GoldLeaf Pushbuttons?

[kuehnau]

Okay so when ordering more buttons and stuff for my controls, I accidentally ordered GoldLeaf Pushbuttons, instead of what I normally order. These are a little confusing because they only have TWO prongs instead of three and the tabs are smaller then the ones on the cherry micro switches.

Can these be used with my other generic buttons and how do I know which tab is the ground?

[Minwah]

Yes you can use with your other pushbuttons - it doesn't matter which contact you use as ground. It only matters with a microswitch because the is the NO and NC contact - the ground is common for both of those contacts.

[keilmillerjr]

You accidentally ordered awesome buttons. 

[kuehnau]

Okay, thanks for the info, I was worried for a second there I was going to need to order more buttons.

[jdbailey1206]

I intentionally ordered these buttons.  But in my haste forgot to order the smaller connectors.  You need the 2.8 mm connectors instead of the standard 4.8 mm connectors.  The only problem I fore see is having to either make your own harness or substitute the smaller connectors in your pre made chain.  Which seems easy.  They tend to give you enough slack to replace connectors.

[keilmillerjr]

I intentionally ordered these buttons.  But in my haste forgot to order the smaller connectors.  You need the 2.8 mm connectors instead of the standard 4.8 mm connectors.  The only problem I fore see is having to either make your own harness or substitute the smaller connectors in your pre made chain.  Which seems easy.  They tend to give you enough slack to replace connectors.

You could always make short wires with 4.8 mm spade on one side, and 2.8 mm female on the other side. Doing so would make it easy should you ever replace the buttons with something else. All you have to do is invest in a halfway decent ratcheting w crimper. I got mine from del city. I got the crimps (in packs of 100) for $3 each from ebay.

[jdbailey1206]

Are the ratcheting crimpers worth it?  I have seen quite a few of the members recommend them.  I just have just a regular crimper and was wondering if the ratcheting version was even worth it.  It probably gives you more of a controlled crimp and the terminal and wire are most likely attached better.  Let me know.

[PL1]

Are the ratcheting crimpers worth it?

YES!

Even an el-cheapo crimper from Harbor Freight (protip: function check them in the store before you buy them) is better than the manual pliers.

Crimpers provide better control and consistency.

Suggested pliers/links here and here.


Scott

[jdbailey1206]

Are the ratcheting crimpers worth it?

YES!

Even an el-cheapo crimper from Harbor Freight (protip: function check them in the store before you buy them) is better than the manual pliers.

Crimpers provide better control and consistency.

Suggested pliers/links here and here.


Scott

Seriously Scott.  Don't hold back.  Tell us what you really think.     Thank you for the insight.  I knew ratcheting crimpers was the smart way to go.  As much as I would love to go back and double check all my connections....

[Fursphere]

I solder everything I do.  Crimping sucks.  And if the metals are different, it'll corrode over time.

[PL1]

There are pros and cons to soldering, just like there are pros and cons to crimping.

@Fursphere - What kind of environment are you keeping your electronics in to have a problem with corrosion on your crimps?   

Corrosion requires an electrolyte as well as dissimilar metals.

Dirty connecting surfaces will cause problems whether you crimp or solder.


Scott

[jdbailey1206]

Geh.  I wish I could solder. 

[keilmillerjr]

Even an el-cheapo crimper from Harbor Freight (protip: function check them in the store before you buy them) is better than the manual pliers.

Crimpers provide better control and consistency.

Suggested pliers/links here and here.


Scott

The (only) ratcheting crimper from harbor freight is not the same as the ones I purchased from del city. The ones from harbor freight look like a barrel type compression crimper and the one I posted from del city is a double (does both sizes required for one crimp at the same time) F type crimper. You should decide what type of crimps you are going to use, and choose the correct type tool.

I solder everything I do.  Crimping sucks.  And if the metals are different, it'll corrode over time.

