How is this parts list?

[fantoboy]

I'm putting together a parts list for a bartop.  Can you tell me if there's any better alternatives to some of these in either quality or price?  I have Amazon Prime, so I'd get free shipping on Amazon.  Thanks in advance for any advice

I plan on using Sanwa JLF sticks and Seimitsu buttons since I like Street Fighter. Is there a preferred place to purchase these? Focusattack.com ?

Asus Evo monitor (low lag time, recommended for Street Fighter)
http://www.amazon.com/Asus-VS238H-P-23-Inch-Full-HD-LED-Lit/dp/B005BZNEVQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381036749&sr=8-1&keywords=ASUS+VH236H+Black+23%22

Smart strip
http://www.amazon.com/Smart-Energy-Saving-Autoswitching-Technology/dp/B000P1QJXQ/ref=sr_1_2?ie=UTF8&qid=1381100006&sr=8-2&keywords=Smart+Strip+Power+Strip

Mini-Pac
http://www.ultimarc.com/minipac.html

Lepai amp
http://www.amazon.com/Version-Upgraded-LP-2020A-Amplifier-Shipping/dp/B00C2P61FO/ref=sr_1_3?ie=UTF8&qid=1381054514&sr=8-3&keywords=lepai+amp

4" speakers- I just picked something that had decent reviews and is fairly chep:
http://www.amazon.com/Pyle-PL42BL-180-Watt-Two-Way-Speakers/dp/B000230LBI/ref=sr_1_16?s=car&ie=UTF8&qid=1381053960&sr=1-16&keywords=3%22+speakers

Power socket
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00511QVVK/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M2T1_SC_dp_1

Marquee lights (Is this too many for a bartop?  Can I use half of these and save the other half for another cabinet?)
http://groovygamegear.com/webstore/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=307


I already have an old pc laying around, hopefully I'll be able to fit a full ATX in there

[kiwasabi]

Looks good. Those are the speakers and amp people on here recommended to me as well.

I used the Monster smart strip which is about $5 cheaper than the one you linked:
http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B004H1PV4S/ref=oh_details_o04_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Also, I got this Viewsonic monitor when it was on sale for $140 on Amazon (it's currently $150). I'm not sure how it compares to the Asus though in terms of latency.

http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00D601UC8/ref=oh_details_o01_s00_i00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

Mini-Pac is fairly expensive for $70, you might check out the Groovygamegear alternatives.

[fantoboy]

Thanks.  I saw that power strip, but I'm concerned with space issues within a bartop.  That one looks twice as wide

[rCadeGaming]

Focus Attack is a good place to buy.  Can I ask why you're going with Seimitsu buttons?

If you're into fighting games, I wouldn't buy anything without a confirmed low input lag.  The "EVO" monitor will obviously a good choice.  ASUS has also made a newer model of that which is another ms faster:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DWITHI/?tag=dislag-20

Input lag specs here:

http://www.displaylag.com/display-database/

I'm typing on it right now, just came in the mail two days ago.  I got a low lag monitor for the PC in case I want to plug my PS3 into it or something, and it was cheap.  It looks decent.  There are some minor color issues, especially with some uneven backlighting, everything is a tiny bit brighter on far left side.  I saw it right away on a test pattern while calibrating, and I notice it in Google Chrome sometimes, but I doubt anyone would notice it during gameplay.  I haven't tried any games on it yet, but I can fire some up to see if you're interested.

[fantoboy]

It seemed like Seimitsu was getting a lot of love on SRK, do you recommend Sanwa?
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/54101/seimitsu-vs-sanwa-buttons

I'll look into that monitor, thanks for the info.  Weird that the listed dimensions are so different.  I'm using a Haruman flat-pack.  Gotta see if the newer measurements would fit

[rCadeGaming]

I was just wondering.  Idk, I've tried both and the Seimitsu's didn't impress me that much, so I stuck with Sanwa.  Their microswitches seemed to actuate more smoothly.  TBH, I put a lot more thought into selecting joysticks than buttons though.

[BobA]

The LED lights for the marquee are fine for a bartop as the marquee area is fairly large on most of them.  If you find you have too much light you can always cut back but it depends on the placement to get rid of shadows from speakers etc.

[fantoboy]

I was just wondering.  Idk, I've tried both and the Seimitsu's didn't impress me that much, so I stuck with Sanwa.  Their microswitches seemed to actuate more smoothly.  TBH, I put a lot more thought into selecting joysticks than buttons though.

I haven't put much thought into it either, I was just trusting the SRK users.  I do have a TE stick with Sanwa parts, and I can't complain

 

The LED lights for the marquee are fine for a bartop as the marquee area is fairly large on most of them.  If you find you have too much light you can always cut back but it depends on the placement to get rid of shadows from speakers etc.

