Diving into my first build - Input appreciated.

[dupreesdiamond]

For a long time I've wanted an arcade game cabinet of my own. This week I finally started looking into making it a reality.  I've spent the last couple of days researching and perusing this site (thanks to all the contributors) putting together an approach and plan.  My goal is to build a simple MAME cabinet to play classic arcade games from the 70s-90s and maybe a bit of Atari/NES as well. 

I'm not a purist or anything like that and I'm just looking to make a decent 2 person Cab with a trackball (Golden Tee is a must) that I can move out to the deck when we throw a BBQ. 

Components (as of this writing):

Emulation Machine: Raspberry Pi 3b+ running RetroPie
Display: Currently looking at ViewSonic VA2459-SMH 24" IPS LED Monitor 1080p 16:9 1920x1080  [open to suggestions here (wrt to 24" 16:9 screens, i'm set on this format, just not necessarily this model), trying to minimize cost but still get a decent screen. Wide screen is fine]
Joysticks: 2x Ultrastik360 [seems to provide the most versatility for whatever games may come up. Qbert will be played!]
Buttons: 12x Ultimarc Gold Leaf Transparent RGB LED buttons (6 for each player); 4 Control buttons 1P/2P/1Coin/2Coin not sure which type I want to get here.
TrackBall : Ultimarc U-Track Translucent trackball with RGB LED Lights
Control Interface: The Joysticks and Trackball will connect via USB to the RPi.  For the Buttons trying to decide if I need the I-Pac Ultimate I/O or if I can just use the "Gamepad" mode on the U360s and get by with the PACLED64 to control the LEDs.  Any advice in this area also appreciated
Will embed 4 usb ports in the front of the CP to use gamepad controllers in case of more than 2 players or interest in games that need more than a stick and 6 buttons.

I will be building the box out of 1/2" ply to save on weight.     3/4" ply for the sides for sturdiness per discussion below.


I like the MKII box design but found it, along with all the cabinet plans (with detailed measurements) to deep for my liking/space.  But today I stumbled into Chance's detailed build and specifically his cabinet plans/measurements bonus it's not all that dissimilar to the MKII cabinet.  As my CP will only have 2 players I will design it to be a simple rectangle the same size, or maybe a bit wider, than the cabinet itself. 

Tonight I've put pen to paper and sketched out my cabinet design.


(ignore the random blue line across the base...initial attempt started to high and didn't leave enough space at the top of the page....)

Tomorrow I intend to cut out a template from 1/4" plywood to see how it looks and if the height (shooting for ~38.5" to the top of the CP) works for me.  If I like it then I'll get the 1/2" rough cut it then attach the 1/4" template with some double sided tape and clamps then use a flush trim bit to cut 2 identical panels.  With any luck I'll see this through and will update this thread accordingly.   

Any lessons learned/watchouts or advice you may have I'm all ears.   

[jennifer]

Seems you did your homework, that's a good start, even the grid paper plans,...I would seriously consider 3/4in however it will be heavier yes but considerably more rigid.

[leapinlew]

For fun, you might enjoy reading the awesome Mission Control Project:

Pixel Hugger's Mission Control

There is something out there I use called Sandeply at Home Depot. One of the edges can be finished and it's worked for me and remarkably light.

[javeryh]

If you are going to play 70s-90s arcade games then I would not use a 16:9 monitor.  Get a 4:3.  You will be much happier - the widescreen monitors look weird, IMO, and make the cabinets look even weirder.  Dell makes a 20.5" monitor that you can get for like $100 or you can try and find a CRT.  Also, use a cheap PC.  Raspberry pi is horrible for MAME and with a full sized cabinet you have plenty of room.  PCs are way more flexible too so you can get everything to behave how you want much easier than on the pi.  Just my $0.02.  Good luck!   

