Help! Couple questions with standup machine, PCB and rear panel pressure switch

[nagamitsu]

Picked up my second arcade machine. Now have a standup and cocktail. Game PCB board with the standup, whole unit powers up, but no game starting up on monitor. There's some toggle/dip switches on PCB, and next to them, two lit red lights. Almost wondering maybe if the switches are in wrong position or game board simply inoperable.

Back of cabinet (missing the back unfortunately) has a pressure switch. Obviously so if back panel taken off, it shuts down the machine. I think someone wired it differently, so that when switch is out the machine still runs, pressed in and it shuts down machine. (opposite of what it should be) Not sure how to switch the wires on it. I'll upload some pics. There's two blue wires that run from it to power supply, and two brown, one to power supply and one to the external (top) power switch.

Tim

Just figured out my arcade machine was originally, I believe it was a Ms. Pacman machine, converted/painted to be P.O.W.

[nagamitsu]

Ok, found info on the dip switches, maybe I just need to try this board in my cocktail to see if it is same:

CLOSEST TO VOLUME POT
DIP 1        1    2    3    4    5    6    7    8
-----
FLIP         X
                 OFF
BONUS                 ON                               EVERY
                      OFF                              SECOND
# OF METERS                ON                          3
                           OFF                         2
COIN 1                           OFF  OFF              1 COIN 1 PLAY
COIN 2                                     OFF  OFF    1 COIN 1 PLAY


DOIP 2       1    2    3    4    5    6    7    8
------
DIFFICULTY  ON   OFF                                      EASY
            OFF  OFF                                      NORMAL
            OFF  ON                                       HARD
            ON   ON                                       VERY HARD
ATTRACT SOUND         OFF  OFF                            YES
                      ON   OFF                            NO
GAME MODE             OFF  ON                             NEVER FINISH
                      ON   ON                             STOP DISPLAY
BONUS 1,2                       OFF  OFF                  20K 50K
                                ON   OFF                  40K 100K
                                OFF  ON                   60K 150K
                                ON   ON                   NONE
CONTINUE                                  OFF             YES
MODE                                            ON        TEST

[paigeoliver]

Dip switch settings won't make your game inoperable.

The pressure switch you are talking about is an interlock switch. It should allow power if either pressed in or pulled out, but not at the neutral position. These are wired to the main cabinet AC power, so if one of these is tripped then nothing has any power. A lot of people just relocate these a little bit inboard so they can just pull them out and effectively bypass them.

[mgb]

A couple things to look at.
 First is it just the monitor that's not operating or the game board.

Check for neck glow on the monitor.

Coin up the game and see if you here the game playing even if you may not see it playing.

You obviously have something at the game board but the power should be checked for proper voltage.

Check for voltage where the connector goes to the game board. It should be 5v-5.2 volts.
Too low will cause problems. Some games will not boot at even 4.7 volts.
Adjust the power supply to proper voltage.

[nagamitsu]

Thanks! Realized about the dip switches after the fact. The two lights on PCB appear to be indicators of both 5 and 12 volt power being received, meaning a good sign if both lit.

I think the PCB is non-functional. Not even sure if it can be fixed or worth fixing. It is Prisoner of War. I have a cocktail unit as well, plugged it in there and no sounds, and just a few scrolling blue lines across the monitor. Going to post some pics of both units in the restoration section. Pleasantly surprised seeing what is beneath the paint of the standup after it was re-branded for POW.

Tim

[nagamitsu]

Here's the rear panel switch in pic, white switch on right hand side. It seems someone possibly reversed its wiring so that when it is not pressed in, power flows. Which may make sense, the rear panel itself is missing, so nothing to push it in. I'd like to wire it back to original for when I have back panel on it again.

Tim

[mgb]

That switch is probably wired the way it was always meant to be.
As was already said by Paigeoliver, those switches work in the following manner:
1) when the switch is pushed in (by the back door), its closed allowing power to go through.
2) when the door is removed, the switch goes to its neutral position which opens the path, killing power.
3) if you pull the switch out, past the neutral position, it's closed allowing power to go through.

That switch is probably sitting there in the pulled out position.

Also note that just because an led is lit on the game board, it does not mean that the 5 volts is at the proper voltage.

If you're gonna get more arcade boards, it will benefit you to perform the following steps to take care of the easy repairs on boards

1) always verify your 5 volts with a meter at the game board as I described in above post.
And check for any bad fuses ( with meter, not by eye)

2) reseat and possibly clean the pins on any socketed roms chips that are on the board.

