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Author Topic: Star Wars Dual Strike Sidewinder hack, fire buttons not working?  (Read 1880 times)

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Teamatomics

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OK, since Ram Controls unfortunately folded and no longer has USB adapters, after years of Mame hiatus, I decided to try the Dual Strike Sidewinder hack. I've got the "up" and "down" motions working well, but none of the fire buttons (trigger or thumb) are working. Normally, I would go after a ground issue, but I wired it all according to this schematic: http://arcadecontrols.com/hosted/yoke/yoke_files/image045.jpg

There "is" an actual green wire in the star wars cab, which I connected to "ground" as per the schematic. Then, I took the two black "common" wires from each and wired them into "common", again, all according to the schematic. I assume this is correct, yes?

Finally, as we know, there's the software issue with SideWinder right? I mean, I installed several different SideWinder installation discs to see if I could somehow configure the controls, but it just doesn't work, and yet, if you play Star Wars using the sidewinder, the fire buttons work fine.
So now, this project hinges entirely on getting these trigger buttons to work, so I really appreciate any input and experiences you guys have had concerning this possible issue. I haven't really gone into many of the Mame settings, is there something withing Mame perhaps that I've failed to set properly?

Thanks again :)

Craig 

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Re: Star Wars Dual Strike Sidewinder hack, fire buttons not working?
« Reply #1 on: February 11, 2014, 01:33:54 pm »
Here's a pinout for the SW Yoke.



All 4 switch grounds should all be connected to pin 11.

Both potentiometer grounds should be connected to pin 10.

If you can't get the dual-strike hack to work, the KADESTICK 2-axis firmware works great with the SW Yoke. (link in sig)


Scott

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Re: Star Wars Dual Strike Sidewinder hack, fire buttons not working?
« Reply #2 on: February 11, 2014, 06:13:49 pm »
Ok, thanks PL1, it looks like the grounds from the trigger switches are both tied together, so yeah, my config should be ok. It must be a software/mame interface thing I guess? Unless there's something wired up wrong in the schematic I posted? I'll double check the connections on that black ground, since the green frame ground also seems ok.