Help Needed!

[Knoc]

Yesterday I went and bought a Daytone Usa Limited Edition arcade game. I tried it out before I brought it home and it worked and played great. I carefully put it on a trailer and strapped it down and wrapped it up very well. When I got home and got it into the house, I went to plug it in and the top light came on but that was it. I have owned a few arcade games but have never done any work on any. I am wondering where you guys with more  experiance would start on trying to trouble shoot the problem and get this thing going? I did check the visable fuses through the back and they looked fine. Any help would be greatly appriciated!

[zanna5910]

While I'm no expert in restores, i would visually look over everything and make sure nothing is loose or disconnected, then try to determine where you are losing the electrical connection, that will probably tell you where the problem is once you determine that.

[Knoc]

After looking around in it more, there is a little box on the floor that I opened up and found a 3amp 250v blown fuse in. So I went and got some to replace it, and it blew two right away. I looked around for spliced wires or wires that may have become disconnected but dont see anything. Ugh..

[HanoiBoi]

Couldn't hurt to reach out to your seller.  There's a chance he is familiar with the issue and could offer assistance or advice.

[Knoc]

The guy I bought it from was a hillbilly who had it in the kitchen of his trailer. He told me it "came with the place" when he bought it, so Im gonna go with my gut and think probably not. 

[ark_ader]

The guy I bought it from was a hillbilly who had it in the kitchen of his trailer. He told me it "came with the place" when he bought it, so Im gonna go with my gut and think probably not. 

 

[BadMouth]

Well to point out the obvious, it's blowing a fuse after being moved, so something is probably touching that isn't supposed to.

I have a tendency to throw spare parts and things that aren't being used in the base of these cabs.
One of the prior owners may have done the same. 
I'd start with the power supply area in the front part of the base.  Look for loose metal parts, maybe a washer that could have bounced onto exposed parts of the power distribution section.  If nothing there, I'd pull the dashboard and look at the force feedback system.

Did you unbolt the front section from the base when moving it?

[Knoc]

Ok so today I had a repair tech come out and tell me that my power supply was bad. He told me it was a simple install, and to just call the company and order a replacement. The company of the power supply is Happ Controls. I called them and told them the model number that is on the supply which is 80-0030-00-A  They didnt have anything with that model number. The lady dropped the A off the model number and it came up with some sort of wire. When I looked up online for a replacement by googling Dayton Usa power supply, it had recommended a 80-0015-00. That one looks a little different than the one I have (Mine doesnt have the cooling fins in the back and my switches are set up a little different) which concerns me.
Is the one suggested the right one? If not, can you point me in the right direction on which one I need? I prefer just a drop in and plug in. Here is a pic of my power supply and the tag on it.

[jdbailey1206]

This came up on Suzo Happs website.  The Daytona USA link is a little down the page.  Click on the part number.  Hope it helps.

Here is the link from that page.

[Knoc]

Mine only has 2 plugs, that one has 3. Im thinking thats for the dual unit with 2 seats. Mines a single seat.

[opt2not]

Daytone Usa Limited Edition, I don't think I've ever seen one in the wild.

Does it look like this one?

[Knoc]

Yup except mines black on the seat and dash and a bright orange on the sides of the cabinent. Also has a big gold badge that says limited edition, otherwise its just like that.

[jdbailey1206]

Found this guy from dis website.  This one says it belongs in your machine but looks questionable.  And this website has an awesome search engine.  I didn't know your exact specs so I didn't delve to far into this website. 

Again, good luck. 

[TopJimmyCooks]

also check in with divemaster here on the forum, he sells a lot of happ stuff in his store and might be able to get you where you need to be.

[Knoc]

I called the guys from Happ yesterday and they were very helpful. They had no records of ever making a model number that I had. I even sent them the pictures. I sent them pics of the unit as well and wasnt sure where the power supply came from, or why it was in there but told me it needed the 0074 one instead and guranteed it to work in it. So I got one in the mail. Cant wait to try it out!
I appriciate all your guys help. Ill keep ya posted once i get the power supply.

[PL1]

You ordered direct from Happ??

Hope you didn't get "Happ-slapped" with excessive shipping charges.

They have quite a reputation for doing that, but supposedly have gotten better recently by allowing flat rate boxes instead of not telling you what the shipping will cost until after they pack it up and ship it off.

If the shipping charges were reasonable, was there a particular shipping option you selected during checkout, or did the customer service representative help with that?


Scott

[SavannahLion]

@OP Don't take my suggestion.

Now that he's found his part....

Is it just me or wouldn't a reasonably decent ATX supply with a modified harness or adapter work equally as well? Seems to me the specs on a decent PC PSU go way above and beyond the specs I'm seeing there and, except for the soft power circuitry, would be more than adequate for the job? After all, the PCB inside is just looking for 12v and 5v. Not like those weird ---steaming pile of meadow muffin--- boards that want crazy amounts of -5v or some other obscure voltage and/or amperage hardly anyone makes anymore.

Or am I missing something here?

[Knoc]

I got usps priority for $15.53. Figured thats around the ballpark in price I was expecting. I ordered it right on the phone with the guy who called me back. He was very helpful. All together my total came to around $75, so Im happy. He sent me a confirmation the same day too.

