Complete Noob Starting to Get Overwhelmed

[spratkobasa]

Hi Everyone,

I am new to the forum and have been reading a lot of the posts and found a lot of the answers to the many questions I have had.  So I would like to thank the community her for that (you guys are awesome!).   With that said I have run into some unique problems that I need your expert advise on.

1) I am using 3/4 inch MDF wood for my control panel with 30mm sanwa screw in buttons (OBSN) and u360 joysticks.  I plan on flush mounting the joysticks to the control panel and I will have to thin the wood for the buttons to screw in (as the nut thread is shorter than HAPP buttons).  My question is if I will have enough would left over after thinning to support my buttons, if not what are my options?  [side note]I will be using plexi glass/lexan and artwork on top.  I read on this forum that I don't want to go below 10 mm but I think this design cuts it close or will put me in negative territory .

2) I cannot find furring strips at my local home depot what are my alternatives as I can't figure out what to use?  This cabinet will be huge (43 inches x 84 inchs x 28 inches and made entirely from 3/4" MDF, so I want it to be super sturdy.

3) I got my t-molding from t-molding.com and got the 3/4 inch black chrome black molding.  It says I need a 0.080" slot.  What type of router bit do I need to make that go into my MDF without using glue?  Also how do I determine the that the height of the slot will be correct with the t-molding.

These problems have been driving me nuts any help you can provide will be greatly appreciated.

[shponglefan]

1) Yes, you will have enough thickness to support them.  I use Japanese buttons too w/o any issues.  It does require routing out space underneath, but MDF is still strong enough to support the buttons.

2) Seems strange they wouldn't have them?  At any rate, you can use any similar wood for support, it should matter too much.

3) http://www.t-molding.com/store/product.php?productid=57&cat=6&page=1

For determining the height, try it out on scrap first to set the height, then do the real thing.

[Dawgz Rule]

I cannot find furring strips at my local home depot what are my alternatives as I can't figure out what to use?  This cabinet will be huge (43 inches x 84 inchs x 28 inches and made entirely from 3/4" MDF, so I want it to be super sturdy.

Check in the section where they have pine and oak boards.  I can almost guarantee you will find 1x2 strips there.  They may not call them furring strips but they should do the trick.  Alternatively, you can rip a board with a table saw and make your own.

[mcseforsale]

Second the 1x2.  They will be straighter and easier to work with than crappy furring strips.  Cheap, too. 

AJ

I cannot find furring strips at my local home depot what are my alternatives as I can't figure out what to use?  This cabinet will be huge (43 inches x 84 inchs x 28 inches and made entirely from 3/4" MDF, so I want it to be super sturdy.

Check in the section where they have pine and oak boards.  I can almost guarantee you will find 1x2 strips there.  They may not call them furring strips but they should do the trick.  Alternatively, you can rip a board with a table saw and make your own.

[kahlid74]

MC and Dawg both have the way to do it.  I cut my own 3/4" plywood furring strips.  1x2's would rock no doubt.  The more surface area the better remember as the wood/Glue bond is really the strength of your cab.

[mcseforsale]

Furring strips have a chamfer/round on each of the corners whereas the pine 1x2 has sharp edges.  Makes for a more professional build.  Also, they tend to me of lesser quality wood (hence their use as furring strips) and usually warp much easier, if they aren't already when you buy them.  I use furring strips to hang pegboard on walls and stuff like that.  For anything that I need wider, I cut myself usually out of 3/4 ply. 

AJ

MC and Dawg both have the way to do it.  I cut my own 3/4" plywood furring strips.  1x2's would rock no doubt.  The more surface area the better remember as the wood/Glue bond is really the strength of your cab.

[spratkobasa]

Thank you everyone , you guys are the best!  I got some 2x2 kiln-dried spruce that I think will make sure its super sturdy.  Going to use particle board screens and wood glue   (counter sink the holes of course).  I think this will give me a sold frame to support this beast.

For the t-molding bit it looks like it can cost me a lot to get that shipped to where I lived.  I checked out several stores and they have sizes slightly larger or smaller than what I need.  My last hope is that they have it in a home hardware store I will check out tomorrow.

shponglefan for your sanwa screw in buttons how thin did you thin the wood so they could be properly screw in?

