Got a couple contruction Q's

[slicer_d]

I'm working on my cocktail cab and have a couple questions.  For reference I'm using 3/4" MDF

1. I've gotten most of my big parts traced out and will need to cut them out soon what would you guys suggest to do this with?  All I really have access to is a skillsaw/buzzsaw, jigsaw, and router.  I dont have any special tables to mount these things on either just some big heavy folding tables to put stuff on.  I'm really just worried about making straight lines here I just want to make sure they arent all wobbly or just off.

2. What size bit do I need to make the t-molding groove?  I have seen some around but I have no idea what to get.  If anybody wants to sell one I would be interested also if somebody knows a website they are cheap from I would be inerested.

3. I'm planning on using L brakets to as well as gluing dowwels when I use the L brackets should I predrill the hole for the screw or not?  I was planning on testing this on scrap but I figured I would ask anyway.

Thats all I can think of for now I'm sure I will find more when I start doing the details and control pannels.

Thanks
Slicer_D

[TalkingOctopus]

1) Take the time to setup and use a saw guide.  That way you cannot cut anything but a straight line.  

2) 1/16".  I got mine at Sears.

3) I used 1"x2" strips of wood instead of L-brackets.  I saw posts on this board that this method was sturdier.

[bluGill]

1: circular saw (skillsaw, but your refering to it as a buzzsaw is something I've never seen and worrys me that we might not be using the same terminology) with a sharp MDF blade.  They make special blades for MDF, but if you can't find one at least make sure it is a plywood blade and sharp.  The blade you use for 2x4s is the wrong one, though it would work your cut won't be as nice. Set your depth to be about 1/16th more than depth of the wood, and cut on the backside of the next piece.  Have one extra piece for so the last one isn't cut on the ground.  (I know this is impractical unless you use MDF all the time for other projects and then you wouldn't be asking)  That is what we do in carpendry, (where we always have plenty of extra lumber just in case) and we get fairly straight cuts when we go slow.  The saw will cut a lot faster than you can control it!  A dull blade will be slow enough to control, but cut worse than a sharp blade where you don't keep your speed down.

Someone else will have to answer your other questiosn.

[Apollo]

To ensure you get straight cuts in the MDF you can either clamp or preferably nail a guide ( just a straight peice of 1"X2" pine ) on to the piece of wood you are cutting. And clamp the MDF to your cutting surface at at least 2 points.
16th of an inch slot cutter for your router.
Yes predrill your screw holes always, make sure you use a slightly smaller drill bit than the diameter of your screws. You will find it a lot easier to put together using strips of wood along the edges rather than L-brackets as you can screw and glue them, L-brackets won't be very sturdy.
Have fun.

[slicer_d]

Thanks for the tips guys.  I will try and set some guide up for the major straight cuts for the sides and top.  BluGill I will find a MDF or plywood saw balde.  And yes I know I'm retard and dont know the names of all these tools but I'm learning.  Also I have no idea how to set the depth on the cirular saw and I really have no extra wood of any sort I think I will just try and use some sort of a guide setup on a table.

Also how do I use the strips of wood in the coners if anybody can point me to a guide or kind of explain how its done it would be much appreciated.

[Frostillicus]

Check out the examples pages - there are tons of construction photos throughout people's sites.  That should give you some idea.

[Bonesthedog]

Home depot will cut it for you for 50 cents a cut.

[bluGill]

Its time to learn to set the depth of your cut, something you should always do.  

First, unplug the saw.  (I never do this, but it is good advice, ignore it at your own risk)

Behind the saw there is a lever beside the handle, flip it up.

The metal plate on the saw will now move up and down.  

Pull the balde gaurd back, and set the plate on your wood, with the blade hanging off the side.  

Move the saw so that the plate is still on the wood, and the bottom of the blade is just slightly lower than the board you are going to cut.

Push the lever down just enough to hold the plate from moving.  A lot of novices make the mistake of pushing this lever down as hard as they can, this will eventially ruin the depth of cut so don't do it.

plug your saw in and cut away.   Be careful not to cut the cord.  Sounds stupid, but half the expirenced carpenders cut a cord at least once in the 9 months I was in the buisness.  (The idiots managed to do it up to 3 times in a week)  Also don't cut yourself, this is a dangerous tool.

It isn't hard, but you should know how to do it.  If this doesn't make sense, either read the manual or pay someone else to do it.  There are some people who shouldn't own tools if you are one of them it is better to admit it and spend time doing something you can do (perhaps that I shouldn't do...) instead.

[Stingray]

"Behind the saw there is a lever beside the handle, flip it up."

Just for clarifacation purposes, I'd like to point out that your saw may have a different securing mechanism. Mine has thumb screws, for example.

-S

[shmokes]

To ensure you get straight cuts in the MDF you can either clamp or preferably nail a guide ( just a straight peice of 1"X2" pine ) on to the piece of wood you are cutting.

By the way, your hardware store will sell some nice metal staight-edges.  They can get up around $15 or so, but I recommend it.  The 1x2 pine you buy is almost definitely warped, at least a little.

[slicer_d]

Thanks again for the help guys.  And BluGill I found what you were talking about it was in a different place on my saw then most others but It worked.  I have gotten basically all the large pieces done except for the top part but I havent bought any 1" MDF yet. Most came out pretty well one piece did move and I got a little off but less than a 16th of an inch but I straightend it out halfway through the cut and in the location its in it shouldnt be noticed.

I do have one more question though.  I plan on sanding some of the edges just to smooth things out a little so what sould I use to sand with or does it matter?  I have one of those sanding machines that move the attached sheet of sand paper back and forth really quick, would that work ok or what?

Thanks again especially to BluGill I got the special blade for the circular saw and it worked like a dream.