Crimps are used in automobiles and airplanes. The key to using crimps is to use quality crimps and tools, and to heat shrink tube over the joined connection. Solder creates greater resistance and can also create a weak point. High melting point means you could damage the sheath when applying. Solder an oxygen sensor or crank angle sensor wire on a car and you will have issues.

[PL1]

The (only) ratcheting crimper from harbor freight is not the same as the ones I purchased from del city. The ones from harbor freight look like a barrel type compression crimper and the one I posted from del city is a double (does both sizes required for one crimp at the same time) F type crimper.

They work just fine for insulated QDs like these from GGG, Paradise Arcade, etc.

   

Look closer at the 2nd picture on the HF crimper.

The two sides of the jaws are different sizes to allow equal compression on the stripped and insulated parts of the wire.

Stripped wire + QD + one full compression of the crimper = finished crimp.

83 pounds of pull should be a high enough rating, right?   



Roll-crimp connectors can yield higher quality connections, but they're not as commonly available for QDs.

Also, the HF crimpers are the cheapest version I recommend -- the links above list other reasonably-priced choices with higher quality designed to work with roll-crimp compatible connectors.


Scott

[jdbailey1206]

I agree with you guys.  I would prefer to know how to solder for  more complicated things.  ie circuit boards etc.  I am pretty good at wielding a cutting torch.  I have seen what any type of heat can do to a smaller gauge of wires.   

[Minwah]

The crimp tool I have is awful, so I tend to 'crimp' manually with some small pliers, and then solder.

Sometimes the connectors can be very tight on microswitches etc, and in the past I have pulled the wire off and left the connector behind - with crimped connectors. But as I say I don't have a decent crimping tool...

[keilmillerjr]

I agree with you guys.  I would prefer to know how to solder for  more complicated things.  ie circuit boards etc.  I am pretty good at wielding a cutting torch.  I have seen what any type of heat can do to a smaller gauge of wires.   

You could always crimp and apply a tiny bit old solder to help hold everything intact as mentioned.

If you do solder, here is a few pointers.

* Practice. It took me a while to learn how to do it the right way.
* Use rosin core solder. I like the thin wire that comes wound in a tube. It's easy for me to work with. I can apply tiny amounts. I can also bend and feed the wire with one hand. Spools and too think of material are not as easy to work with.
* Buy one of those Radio Shack stands with two clips and a magnifying glass. It can hold two wires together in the air. Without it, I always feel like I need another hand (or two).
* Radio shack soldering irons are junk. The wires are bent and stiff. I've been through 2 of them because I'm working and burn the wire. Sometimes I knock things over. It's not flexible enough like an outdoor extension cord or microphone cables.
* Do not buy shrink tubing at radio shack. You spend a lot of money for a tiny package that includes a ton of random sizes you will never use. Go to home depot or order online.
* Buy solder wick to remove solder.

* Cut your section of shrink tubing and slip it over your wire BEFORE you crimp or solder. I have ---fouled up beyond all recognition--- that up so many times it isn't even funny.
* Apply a light coat of solder to the top of your soldering iron.
* Apply the iron tip to the bottom of the joint. Apply the tip of some extended solder wire to the top of the joint. Have some slack. Keep holding it. Do not touch the solder to the tip of the soldering iron. I used to do that and it is not the proper way (You are just applying solder over the wire, not inside it). If you keep holding them while not touching, eventually the iron will heat the wire, which will heat the solder. The solder will enter the wire (not just coating it). Keep the iron in the same spot and move/feed the solder across your joint until the wire has a think coating across, making it change color. This is a well done solder job. 

[PL1]

More great soldering info here.


Scott

[GiMiK]

I agree with you guys.  I would prefer to know how to solder for  more complicated things.  ie circuit boards etc.  I am pretty good at wielding a cutting torch.  I have seen what any type of heat can do to a smaller gauge of wires.   

Here is a series on Basic Soldering from Pace on Youtube. I know it's dated, but most of the material is good and relevant. Aside from some styles of connectors that you will likely never see it could be a valuable start.

[Nephasth]

Best to know how to both crimp properly and solder properly. Cover all your bases.