Yeah, I'll probably get it and see if only half the lights are sufficient.  I plan on building another bartop so maybe I can spread the light into both since it comes in pieces

[rCadeGaming]

I think the measurements between the two monitors differ because:

1.  The measurements here make no sense:

http://www.amazon.com/Asus-VS238H-P-23-Inch-Full-HD-LED-Lit/dp/B005BZNEVQ/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1381036749&sr=8-1&keywords=ASUS+VH236H+Black+23%22

2.  The measurements here look like they include the stand:

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B008DWITHI/?tag=dislag-20

Taking a measuring tape to mine (VS239H-P), the measurements without the stand are 21.7" wide x 14.1" tall x 1.5" thick.

I doubt the 238 is actually much different, if at all, just judging by the pictures.  You could probably get accurate measurements from the manuals to confirm.

[fantoboy]

Thanks for the measurements.  Looks like it is exactly the same according to this post:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130522.msg1342278.html#msg1342278


Does anyone have experience using this kind of socket:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00511QVVK/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M2T1_SC_dp_1

Is it self defeating to have a power switch and a smart strip?  Or can I wire the PC to be controlled by the switch?  Or maybe I'm better off having a seperate external button for the PC's power, and get something like this without the power switch:
http://www.amazon.com/Interpower-8301213-Disconnects-Socket-Rating/dp/B00917Z96S/ref=sr_1_2?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1381118280&sr=1-2&keywords=Inlet+Male+Power+Socket

[PL1]

Does anyone have experience using this kind of socket:
http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00511QVVK/ref=pe_175190_21431760_M2T1_SC_dp_1

Looks like the same style that Rablack97 used for his bartop and Maximus used on his MVC Revolution build here. (He was posting as Griffindodd at that time.)





It hooks up like this.  NL is the neon lamp in the switch.  Pin 2 is ground. (not shown)


IIRC, the unit does not come with fuses, so be sure to order them, too.
- 5mm x 20mm size
- Slow blow
- 125v or 250v -- you can pick fuses that are over-volt (higher voltage needed to arc) and/or under-amp (they will blow more often) compared to the listed rating.

NOTE: Don't get that backward or it'll arc (under-volt fuse) or carry too much current (over-amp fuse) which will fry the circuit instead of protecting it.   


Scott

[fantoboy]

My main concern is do I need the power switch?  Wouldn't turning off the power to a smart strip defeat the purpose of a smart strip?  I'm guessing I should leave the main power switch on and have a separate button for the pc power so the smart strip can turn off everything else and turn everything on when I power on the pc? Because I figure just shutting off the power to the pc isn't a great idea, I'd want to do a shutdown or sleep.

[PL1]

I figured you would want the power inlet you linked for two reasons: fuse protection if something shorts out and removable power cord.

You definitely don't want to use the power inlet to kill power without shutting down Windows first.

Whether you need the smart strip depends on your desired power on/off sequence.
-----
If you don't use the smart strip, you can use the inlet switch to apply main power to several outlets (monitor, computer, etc.), and press a button to turn the computer power supply on.

To power-down this setup, press the computer power button to tell the computer to shut down or some front end programs can send a shutdown command when you exit the program.

Once the shutdown is complete, switch off the inlet power to shut off the monitor.
-----

The smart strip can remove the two steps in the process involving the inlet switch.

------

Your call on whether it's worth the space and spending the money on the smart strip to avoid the inconvenience of waiting a few extra seconds for the system to power down before you cut off the inlet power.

Personally, I'd be more inclined to use a smart strip in a full-size cab where reaching a main inlet switch on the back would be far more difficult than reaching the same switch on a bartop build.  YMMV.


Scott

[fantoboy]

Ok, that makes sense.  So I'll need another power button somewhere on the cabinet

[PL1]

Lots of people choose to use a regular arcade pushbutton on the back or top for that.


Scott

[fantoboy]

Apparently the VH236H is the only EVO approved monitor, and neither of the above linked monitors are recommended by SRK.  The VH236H is also no longer in production and not available on Newegg or Amazon.  I found a thread on SRK that says the VS239H is definitely not as good

http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/8074100#Comment_8074100

edit: the VS238H-P is using the same hardware as the VH236H minus the speakers.  So the VS238h-P has a better lag time
http://forums.shoryuken.com/discussion/comment/7573380#Comment_7573380

[rCadeGaming]

That guy in your first link is a little full of it.  He is not comparing apples to apples.  Whether or not the method used by the site he linked to is sound is not the point.  The point is that to compare monitors, you must compare input lag ratings which are determined using the same method.  I can't find a rating for either the VH236 or the VS238 at the site he linked to.

I did however, find ratings for all three here, all tested with the same method (a very sound method at that):

http://www.displaylag.com/display-database/

VH236: 10ms
VS238: 11ms
VS239: 10ms

The evidence in the second link is a broken link.