Control mapping issue on Outrun 2006

[Loafmeister]

(split from Hacking Outrun 2006 thread by Badmouth)

Hi everyone,

First:  Hope you are feeling better Howard, take care of yourself.

Second:  Irrelevant of this awesome thread on the upcoming mod, I just got myself a cockpit setup.  Drift 2 is working really well but for some reason, although Outrun 2006 Coast 2 coast recognizes my Logitech G25 steering wheel, I can't seem to steer and no amount of mapping seems to work.  Is there some kind of trick or particular setup I need to do?  I know the wheel works well because Drift 2 is flawless in its support (well, at least the automatic and semi-manual gear shifting seems to work well)

I'm kind of new at this PC racing with wheels, so appreciate any advice.  Since I read Outrun has poor controller support, I thought it would be ok to use this thread for my question, no ill intentions here.

Thanks,

Loaf

[BadMouth]

There are two things with mapping Outrun 2006:

1. Set pedals to combined (this is the case for a lot of older PC games)

2. During the calibration process, it asks you to hold the pedal in and press select, but by select, it means a different button than enter...even though enter is used for select in every other screen (for me, it's a button on my steering wheel)
Then it will ask you to let the pedal up and press select.
Then it will let you exit.

Not sure if that applies to the steering, but those are the issues most people have.  Maybe you're not making it all the way through the calibration process because of #2?
The game should work fine with any Logitech wheel.  I've used a MOMO and G27 with it.

[Loafmeister]

Thanks for the answer!  Ok, last night (before seeing your post), I ended up going further and was in fact able to map the steering wheel properly. I really have zero idea why the heck it didn't work before! LOL  Anyway, I still haven't been able to map the gas pedal properly, even if I tried inverting the axis via the Logitech software.  For Outrun 2006, no matter what, pressing down on the gas pedal I get reverse movement. IE: the meter goes down when I press it and goes back up when I don't press it.  Weird.   I was able to play a game by mapping the gas to the brake pedal and then mapping the brake to the clutch.  Not ideal but it works.. except that I can't seem to trigger drifting at all but that's the story for another day. 

I will give this a try later tonight, hope I can figure out what the "select" button is eheh.  If I could impose for one more question:  On the calibration screen, from memory (not at home) I believe there are three different selections that confuse me a bit:  calibration for gas and another for brake, and finally one that combines both gas/brake.

Can someone explain the difference?  As well, another problematic issue is the mapping of the gear shift. Is it possible to map gear shifting to the stick shift (set in high/low, not manual) on the G25 or even the G27?    Not the end of the world, I don't mind using the wheel gear shift paddles (whatever they are called, sorry for my lack of knowledge ).

Thanks again for the informed response!

edit:  setting the pedals to combined, I'm gathering this is done via the Logitech configuration software, correct?

Loaf

[Loafmeister]

Well, I already had the peddles set to "combine" so that wasn't it.  I also have been using the proper "select" (first/leftmost red button on the gear shifter below the digital pad).  Just spent over 2 hours. I can't seem to set the brake or the acceleration at the same time.  I assume I may be able to remap this via the Logitech software but right now, it's not making sense.  Hopefully it will after I sleep on it...

Thanks for the help.  I would be curious if whoever has this working with a G25 if you could post a screenshot of the Outrun 2006 settings, it would be appreciated. Prior experience has always led me to think it could be something simple I'm just missing.

Loaf

[BadMouth]

I can't seem to set the brake or the acceleration at the same time.

What exactly is happening when you map and calibrate them?
Are you sure that the button you are hitting is moving you to the next step and not backing you out of calibration?
It should be prompting you to press select after depressing the pedal and once again after letting it up.

You shouldn't need to mess with anything in profiler.  In fact, I would exit profiler before setting the game up, just in case there is a screwed up profile loading for the game. (pedal axis reversed, etc)

[Loafmeister]

I only used the profiler once I saw I was having issues but no problem in removing that option as I continue with my testing.

