New Product: SWYM: Star Wars Yoke Mount

[jasonbar]

Howdy-

Interest check on new product: SWYM: Star Wars Yoke Mount. Lets you clamp your Star Wars yoke to your control panel (or any desk or table).

Pitches the yoke up at 50 degrees from mounting surface. Original Atari Star Wars arcade game put it at 45 degrees from horizontal. My cabinet's control panel slopes down 10 degrees, putting the yoke at 40 degrees. Clamp it to a desk/table & it's at 50 degrees.

SWYM consists of 2 parts:
1 - Sheet metal box, waterjet, bent, & welded. 4 flush PEM nuts support a RAM Controls USB interface PCB.
2 - Sheet metal waterjet back panel cover snaps in without fasteners.


SWYM design goal was to minimize outer volume, resulting in less material, lower cost, lighter weight, easier storage, & a form that mimics the size/style of the yoke. Therefore, assembly is not for the weak of heart or the impatient. Ease of assembly was compromised in favor of the aforementioned benefits--fortunately, once it's assembled, it's assembled!

I've got some quotes on fabrication: material supply, cutting, bending, & welding, but not finishing ( Rev A prototype powder-coating courtesy of http://carbonraceparts.com/. ). The price drops dramatically as quantities increase, so I'm hesitant to mention prices yet, but expect a USD 3-digit price, with a "1" in the hundreds place.


I want to gauge interest on purchasing this product. I can't get into the yoke/PCB/hardware business. I am offering just the metal mount parts. You supply the yoke, the USB cables, the PCB, the bar clamp, & all the fasteners. My top assembly drawing bill of materials will detail out the hardware as used on my setup, for easy purchase, but you may choose to use alternate fasteners, feet, clamp, cabling, etc.

I know that this is extremely niche, especially given the scarcity of the RAM Controls PCB. I'm open to being commissioned to modify this design somewhat for you, or to a more generic design that may have a wider audience.


Thank you,
-Jason

PS--If you like what you see, hit me up if you wish to hire me for some design & fabrication work.

[jasonbar]

More pics

[jasonbar]

More more pics

[PL1]

Perhaps the mounts should be spaced for a KADESTICK PCB instead of the SCAM controls PCB.   


Scott

[jasonbar]

Fine idea. I went with what I had on hand for my setup, & I had bought a RAM Controls PCB a while back. I'm not au courant on the Kadestick PCB. Is that the standard interface these days?

If so, I'm happy to throw that option in--it looks to be much smaller than the RAM Controls PCB & the whole SWYM design might even be tightened up a little bit more, as I had to scooch the PCB mount back enough so the big fat Molex connector pair where the adapter harness plugs into the RAM PCB wouldn't interfere with the yoke large gear.

So, that's an easy change & can be the new standard if people chime in & there's demand for a run.

Thanks,
-Jason

[Xiaou2]

Im all for innovative solutions...

  But I think there this is a very tough project for a sales run.   

 The problems, besides the possibly limited supply of yoke owners.. that need such a setup:

  - Control panel height, angle, and mounting lip..  etc..  may be completely different than your setup.

 Also, safety and durability concerns:

 1) When a youngster decides to try to hang their full weight from it
 2) Is running from a game of chase... and smashes into it from the side
 3) Possible marring damages to the CP.
 4) Can that single clamp take abusive strain well?  Ive had similar cheap HF clamps like that Shear off the top section.
 5) Can their CP take the abuse from an angered / frusterated adult, if they swing or shake the yoke?

  If I were to design something like this... it would probably either be a hardened metal shaft system..  with 4 locking holes that you drill into the front of the CP.  A release mechanism could be mounted under the CP.

 Another way could be to use two pieces of square pipe..  that side and lock under the CP, using special heavy duty brackets.  Spring lock in place, with a release mechanism lever or button.  Line the edges (and connectors) with rubber strapping & or grommets, for ability to absorb extreme forces, without shearing or damaging the CP.

 Spring loaded trap-door in the front of the CP, could also hide the input hole..  yet still allow for artwork / paint.
In this scenario, the square shaft tube could be slid into the front of the CP, thru the spring door...  And into an internal slide-lock mechanism, thats bolted into the CPs internal bottom.  With enough length, and strong enough pipe.. you could stand on the thing, and it would still be structurally invincible.

[Generic Eric]

What did I say folks?  Year of Star Wars!    Don't have a cp to use this on.  It's cool to see folks trying things.   

[PL1]

Fine idea. I went with what I had on hand for my setup, & I had bought a RAM Controls PCB a while back. I'm not au courant on the Kadestick PCB. Is that the standard interface these days?