Once again thank you to everyone for your help it made a huge difference 

[shponglefan]

shponglefan for your sanwa screw in buttons how thin did you thin the wood so they could be properly screw in?

About 1/4".  This should be thin enough that depending on the thickness of the plexi, you should still be able to screw them in.

[mcseforsale]

What part of the world are you in?  It may help to get that info so we can help a bit more.

AJ

[spratkobasa]

Thanks shponglefan! I am in Canada the home depot here doesn't have everything the US one does.  Right now I am going to look at the non-chain stores to see what I can get.

[spratkobasa]

Great progress so far guys on my cabinet thanks to all of you guys.  I have a couple of new issues that I could really use your help on. 

1) I am trying to figure out a place to get plexiglass or lexan in Canada anyone know where I can purchase the glass and which type to go with?
2) I am still waiting on a special shank for my t-molding slot cutter should I just go ahead and paint everything first anyway as the part is a couple of weeks away from delivery?  Also should I be painting and priming the edges that I am going to slot cut for the t-molding?
3)  I am mounting a 40inch (35lb) TV in my cabinet. Is it ok to attach the mount directly to 3/4 inch MDF or do I have to bolt this to a 2 by 4 or something?  Right now I have 11/2 pine strips glue and screwed to my 3/4 inch mdf walls.  I was thinking of attaching a 2 by 4 to that strip via glue and screw and then bolting the TV mount to the 2 by 4.  Does this make sense?  What do you recommend? 

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide  

[mcseforsale]

Great progress so far guys on my cabinet thanks to all of you guys.  I have a couple of new issues that I could really use your help on. 

1) I am trying to figure out a place to get plexiglass or lexan in Canada anyone know where I can purchase the glass and which type to go with?

Try Tapplastics.com  Not sure what their shipping rates are to the great white north.

2) I am still waiting on a special shank for my t-molding slot cutter should I just go ahead and paint everything first anyway as the part is a couple of weeks away from delivery?  Also should I be painting and priming the edges that I am going to slot cut for the t-molding?

You will want to strengthen the edges and it's really easy and cheap.  You'll want to do this after cutting the slots, but before painting.  And definitely paint the edges afterwords:
http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,122362.msg1310052.html#msg1310052


3)  I am mounting a 40inch (35lb) TV in my cabinet. Is it ok to attach the mount directly to 3/4 inch MDF or do I have to bolt this to a 2 by 4 or something?  Right now I have 11/2 pine strips glue and screwed to my 3/4 inch mdf walls.  I was thinking of attaching a 2 by 4 to that strip via glue and screw and then bolting the TV mount to the 2 by 4.  Does this make sense?  What do you recommend? 
Not sure, but I wouldn't just hang a large TV from MDF.

Thanks in advance for any help you can provide

AJ

[EMDB]

Pictures or it didn't happen...

(start a thread in the Project Announcements, take plenty of pictures and show your progress. This will help us in helping you. And it is fun to watch build threads in general)

[BobA]

Home depot has plexi and lexan in a display around the windows security bars.   You will not find t molding at home depot.  If you are in the GTA or Montreal you can get t molding at arcade suppliers there but if in any other area it is easier to order from the US.

[spratkobasa]

Thanks for the tip Boba.  How thick do you think I need for the lexan/acrylic?  Also which would you go with?  I am currently working on getting some pictures so stay tuned.

[mcseforsale]

1/8th for CP and 3/16ths to 1/4 for monitor.

AJ

Thanks for the tip Boba.  How thick do you think I need for the lexan/acrylic?  Also which would you go with?  I am currently working on getting some pictures so stay tuned.

[shponglefan]

How thick do you think I need for the lexan/acrylic?

Depends on the thickness of your panels and size T-molding you are using.  Personally I like using 5/8" MDF and 1/8" plexi, with 3/4" T-molding.  I've also used 1/2" MDF and 1/8" plexi with 5/8" T-molding.

[kahlid74]

A TV of that size should be mounted to a 2x4 that is secured on the sides by furring strips/glue/2" screws/nails(15ga).

So yeah, use a 2x4 through the middle.  It will also help to strengthen/stabilize your cab.

