Mains inlet IEC

[s_busby_uk]

I'm eyeing up this to put in the back of my cab:

http://www.maplin.co.uk/p/10a-fused-snap-in-iec-chassis-plug-with-switch-n94cz

Bearing in mind I'm a complete amateur:
a) is it fine from an electrical/safety point of view (I'm using a fairly predictable first-time MAME setup - PC, LCD etc);
b) what should I be wary of when buying it (ie, wires I might need to buy to help in setting it up etc);
c) how do I mount it to the cabinet (ie, do I just route a hole to fit or is there some other mounting bit these things usually come with?)?

Thanks!

[Generic Eric]

Search your local hardware store for something like this.  Then you don't have to worry about cutting the end off.

You should buy some heat shrink tubing also to fit over the leads. 

When I looked in my local store, I didn't find any receptacle.  But its supposed to "snap in" To what, I don't know.  Sometimes, they don't even come with fuses. Let alone mounts.


Someone posted a nice picture of the one they did.  Hopefully someone will post it again.

[wp34]

Here is a picture of mine.

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,136690.msg1414899.html#msg1414899

These guys cover everything you would need to know about wiring one up.   

http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,135461.msg1399293.html#msg1399293.htmll

[Sarver Systems]

The wiki pic was posted by me. Its here on the forums. A quick search should turn it up.

Mine did not come with a fuse, and its not a normal 3AG or whatever they're called fuse.

[Sarver Systems]

BINGO! See above.

[BadMouth]

Just want to add that after doing a good job wiring up my inlet, I had serious issues caused by using a random old PC cable that was laying around.
The connectors on the old cable were either corroded or worn out to the point of not making solid contact.
The added resistance caused the connection to heat up and melt the end of the cable.  It took me a while to track down the burning smell because there was no smoke and the damage wasn't visible from either side of the EIC inlet.

This is not a normal occurrence, but the lesson is that you're better off spending the money on a new cable and knowing everything is solid rather than using a 20yo pc cable from the parts bin.  I redid everything exactly the same, but with a new cable and have had zero issues.

[Generic Eric]

Found it
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,138190.msg1428028.html#msg1428028

[s_busby_uk]

Thanks everyone!

I recall seeing that mounting plate already, but I don't have access to any metalwork so I need something a bit more immediate - shame as it looks real nice.

Had been eyeing up the inlet with the red switch but I was going to have to wait 10 days to receive one and I'm impatient! May keep looking for quicker shops...

[s_busby_uk]

One last quick q - I'd need to use my router to make the hole for this, right? Like, there's no easier method?

Also, may get one of these:

http://www.sinolec.co.uk/en/emi-filters/432-emi-filter-fuse-switch-10a.html

[wp34]

I don't know if it is easier but here's how I did mine.  I found a forstner bit that was the diameter as the width of my opening.  I made a couple of holes and then cleaned out the waste with a chisel. 

[s_busby_uk]

Thanks! I'm feeling a bit more confident with my jigsawing after doing my cp today so may try that way carefully.

[wp34]

Jigsaw should be fine for this.  Doesn't need to be pretty.

One tip I would recommend would be to make shallow cuts and do test fits.  There was much less "shoulder" on the power outlet than I expected.  You don't want your hole to be too big.

[PL1]

Another method to consider is chain-drlling -- small holes close together in a line.

That way there is less material to chisel away than the Forstner method shown above.


Scott

[s_busby_uk]

http://www.amazon.co.uk/IEC320-Inlet-Module-Switch-Socket/dp/B0050HH70E/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1399980777&sr=8-1&keywords=iec+inlet

Can anyone who bought the IEC inlet with the red switch being talked about here (linked above) confirm if the dimensions of the back section are 4.7 x 2.7cm (as listed in the Amazon link)? My one is coming form China so won't arrive for a while and I'd like to get the hole made so I can start painting soon if possible.

Thanks!

[Sarver Systems]

I can help you with that, but I am at work right now. I'll get you some pics and measurements when I get home.

[s_busby_uk]

That'd be amazing, thanks!

[Generic Eric]

Search your local hardware store for something like this.  Then you don't have to worry about cutting the end off.

You should buy some heat shrink tubing also to fit over the leads. 

When I looked in my local store, I didn't find any receptacle.  But its supposed to "snap in" To what, I don't know.  Sometimes, they don't even come with fuses. Let alone mounts.


Someone posted a nice picture of the one they did.  Hopefully someone will post it again.

The link didn't post.

http://www.amazon.com/Leviton-660-515CV-0CV-Connector-Grounded-Yellow/dp/B000FPCHUQ/ref=pd_cp_hi_3

[Sarver Systems]

The dimensions for the cutout are:

1 1/16" W
1 7/8" H

The holes are 1 9/16" apart. I would wait to drill the holes after it has been installed though.

[s_busby_uk]

You are a star Sarver Systems, many thanks.