[nagamitsu]

Much appreciated. I know cocktail unit does power up another PCB, I'll do further testing on this PCB though. Switch, is fully out and therefore allowing power through. If pressed all way in, it cuts power. So that's what I was confused with, figuring the back panel would have it pushed all the way in, should allow for power in that position?

Tim

[paigeoliver]

You are completely focusing on the wrong thing by worrying about that interlock switch. It isn't your problem.

Things like boards just tossed willy nilly into the bottom of the cabinet sitting on top of the isolation transformer, now that is a problem.

If you are trying to diagnose anything about games without a multimeter then you need to stop right now and go buy one. No excuses, just go into any home improvement or tool store and buy one.  Trying to work on games without a multimeter is like trying to work on cars with nothing but a hammer and a paintbrush, not only will you not get anything done, but the people you ask for help will also be laughing.

Just because one JAMMA board powers up in one cabinet doesn't mean that another good one will. You have to check and adjust the voltage every time. You need a multimeter to do that. They cost less than $10. Get a digital one, not one with a needle on it.

+5 volts is your most important voltage and is normally the only one you can directly adjust (the other ones have much looser tolerances than +5 does). You generally want this adjusted to somewhere between +5.01 and +5.1, measured on the gameboard. However measuring on the gameboard isn't always easy and you can usually get away with adjusting to +5.1 measured at the power supply as a quick check.

[mgb]

Amen to that brother

[nagamitsu]

  I'm not unfamiliar with electronics, I have a multimeter, have not had chance to check voltages yet. The PCB sitting on bottom of the cabinet, happened to be how the previous owner had it (that pic was when I went to see it). My goal was a setup with Openjamma board in each machine, so the current PCB is not much of a loss if I can't get it working. Just not sure if it was something simple or not to troubleshoot.

Concentration on the switch is due to my habit of being quite particular on things being 99% functional in their original configuration/condition. Take for example one thing I've come across, which is a test switch for the coin system, which someone has removed the wiring from. Just something I will probably wire up again to put back to how it was originally.  Sorry, just a stickler that way. Just a bonus if the POW PCB can be made to work, just not high on the list, as there's much more too the restoration I'd like to finish up.

I'll check the voltages soon and report back. Been working at stripping the paint off the cabinet to expose the Ms. Pacman graphics luckily still intact.

Tim

[nagamitsu]

Just a quick update, I'm guessing wires not right on the pressure switch, it allows power when in neutral, but shuts off power when pressed in and going to assume when pulled out as well. Just want to figure out at some point how it should be wired up.

Tim

[mgb]

The interlock switch has 2 poles to it.
1 pole has com, NC and NO and the other has the same.
If the switch is truly backwards than just swap the wires. If the wires are currently on NO, move them to NC.
Leave the commons where they are 

[nagamitsu]

I can't figure out what to swap around. Gonna drive me insane until I figure out how it should be wired. 

So I test voltage on it in different positions. Top blue wire, which comes from the AC outlet plug cord itself, always has power. If switch is pressed in or pulled out, the other three wires never have power. If main power switch is on (unit is powered up) and interlock is in neutral (which is position unit powers up with), both blue wires have power. Two brown never do. Top of two brown goes to main power switch. Other brown goes down to a fuse near transformers. Other blue one goes to what appears to be a filter, next to the transformers.

[PL1]

Unplug the machine and set your meter to ohms.

Using your photo above, number the terminals 1 thru 6, top to bottom.

Based on your earlier post, right now you have blue wires on 1 and 2 and when the interlock switch is in the middle position, you should have continuity (<2 ohms) between 1 and 2, but not between 1 and 3 or 2 and 3.

Pull the interlock switch out and check for continuity.

If 1 and 3 have continuity, then 2 is NC -- attach wires to 1 (COM) and 3(NO).

If 2 and 3 have continuity, then 1 is NC -- attach wires to 2 (COM) and 3(NO).

Verify that you get the same results when the switch is fully depressed as when it is fully extended. (continuity between NO and COM)

Repeat this process for the brown wires on 4-6 -- 4 should be NO.


Scott

[nagamitsu]

Will try this tonight, much appreciated!!

Tim

[nagamitsu]

This pretty much should be same as mine. So on mine, top down:

COM
NC
NO
NO
NC
COM

[nagamitsu]

That did the trick! Thanks!! Now operating as it should. Testing voltage at PCB board now, see what it is at.

Tim