Nameless Mame

[BeeryGaz]

OK, having read this forum for ages and with a desire to learn some woodworking skills I decided to build a cabinet using OND's plans.  So far it's beena lot of frustration, a fair number of router gouges, a large amount of MDF dust and many, many trips to the hardware store and back.

Here's where I'm at.  i've managed to cut out all of the panels, built the base and and now ready to start assembly.  Then I got a bit stuck.

It strikes me it will be easier to prime and do the first coat of pain while in component form.  It will also be easier to route the T-moulding channels before assembly too.  But my T-moulding is going to take weeks to come from the USA to the bottom bit of Africa.  I'm eager to continue with the things I can but routing around a built cab seems like a recipe for disaster.

Also, I'm bound to need to make some running tweaks to the panels given my dodgy woodworking skills, so priming and painting now, when I'm going to need to sand and cut a little here and there later seems counter-intuitive too.  Advice?

Secondly, I don't have a choice but to go for a LCD flat panel - I'm thinking 23" as that's afforadble and available.  Do I mount it horizontal or vertical?  And do I cover part of the screen with the bezel or leave it and try and get some artwork on there?  What's the current thinking?

Lastly, I see trackballls on a lot of CPs - otehr than centipede, I'm not a fan of many TB games.  Does it serve another purpose in any other games that I'm missing?  I'm thinking my CP needs to be neat and ismple, 2 joysticks (top switchable to 4/8 way) and six buttons each (although most games I know only use a max of 4 apart from MK/SF right?) coin/1p/2p and 3 admin buttons.  That's the lot.

I'd love any guidance or advice form this fantastic community.

[EMDB]

Welcome to the forum and a really enjoyable but addictive hobby...

6 buttons will do but some people use 7 (4 below, 3 on top )to also cover the NeoGeo layout (4 in a row). Don't forget some admin buttons (coin, start, Esc, P1/P2).



To support multiple types of games mount your monitor horizontal.

I would do the priming and painting after assembly. Only than you can fill and sand the screw holes.

 

Routing for t-molding is way easier before assembly.

[jdbailey1206]

Routing for t-molding is way easier before assembly.

It took me finishing two cabs before I figured this out.   

[Drnick]

You do really want to do the slot before you put together. as for the priming and painting, I would do a dry fit of the components (No Glue just clamps and screws) It then allows you to make any cuts and changes etc you want to make. Strip her back to raw components, slot cut, prime paint and finally glue and screw. Are you having screws from the outside? or are all screws hidden from inside?  On my bartop I hid all the screws on the inside and then covered in some kind of leather effect vinyl, Looks ok to me. 

[BeeryGaz]

Thanks for the advice guys.  I will definitely hold off screwing and gluing until my T-molding arrives and I can route the channel.  I'm probably going to screw through from the outside - it feels more secure and will be a lot easier for a newbie.  I have neither the skill nor the tools for biscuit joints.  I am a little worried about the additional work of filling & sanding adding the potential for blemishes and visible fill-marks on the final product, but I guess if other have achieved it with care and plenty of elbow-grease then so can I.

How do I avoid having my joystick mounting screws showing through the top of the CP?

[PL1]

How do I avoid having my joystick mounting screws showing through the top of the CP?

As mentioned in the new FAQ, Tee nuts or threaded inserts.   


Scott

[BeeryGaz]

How do I avoid having my joystick mounting screws showing through the top of the CP?

As mentioned in the new FAQ, Tee nuts or threaded inserts.   


Scott

Thanks Scott - I'm off to look for some inserts.

I had a bad day building the CP today.  OND's plans use a slanted CP (back higher than the front) which looks cool, but trying to get a 5 deg angle on the edges of the front and back to handle the slope was a nightmare!

Second issue:

I'm going to bottom-mount my joysticks into a rebate to raise them up a little, I also think it will offer more stability to the sticks over time.  However, I'm not sure which bits of the stick go on top of the panel and which bits go underneath.  It would seem I can't get away with a flush rebate with a simple hole for the shaft in the middle, I'm going to have to cut a large countersink-shaped dent to accommodate the  "thingy"



Here's a stick broken down (there's also a little circlip to keep it all together (not pictured):



3- Clearly the rubber centering washer and that fits into the recess in the base
6 - Clearly a dust washer and that goes on the top side of the panel.
4 & 5 have me a bit baffled though. 
    The widest part of 4 slots into the rebate in the base
    5 slides right up against the black bottom of the knob

Do I need to cut a countersink for 4 & 5 into the underside of my CP to get the base to sit flush in its rebate on the underside of the CP?

I ran into anther issue trying to mount my joystick today. 

[PL1]

I'm off to look for some inserts.

Links to GGG and Ultimarc inserts are in the copyright statement under the related pics in the FAQ.   


Scott

[emphatic]

I've never seen those sticks before, what make is it?

[BeeryGaz]

I've never seen those sticks before, what make is it?

It just saya "Universal" on it - that's all I can find by way of markings.  I must say the dome-shaped bit that covers the rubber centrering washer makes installation a PITA.  It protrudes about 5mm from the base, and I've rebated my CP by about 6mm to accept the base.  In 16mm MDF, that leaves very little material left.  I'd also a bugger to shape the wood perfectly to accept the "dome" shape.  But it's all I have to wrk with, so I guess some trial and error is in my future :-)