I took a break last night before I got really PO'ed at this game LOL.  To answer your question but keep in mind I am not home and don't have the screen in front of me:

- I move the cursor down to the option "gas axis" or whatever it's called
- I press the "select" button which then toggles a message "press the item you wish to use for this function" or something like that
- I do so and at the top I can see the axis registers
- I then press select and once I do that, it asks "indicate minimal setting for gas/accelerate" so I don't touch the pedal and press the select button
- it then switches to "indicate the maximum setting for gas/accelerate".  IE: that means it accepted the previous step as it's gone from minimum to maximum.  So I press the gas pedal to the maximum and press the "select" button on the G25 and it accepts it, the axis changes to reflect whatever option it is (something like "slide 2 X" or something like that.
- I then repeat the action for the brake pedal, same scenario, it registers the peda and I think it says for the brake it's "slide 1 X axis"
- then there is that third option that shows some kind of combined "GAS/BRAKE", not sure at all what that means. I've tried mapping it and not mapping it. If I do, it usually changes the gas pedal setting (because both can't be used?) so that kind of makes sense which is why I tend to ignore that one.

I need to be specific so tonight I'll try and grab a screenshot and post it AND be very specific about how I am calibrating.  Maybe I should try and use FRAPS and post a youtube video eheh

THis is a great game, I'm willing to try anything to get it to work right.  RIght now because of pedal placement, the ideal solution I think would be to map the brake pedal to the clutch, if only because for drifting I think it works better to be able to press both at the same time.   Have you set up yours in a similar manner?

Thanks very much again for the responses, I really appreciate the assistance.

Loaf

[MrThunderwing]

I can remember having some issues like this as well and I'm trying to recall how I sorted it out. I haven't got a G25, but using my old Thrustmaster wheel I think I was able to get everything calibrated ok with the axes separated (RZ and Y axis) rather than combined. I think the trick is you need to initially keep the pedals semi-depressed, about haflway down, before you try and set anything, because otherwise the game will register one of the axes as being constantly on. Ignore the options in the config for buttons for the accelerator and break and just concentrate on the axes. Do the gas first and once you get to the calibration bit where it asks you to fully depress the accelerator, keep the brake pedal in the same half down position but follow the instructions for the gas pedal and depress and release it when instructed. Once you've done that I think you can just let it rest in the off position without any problems whilst you calibrate the brake. I've also got a Logitech driving force GT that I was able to set-up recently without the need to change any of the default setting in the Logitech profiler software (which I think means the pedals are separate? - not 100% sure. Must admit I can't remember if I needed to keep the pedals semi-depressed or not when I was doing it) so I think you should be able to sort this out from the game's config menu with a bit of fiddling.

[Loafmeister]

Issue RESOLVED!

Ok first of all, thanks again for the assistance BadMouth and MrThunderwing, it's SOOOO appreciated.  Outrun 2006 Coast 2 Coast may not be the best racer ever, but IMHO its one of the better PC ARCADE racers.  Really loving it and playing with the wheel works very well, once issues resolved of course.

So what was the issue?  Answer at the end of the post

First, let's talk about what I tried and lets keep in mind that the settings discussed are pertaining to MY system, can't speak for other PC's:

- I tried the calibration with half-press on the pedals, didn't work.

- Also I deleted the Logitech game profile and tried again from scratch. Unfortunately, as was noted above, Outrun does NOT like the option "Report Combined Pedals" as with this option on, menu selection keeps cycling from top to bottom at the "options" screen.  However, although it didn't do this if I turned the option off, since many other racers DO like that option, I decided to try and use a profile again with the hope that I could at the very least just use it to turn this option off.

