New guy, new project. Free cab!

[owkenobi]

Howdy everybody.

I've dreamed of having an arcade cab for years. When I was younger, it seemed that the finances and tools were out of reach. Now that I'm a bit older, having two kids and running a business, it never seemed to be the right time.

I'd honestly hoped to get one of those xtension cabs at some point, simply because it would be simple-ish and wouldn't be too deep of a cab...

But then I just happened across this on Craiglist. For free! I see now on the computer my pictures are awful, I should take new ones.

The inside is marked w/ a serial number and says "Interchangeable Game Cabinet Manufactured by Wizard Electronics." I haven't been able to find out anything about Wizard Electronics or this kind of cabinet, anyone know anything?

There's no coin door, no monitor, and no control panel, so I have some work to do.  The screen panel is hinged and lifts up. Where the joystick(s?) would have been in a simple panel, the previous owner mentioned using consoles with it. (probably a sega saturn, based on the number of sega saturn stickers...)

I'm trying to do this on as much of a budget as possible, so I'm looking at x-arcade's 2 player DIY kit, but i know they don't have the best reputation on here.

And the pics:

[BadMouth]

The x-arcade interface is limited to 6 simultaneous button presses if you use the USB interface.
So if both players are pressing at an angle (triggering two direction each), that only leave two other buttons registering.
That might cause issues with fighting games.

If you use the PS2 input instead, you won't have that limitation but I still don't like the interface because if you don't like the default mappings, you have to press a button twice every time the computer is started to load alternate mappings.

Most other interfaces out there are better.  If you price similar quality buttons and joysticks at reputable vendors, you should be able to put together a package for about the same price.


If I got that cabinet and didn't want to spend much money, I'd keep an eye out for a free 20+" CRT monitor on craigslist.
Easier to find, but not as good would be a CRT TV with s-video input.  I'd pass on TVs with only composite video inputs (the single yellow rca jack).  Text is pretty hard to read over that connection.  I'd hold out for free for any of these options.  The s-video option would require you to buy an old video card with s-vid out.

Do you have the tools and ability to make bracing to hold the monitor and cut holes for the controls?
It doesn't have to look like fine furniture.  If you can cut some 2x4's to length and screw them in place, you'll be fine.

[owkenobi]

The x-arcade interface is limited to 6 simultaneous button presses if you use the USB interface.
So if both players are pressing at an angle (triggering two direction each), that only leave two other buttons registering.
That might cause issues with fighting games.

<snip>
Most other interfaces out there are better.  If you price similar quality buttons and joysticks at reputable vendors, you should be able to put together a package for about the same price.

I didn't know that about the button presses. I would certainly like to play SFII 2 player, so that would be an issue. I don't think I'll be playing anything more intense than that. Just looking at Ultimarc and groovy game gear, it doesn't seem like I'd be able to get an interface, joysticks and buttons for less than $100+, but I will do some more thorough searching today. I'm a bit hesitant about soldering, but I bet I could do it...

If I got that cabinet and didn't want to spend much money, I'd keep an eye out for a free 20+" CRT monitor on craigslist.
Easier to find, but not as good would be a CRT TV with s-video input.  I'd pass on TVs with only composite video inputs (the single yellow rca jack).  Text is pretty hard to read over that connection.  I'd hold out for free for any of these options.  The s-video option would require you to buy an old video card with s-vid out.

Do you have the tools and ability to make bracing to hold the monitor and cut holes for the controls?
It doesn't have to look like fine furniture.  If you can cut some 2x4's to length and screw them in place, you'll be fine.

The good news is I have a 19" LCD 4:3 monitor and a mostly working first-gen Macbook running boot camp, so all I need is the control panel and some kind of preamp for the speakers. (there's some sony speakers mounted above the screen)

I think I should be able to rig up a control panel with some scrap wood, I do have paddle drill bits and such so I think I can make it work. Like you say, not fine furniture.

[JDFan]

The x-arcade interface is limited to 6 simultaneous button presses if you use the USB interface.
So if both players are pressing at an angle (triggering two direction each), that only leave two other buttons registering.
That might cause issues with fighting games.

<snip>
Most other interfaces out there are better.  If you price similar quality buttons and joysticks at reputable vendors, you should be able to put together a package for about the same price.