If so, I'm happy to throw that option in--it looks to be much smaller than the RAM Controls PCB & the whole SWYM design might even be tightened up a little bit more, as I had to scooch the PCB mount back enough so the big fat Molex connector pair where the adapter harness plugs into the RAM PCB wouldn't interfere with the yoke large gear.

So, that's an easy change & can be the new standard if people chime in & there's demand for a run.

Thanks,
-Jason

It might be easier to design your mount with a blank piece of plastic for mounting whatever interface people want to use.

In addition to the KADESTICK and SCAM Controls interfaces, other interface options include USB Sidewinder hack, U-HID, U-HID Nano, A-Pac, and the new I-Pac Ultimate I/O.

**Insert standard disclaimer here for not maiming for MAME** -- Twistywrist has the best prices for the molex connector and pins to connect to the yoke harness without hacking it.


Scott

[Xiaou2]

FYI - Molex connectors are not really meant to be plugged in and out frequently.   They are difficult to do so.. and they are not durable... often having pins bend, and or soldier joints crack, or the wires fall out (when not soldiered into the pins).

 Its also unlikely that people are going to be putting these back into original machines.  Being that many of them have been destroyed or converted, due to the vector monitor crapping out.

 So IMO, hack away.   In fact, you may even want to rewire the entire yoke... due to possible wire sheath cracking, and possible internal wire breakage.  At very minimum, contacts should be cleaned in the handle switches.

 And I also agree, that a universal controller mount, is something that would have more sale potential.  However, that does present a lot more challenge in design... as well as increased costs...   and I think that if you can build an entire cabinet..  is it that difficult to make a mount for your own CP?

 Maybe I overestimate the builders out there...?

[Generic Eric]

Fine idea. I went with what I had on hand for my setup, & I had bought a RAM Controls PCB a while back. I'm not au courant on the Kadestick PCB. Is that the standard interface these days?

If so, I'm happy to throw that option in--it looks to be much smaller than the RAM Controls PCB & the whole SWYM design might even be tightened up a ulittle bit more, as I had to scooch the PCB mount back enough so the big fat Molex connector pair where the adapter harness plugs into the RAM PCB wouldn't interfere with the yoke large gear.

So, that's an easy change & can be the new standard if people chime in & there's demand for a run.

Thanks,
-Jason

It might be easier to design your mount with a blank piece of plastic for mounting whatever interface people want to use.

In addition to the KADESTICK and SCAM Controls interfaces, other interface options include USB Sidewinder hack, U-HID, U-HID Nano, A-Pac, and the new I-Pac Ultimate I/O.

**Insert standard disclaimer here for not maiming for MAME** -- Twistywrist has the best prices for the molex connector and pins to connect to the yoke harness without hacking it.


Scott

I second the idea of the universal mount for the pcb

[PL1]

FYI - Molex connectors are not really meant to be plugged in and out frequently.   They are difficult to do so.. and they are not durable... often having pins bend, and or soldier joints crack, or the wires fall out (when not soldiered into the pins).

Didn't recommend it for frequent plugging and un-plugging -- just reminded people to avoid needlessly hacking the harness when the connector and pins are available for <$2.30 + shipping.

So IMO, hack away.   In fact, you may even want to rewire the entire yoke... due to possible wire sheath cracking, and possible internal wire breakage.

WRONG!!!!   

Atari used special wire with a higher strand count (more flexible) than commonly-available wire.

If it ain't verifiably broke, don't "fix" it for the same reason that you shouldn't throw away a good CRT to "upgrade" a cab to an LCD/LED monitor. 

If Atari was still making the harnesses, I would agree with your "hack away" sentiment, but there aren't many NOS harnesses still floating around. (5 or 6 on KLOV in the last few years IIRC)

Unhacked harnesses are very desirable to collectors trying to restore/repair an original SW yoke.

Needlessly hacking the harness removes value and options if/when someone decides to sell their yoke or use it on a dedicated SW/ESB/Jedi machine while they rebuild that machine's yoke.


Scott

[jasonbar]

Good points all around, guys. I made this for myself, to my specs, for my needs, & if there are any like-minded folks in the same tiny boat as I, then let me know. I have realistically low expectations for sales on this! :]

Not intended for arcade use. Just for respectful mature adult use, clamped on to any desk/table/CP (you can use the 12" bar clamp version & clamp to pretty much anything that has a bottom face) only when used, not left on, without needing to modify your CP/table at all. Just pretend it's a clamp-on PC steering wheel--same deal.

Thanks,
-Jason

[Generic Eric]

I think the visible sides are waiting for some of this treatment.