- Ok, so reset the profile, turn off "report combined pedals", get back into outrun 2006, calibrate the pedals (I get the typical "Slider Axis 1 for the gas and Slider Axis 2 for the brake) and they are all reversed.  So... looks like I need to select "Invert Axis Polarity" on all pedals (steering is fine).  So back to the %^##$ profiler, set the pedals to "invert axis polarity" and try again.  REsult, gas works as it did before but can't get brake to work, which has been the biggest problem so far.  So I exit the race, swear a couple of times like the good Canadian I am, get up from the seat to go to the keyboard and then I notice the wheel starts moving on its own, like when it autocalibrates at the boot up or when you plug it in.

Say what?

-  Check the cables, all is good.  Unplug the wheel from its current USB port, plug it into another usb port, re-enter outrun, recalibrate gas pedal and it gives me "Axis 1 Y".

Say what??

- OK, go to the brake option, calibrate and I get "Axis 2 Z"

Say what???  OK, do this is different.

- Go into a race and ... the BRAKE WORKS!  And for good measure, so does the gas!

- So I try and calibrate the clutch as the brake since I feel with the need to drift, it's easier to keep both feet ready at the pedals but one I calibrate, the brake doesn't work.

- Hmm, but the brake did work when using the brake pedal so...

- Exit Outrun, go into the profiler again, ensure I'm in the outrun profile I created (I am), click on "Brake" and select "mapped to Clutch".  Then I enter the clutch option and set it to "clutch mapped to "brake"

- Back into Outrun we go, into the options menu and recalibrate the brake but with the clutch pedal, enter a racer and  IT WORKS!!!

pause the game, enter the options menu and press "print screen" so that I can remember on this PC what the options should be! LOL.  Go back into Outrun and have a few racer and everything is working perfectly.  Exit outrun and document all of this in this post so that if I ever have to re-install, at the very least I'll have a reminder right here on what I need to do!

So that's the story, the adventure is over and there's a freaking happy ending.

Now, onto the new Outrun "Cannonball" mod to see if I can get that one to work with the wheel, then onto the model 2 emulator!

Thanks again,

Happy Loaf!

[Sp3c7r3]

After a long struggle today I was also able to setup my G27.
1. don't have the shifter in gear (when it was in gear I could select nothing)
2. compress the accelerator half way (stop scrolling in menus)

I set it to 270 degrees, and it feels about the same as the arcade, but does anyone have a solution to the HUGE deadzone?

[Fursphere]

*bump*

I was just playing this game today with my son and remembered how bad the deadzone is.  Is there a fix for this?  Or is it really just a crap game that I'm going to end up dumping because of the (horrible) controls?

I've cranked up sensitivity in the game and in the logitech profiler for my G27.  Still about a 45' deadzone either direction.   

[_Scott]

Bit late, but still, this might help someone.

I'm poor and have a Thrustmaster Ferrari GT Experience Racing Wheel 3-in-1. That was a mouthful. It's been a pain to set up for emulators especially because for some reason, when you try to calibrate your pedals, they're always on, like fully-pressed. It drove me insane and Outrun was tricky to do.

Here's the software you get with the wheel:


You can see that the pedals look fully off, but they're not. I'll show you why in a sec. If you choose Inverted in the software, it'll just swap the pedals from left to right. If you choose combined mode, it puts the pressure half-way down on both.

After loads of google searching, I found an app called Universal Joystick Remapper. To use it, you need to run vJoyConfig first and create a new joystick. Once that's done, you load up UJR, press Auto Configure Stick ID and get this:


Now I can see my pedal axis are always on..

Click the invert button. Profiles are automatically saved.


You can fiddle with your steering sensitivity and deadzone as well..

To disable it, you need to go into Device Manager "Run>devmgmt.msc" and disable vJoy Device under Human Interface Devices.

Links:
http://vjoystick.sourceforge.net/site/index.php/download-a-install/72-download
http://evilc.com/joomla/articles/9-code/autohotkey/1-ujr-universal-joystick-remapper

[MrThunderwing]

I'm poor and have a Thrustmaster Ferrari GT Experience Racing Wheel 3-in-1.

