About to buy 1943, questions about jamma

[ionbasa]

Hello,

I am about to buy a Capcom Mideway 1943 board. This will be my first arcade project as I am fairly new.

I had a question about wiring power to a Jamma innterface.

First I will be using a switching power supply, So the 1943 board should receive +5v on pins: 3,4,C,D . Followed by -5v on pins: 5, E, +12V on 6, F and finnaly logical ground on pins: 1,2,A,B.

Do all the ground pins have to go to the ground on the power supply?


Also for Midway 1943 does the board output standard 15 Khz Horizontal sync?


Thanks for taking the time to help a new player.

[Nephasth]

Do all the ground pins have to go to the ground on the power supply?

1, 2, A, and B do. 27, 28, E and F are used for switch grounds (buttons, joysticks, coin switches, etc.). 14 is the Video Signal Ground and should go to the signal header on the monitor.

Also for Midway 1943 does the board output standard 15 Khz Horizontal sync?

Standard 15Khz, yes.

[ionbasa]

Thanks,
So it looks like I have my basics covered then!

When I go but the board is there anything I should watch out for? Burnt pins?

Is there any way to identify if the board is genuine or a copy?

I just want to make sure that I get everything right for my first cab. (I plan to build one)

[CraftyMech]

1943 doesn't use -5v, so you don't have to worry about that connection.

An original Capcom 1943 is a two board "stack" (connected by ribbon cables), and will have "Capcom" printed on both boards. The ROM chips will also have labels with "Capcom" & "BM" (Battle of Midway) printed on them.

Great project idea, are you planning on replicating a 1943 cab complete with side art and control panel?

One of my favorite games!

[ionbasa]

Yes I do plan on making new cabinet entirely from scratch. I was able to find some AutoCAD files with all the dimensions.

So far from the pictures the seller has given me, it is a dual pcb board connected together with ribbon cables.

I plan on going and checking out the board in person and also hopefully buying it this weekend / next work week (its an hour drive from where I live.)

The only problem I am having though is finding a CRT monitor that accepts composite negative sync, all the reasonably priced ones only accept separate h-sync and v-sync, so ill probably end up using a JROK converter for component output and then using a component---> VGA cable to hook up to a Samsung Syncmaster CRT.

Hopefully the Syncmaster accepts the component input( it's usually hit or miss).

[ionbasa]

Scratch that the component to--> VGA cable wont work, so I will have to use one of my older crt tvs.

[CraftyMech]

If you want to use a PC compatible VGA CRT, what you need is one of these: http://www.ebay.com/itm/CGA-EGA-YUV-TO-VGA-arcade-video-converter-US-Seller-/321170765324?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item4ac744f60c

They are cheap on eBay ($30+) and will take the 15k composite sync signal and convert it to 31K VGA. I have one of these converters and have tried it with a 1943 pcb, and it worked pretty well.

It is still possible to find 15k CRTs, for instance I have an old Apple RGB monitor that I just picked up and works great on my test bench. The problem is a lot of older monitors were much smaller (15" or less), so they don't work that well for a cab where you want 19"+.

The other option is an actual Arcade monitor (15k composite sync RGB monitor made for use in arcade cabinets), but they are open frame (without a case) and it is hard to find one without any burn-in and low operating hours. There are a lot of users here though that have arcade monitors in their cabs, check out the "Monitor/Video" sub-form.

[ionbasa]

Well, it looks like I will have to get that board or the one from JROK: http://www.jrok.com/hardware/RGB.html to convert to YUV/S video so I can use it with my tv.

I plan on picking up a studio monitor off eBay though which is a 20” Sony PVM-20M2U . This monitor supports RGB inputs + (negative) composite sync.

I found out that there are a ton of studio monitors similar to this Sony one on eBay which range in price from $100 - $200.

If anyone has any other suggestions please let me know!

I should be receiving detailed pictures of the 1943 board soon, and ill upload here to see if people agree it is in good condition ( no missing eproms).

[ionbasa]

Just got the pictures from the seller! I attached them in the post.

I believe everything looks in order, so I am going to see if I can buy it later in the week/ next weekend. Its an hour drive from where I live, so it should be an interesting adventure 

Now I have another question for someone who knows about the original cabinet designs? What type of cabinet did Capcom use? or did they only sell the boards and re-used cabinets?

I have a link to cabinet designs: http://jakobud.com/plan-list.php

Do any of the cabinets here match the original cabinets for the 1943 Battle of Midway game?

[CraftyMech]

Looks legit! So how much are you paying for the board? Going rate on eBay has been $50-$75

[ionbasa]

Looks legit! So how much are you paying for the board? Going rate on eBay has been $50-$75

The ones I have seen on eBay are usually "untested" and as-is. The seller is asking $100 dollars, but will give it to me for $80, but I get to see the board in person when I go pick it up, and he has tested it, and will retest it when I am there.

I am actually excited since this will be my first arcade related project.

But I still don't know what cabinet I should use? I want to hand build a new cabinet, using some schematics found here: http://jakobud.com/plan-list.php , but I don't know what cabinet was originally used for the game.

[opt2not]

Ionbasa are you in SoCal?
I ask 'cause there's been a $100 1943 board on CL for ages now...

[ionbasa]

Ionbasa are you in SoCal?
I ask 'cause there's been a $100 1943 board on CL for ages now...

That would be the one! (yes I am located in socal)

[CraftyMech]

$80 is a good deal, especially since you are able to see the board working in person.