I didn't know that about the button presses. I would certainly like to play SFII 2 player, so that would be an issue. I don't think I'll be playing anything more intense than that. Just looking at Ultimarc and groovy game gear, it doesn't seem like I'd be able to get an interface, joysticks and buttons for less than $100+, but I will do some more thorough searching today. I'm a bit hesitant about soldering, but I bet I could do it...

IF looking to do it on the cheap EBAY does have some button\encoder setups that work fine - for Example for This set with 2 joysticks\20 buttons and 2 ZD type Gamepad encoders (show up as a gamepad rather than a keyboard but work fine for MAME and most emulators ) for $63. Figure it would be a good fit for now, doesn't have the limited simultaneous input limitation of the X-arcade unit, and can always be upgraded later if you find you want higher end (more expensive) parts later ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arcade-DIY-Kit-Parts-2x-USB-Encoder-To-PC-2x-Joystick-20x-Buttons-For-MAME-/201034334608?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ece948190 )

[owkenobi]

IF looking to do it on the cheap EBAY does have some button\encoder setups that work fine - for Example for This set with 2 joysticks\20 buttons and 2 ZD type Gamepad encoders (show up as a gamepad rather than a keyboard but work fine for MAME and most emulators ) for $63. Figure it would be a good fit for now, doesn't have the limited simultaneous input limitation of the X-arcade unit, and can always be upgraded later if you find you want higher end (more expensive) parts later ( http://www.ebay.com/itm/Arcade-DIY-Kit-Parts-2x-USB-Encoder-To-PC-2x-Joystick-20x-Buttons-For-MAME-/201034334608?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item2ece948190 )

Heck that would be perfect. I guess I was leery for ordering straight from ebay, but if those are decent quality to start that would be great. Thanks for the link!

[Well Fed Games]

Cool cabinet! I think it will serve you well. And yeah, not much info out there about it. Good luck with the project! A free cab is a great start!

[JDFan]

Heck that would be perfect. I guess I was leery for ordering straight from ebay, but if those are decent quality to start that would be great. Thanks for the link!

I've used the encoder for a single player bartop and they work fine - just have limited number of inputs (total of 16 per board - normally 1 joystick and 12 buttons) which is why this has 2 of them so there are enough inputs for 2 player setups.

THe buttons I have not used but there is a build thread here ( http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,139439.0.html ) that used them so you may want to ask him how they work together as this is the set he purchased and used in his build so he should have some info on them for you.

[SavannahLion]

Contact this guy. According to the website, he has something to do with the company and the previous addresses seem to be in the ballpark
 http://www.advancedbackgroundchecks.com/d/timothy-hapy/129940267

Seems like something that would be sold the same way as a Dynamo. That would explain the multi-board blurbage on the back.

[Slippyblade]

I have no problems with X-Arcade parts, I really hate the encoder though.  It wires weirdly, the interface is funky, it's just bleh.  Buttons/Joysticks/Trackball on the other hand are just fine.

Though, to be honest, you'd be just as easily served hitting Groovy Game Gear, Paradise Arcade, or Ultimarc and putting your own bundle together.  If you stick with the less expensive parts (no RGB buttons) you'll be fine.  Not to mention all three of those vendors have active presence on this forum if you need help.

[owkenobi]

Thanks for the replies everyone! What a great community.

I ordered the ebay setup JDFan linked to. Now, of course, I must be patient as it ships from china. But in the meantime I'll try and get the monitor mounted and MAME set up on my PC with some kind of front end.

With 2 GB of RAM and a Core Duo processor, should I run an older version? I hear the newer ones are slower; admitted I'm most familiar w/ versions based off of 0.37, as I was a GP2x user for quite awhile. I'm not really planning on running anything newer than Marvel v Capcom.

[Automark]

If you have the money, buy something decent. I ordered once this http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Brand-New-Zero-Delay-Arcade-USB-Encoder-PC-to-Joystick-for-MAME-HAPP-Fight-Stick-Controls/941345749.html
and it is crap, big time/. It worked for 2 days, and then it shorted, and had to through it away. Never happened with an ipac. Happy my pc is still working.

