Ikari Warriors rotary sticks, or buy new ones, for MAME cabinet

[clhug]

I got hold of a broken Ikari Warriors game at an auction for $10.  I bought it with the intention of ripping out the rotary sticks to use in my MAME cabinet.  Just wondering if that's a good idea, or if I'd be better off buying a current technology stick for that purpose.  If it's suggested to just buy something new, what should I look at for rotary sticks?

Thank you!

[PL1]

It's your property so it's your decision, but since you asked . . .   

If you need to service the rotary switches on those LS-30 sticks, there is a good writeup here.

If they are in good shape, they are usually in fairly high demand, especially if they have uncut harnesses. (please don't cut the original harness if you can avoid it)

For a MAME cab with a wood panel, a Happ Mechanical Rotary from Divemaster here would be easier to mount. (Be sure to specify the mechanical 50-5618-00 in your order notes.  ) 

BTW, the Happ sticks are still being produced -- the LS-30s aren't AFAIK.

For a rotary encoder, I recommend the open-source keyboard-style KADE miniArcade or microArcade encoders available here.  More info here.

GGG also has two gamepad-style GP-Wiz40 models here with rotary support.

Personally, I would avoid the Ultimarc Rotary encoder -- it is plug-and-play, but isn't configurable and only encodes the rotary switch, not the joystick microswitches or other buttons, so you'll need an IPac or other encoder as well.

Also remember to properly configure the rotary games in MAME -- full rotary game list here.

Is the Ikari Warriors cab a candidate for restoration or is it just a parted-out shell?


Scott

[clhug]

Thanks for the response!

The question was more about the technology.  Are the modern rotary sticks that can be purchased elsewhere just better in quality or performance?  Or for example, I'm not sure how many rotary "positions" there are on the Ikari sticks, but do modern rotary sticks have more positions that I'd be better off with?  Or just any other reasons that I should consider purchasing modern rotary sticks instead of reusing the Ikari Warriors sticks? 

I believe they are in good shape, and they still have the harnesses.  Though I have not had the opportunity yet to actually hook them up to find out if every position actually works.

Good mention on the encoder.  I was actually wondering how I hook them up, and just forgot to answer.  Thanks!

I do already have the larger I-Pac for the regular joysticks.  I'm thinking I would probably just wire the actual joystick switches in parallel with the normal Player 1 & Player 2 sticks.  Or maybe just replace my Player 1 & Player 2 sticks with these.  (Long term I want to build a swappable control panel.)

Not sure if the cabinet could be restored or not.  It looks like a complete game part-wise, just doesn't work.  However, it MIGHT only be a dead monitor.  I do know the monitor has a blown fuse that just blows again when replaced.  I can still hear the game when I power it on, but without the monitor I can't be sure the game is actually working either.  But since I got it for only $10, I'm more interested in stealing the rotary sticks for my own MAME cabinet, unless as I said above, there are other reasons I should consider purchasing modern rotary sticks.

Or I suppose unless this thing is worth more money if I sold the parts or cabinet to someone interested in restoring it that then I could use that money to buy new rotary sticks.  I will say though, I don't have the expertise to fix the montor, and don't really want to mess with replacing it (don't know where to get a working replacement).

Thanks again!

[PL1]

Are the modern rotary sticks that can be purchased elsewhere just better in quality or performance?  Or for example, I'm not sure how many rotary "positions" there are on the Ikari sticks, but do modern rotary sticks have more positions that I'd be better off with?  Or just any other reasons that I should consider purchasing modern rotary sticks instead of reusing the Ikari Warriors sticks? 

The LS-30 and Happ handle differently, but no major technological advantages for either one AFAIK.

Happ Rotary sticks are modded versions of the Happ Super -- both sticks handle similarly.

Mechanical rotary sticks have 12 clicks/positions per rotation.

Optical rotary sticks (Loop-24 or Happ Optical Rotary) have 24 transitions per rotation, but are not a good substitute for the mechanical sticks -- only four games that I know of used optical rotary sticks.

From what you say below, this game is playing blind and worth far more if you don't poach the sticks out of this cab for use in your MAME cab.

As the saying goes, "Don't maim for MAME."

I believe they are in good shape, and they still have the harnesses.  Though I have not had the opportunity yet to actually hook them up to find out if every position actually works.

