Aimtrak recoil issues... (solved)

[rcub3]

So I picked up everything i need for a couple of aimtrak guns with recoil.  I installed everything per the pdf on the ultimarc site.  But the solenoid is not working.  Help!

Some other details for whoever has experience with this:

-I installed the latest aimtrak utility program (1.9), updated the sensor module's firmware to 9.15, and was able to calibrate the gun just fine.  No issues there.  The tracking and trigger work flawlesly.

-Yes, I cranked up the solenoid strength setting on the utility program, and of course, uploaded the changes to the module. 

-I am using a Kodak 36V 1.7A printer (?) power supply. From the power cable, I connected the "inside wire" to the V+ and the surrounding "outside wiring" to the V- on the trigger PCB, which is how the polarity is set on the coaxial power plug (which of course I had to remove).  SHould I just try inverting these?

-I touched up some of the soldering just in case... because the solenoid actually fired ONCE (and gave me a heart attack btw).  I was aiming at the screen at all times....which brings me to the next point.
 
-When the instructions say, "you have to aim at the screen for the solenoid to fire", I'm assuming that as long as the sensor on top of my screen can "see the gun", it should work, right?  I don't need to be running an actual game, I don't think...

-If I touch the solenoid directly to the + and - of the power supply cable, it does fire.

-Just to be clear regarding the two wires removed from the old trigger, the one going to the side trigger goes on G and the other one coming from the sensor module goes on T on the new trigger PCB, right? 

-The Aimtrak utility is picking up a "strong" signal strength from the module, when I click on the tab to check for that.


ANY help would be greatly appreciated. 

[8BitMonk]

As long as you can see the signal onscreen it should fire the solenoid. It looks like you have a newer gun as the inside is a little different than mine but the setup looks correct. You could try flipping the + and - on the solenoid though I know from experience it's a pain to remove the solder on that small pcb and it's a short wire to cut and re-splice. I'd shoot Andy an email and see if he has any ideas. I found the connection in the little white connector on the light sensor pcb to be suspect too, it's hard to push in without bending and making sure it connects well, might want to double-check that.

[rcub3]

I've concluded that it has to be a faulty solder point on the trigger PCB. I built the second gun being extra anal about my soldering, and the recoil works flawlessly.  I'm getting a good solid kick with the 36v....thanks 8bitmonk for the suggestion.

So i'm just going to redo the faulty one completely...

In other news, when i pull the trigger 5-6 times in a row real fast (about twice per second), the power supply's led light goes out, and stops providing power to the solenoid.  I have to disconnect and reconnect it to have the led turn on and provide juice once again. If I stay at around one click per second, it's fine. Sigh.... Thoughts? Suggestions? 

[WindDrake]

In other news, when i pull the trigger 5-6 times in a row real fast (about twice per second), the power supply's led light goes out, and stops providing power to the solenoid.  I have to disconnect and reconnect it to have the led turn on and provide juice once again. If I stay at around one click per second, it's fine. Sigh.... Thoughts? Suggestions?

That's the printer supply going into Overload protection. You're going to need around ~2 Amps @ 24v per coil (IIRC the coils are 50w).

This is why the recoil power supplies are 5A@24vDC.

[rcub3]

In other news, when i pull the trigger 5-6 times in a row real fast (about twice per second), the power supply's led light goes out, and stops providing power to the solenoid.  I have to disconnect and reconnect it to have the led turn on and provide juice once again. If I stay at around one click per second, it's fine. Sigh.... Thoughts? Suggestions?

That's the printer supply going into Overload protection. You're going to need around ~2 Amps @ 24v per coil (IIRC the coils are 50w).

This is why the recoil power supplies are 5A@24vDC.

Well apparently going with 36v does make a difference... I'm trying to find 36v charger/power supplies on ebay with 5A but It's hard to make sure I'm getting the right thing (battery chargers? Scooter chargers? Ac/dc converters...?) This is the best I've seen 36v 4.16a. But it is almost 5A.  Is that enough?

[rcub3]

Finally.  I have one fully functional gun with recoil.  I did have to go with more A's: went from 1.4A to 3A, and the recoil didn't miss a single solenoid kick and the power supply handled it just fine.   

This is what I got:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/130835271171?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Now, back to the gun from the original post above...

[8BitMonk]

Congrats! One down.

[rcub3]

Congrats! One down.

Well, now both are working perfectly!  I did have to resolder a few things on that first faulty one.  That seemed to do it. 

Now, why would I stop there? Now I'm looking at gun hose/cord alternatives.  I'm considering metal like shower hoses vs a nylon mesh that I saw in another thread vs that black plastic cord wrap-around hose. 

I ordered from ebay a couple of mic or CB 6pin connectors (jack and socket set):  2 pins for the V+ and - for the solenoid, and the other 4 for the USB signal.  The socket will be installed on the actual cabinet likely under the CP, and the jack at the end of each gun cord.  I liked these connectors because it seemed like a safe alternative.  The ones below are the "screw-on" type.  I have no idea if this will work, but in my mind, it does.   

[8BitMonk]

Glad you got them working! The power plug seems bulky. I just used M connectors from Radio Shack:

Drilled a hole in the side of the cab for this one...



http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2102486

...and then this on the guns power cord:



http://www.radioshack.com/product/index.jsp?productId=2103614

I wrapped the USB and power cords together with black Gorilla tape, basically duct tape. I tried wire ties every 4-5" and didn't like it, snagged on stuff. I thought of a heat shrink wrap but it seemed like a pain. The tape was easy and looks decent, flexible.

[rcub3]

Nice. 

We'll see.  If it is indeed too bulky, I'll ditch the idea, and will go with something simpler.  I just liked the idea of having a single plug on the side of the cab for everything, and one that is "secure". 

[8BitMonk]

Some other considerations:

• If you don't use the connector that secures itself I'd put it on the side of the control panel rather than bottom so the weight of it doesn't make it fall out.
• It's not always great to have the guns hooked up when you're not using them, they just get in the way. So with a screw type connector it's more of a chore to unhook and hook them.
• Also with a separate usb connector when the guns are unplugged you can use them for other devices, controllers etc.
  

Mine looks like this:



Good Luck.

[letraitplat]

Finally.  I have one fully functional gun with recoil.  I did have to go with more A's: went from 1.4A to 3A, and the recoil didn't miss a single solenoid kick and the power supply handled it just fine.   

This is what I got:  http://www.ebay.com/itm/130835271171?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1423.l2649

Now, back to the gun from the original post above...

Hello
I'm in the process of building my own aimtrak recoil guns, and I'm searching for a good reliable psu, with enough length of cable to confortably play in front of the cabinet.

Could you provide more info about this PSU, it's not visible on ebay anymore ?
Brand, power, cable length, price...?

Thanks in advance