Complete tool noob Q's!

[rtpb]

Howdy,

I have not cut or built anything out of wood since 7th grade wood shop. I am now 27 (was 13 in 7th grade). My dad gave me a few things to get started. Some plywood to practice on (will get MDF for the real deal), a circular saw, jigsaw, and a drill. I also already had 2 saw horses, clamps and a few other miscellaneous tools around the house.

The one tool I do not have is a router. I have asked a bunch of friends/family and none of them have one either. I have the option of renting one, or buying one. Both have their ups and downs, buying one will allow me to practice and work at my own pace. Where as if I rent one I may be on a time crunch. Lowes by my house sells a Skil Fix Based Router for around $70. Would this be a good router to start out with? I am not trying to spend $300 on new tools, when it seems each of the router bits are around $20. The costs for one tool could easily double what I've spent on this project so far. Any input on routers? Is there anyway to get around NOT having one?

I have cut my plywood for a control and did a good job keeping straight. However neither side lines up evenly. I suspect a template would help instead of marking and measuring for each cut. What is a good material to make a template out of? When I have a template do I just clamp it on my wood and cut along the edges?

Also notice when using my hole saw to drill the 1 1/8 holes I can drill a hole, then have to remove all the wood inside the hole saw before I can drill another. Is there any way around this or is it just the nature of the game?

thanks a lot for any help suggestions or input!

[mystic96]

I prefer to use Forstner bits for hole drilling, although if you don't have a drill press then you need pretty steady hands to keep the holes straight.

As for the router, if you want to install t-molding it'll be mandatory. You could probably do the rest of the required cuts using hand tools (and figure your time cost to be exponentially increased), but damn sure they won't be pretty lol. You don't need a $300 router, but I'd expect to spend at least $100 for a decent one. And watch for sales on the bits, I was able to get a 14 (?) pack of various bits on clearance for like $20 (regular price was 80ish I believe).

[shponglefan]

Like mystic96 says, if you are planning T-molding a router will be mandatory.  Personally, I subscribe to the "buy things once" school of thought, so I wouldn't cheap out.  You don't necessarily need to spend $300, but I'd probably budget around $150 or so.

Routers in arcade building are generally ideal for:

1) Cutting both sides of the cabinet to exactly the same size; a flush trim bit works for this.
2) Cutting a plexiglass top to match the top of the control panel; again, flush trim bit.
3) Making perfectly smooth curved cuts (using a jig made out of a length of wood).
4) Slot cutting, for T-molding.
5) Routing out areas for flush-mounting joysticks or other hardware.
6) Trimming laminate, if you decide to go that route instead of paint.

So yeah, a router is recommended.  FWIW, you *can* build without one.  I made my first control panel without a router (actually I tried to use one for routing a T-molding slot, but effed up and made the slot too big).  I even cut a cover out of plexiglass without using a router, but admittedly it didn't fit the best.  But once I got a router, I can safely say I never looked back.

And yes, when using holesaws you have to remove whatever gets stuck in the saw when drilling.  A bit of a PITA, but the nature of using hole saws.

[rtpb]

Thanks for the replies. I suppose I'll keep my eye out for a good deal on one while I continue to ask around. I don't foresee myself doing it by hand

[Dekieon]

Get a plunge router, not a fixed base router. A plunge router can do everything a fixed base router can do and more. It is a far better tool.

[EssexMame]

5) Routing out areas for flush-mounting joysticks or other hardware.

What router bit is it that does this?

[shponglefan]

5) Routing out areas for flush-mounting joysticks or other hardware.

What router bit is it that does this?

Just a straight bit.

[PL1]

5) Routing out areas for flush-mounting joysticks or other hardware.

What router bit is it that does this?

Just a straight bit.

There are a variety of different sizes -- smaller ones let you get closer to making a square inside corner and the larger ones let you remove a wider swath in one pass.




Scott

[kahlid74]

As all the above have said the Frostner bit is superior for hold cutting.  Additionally owning a router is the way to go long term and a plunge router should be your choice.  There are lots of good deals on routers out there.  Be patient and watch and you'll snag one.

[EssexMame]

Is this a decent one (UK market)? Is it a plunge router?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-POF-1200-Watt-Router/dp/B001E4EJ5S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1ZZEMIQB6TB41&coliid=IVJMHZPOQOTSI

[spoot]

And face mask or better yet respirator to not get MDF crap in yer lungs......it's nasty.