[dupreesdiamond]

If you are going to play 70s-90s arcade games then I would not use a 16:9 monitor.  Get a 4:3.  You will be much happier - the widescreen monitors look weird, IMO, and make the cabinets look even weirder.  Dell makes a 20.5" monitor that you can get for like $100 or you can try and find a CRT.  Also, use a cheap PC.  Raspberry pi is horrible for MAME and with a full sized cabinet you have plenty of room.  PCs are way more flexible too so you can get everything to behave how you want much easier than on the pi.  Just my $0.02.  Good luck!   

Thanks.  I've read a bunch on this topic.  In the end I've decided that I'm not that discerning and this is the path, for me, of least resistance monitor wise.  And initially I can borrow my desktop's display to see how much it bother's me. I've, off and on over the years, played with emulators on my desktop and haven't been bothered with the picture all that much. 

The Pi too, for me, offers the  least amount of resistance being fairly turnkey vs trying to agonize, and I will warranted or not, over each component offering more spending opportunities.

Got my template built.  Other than it being short in total height I like it and if it needs an inch or two a base is an easy addition.

[Mike A]

A 4:3 LCD isn't any more difficult to deal with than a widescreen. With the squarish LCD your cabinet proportions will look better. Widescreen cabs look weird. The profile needs some work. The top looks much larger than it did in your drawing.

[dupreesdiamond]

A 4:3 LCD isn't any more difficult to deal with than a widescreen. With the squarish LCD your cabinet proportions will look better. Widescreen cabs look weird. The profile needs some work. The top looks much larger than it did in your drawing.

Thanks.  Right.  no harder but more limiting from my perspective. 

From what I can tell the 24" widescreen gives me screen real estate somewhere between a 19-20" 4:3. And, who knows, maybe in the future I'll find myself replacing the innards with a PC and/or otherwise playing more modern games on it.   The space I have in mind for it will accommodate the wide unit just fine and a wider build gives me more elbow room and I'll take all I can get. 

The profile does look fatter up top than the drawing in that photo but the measurements work out maybe it's just the angle of the picture, idk.  As you mention it maybe it'll work better with a 2" haircut I'll have to play around with the pencil a bit. Cheers!

I appreciate and want to invite feedback/input for sure at the same time  I'd appreciate the consideration that the screen format of 24" 16:9 as decided and I'd welcome input on what specs, within the monitors of that type, should be prioritized or desired (i.e. refresh rate, screen type, etc or brand recommendations).

[dupreesdiamond]

For fun, you might enjoy reading the awesome Mission Control Project:
Pixel Hugger's Mission Control

There is something out there I use called Sandeply at Home Depot. One of the edges can be finished and it's worked for me and remarkably light.

Man that thing is sweet, nice write up to!  Thanks! 

I'm assuming the comment about Sandeply was seperate but got caught up in the mark-up?   Didn't see any at the big box store today but read up on it online a bit. folks seem to say it doesn't take paint/stain/finish all that well.  I'll keep looking into/for it, anything to keep the weight to a reasonable level.   

With the comment from "jennifer" I'm re-evaluating the 1/2 vs 3/4", especially with a design that can cut both sides from a single sheet. If I land on 3/4 weight minimization might trump those aforementioned negatives if the sandeply is noticeably lighter.  For sure I won't be building it out of MDF.  Was lifting the sheets at the home center today.  MDF is a beast. 

[jennifer]

Wheels on the back make even a beast relitivly easy to move, But weight is a good thing not only is the whole machine solid but is planted firmly while playing even aggessevly...It was common build practice however to rabbit 1/2 into the back edge and use 1/2 on the back...And don't forget about the T moulding after you cut a groove in 1/2 there is not much meat left on that front edge (especially if it is a little less then perfect) or cut deep...Ps, Sanded Maple is really nice to work with, birch is cheaper but chippy, Mdf is heavy and does NOT like moisture, and oak us expensive/heavy.

[dupreesdiamond]

Wheels on the back make even a beast relitivly easy to move, But weight is a good thing not only is the whole machine solid but is planted firmly while playing even aggessevly...It was common build practice however to rabbit 1/2 into the back edge and use 1/2 on the back...And don't forget about the T moulding after you cut a groove in 1/2 there is not much meat left on that front edge (especially if it is a little less then perfect) or cut deep.