[JDFan]

The newer versions of MAME while slightly more demanding on the CPU also have many improvements overall, so I'd suggest trying a newer version (seems 0.149 is one of the most readily available) though the file size for a complete romset download has also exploded (0.149 romset is about 42.6GB not including any supporting art files and chds etc.) so be prepared for a fairly lengthy download. Figure you can always go back to an earlier version if you find you have problems but for the games you are using the 2GB of ram and Core Duo CPU should be fine.

If you have the money, buy something decent. I ordered once this http://www.aliexpress.com/item/Brand-New-Zero-Delay-Arcade-USB-Encoder-PC-to-Joystick-for-MAME-HAPP-Fight-Stick-Controls/941345749.html
and it is crap, big time/. It worked for 2 days, and then it shorted, and had to through it away. Never happened with an ipac. Happy my pc is still working.

I've been using the same encoder for 2+ years and had no problems at all with it and normally electronics will not short out after a couple days if installed properly (either they will not work at all if manufactured incorrectly or shorting out would require some contact with an outside source or static charge)

[DeLuSioNal29]

If you ordered the set on the link, you ordered Japanese parts.  As such, they need to be mounted a bit differently than US joys and buttons.  You need a 30mm bit for the buttons, as they will not fit in the standard holes (Japanese buttons are slightly bigger).  The joystick is meant for a metal CP so is shorter than US joysticks, so you need to mount it on top (if you want it flush mounted you need to route the joystick mount space from the top.).  You can mount it underneath, but it will be a nub.  HOWEVER, you can mount it from underneath if you use 1/2" wood, which is thinner.

Good Luck!

DeLuSioNaL29

[JDFan]

If you ordered the set on the link, you ordered Japanese parts.  As such, they need to be mounted a bit differently than US joys and buttons.  You need a 30mm bit for the buttons, as they will not fit in the standard holes (Japanese buttons are slightly bigger).  The joystick is meant for a metal CP so is shorter than US joysticks, so you need to mount it on top (if you want it flush mounted you need to route the joystick mount space from the top.).  You can mount it underneath, but it will be a nub.  HOWEVER, you can mount it from underneath if you use 1/2" wood, which is thinner.

Good Luck!

DeLuSioNaL29

^this as is mentioned in Laminars thread that I linked earlier :

I used a 1-1/8" Forstner bit to drill for the buttons but it ended up not being big enough - I had to use a 1-1/4". They are snug in the hole, but will pop out easily if pushed from below, as they're friction fit.

so 30mm or 1 1/4 inch bit should work fine for the button holes. And the joys are fine undermounted on 1\2 inch panels (I used the same on a mini bartop (pic below) build recently built with 1\2inch MDF and it sits about 1 inch from the CP panel to the bottom of the balltop or 2 1\4 inches to the top of the balltop mounted that way.

[BadMouth]

With 2 GB of RAM and a Core Duo processor, should I run an older version? I hear the newer ones are slower; admitted I'm most familiar w/ versions based off of 0.37, as I was a GP2x user for quite awhile. I'm not really planning on running anything newer than Marvel v Capcom.

1.3Ghz Core Duo?  3.6Ghz Core Duo?
Processor speed is everything in emulation.

.37 is very old.  It's more for people running old Pentium 3's.
You'll be missing out on a LOT of good games by using it.
Using a newer version isn't an issue if you have a processor made in the last five years.

[owkenobi]

1.3Ghz Core Duo?  3.6Ghz Core Duo?
Processor speed is everything in emulation.

.37 is very old.  It's more for people running old Pentium 3's.
You'll be missing out on a LOT of good games by using it.
Using a newer version isn't an issue if you have a processor made in the last five years.

It's a 2.0 GHz Core Duo. Looks like I'll need to get an updated version of mame.

[owkenobi]

If you ordered the set on the link, you ordered Japanese parts.  As such, they need to be mounted a bit differently than US joys and buttons.  You need a 30mm bit for the buttons, as they will not fit in the standard holes (Japanese buttons are slightly bigger).  The joystick is meant for a metal CP so is shorter than US joysticks, so you need to mount it on top (if you want it flush mounted you need to route the joystick mount space from the top.).  You can mount it underneath, but it will be a nub.  HOWEVER, you can mount it from underneath if you use 1/2" wood, which is thinner.

