thanks / cabinet so far / help with marquee light

[spurty]

Having previously asked for (and received, thanks!) advice from you all, thought I'd show how I got on over the xmas break. I'm sure you'll think this is substandard, but as a genuine absolute beginner I'm delighted with how it's gone. Sorry for the detritus on the floor in this pic, not representative of my house generally. And the 'paint job' is just mdf primer at this stage.



Hoping to figure out the rest as I go along and finish within a few weeks. One question though, marquee light: need something that runs from  a molex connector. Can I get a strip light from b&q and hook that up somehow, or is there a pc led strip that has a long enough lead to reach all the way to the top of the case? Any help appreciated.

[stripe4]

If you managed to build this just during the Christmas break, I'm really impressed! Looking good!

Unfortunately I cannot give you advice on your lighting question - I used a fluorescent under cabinet light for marquee lighting. It is cheap, and it does a good job. A smart power strip makes the light, the monitor and the amplifier turn on or off when the PC changes its power state. Also, speaking of marquee, take some light source and a marquee sized sheet of paper, and check whether those two upper wooden supports cast a shadow in the top marquee corners. If you plan to have your marquee corners black, most likely this will not be an issue. Otherwise, use a chisel and a hammer to chip those support corners.

Do you plan to install T-molding?

[Jimbo]

looking good, nice shape

[yotsuya]

Hoping to figure out the rest as I go along and finish within a few weeks. One question though, marquee light: need something that runs from  a molex connector. Can I get a strip light from b&q and hook that up somehow, or is there a pc led strip that has a long enough lead to reach all the way to the top of the case? Any help appreciated.

If you want to run something off Molex, get a dual Cold Cathode setup and use that. Worked for me in my first MAME cab. You may need to run some wire to extend the Molex plug from the computer, but if you can build a cab, you can splice some wire. 

[spurty]

Hello thanks for the surprisingly kind comments, they are appreciated. Yes I'm quite surprised how well it's gone so far in the circs...would have got much further but the box for the control panel took me 3 days (trying to cut the exact angle and millimetre precise size with a circular saw led to a headscratching / trial / error / frustration combo).

btw i ended up taking a chance on a worx mini circular saw rather than a proper full size one - good call. Cut 18mm mdf very easily and always felt 100% in control - so still have all fingers and thumbs intact as I type this. Thank chr*st you guys dissuaded me from trying to do all the cutting with a jigsaw - I'd still be trying to do the first side panel now.

Thanks for the tip yotsuya was just about to order a dual cold cathode pack but many amazon reviews said the bulbs don't last very long (hours in some cases). Decided to go for a warm white led strip and 5 ft molex entension cable, hopefully that will do a decent job at least for now and save the wiring. LEDs seem to go forever so regular bulb changing will not be required.

Yes I am planning to fit t-molding but that is the very last thing on the list. I know you're all thinking - HE SHOULD HAVE ROUTED FOR THOSE STRAIGHT AFTER CUTTING THE SIDE PANELS but I need to do this my way (rather than the correct way) or I wouldn't even have started. If you all knew how I'm planning to hack together a working control panel, you'd  ban me from posting and I wouldn't blame you...

[stripe4]

Yes I am planning to fit t-molding but that is the very last thing on the list. I know you're all thinking - HE SHOULD HAVE ROUTED FOR THOSE STRAIGHT AFTER CUTTING THE SIDE PANELS but I need to do this my way (rather than the correct way) or I wouldn't even have started.

I see at least one screw (the second one must be on the other side) in the photo that will obstruct the slot cutting bit. Make sure you remove it before making the t-molding slot, or you may seriously injure yourself. Flying shurikens are best kept in ninja movies. This means you will have to make the t-molding slot before painting the cab.

[yotsuya]

Thanks for the tip yotsuya was just about to order a dual cold cathode pack but many amazon reviews said the bulbs don't last very long (hours in some cases). Decided to go for a warm white led strip and 5 ft molex entension cable, hopefully that will do a decent job at least for now and save the wiring. LEDs seem to go forever so regular bulb changing will not be required.

I've had mine in my cab for 4 years now and haven't had any issues with the cold cathode tubes in it (but have had issues with other ones before), but the white LED strip and molex cable is probably a better choice and will do what you want, so good for you. 

Yes I am planning to fit t-molding but that is the very last thing on the list. I know you're all thinking - HE SHOULD HAVE ROUTED FOR THOSE STRAIGHT AFTER CUTTING THE SIDE PANELS but I need to do this my way (rather than the correct way) or I wouldn't even have started. If you all knew how I'm planning to hack together a working control panel, you'd  ban me from posting and I wouldn't blame you...

As long as you're hacking a Tankstick...