin door) stay connected all the time, and you won't have to worry about any difficulty from device id mix up when swapping panels.
If you cut a parallel extension cable in half then do a continuity test to map the wires to the pins you can wire each wire to your encoder from the female half of the cable and then use the male half wired to your controls. For every panel just get another parallel cable with a male end and wire it up. I've got several PC recycling type places in the area and they've always got pallets of old cables for a buck or two each.