With the cab powered down, you can unplug the 13-pin connector and ohm out the switch, each click connecting ground to the next pin in turn.   

Good mention on the encoder.  I was actually wondering how I hook them up, and just forgot to answer.  Thanks!

I do already have the larger I-Pac for the regular joysticks.  I'm thinking I would probably just wire the actual joystick switches in parallel with the normal Player 1 & Player 2 sticks.  Or maybe just replace my Player 1 & Player 2 sticks with these.  (Long term I want to build a swappable control panel.)

You only need to connect 7 wires to a Minimus AVR/KADE to handle the rotary encoding for two sticks.

Not sure if the cabinet could be restored or not.  It looks like a complete game part-wise, just doesn't work.  However, it MIGHT only be a dead monitor.  I do know the monitor has a blown fuse that just blows again when replaced.  I can still hear the game when I power it on, but without the monitor I can't be sure the game is actually working either.  But since I got it for only $10, I'm more interested in stealing the rotary sticks for my own MAME cabinet, unless as I said above, there are other reasons I should consider purchasing modern rotary sticks.

Or I suppose unless this thing is worth more money if I sold the parts or cabinet to someone interested in restoring it that then I could use that money to buy new rotary sticks.  I will say though, I don't have the expertise to fix the montor, and don't really want to mess with replacing it (don't know where to get a working replacement).

If the sticks are working properly and you can fix the monitor, it sounds like you will have a full working cab. 

Instead of parting it for just the sticks, you can probably sell it as-is "playing blind" to cover the expense of another pair of sticks and a rotary encoder.


Scott

[MTPPC]

Sell the LS-30s and buy brand new Happs. Remember you need that special tool to get the yellow knobs of the LS30.

[PL1]

Sell the LS-30s and buy brand new Happs. Remember you need that special tool to get the yellow knobs of the LS30.

You mean this one?      




Scott

[clhug]

Thanks much!!

[paigeoliver]

Sell the whole Ikari cabinet and use the proceeds to buy new rotary sticks. The used ones are probably going to be wrecked anyway, I usually need at least 3 or 4 old rotary sticks to be able to come up with 2 halfway decent ones.

[Kier]

Sell the whole Ikari cabinet and use the proceeds to buy new rotary sticks. The used ones are probably going to be wrecked anyway, I usually need at least 3 or 4 old rotary sticks to be able to come up with 2 halfway decent ones.

  This /\

Enough said.

[tommyinajar]

I never tired them but don't the Happs have quite a different "feel" to them compared with the LS-30's?

[clhug]

My only concern with selling the cab is that I bought it for $10 at a regular auction that gets a lot of local collectors, and obviously nobody there wanted it at that time.  I'm a bit afraid that if I take it back to that auction, nobody will want it again and I'll end up paying the auctioneer fee to just bring it right back home.

I suppose I could try to sell on ebay, but I've got no idea how I'd ship a whole cabinet.  I'm not a big collector myself so I've never dealt with selling something like this before.  (I've bought a few functioning games at that same auction in addition to building my MAME cabinet, but never sold anything.)

Plus I can't be sure the game board actually works.  I hear noises, but I have no way to verify.  I don't want to give somebody false hope that all they have to do is replace the monitor and have a working game, or get them mad at me because I say the board works and they get it and turns out it doesn't.

Any advice on how to sell it would be appreciated.

[clhug]

Side note, I just rechecked the cabinet and it's not an Ikari Warriors.  It's a Time Soldiers.

[paigeoliver]

My only concern with selling the cab is that I bought it for $10 at a regular auction that gets a lot of local collectors, and obviously nobody there wanted it at that time.  I'm a bit afraid that if I take it back to that auction, nobody will want it again and I'll end up paying the auctioneer fee to just bring it right back home.

I suppose I could try to sell on ebay, but I've got no idea how I'd ship a whole cabinet.  I'm not a big collector myself so I've never dealt with selling something like this before.  (I've bought a few functioning games at that same auction in addition to building my MAME cabinet, but never sold anything.)

Plus I can't be sure the game board actually works.  I hear noises, but I have no way to verify.  I don't want to give somebody false hope that all they have to do is replace the monitor and have a working game, or get them mad at me because I say the board works and they get it and turns out it doesn't.

Any advice on how to sell it would be appreciated.

Auctions are weird. A lot of auction prices are more based on how much room people have on their trucks then it is on real market value.