[Knoc]

Its one thing after another... I got my new power supply in the mail yesterday and found out it has a 12 pin plug on it when I need a 9 pin.. I was promised this would be a direct drop in fit, plug in and play. I sent him the pictures of the original supply since they "never heard of that model". 
Does anyone know if its possible to splice in the old plug on the new power supply? Or how a person would go about it? That is my last resort of course and am hoping they can send me out the correct one, but Im gettin antzy and tired of waiting for stuff in the mail.. 

[PL1]

Disclaimer: I haven't looked up the manuals -- just talking theory here.

In the pic you posted earlier there was a 3 pin connector in addition to the 9 pin -- does the 12 pin combine those two into one connector?

Compare and map the pinouts of the new and old power supplies.

You may be able to extract the pins from the new power supply 12 pin connector shell and insert them into the proper positions of the old power supply 9 and 3 pin connector shells. 


Scott

[Knoc]

No they wont fit. The 12 pin seems to be a little wider spaced than the 9 pin.  On the new power supply there are 3 plugs (a 12, a 3 and a 4) and the original has 2 (a 9 and a 3). The guy told me on the phone that one of the plugs on the power supply I wouldnt need. I had a arcade tech come out and look at it to diagnose the problem originally so tonight I gave him a call to see what he had to say. He said he could modify the plug (but needed a wiring skematic that I dont have. All the ones I found werent detailed enough) but thinks I talked to someone who didnt know what they were talking about and it shouldnt be a problem to get a direct drop in fit, plug and play supply. I asked him what it would roughly cost to convert the plug and he quoted me $100... 

[matt4949]

let's see some pics of the plugs. $100 sounds ridiculous for rewiring a connector. Gotta be a pinout somewhere for this.

[matt4949]

Ok so today I had a repair tech come out and tell me that my power supply was bad. He told me it was a simple install, and to just call the company and order a replacement. The company of the power supply is Happ Controls. I called them and told them the model number that is on the supply which is 80-0030-00-A  They didnt have anything with that model number. The lady dropped the A off the model number and it came up with some sort of wire. When I looked up online for a replacement by googling Dayton Usa power supply, it had recommended a 80-0015-00. That one looks a little different than the one I have (Mine doesnt have the cooling fins in the back and my switches are set up a little different) which concerns me.
Is the one suggested the right one? If not, can you point me in the right direction on which one I need? I prefer just a drop in and plug in. Here is a pic of my power supply and the tag on it.

Hey I found the pinout, It's right here on your old power supply.

[Knoc]

Good eye! I didnt even see that. Do you know where I could find a pin out of the 80-0074-00? Also what about the extra wires? Some of them get doubled up?

[PL1]

If the new unit has the same pinout listing label (pic on Happ site looks like it does), you can cut the necessary wires near the connector on the new supply and cut all the wires on the old supply near the supply.

Use a 12 position Euro-style terminal strip (rated to 30A) to join the wires from the new supply to the wires of the old supply connectors.




Scott

EDIT: If the power supply label doesn't list a pinout, the game manual for one of the other games listed on the Happ site as using that power supply may have the needed info.

[Knoc]

Not sure Im getting what you are saying..

[matt4949]

post a picture of the new power supply pinout (the yellow chart on top) and a picture of the old power supply pinout (the yellow chart on the back) and one of us will talk you through this.

[PL1]

Sorry for the delay.

This should help explain what I meant in my earlier post.

Match 5v wires to 5v wires, 12v to 12v, etc.

Cut the wires you need to splice on the new PSU (red, blue, black) and all the wires on the old PSU on the dotted lines.

Leave the unused wires (green) on the new PSU uncut so they are less likely to short out on something.


Scott

[Knoc]

That would be awesome!! Here's the new one.






Ok that makes sense, but what about on the new one theres a -12v but I dont see one on the old supply? 

[PL1]

Ok that makes sense, but what about on the new one theres a -12v but I dont see one on the old supply? 

Leave it alone like the green wire in my diagram -- same for the -5v wire on pin 9.

It won't hurt the power supply if an output voltage isn't connected.

If the old 3 pin connector was originally connected to anything, connect the line (black), ground (green), and neutral (white) wires from the new to the old 3 pin.

Connect one +5v wire from the new PSU to each red wire on the old 9 pin.

Connect one +12v wire from the new PSU to each blue wire on the old 9 pin.

Connect one ground wire from the new PSU to each black wire on the old 9 pin.

*** Just remember that the black wire on the 3 pin is 120 VAC line power, but the black wire on the 9 pin is ground (DC) -- standard AC wiring colors vs. standard DC wiring colors. ***

BTW, the connector on the new PSU looks like the same style used in the Star Wars Yoke controller, but different gender -- I think the pin numbering will be like this with pin 1 starting on the double flat end, but double check to be sure.



In the pic you posted showing the connector, the upper right should be pin 1, lower right should be pin 3.


Scott

[Knoc]

Thanks PL1 for the direct help!! I did the modifications to make the power supply work and she runs like a champ! Thanks again!!!