[stripe4]

Is this a decent one (UK market)? Is it a plunge router?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-POF-1200-Watt-Router/dp/B001E4EJ5S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1ZZEMIQB6TB41&coliid=IVJMHZPOQOTSI

It is a decent plunge router but it lacks micro adjust (handy when cutting a t-molding slot).
I went with this one (it has micro adjust) but it cost about 75 GBP at the time I ordered from Amazon.co.uk:
http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-POF-1400-Watt-Router/dp/B001E4EJ6M/ref=sr_1_1?s=diy&ie=UTF8&qid=1363280169&sr=1-1

[keilmillerjr]

I just found this awesome video explaining the difference between fixed and plunge routers.

[rtpb]

thanks for all the replies guys! I ran into one of my uncles last night and he has a router. Going to pick it up this morning! Thankful I do not have to buy one. Going to get some bits for it as well. I need the flush trim bit? Which he said he would put one in, and then I need a slot cutting bit correct?

[shponglefan]

At the very least, you'll likely need a straight bit and a flush-trim bit.

You'll only need a slot cutting bit if you are going to be using T-molding.  You'll also need to make sure it's the right-sized bit for the specific type of T-Molding.

[rtpb]

So I got the router, I have  the bits I need. I made some attempts at mounting joysticks. The first one I did a top mount and failed hard with the router (first time using one).  I was able to get the joystick to mount but it sure ain't pretty.  Next I tried a bottom mount. I was had a better handle on the router and was able to make it pretty clean.  I really like the looks of the mount from the bottom as it's clean on top. However I do not think I went deep enough with my router. I have Zippy joysticks and probably an inch or so of metal sticks through. I am practicing on a 3/4" piece of plywood and will use 3/4" mdf for the real deal. The top mount has a lot of stick which is an upside for me. maybe it would be OK to cover up with artwork/plexi?

Does anyone have any tips for mounting joysticks? What is your preference, top, bottom?  I made my panel large enough for 4 players so I am still going to practice routing 2 more. Thanks!

[shponglefan]

I prefer top mounting them for sturdiness and because it gets the pivot point closer to the surface of the CP.  There was a recent post here where someone's bottom mounted sticks were ripped out by an over-zealous player.

If you are covering your surface with artwork, then it doesn't matter how clean a routing job it is.  It will be hidden so no one will know.

[kahlid74]

I prefer top mounting them for sturdiness and because it gets the pivot point closer to the surface of the CP.  There was a recent post here where someone's bottom mounted sticks were ripped out by an over-zealous player.

If you are covering your surface with artwork, then it doesn't matter how clean a routing job it is.  It will be hidden so no one will know.

Like Shpongelefan said, if you cover the CP no one will ever know how messy it is.  I mount mine from the bottom and use bolts to secure through the wood.  I use flat head machine screws to fall flush to the CP surface and once covered you never know it's there.  I've never had an issue with the Joystick being too far down but I'll definitely look into this as Shpongelefans statement has me thinking.

[rtpb]

Thanks guys,

for my bottom mount I didn't have small enough screws but I went ahead with it anyways the tip sticks through the CP. While playing with it I was really trying to move the sticks around. I did manage to loosen the screws on the bottom mount. The top mount stayed in place even with the routing being terrible and only being able to put in 1 screw.  I think I am going to make another top mount tonight after doing more research to see how it goes.

If I try another bottom mount how much room should I give the screws to hold? Should I screw in from the top of the CP? I am thinking about going with bolts for the real deal. I am afraid if I route out to deep to allow a lot of the joystick through it will leave me with weaker wood when I screw into it.

thanks again!

[shrunkenmaster]

Is this a decent one (UK market)? Is it a plunge router?

http://www.amazon.co.uk/Bosch-POF-1200-Watt-Router/dp/B001E4EJ5S/ref=wl_it_dp_o_pC_nS_nC?ie=UTF8&colid=1ZZEMIQB6TB41&coliid=IVJMHZPOQOTSI

Same as mine, used it for all my cabs. Seriously, I can't imagine not having one now, you can do so much with it!

[sabreerbasAlpha]

Were can I get a 1/16th 2mm slot cutter for the T Moulding UK or not. Thanks...

[JDFan]

Were can I get a 1/16th 2mm slot cutter for the T Moulding UK or not. Thanks...

Routerbitworld through Amazon.com has them with a 1/4" shank for $17.62  ( http://www.amazon.com/Freud-63-100-16-Inch-Cutter-4-Inch/dp/B0002TUCRA/ref=sr_1_2?m=A1WO0LWTFI0BL8&s=hi&ie=UTF8&qid=1365136656&sr=1-2&keywords=slot+cutting+router+bit )