[Malenko]

its a niche product in a nicher market.  Id advocate the same premise for mounting Logitech G27s and the like.  If you use the idea, no compensation required

[Xiaou2]

WRONG!!!!   

Atari used special wire with a higher strand count (more flexible) than commonly-available wire.

 Are you saying its impossible that the special wire - which is not really as special as you think..  is never capable of breakage after 20+ years?

 Lets just say this...   I used to Manage an Arcade.   One of the games I repaired frequently, was a  Road Riot 4wd.
Its some what similar to the Yoke design.  Its wires were original.   They were thin, and broke every other week.

 I finally got tired of re-repairing them..   and decided to use thicker gauge speaker wire.  I tore out the old wire, and re-wired the entire thing.   Worked like a charm..  and no wires had broke, in the remaining 2yrs I was at that location.

 The wheels spring system was a mess however, and there was constant maintenance on the spring holder clips, from metal grinding wear.   It quickly became my least favorite game, due to the poor mechanical design.  Atari was usually very good about making durable controls.. but this wasnt one of those times.

If it ain't verifiably broke, don't "fix" it for the same reason that you shouldn't throw away a good CRT to "upgrade" a cab to an LCD/LED monitor.

 Um..  Where did I say anything about tearing out a  CRT / VECTOR  ?   I cant stand LCDs for arcade displays of classics.
This is a wiring harness.  Its nothing special.   And unlike some crazy pinball harness, or unique game harness that would be very difficult to rewire & figure out...  this is none of that.  Its basic switches and pots..  with plenty of manuals and diagrams to easily figure out the wire order - should you somehow get a fresh supply of Vector monitors... and other related parts.

If Atari was still making the harnesses, I would agree with your "hack away" sentiment, but there aren't many NOS harnesses still floating around. (5 or 6 on KLOV in the last few years IIRC)

Unhacked harnesses are very desirable to collectors trying to restore/repair an original SW yoke.

Needlessly hacking the harness removes value and options if/when someone decides to sell their yoke or use it on a dedicated SW/ESB/Jedi machine while they rebuild that machine's yoke.

 Ok, so I could have said..   Re-wire and sell that harness.   Maybe get 2$  off of ebay for it, after 3 yrs of re-posting.
But I understand your point.   Im a collector Btw.   IMO, there are things that are worth saving.. and maintain and command high dollar value... and then there are things which have no real value to most non-OCD people...

[PL1]

Didn't think I had to point this out, Steve, but the corollary to, "if it ain't broke, don't fix it" is "if it is broke, fix it."   

Are you saying its impossible that the special wire - which is not really as special as you think..  is never capable of breakage after 20+ years?

Obviously not, hence "if it ain't broke, don't 'fix' it" instead of "it'll never break, so you'll never need to fix it." 

We both know how to select the proper wire for this application, but picture some noob trying to wire a yoke with solid-core doorbell wire. 

Figured I'd leave some hints to nudge them in the right direction if they misunderstood your advice and hacked up a perfectly good harness.   

Um..  Where did I say anything about tearing out a  CRT / VECTOR  ?   I cant stand LCDs for arcade displays of classics.

The point is that if the original hardware is working (not broken), you shouldn't replace it with an inferior substitute -- it appears that we both agree on this concept.   

Ok, so I could have said..   Re-wire and sell that harness.   Maybe get 2$  off of ebay for it, after 3 yrs of re-posting.
But I understand your point.   Im a collector Btw.   IMO, there are things that are worth saving.. and maintain and command high dollar value... and then there are things which have no real value to most non-OCD people...

My point was (and still is) that having a functioning, unhacked harness on your yoke increases resale value and usage options over the same yoke with the Molex chopped off.


Scott

[pbj]

Lets just say this...   I used to Manage an Arcade.

And he woulda gone pro if it weren't for that bum knee.

[jasonbar]

GONE--THANKS!!!

I have for sale my first prototype. I call this SWYM-10, because it kicks the yoke up at 10 degrees from the mounting surface. Its shape mirrors the yoke housing.

Unfortunately, my control panel slopes down at 10 degrees, so this put the yoke steering axis horizontal to the floor, rather than at the 45-degree angle on the original Star Wars game. This didn't work for me--not ergonomic, difficult to get full +Y travel.

It works a bit better when clamped to a horizontal table/desk surface, especially if you sit low. Or, it could be clamped to a surface that's angled "up" to give you a comfortable angle.

I paid $150 + PEMs for the fab, spray painted it, built it up, tested it, & shelved it.

