Running LED from U-HID? (LED basics)

[edgeofblade]

CURRENT QUESTION: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,137214.msg1415957.html#msg1415957

Note: sorry this thread is rambling between topics. I'm still trying to assimilate a lot of unfamiliar information. The link above will bring you to my current dilemma.

The question. Can I connect multiple ipac 4s?

The explanation. I'm looking at wiring up an array of led buttons as an art piece for a gamer bar. It needs to be fully interactive and programmable, 100 buttons in a 10x10 array. After digging through Ultimarc for a week, I decided to use addressable LEDs and 2 ipac4 boards. Is there any inherent reason this will not work? Do you have a better idea?

[lcmgadgets]

Sorry I can't answer your q, but I just wanted to say--sounds way cool! B sure to post pics when you're done! & I'm sure more here would love to c some documentation on the process. Good luck! 

[meyer980]

I can't say for sure as I haven't done it, but I don't see why you couldn't. Each terminal on the ipac can be programmed to act as any key on a keyboard so as long as there's 100 keys on a keyboard, it should work. That, plus you could program certain buttons to act like key combinations if you did run short.

[edgeofblade]

That's what I was thinking. I could leave one mapped to joystick inputs and the other lowercase and uppercase letters. That should make 100 and leave a few control buttons for other functions.

I'll take lots of pictures and report back when this project is under way.

[05SRT4]

subscribed

I wanna see this thing in action when it complete!

[BadMouth]

Sure, you can use multiple ipacs.

Much would depend on the software though.  Whether it could utilize every key on a keyboard or discern between upper and lower case.
Some software allows the use of multiple keyboards, so it wouldn't be an issue with those.

Are you writing the software or will this utilize something that's already out there?

[severdhed]

Ipac inputs are assigned by key, not characters. Upper case and lower case letters are the same key...you should be able to do it, most keyboards have 104 keys, I don't think the ipac can use the Windows keys, so that leaves you with 102 usable inputs

[PL1]

Another option to consider is that Degenatrons (Jon) has written a KADE 10x10 matrix encoder firmware mentioned here.

PROS:
Lower cost. (1 KADE + 100 diodes vs. 2 IPac4's)
Relatively simple wiring.

CONS:
Limited number of buttons can be pushed at one time.
One tester here mentioned that it appeared to run a bit slow -- not sure if Jon has updated the firmware to speed up scanning yet.   


Scott

[pbj]

Hack an old keyboard.

[Malenko]

The question. Can I connect multiple ipac 4s?

The explanation. I'm looking at wiring up an array of led buttons as an art piece for a gamer bar. It needs to be fully interactive and programmable, 100 buttons in a 10x10 array. After digging through Ultimarc for a week, I decided to use addressable LEDs and 2 ipac4 boards. Is there any inherent reason this will not work? Do you have a better idea?

Did Xuoche design you a control panel?

[lilshawn]

Did Xuoche design you a control panel?

heeeeerrre we go...

frankenpanel...it begins...again

[Malenko]

naw I was just funnin

[lilshawn]

naw I was just funnin

as long as it's not this...

http://www.wickedretarded.com/~crapmame/6.html

[edgeofblade]

Sure, you can use multiple ipacs.

Much would depend on the software though.  Whether it could utilize every key on a keyboard or discern between upper and lower case.
Some software allows the use of multiple keyboards, so it wouldn't be an issue with those.

Are you writing the software or will this utilize something that's already out there?

Fully custom application. Won't even have a traditional screen. Just the array. I intend to program casual games into it, like color coded minesweeper, lights out, reaction time, life game, and anything else my twisted mind comes up with.

[yotsuya]

naw I was just funnin

as long as it's not this...

http://www.wickedretarded.com/~crapmame/6.html

How come no one has cme up with a good nut rest?

[edgeofblade]

So, bit of a baby in the dark situation here. I expect I'll be doing a lot of this trial and error because there was something I just plain missed, so I'll be asking for help frequently here, if that isn't too much of an annoyance.

I'm experimenting with the RGB led button kit from ultimarc with a U-HID nano (selected because I thought it would be the most flexible). I plugged the Nano in first, got the on-board led to light, assuming that means all good. I couldn't find LED wire key for that button kit, so I assumed yellow was ground and RGB was their respective colors.Then I connected the assembled button's LED leads to the U-HID, configured the nano pins for the NUM, SCROLL, and CAPS leds, just for an initial test.  I wired it accordingly to the U-HID, tried to program the profile, which said it failed to program. (I was playing with U-HID usb button this morning too and that failure seemed to be a false negative, so I reasoned this could be the case as well.) Then I noticed (not immediately) that the U-HID config was not recognizing the board. I further found that the on-board LED was no longer lighting when I plugged it in.