List it on Craigslist. As is, seems to be playing blind. $125. Real game collectors buy most of their games broken, it really isn't a big deal. Also, you don't replace monitors you repair them (19" crt monitors went out of production 2006ish).

[paigeoliver]

Also, post a picture of what you have, it will help quite a bit.

I have a Time Soldiers in my gameroom.

[clhug]

Also, you don't replace monitors you repair them (19" crt monitors went out of production 2006ish).

Tell me about it.  I've got an Arkanoid II that I know does work that the monitor died on that I want to repair, only I'm not knowledgeable enough to troubleshoot it myself.  Got another thread on that too.

[clhug]

Also, post a picture of what you have, it will help quite a bit.

I have a Time Soldiers in my gameroom.

I'll try to take some pictures this weekend.

[clhug]

Also, post a picture of what you have, it will help quite a bit.

Okay, here you go, spread out over the next few posts since I can only have 8 pics per post.  Probably way more than you wanted but I figure better have too many than not enough.

Here's also a few quick notes.

I'm pretty sure the game board does work, though again I can't be 100% sure since I can't see it play on screen.  But I can trip the coin mechs, press the player buttons, and hear music and shooting noises as I press the Fire button, and every now and then as I'm spinning the stick and firing I hear a voice say "Got him" or something like that (can't remember for sure).

Obviously some wear and tear on the cabinet overall.

The marquee is obviously missing.  The fluorescent fixture behind it is missing the bulb, and there's a wire loose to it.  It does have the lower "L" bracket for securing a marquee though (you'll see it laying along the right side bottom in the shot of the open front that shows the power supply and game board.)

Artwork on the right side of the cabinet appears flawless, but artwork on the left side has obviously had part of the edges scraped off.

Dirt and discoloration seen in the control panel closeups is under the plexiglass.

There's no cam lock on the front.  I wedged a tiny piece of wood along side the coin door to keep it closed to take the front picture.

The big bolt on the lower front is where I suppose you'd put a padlock and opens into the area, and contains plastic canisters, where the coins fall into.

[clhug]

More closeup pics.

The artwork around the monitor under the tinted plexiglass is in pretty good shape, though maybe a bit faded.

Monitor has some obvious burn-in.

The game board itself looks very clean.

Includes Installation manual.

On the monitor, I had never opened the back of the cabinet before today (since all I was interested in was the sticks) and I discovered that obviously the board that sticks on the back of the tube, isn't.  I'm half tempted to plug it in and see what happens.  It couldn't be that simple.  I highly doubt it.

Note that the coin mech picture is upside down because it's on a door hinged at the bottom and swung down in the open position to reveal the power supply and game board.

[paigeoliver]

Ok, that is a Sega convertacab. The game kit installer botched the installation of the kit by forcing one player to play with the incorrect hand. Game was probably a Zaxxon, I can see a serial sticker in one of your pictures but it isn't clear enough for me to read.

Go ahead and put that neckboard back on and try firing up the game. You have nothing to loose.

[clok]

memories, that is so exact what i had (my 3rd machine ever) in the early mid 90's I would swear its my old machine. Same cab, same conversion. I cant remember if mine was a Zaxxon or a Congo Bongo (as Paige mentioned). Wish i had never sold it (or any of the other machines).  Actually not to bad a game, one of the easier ones to MASTER, and not the Best of the rotary games (i still like Heavy barrel the most) but it was fun and the differnt time periods at least made it slightly interesting. I know I played the crap out of mine. Thanks for the shots.

[clhug]

Holy crap!  I can't believe it!!  I plugged in the neck board on the monitor and lo and behold, the thing WORKS!!  So other than a missing marquee and non-functioning marquee light, I've got a fully functional game!

So if I list this thing on Craigslist, what's a good asking price, keeping in mind the missing marquee and bad marquee light (though I could probably repair that easy enough myself)?

Although I also have a known good working Arkanoid II that the monitor died in, and I don't have the knowledge to repair it on my own.  Now I'm half tempted to take the monitor out of this Time Soldiers and swap it.

What would be a reasonable asking price if I list it on Craigslist knowing that the game itself works but with a bad monitor?

[clhug]

Here's a few pics of the monitor working.  Actually works pretty well.

Any tips on what to ask for this if I list it on Craigslist, given that it's missing the marquee?