Looks like you've done your homework, so I'm not sure how much I can add.
By instantly I mean the circuit is either completely closed or completely open--no partial connection.
Digital microswitches are by definition either open or closed - there can be no partial connection. This is true for any digital switch, including leaf microswitches. You could theoretically get into a situation where the switch alternated between open and closed, (by moving the joystick within a certain narrow range), but that's about it, and not usually a problem. For standard switches, the variables are - Activation Force - How hard you have to press the switch, how quickly it returns; Free height - How high the button is above the panel when the switch is not pressed; and Total Travel - how far you can press the switch before it activates.
These might not be the correct technical terms, just good descriptive ones.
In buttons, I'm looking for:
Convex buttons are going to pretty much leave you with either Happ Competitions or Sanwa's.
3. Button is low to the panel, i.e. it doesn't extend too high above the panel--more flat.
4. Button is fully depressed at the point that the microswitch is activated and there is little depression space.
6. Good feedback--button springs back up fast.
These three will be determined by the particular microswitch used in the button, and they are not always the same, even from the same manufacturer. You could experiment with different switches to find the one you want.
The Sanwas seem to do the size right at least, but don't they all use vertical microswitches (bad)? Also, what size Sanwa button would you use for action buttons. Some of their buttons seem too big.
Actually, I think it will come down to color for these - Sanwa's generally are available in Slime green, pink, and baby blues, Happ's are the more standard colors.
In joysticks, I'm looking for:
1. Microswitches.
Basically any modern switch except the Wico Leaf NOS or repro's.
2. Squared stick motion.
Avoid Happ Supers. Happ Comp's are good, as would probably be any of the restricted 4/8-way sticks - Omni-Stik (
www.groovygamegear.com), J-Stick, T-Stick, or E-Stick -
www.ultimarc.com3. The stick should be fully extended at the point that the switch is activated.
I don't understand this. This would give you a large dead spot in the middle of the stick (no activation), and only activation when the stick is hard-over. If you are really asking about short travel and high-precision, then I will again refer to the Omni-Stik (aka Suzo 500). See OSCAR's draft review of them here:
http://www.oscarcontrols.com/suzo500/suzo500.rtf and RandyT and OSCAR's comments on them in this thread:
http://www.arcadecontrols.org/yabbse/index.php?board=1;action=display;threadid=11929;start=0 It sounds like OSCAR got a stick with incorrect microswitches that behaved like you are asking about and hated it for reasons above. Another reason to buy from
www.groovygamegear.com is that I am pretty sure RandyT personally verifies the type of microswitches that each Omni-Stik comes with.
The Happ Competitions are their best square motion stick (they beat their Ultimates I believe),
True.
but do they stop moving as soon as the microswitch is activated?
No, and not a good idea, as above.
(btw, are the Ultimarc J-Sticks completely interchangeable with Sanwa's sticks in terms of characteristics)
You might E-mail Andy Warne about this. I know the T-Stick's have an added shim compared to the comparable Industrias Lorenzo stick, but not sure what, if anything, was changed on the J-Sticks, perhaps only the bat handle.
Good luck!!!