[Monkeyvoodoo]

There are a few places that just provide plastics to industries. They also usually provide small orders to the public. I would assume the GTA itself would have a bunch. I've used www.paplastics.com before (based in Hamilton, On. And I know I have a few places around me now in Victoria. Just look through the yellow pages.


Sent from where ever I happen to be.

[spratkobasa]

Hey everyone,

Here is a picture of my current setup of the framing.  Kahlid74 should I just attach the 2x4 to the furring strip?
i.e.

|furring strip| 3/4 inch Mdf|2x4|wall mount|
or
[2x4|furring strip|3/4 inch mdf||wall mount|

Also what do you think of my support bar setup for the control panel? (see picture)


Shponglefan my control panel consists of the following: 3/4 inch MDF, 3/4 inch T-molding black with a chrome strip I got here (http://www.t-molding.com/store/product.php?productid=3&cat=8&page=1).  I don't think my T-molding can cover more than the wood, what do you recommend?


Thanks for the link for the plexi I will definitely check them out. Hopefully there is a store close enough to me  .

[shponglefan]

Shponglefan my control panel consists of the following: 3/4 inch MDF, 3/4 inch T-molding black with a chrome strip I got here (http://www.t-molding.com/store/product.php?productid=3&cat=8&page=1).  I don't think my T-molding can cover more than the wood, what do you recommend?

You have a few options (this assumes you will be using 1/8" plexi or thereabouts):

1) You can round the bottom edge of the MDF by about 1/8", then use the T-Molding to cover the edge of the plexi and the MDF down to the rounded off part.

2) You can try planing the entire 3/4" CP to get it thinner so the combined MDF and plexi thickness is 3/4". 

3) Redo the CP top using thinner MDF so that the T-molding will cover the MDF and the plexi.  Since you already have one CP cut out, you can use it as a template for the second, thinner CP.

[mcseforsale]

I recommend option 2.  I'd use a 45 degree chamfer bit.

AJ

Shponglefan my control panel consists of the following: 3/4 inch MDF, 3/4 inch T-molding black with a chrome strip I got here (http://www.t-molding.com/store/product.php?productid=3&cat=8&page=1).  I don't think my T-molding can cover more than the wood, what do you recommend?

You have a few options (this assumes you will be using 1/8" plexi or thereabouts):

1) You can round the bottom edge of the MDF by about 1/8", then use the T-Molding to cover the edge of the plexi and the MDF down to the rounded off part.

2) You can try planing the entire 3/4" CP to get it thinner so the combined MDF and plexi thickness is 3/4". 

3) Redo the CP top using thinner MDF so that the T-molding will cover the MDF and the plexi.  Since you already have one CP cut out, you can use it as a template for the second, thinner CP.

[spratkobasa]

Thanks AJ and shponglefan. I think option 2 seems like best for me.  However wood dowels will contact the bottom of my control panel so I can't do that (CP needs a flat level surface to rest on at the edge).  I was wondering if I could use that chamfer bit on the plexi itself.  Kind of like the below:
____
|      \ plexi
| MDF| Tmolding
____ | Tmolding
Dowel

So the tmolding only covers the mdf but I route the plexi for a smooth edge.  What do you think?

[mcseforsale]

But, we're just talking about the CP top, right?  Here's a look at what I was talking about:

So, on the bottom, I have a 1/8" chamfer (45 degrees), then the *now* 5/8" CP, then the plexi. this pic is before t-mold routing:



Then, the t-molding looks, from most angles, like it's actually covering the entire edge of the CP:



Especially if you use black paint on the edges...

AJ

[spratkobasa]

AJ you are right.  It looks like it doesn't go too deep into the wood either.  I will have to do some measurements as my CP will rest on a a set of dowels rather than a mdf box like yours.

[spratkobasa]

Hi everyone, I got all the supports in except for the TV support structure. I need a piece of lexan/acrylic 48 x 24 minimum for my control panel none of the thicknesses are 1/8th of an inch.  What should I go with?

My options:
http://www.homedepot.ca/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/SearchView?catalogId=10051&storeId=10051&langId=-15&N=0&Ntt=lexan&Nty=1&D=lexan&Ntx=mode+matchallpartial&Dx=mode+matchallpartial&s=true

[mcseforsale]

I think I used this one:

http://www.homedepot.ca/product/clear-acrylic-sheet-080-inch-x-30-inch-x-32-inch/924842

I had enough for 2 knievel CPs which are 15x32

Just bring your tape measure with you.  .092 is closer to 1/12 and .220 is closer to 1/4.