Tell me, did I fry my U-HID? What else am I missing?

[TopJimmyCooks]

i just had a uhid nano issue and I need to send it back.  I got a new one and it worked perfectly.  hardware or firmware was somehow damaged.  would not reupload firmware. 

[edgeofblade]

I think you nailed it. I tried to update firmware and I had problems after that. Thanks.

Update: worked with Andy, got the driver reinstalled and reinserted the firmware he provided. Board posts in utility and led lights on connection. All good.

[PL1]

I couldn't find LED wire key for that button kit, so I assumed yellow was ground and RGB was their respective colors.

Close, but yellow is the operating voltage and RGB are the grounds for the colors since most arcade-hobbyist vendors sell the common anode configuration LEDs and most LED controllers control the ground side of the circuit.




Scott

[edgeofblade]

I couldn't find LED wire key for that button kit, so I assumed yellow was ground and RGB was their respective colors.

Close, but yellow is the operating voltage and RGB are the grounds for the colors since most arcade-hobbyist vendors sell the common anode configuration LEDs and most LED controllers control the ground side of the circuit.




Scott

So, is a common anode led designed to work with U-Hid? Is common anode considered not standard?

The U-HID will drive standard LEDs only.

LEDs are connected between the U-HID pin and ground.

[PL1]

So, is a common anode led designed to work with U-Hid? Is common anode considered not standard?

The U-HID is NOT what you need for your application, based on these quotes from the U-HID LED page.

Up to 16 connections can be defined as PC-Controlled LEDs.

That's only 5 RGB LEDs + 1 leftover channel -- you'd need 17 U-HIDs (vs. 5 PacLED64s) to handle 100 RGB LEDs.  

The limit of 16 LEDs applies to the board to stay within USB specificatons on current draw (500mA).

The UHID has no connector allowing you to supplement the USB power.  (BTW, it would be limited to 100mA if it was plugged into an un-powered hub.  )

You can run 12v LEDs off a 5v supply like this and only draw a fraction of the current, but . . .

LEDs are connected between the U-HID pin and ground.

. . . the polarity is opposite of the RGB LEDs that are sold by Ultimarc/GGG/Paradise Arcade.

IMHO dedicated LED controllers are the only logical choice for lighting this project due to the quantity of channels, current draw, and polarity of easily-installable RGB LED assemblies. (Not sure if you can run 5 PacLEDs on one system, though. )

Common anode is standard for the LED controllers commonly used in the arcade building community. (LED-Wiz, PacLED64, etc.)

Any RGB LEDs you get from Ultimarc, Groovy Game Gear, or Paradise Arcade (arcade-hobbyist vendors) will be common anode.

If you look at Radio Shack, DigiKey, or e-Bay (non arcade-hobbyist vendors) you might end up with either.


Scott

[edgeofblade]

...
IMHO dedicated LED controllers are the only logical choice for lighting this project due to the quantity of channels, current draw, and polarity of easily-installable RGB LED assemblies. (Not sure if you can run 5 PacLEDs on one system, though. )

Common anode is standard for the LED controllers commonly used in the arcade building community. (LED-Wiz, PacLED64, etc.)

Any RGB LEDs you get from Ultimarc, Groovy Game Gear, or Paradise Arcade (arcade-hobbyist vendors) will be common anode.

If you look at Radio Shack, DigiKey, or e-Bay (non arcade-hobbyist vendors) you might end up with either.


Scott

Thanks for the feedback. I wasn't seriously considering running off of U-HID for this project. This was more of an opportunity to get several parts and start experimenting and learning the ropes. If I can't power these LEDs with this board, that's more like a relatively cheap lesson learned, as opposed to a fortune sunk in the wrong parts.

Instead of running with five PacLED64s, I'm considering two strands of fifty WS2811 addressable LEDs and two NanoLED boards. With the LEDs, it would still cost less than two of the PacLED64 boards and be a hell of a lot less trouble to wire. Might have to modify the buttons, but I'm confident I can get that to work.

Please, keep poking holes. I love having lots of cooks in the kitchen, especially when I'm new and assimilating a lot of info. :-)

EDIT: Just poked a hole of my own! Those NanoLED controllers drive 60 channels for 20 RGBs each, not 60 (I rounded down to 50 for simple parity.) Still substantially cheaper to take that route.

[PL1]

Not sure if you can address 5 Nano-LED boards on one system based on this pic -- you should ask Andy.



Also look into the Kaimana from Paradise Arcade Shop -- not sure about the specs on it, though.   




Scott

[pbj]

Turns out these guys are rattling the tin cup in Houston, trying to raise funds for their "nerd culture" bar.

 

https://www.indiegogo.com/projects/warlocks-games-and-beer