Such a great wheel for it's incredibly modest price. I picked one up a few years ago on a spur of the moment from GAME (my 1st ever PC wheel) for £29 not even sure if I'd be able to get it to work on any emulators at the time but willing to give it a shot. First time I got it working on Daytona USA on Model 2 Emu it immediately felt like I was playing the arcade version (minus the FFB obviously), something I'd never experienced at home before with the couple of brief forays I'd had into the home console steering wheel market. It even works great on the DC version of Daytona USA 2001 if you play it via DEMUL.

[_Scott]

First time I got it working on Daytona USA on Model 2 Emu it immediately felt like I was playing the arcade version

You think? That's excellent news, thanks. I wondered how it compared to the real thing because I haven't played on a real arcade machine for a long time and have no way to tell if it's anything like it. I was fearing walking into an arcade and it being totally different.

[MrThunderwing]

First time I got it working on Daytona USA on Model 2 Emu it immediately felt like I was playing the arcade version

You think? That's excellent news, thanks. I wondered how it compared to the real thing because I haven't played on a real arcade machine for a long time and have no way to tell if it's anything like it. I was fearing walking into an arcade and it being totally different.

Hmmm, I should probably just add a little addendum/disclaimer to that and say that it played how I remembered the arcade version felt. It's probably been a good 11 or 12 years since I've actually played a real Daytona USA arcade machine. Back in those arcade days I always used to just get by using automatic transmission, it's only since using M2 Emu I've started using manual gears, so I'm not sure how it would compare if you're used to using an H shifter (I used to get around the GT 3-in-1's lack of a stick shifter by using a separate joypad like a button shifter, but now I think it's easier to just use the 4 buttons that are placed on the wheel itself).

[_Scott]

Same, I probably went automatic every time back then..

I've been practicing at home with manual by using the up and down keys on the keyboard Or if it's Daytona, the numpad keys. If feels better than pressing keys on the wheel, because my arm is stretched out and to the side.

[gurbzs]

Wow, lot of information here, thanx guys.

I 've completed screen setup

Now mapping controls on sidewinder force feedback wheel

[isamu]

Bit late, but still, this might help someone.

I'm poor and have a Thrustmaster Ferrari GT Experience Racing Wheel 3-in-1. That was a mouthful. It's been a pain to set up for emulators especially because for some reason, when you try to calibrate your pedals, they're always on, like fully-pressed. It drove me insane and Outrun was tricky to do.

Here's the software you get with the wheel:


You can see that the pedals look fully off, but they're not. I'll show you why in a sec. If you choose Inverted in the software, it'll just swap the pedals from left to right. If you choose combined mode, it puts the pressure half-way down on both.

After loads of google searching, I found an app called Universal Joystick Remapper. To use it, you need to run vJoyConfig first and create a new joystick. Once that's done, you load up UJR, press Auto Configure Stick ID and get this:


Now I can see my pedal axis are always on..

Click the invert button. Profiles are automatically saved.


You can fiddle with your steering sensitivity and deadzone as well..

To disable it, you need to go into Device Manager "Run>devmgmt.msc" and disable vJoy Device under Human Interface Devices.

Links:
http://vjoystick.sourceforge.net/site/index.php/download-a-install/72-download
http://evilc.com/joomla/articles/9-code/autohotkey/1-ujr-universal-joystick-remapper

Bump because this is VERY GOOD advice!!!!! Scott has basically pointed you to *THE* go to program to use with OR2K6 to resolve its controller problems. UJR, coupled with vJoy, is the exact same software solution I use to use when I last played OR2. In fact, I actually mentioned it somewhere in that gigantic OutRun 2006 Hacking thread sometime back in 2012!

Anyway Scott just a heads up, EvilC has supposedly abandoned UJR in favor of UCR, the newer version. I haven't had time to try it yet but he says it's pretty good and is a massive improvement over UJR. The only thing is that I'm not sure if he's gotten it to work with vJoy yet. Gonna have to inquire about that on his forum.