Thanks.  Hadn't thought about the T-Molding installation it would leave it pretty fragile especially near voids in the ply...  3/4 it is.

Yeah I like working with Maple.   THough I wish I had the money to use Teak and Holly ply (as seen on boats usually); made a cornhole set for a friend using it.  Came out really nice, hated to part with them.  Heavy and like $800+ a sheet though... thankfully it worked out that a friend of the friend had pieces left over from a project that fit nicely. 

[jennifer]

OMG those turned out really nice, you don't see that everyday...I for one look forward to your new cab. (Wink )

[dupreesdiamond]

So.  Got around to actually building the control panel shopping list today and got a bit of sticker shock.   So I'm looking at cost cutting options (short of ditching the RGB LED Buttons as I really like the idea of lighting up the usable buttons for a given game).

Obviously I could save a good bit of coin by ditching the U360 sticks for something less flexible especially as my current plan isn't really taking advantage of their ability to act as the control board as, otherwise, I could leverage that functionality to ditch the I/O board altogether.  But being that I'm dead set on the RGB LEDs I'd still need a ~$50 driver for that. 

Now I could get the Mag Stick or Servo stick (I def will need both 4 and 8 way and can't be bothered to open up the CP to switch or expect guests to) but that eliminates QBert which is a game I want to play and support (mom was a huge Qbert player on Atari when I was a kid so def. need that whenever she visits).  But in my digital travels I came across a comment on an old/dead thread stating that you really only need the 4 way (and Qbert) functionality on 1 stick as there "aren't many/any" multiplayer 4 way games. 

Would appreciate hearing from the retro gaming vets around here on that idea.  Does it make sense to go with P1 flexible (like a U360) then a cheaper dedicated 8 way for P2?
(I haven't actually done any retro gaming until this week when I dove into this project and that which i've done this week, obviously, has been with a PS3 controller plugged into my desktop)   
Immediate downside that jumps out at me is that the 2 sticks would play/feel different but it's not like there's going to be serious gaming with a discerning public happening over here.

[Gilrock]

I agree with Mike the profile you cut does not appear to match the drawing.  For instance the front edge on the top where the marquee would be you had listed as 8" and where the angle slopes down in the back you have listed as 9".  Its clear from the photo the back angle that is supposed to be 9" down is higher up than the front.  I'd double-check your measurements.

[JudgeRob]

I have U360s and I like them, but you should be able to play Qbert on 8-ways if you need to save the money. 

If Golden Tee is your thing, you should check to see if it is playable on a Pi.  If you want hi-rez and sound, it requires a lot of horsepower to emulate it.  Also, if you are a trackball slapper, you might need to redesign your CP to have more real estate between the ball and the screen.

[dupreesdiamond]

thanks!

i checked but for sure, before ordering the trackball, i will double check the compatibility.   sound  is less of a concern especially for golden tee.
hmm  for qbert ill have to see if i can test it with a control pad or something  if it works decently with an 8 way that would really free me up

good point on placement!  i intend to put the trackball more forward indeed when i get designing to the CP layout.

[dupreesdiamond]

I agree with Mike the profile you cut does not appear to match the drawing.  For instance the front edge on the top where the marquee would be you had listed as 8" and where the angle slopes down in the back you have listed as 9".  Its clear from the photo the back angle that is supposed to be 9" down is higher up than the front.  I'd double-check your measurements.

Thanks!

I never made it back out to the shop yesterday to Remeasure but this has been rattling around ever since you posted. 
Think I finally figured it out over lunch.  I’ll have to confirm when I get home tonight.  But I think what I did was misread the long measurement on the back as 67 instead of 62. That didn’t affect the over all height since I laid the front out first and the last line was the rear diagonal. Which is what I double checked without realizing the obvious inconsistency you pointed out wherein the back is to long, at 67, for the expected height.