AJ

[shponglefan]

Hi everyone, I got all the supports in except for the TV support structure. I need a piece of lexan/acrylic 48 x 24 minimum for my control panel none of the thicknesses are 1/8th of an inch.  What should I go with?

.118

[mcseforsale]

Wait...did I do that wrong?

Probably. 

AJ

Hi everyone, I got all the supports in except for the TV support structure. I need a piece of lexan/acrylic 48 x 24 minimum for my control panel none of the thicknesses are 1/8th of an inch.  What should I go with?

.118

[shponglefan]

Wait...did I do that wrong?

Probably. 

Yeah, 0.080 is closer to 1/16" whereas 0.118 is closer to 1/8".

[mcseforsale]

Stupid online calculators. 

me=stupid.  But I must've gotten the .118 since I brought my tape measure to HD and measured it myself.

AJ

Wait...did I do that wrong?

Probably. 

Yeah, 0.080 is closer to 1/16" whereas 0.118 is closer to 1/8".

[shponglefan]

No worries.  I've mixed them up before, too.  Even just recently I was wondering why my T-molding was too short until realizing I'd use the wrong thickness of plexi.

[spratkobasa]

Thanks guys,

Good thing I am sick and didn't have time to hit up the home depot yet.  I will try to get the one:
http://www.homedepot.ca/product/clear-acrylic-sheet-118-inch-x-24-inch-x-48-inch/924844

It is just big enough to cover my panel so I probably don't need a cutter, I could just route the whole thing.  Will let you know how it goes.

[spratkobasa]

Hey AJ,

I just bought the kind you said you had but it doesn't seem very glossy like yours.  Did I get the right one?  I can still return it.  It just lacks gloss. 

[mcseforsale]

It should have a layer of plastic on both sides that allows you to work the product without scratching it. 

It's a ---smurfette--- to get off once you're done working the plexi, but believe me, plexi scratches REAL easily, so you need that plastic wrap on there when you're around it with tools.  Just peel a corner up a little to make sure it's clear.  The plastic wrap is on BOTH sides of the actual plexi.

AJ

Hey AJ,

I just bought the kind you said you had but it doesn't seem very glossy like yours.  Did I get the right one?  I can still return it.  It just lacks gloss. 

[spratkobasa]

You are right AJ.  I will take a look in home depot if they have any without the plastic on as I want to get a nice and shiny finish rather than matte.

[mcseforsale]

You want the plastic.  Leave the plastic on (It's like a tough cellophane) while you are working the plexi, then peel it off when you're ready to install it.  It is there so that you won't scratch it while working on it.  That will allow you to use your router on it without scratching it.

AJ

You are right AJ.  I will take a look in home depot if they have any without the plastic on as I want to get a nice and shiny finish rather than matte.

[spratkobasa]

I left the plastic on AJ.  Now I just have to use some good clamps that won't mark the plexi but will keep it in place. 

On a side note, I finally got my slot cutter to do the T-molding, my concern is that I won't be able to tell if the edges are perfectly square/flat for the t-molding.  Is there anything I can do to check that my edge is square before I slot cut?  Does it really matter that much if the edge is slightly off or not flat?

Cheers

[mcseforsale]

I use these...I put 3 or 4 of them and just move them around as they get in the way.  Another good way is to get the plexi where you want it, then do a couple buttons first, then use the buttons, too.

As for the slot-cutter, can you explain that a little?

AJ

I left the plastic on AJ.  Now I just have to use some good clamps that won't mark the plexi but will keep it in place. 

On a side note, I finally got my slot cutter to do the T-molding, my concern is that I won't be able to tell if the edges are perfectly square/flat for the t-molding.  Is there anything I can do to check that my edge is square before I slot cut?  Does it really matter that much if the edge is slightly off or not flat?

Cheers

[spratkobasa]

AJ I don't see a picture or link of what you are refering to for plexi.  If you see in my picture the edge of my mdf has to be level otherwise the tmolding won't go in flush if the MDF was cut on an angle or not even.  So I want the ideal state in my picture.