I'll sell it for $100 shipped to the US, or $120 shipped abroad. This includes only the welded/painted box & the painted back snap-in cover. You need to supply the yoke, the feet, the PCB, the clamp, the cables, the fasteners, etc. I'll give you guidance on what I used.

Thanks,
-Jason

[Generic Eric]

I wonder if you could diagram a larger tilt mechanism as the base and then mount this or other controllers in it. 

[jasonbar]

Capital idea. I already explored it, though.

I was so happy w/ the compactness & aesthetics of this 10-degree version that, when I knew I needed to kick up the angle to make it comfortable, I spent a while racking my brain, trying to figure out how to simply kick it up with a tilt mount.

I didn't come up with anything that was simple, robust, cost effective, & elegant, especially since I wanted to design in some adjustability to make it universal (or at least useful for a variety of angles).

Thanks,
-Jason

[lamprey]

First I just want to say, that is very cool and I think it's awesome you are sharing your idea with the community.

Maybe you should start a poll to gauge interest in this?

I kind of assumed (perhaps wrongly) that people in this hobby that really want a yoke would have it built into their CP or have swappable CPs. Not to project, but that's my plan.

Again I think it's a cool idea and if you can sell a few to people and make a couple of bucks, then why not, eh? 

[telengard]

Can't believe I missed this!  I need something like this for my modular panel.      

[jasonbar]

Howdy-

Sorry you missed this earlier. The SWYM-10 prototype did find a good home.

PM me if you want to discuss me making you a new one or sharing with you the source CAD & manufacturing files with you (if you have access to sheet metal, laser cutter/waterjet, press brake, welder, powder coater, press, etc.).

Thanks,
-Jason

PS--nice modular cabinet--I skimmed your site very quickly & I didn't see any pics showing how you store those tons of panel parts, or how you deal with MAME/Windows addressing various controllers so that their IDs stick.

PPS--nice username!

[telengard]

Howdy-

Sorry you missed this earlier. The SWYM-10 prototype did find a good home.

PM me if you want to discuss me making you a new one or sharing with you the source CAD & manufacturing files with you (if you have access to sheet metal, laser cutter/waterjet, press brake, welder, powder coater, press, etc.).

Thanks,
-Jason

PS--nice modular cabinet--I skimmed your site very quickly & I didn't see any pics showing how you store those tons of panel parts, or how you deal with MAME/Windows addressing various controllers so that their IDs stick.

PPS--nice username!

Hi Jason,

I would be interested as I need to come up with a way to hookup my SW yoke (and a paperboy yoke, and at some point a pole position wheel) to my cabinet, ideally it would be something like you've created that I can attach to one of my modules.  I store everything in a big cabinet with drawers (if you scroll to the bottom of the control panel page you can see an example).

I run Linux on my cabinet now, but even with Windows, I've had no issues really with swapping devices as everything goes through the ipac/optipac.

[jasonbar]

PM Sent!

[evh347]

duplicate post

[evh347]

Good points all around, guys. I made this for myself, to my specs, for my needs, & if there are any like-minded folks in the same tiny boat as I, then let me know. I have realistically low expectations for sales on this! :]

Not intended for arcade use. Just for respectful mature adult use, clamped on to any desk/table/CP (you can use the 12" bar clamp version & clamp to pretty much anything that has a bottom face) only when used, not left on, without needing to modify your CP/table at all. Just pretend it's a clamp-on PC steering wheel--same deal.

Thanks,
-Jason

I purchased an Alan-1 Star Wars yoke reproduction and I’m in need of a way to mount to my Mame cabinet.

PM sent

[Malenko]

Congrats to you for bumping a 4 year old thread to announce you sent a private message.

[Toonout]

This thread is really old but if your still into making these things Glen’s retro show created a Star Wars yoke that myself and 250 other people bought on Kickstarter and is now selling on amazon. It doesn’t come with a mount. There’s a c3d printable option from Wagner’s tech talk but it looks like you could make something way better and metal. There’s no gear shaft hanging out the back so it could be a smaller cleaner mount than what’s going on above.

[negative1]

already discussed here:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,160736.0.html

later
-1

[jasonbar]

That's pretty slick. I hadn't heard of it--I haven't been around here much lately.

If I were to make a production run of my SWYM mounts, I'm pretty sure they'd cost more than the GRS Flight Yoke itself..

Thanks,
-Jason

This thread is really old but if your still into making these things Glen’s retro show created a Star Wars yoke that myself and 250 other people bought on Kickstarter and is now selling on amazon. It doesn’t come with a mount. There’s a c3d printable option from Wagner’s tech talk but it looks like you could make something way better and metal. There’s no gear shaft hanging out the back so it could be a smaller cleaner mount than what’s going on above.