Good Luck!

DeLuSioNaL29

^this as is mentioned in Laminars thread that I linked earlier :

I used a 1-1/8" Forstner bit to drill for the buttons but it ended up not being big enough - I had to use a 1-1/4". They are snug in the hole, but will pop out easily if pushed from below, as they're friction fit.

so 30mm or 1 1/4 inch bit should work fine for the button holes. And the joys are fine undermounted on 1\2 inch panels (I used the same on a mini bartop (pic below) build recently built with 1\2inch MDF and it sits about 1 inch from the CP panel to the bottom of the balltop or 2 1\4 inches to the top of the balltop mounted that way.

I didn't realize that when I ordered, but that shouldn't be a problem. I THINK i have a 1 1/4" drill but but I will need to check the garage. Since there's no real control panel I can build the top piece out of whatever material...if I top mounted them, I assum I could put vinyl over the top anyway, right?

[PL1]

Check out this post for a shallow top-mount method that works great and makes it easy to put a smooth finish on top.

The specific base shown is the Import Flight Stick from Paradise which is prety much the same size/dimensions as the LS-32/Zippyy.






Scott

[DarakuTenshi]

I thought it was interesting that you have the serenity prayer on the cab... Especially considering some of the things you said about not building the cab when/how you wanted to because of things beyond your control.

[BadMouth]

1.3Ghz Core Duo?  3.6Ghz Core Duo?
Processor speed is everything in emulation.

.37 is very old.  It's more for people running old Pentium 3's.
You'll be missing out on a LOT of good games by using it.
Using a newer version isn't an issue if you have a processor made in the last five years.

It's a 2.0 GHz Core Duo. Looks like I'll need to get an updated version of mame.

Not real great, but not horrible.  A lot of people on here run much less, but they're usually only focused on the 80's classics.
Give a new version of MAME a try.  The 2D games through the mid 90's should all run fine.
If they don't, revert to version .106
That version is just before the video engine was rewritten and became more demanding.
A lot of people run it and it's fairly easy to find the romset for it.

[owkenobi]

I thought it was interesting that you have the serenity prayer on the cab... Especially considering some of the things you said about not building the cab when/how you wanted to because of things beyond your control.

Ha, that was on there when I got it, it's covering the coin door spot. If you notice it ends with "and the wisdom to hide the bodies of those who touched my video games."

So I won't be keeping that, not really my style.

[owkenobi]

Well, things are getting closer and closer to 100%. I've attached another terrible photo, before I got the plexi covering the monitor on, and I also see a couple of the player 2 buttons are popped out.

I'm certainly not building some of the gorgeous cabs you'll find on here; I just want to play some games.



Since my last update, I've actually gotten a better (free! well, in exchange for some work) computer. The controls are wired and installed, and I've got an older version (v.106) of MAME running.

You'll see I've got 6 buttons on the control panel (and things are fairly tight!) and then on the front I have two more buttons on each side, which I've set as coin and start.

The new machine is a 2.2 GHz Core 2 Duo, w/ 2.5 GB of RAM. I assume that's probably fast enough to the run the latest version of MAME, but then I'll need to get some new roms.

So far, my goals of a cab on a budget are succeeding-the only cash outlay I've had is the controls (~$60). Everything else I got for free or I have traded for. Which is awesome. (for example: the blue on the control panel is actually blue duck tape. It works!)

Current issues:
1) The controls I have are configured as game controllers through windows; but no matter what i do, what I have in the second player position MAME treats as player 1 when both are connected. Anything I'm missing there? Both show up as 'Generic USB Joystick' so I've tried to set the preferred in the Windows control panel, thinking maybe that was where it was set.

2) Selecting games via joystick in MAME doesn't seem to work. I have checked the checkbox for that. I am looking at setting up mala, but I haven't gotten any farther than reading some docs on that. Is there an option in MAME to exit the game back to the list with a button combo?

After these are all sorted, all I have left is to get the rest of the games I'm looking for, change the windows boot logo to a 'Winners dont use drugs' image, and get mame to auto-start on boot.

[paigeoliver]

Actually I'll bet the stamp in the back is because they were selling most of their cabinets to operators who were using bootleg boards.

Generic cabinets before the Jamma era always had bootleg boards in them.