Using PCBs to wire a control panel

[surface tension]

I thought I would share some improvements we've been working on for our coffee table control panels recently. I'm sure this isn't what the majority of people will want to do with their control panel, but we've done all this to make things easier for ourselves. Someone may take something away from it.
   
The biggest chore about building one of our systems is the wiring of the control panel - so we decided to do something about it. These panels took around 4 hours to wire which is now reduced to around 1. Here's the back of the existing panel, with plenty of wires taking plenty of time.

   
Here is the complete panel showing both PCBs in place for 1UP and 2UP. There are still some wires to be connected, but these can attached to the PCBs before the PCBs are soldered to the switches. The credit, start, volume etc. buttons are connected to small PCBs, which are then connected to the larger boards by ribbon cable.

   
The PCBs are identical (to save on cost), so you effectively have a master (with the MiniPAC) and a slave.



   
The MiniPAC is connected to the under side of the master board, pushed into matching headers.
      

Probably the most awkward part of it now, but the joystick wiring can be done up-front and soldered to the board. JLWs win over JLFs for their simple 4/8 way switching ability.


The trackball loom can also be soldered onto the PCB before final installation. Sourcing the headers for these wasn't so straight-forward, but they are ready to go if we find them for a sensible price!


The spinner connects straight on out of the box.

   
Our systems are for home use, so it will be a while before any of the switches go. But if they do, they are pretty simple to unsolder with a little experience. We have also included a jumper for easy re-programming of the MiniPAC firmware if required.
   

Whilst we were re-designing the back of the control panel, we also made some changes to the front and how the controls were held. Using captive studs and threads, the front of the panel is now smooth and bolt-free. This also makes the assembly quicker and much less of a chore.

[Slippyblade]

Here is the complete panel showing both PCBs in place for 1UP and 2UP

Did you mean to attach some pics?

[surface tension]

Here is the complete panel showing both PCBs in place for 1UP and 2UP

Did you mean to attach some pics?

I was having a bit of trouble there. Should be visible now 

[pbj]

Ultimarc totally has something like this coming out just as soon as you start selling your product.

 

[RandyT]

Great for mass produced, specific layout panels, but I'd have to be concerned as to what happens when a switch goes bad, needs cleaned, etc...  Switches can sometimes be finicky things (as can anything which is mass produced by the tens of thousands), and longevity isn't always based on how hard they are being used.  Is it really better than custom, color coded wiring harnesses, with all of the wires pre-made to the correct length?

Definitely clean looking, though.

[surface tension]

Yes that was the only issue. Even though not as simple as disconnecting and popping the switch out, the solder pads are generous so an iron and sucker and they are free.

Pros and cons really, so we'll see how we get on with this batch of boards.

[yotsuya]

Ultimarc totally has something like this coming out just as soon as you start selling your product.

 

 

[Generic Eric]

Wicked header!

/sportsball


That looks neat.  Do you intend to do the same thing with an AVR or with KADE? 

[yotsuya]

I will say I think this is pretty neat in how it works with your company's control panels/product. That probably makes things work a lot easier. You're using Goldleaf buttons, right?

[surface tension]

Thanks guys.

We use the MiniPAC on our panels, so have based it around that. I can't see us repeating with other products.

Yeah, it makes things a lot easier! No, those are OBSF-30.

[Xiaou2]

I put this idea out for Pinball, and someone took it and ran...

  However..  for buttons, this isnt a great idea.

 Micros go bad.  In the arcade, I was replacing them left and right.

 Please spill stuff.   How does your board handle a soda spill?   Hows cleanup on that going to go?

 1)  De-solder every button... 
 2)  Toss Ipacs out, as they are now toasted.
 3)  Possibly toss custom board out, if theres anything besides traces on it.
 4)  Take apart all buttons and clean + clean spring.
 5)  Re-assemble all buttons
 6)  Order new ipacs  $$$
 7)  Solder ever part, and every button back in place
 8 )  Take revenge with dull butterknife, on drink spiller and person who created said PCB...   


 Its probably far more effective to have someone create custom harnesses en-mass.

[pbj]

I put this idea out for Pinball, and someone took it and ran...

You put that idea out in the 70s?  Because that's when it started being done.....

Its probably far more effective to have someone create custom harnesses en-mass.

It looks neat, but you'd need a substantial market of people that wanted the same exact control panel.  Maybe you could pitch the idea to the X-arcade people?

[Xiaou2]

You put that idea out in the 70s?  Because that's when it started being done.....

 The idea was to make the entire playfield a giant PCB... rather than multiple individuals connected by 2 miles of spaghetti.

It looks neat, but you'd need a substantial market of people that wanted the same exact control panel.  Maybe you could pitch the idea to the X-arcade people?

 Besides the major flaws listed,  I personally cant stand curved layouts.   Not to mention, a personal CP will want customization.
Thats completely a non option, even in the future, if the board is soldered together..  as most wont want to attempt to unsolder that mess, and rebuild when they outgrow their 'beginner panels'.

[surface tension]

If there's a huge soda spill on the panel, then the only extra thing to do would be to unsolder the switches. Minor in the grand scheme of your scenario. The PCB has no active components. If the MiniPAC does fry, then it would have fried regardless.

[ark_ader]

Ultimarc totally has something like this coming out just as soon as you start selling your product.

 

 

[keilmillerjr]

I would not be a happy camper if I bought a cab like this and wanted to replace a control. Looks cool. Practicality seems foolish.

If you wanted to make use the pcb idea, make the button pins slide into a female socket on the pcb. Just my opinion. Regardless, you sir have some skill.

[Slippyblade]

I would not be a happy camper if I bought a cab like this and wanted to replace a control. Looks cool. Practicality seems foolish.

The mass majority of folks don't repair things.  Look around at nearly any consumer product any more, they are disposable.  Engineered to be cheap to manufacture and nearly impossible to repair.  These are the people who were the target market for things like...

[surface tension]

It's a few months since I created this thread, but after reading the comments I went on the hunt for some PCB-mount crimps to make the changing over of switches a lot easier. I finally found some and after a test run, we're now shipping this way.

The backs of the individual buttons can be popped down, then the PCB levered off.

[TopJimmyCooks]

Very nice implementation.  Can I ask what general volume of coffee tables you are selling?

[surface tension]

Thanks! We don't sell huge amounts, but enough to keep a few people very busy.