Sega Touring Car Championship wiring/connections

[Radin]

Hello,

I was advised by Ramjet to post here, basically i want to kindly please ask for some help.

I bought a STCC set, a dsb1 for stcc (and the cable for dsb1) off ebay.

I also got a filterboard for model 2b/c, a model2 to jamma adapter, and an arcade supergun 24khz-display capable (PC-ATX powered).

All should be set for the initial boot, but i can't at the moment because i am unsure of how to connect the DSB1.
Below are images with all the above mentioned, and the connectors at both ends of the cable.
The things i don't know, aside from connecting, are : the dsb1 outputs all the sound or just the music? can the stcc set boot without the dsb1 connected?

And please add any important information also

[retrorepair]

The DSB isn't needed to boot the game, but it does mix the game audio with the game music and outputs that to the amp in the cabinet.

Someone on here hooked up a Daytona set this way once (I think it was on here, maybe a google search will help).

Also keep in mind model 2 games need all the 5v and ground input pins connected as it draws a lot of power. The power output header on the filter board is for output to coin mech, lamps and common ground for switches. Only hook up the grounds to the switches, ignore the power on this one.

[retrorepair]

Btw, the images on the DSB side connect to the DSB obviously. On the PCB side, you have audio out and midi out. Also remember sega colour codes:

Red = 12v
Yellow = 5v
White = ground

The audio will be unamplified so it'll need to be amped through your tv/hifi.

[Radin]

Thanks alot for your help!

I will try to boot the game without the DSB; unfortunatelly i don't think i have midi out pins on the filterboard (can i try some barbaric solution? hehe).

I will post pics/vids in a dozen of minutes (with boot).

Really appreciate it, thanks again!

[retrorepair]

That's odd, it looks like your midi header (CN4) is missing. I guess the game it came from didn't use it. I thought it'd still have it though.

You can just solder in a regular header there. If you are ok with soldering, you can remove the 8bit header and cut that down and use that. It's only for lamp outputs anyway which I assume you don't need. I can check one of my filter boards to see which way round it goes.

[Radin]

just tried to boot it, it shows a black screen (that becomes a bit lighter later), and the leds are lit as shown below

[retrorepair]

Hmm. Looks like you only have two power leads connected, you really want them all hooked up as I described earlier. Either that or I would assume your psu isn't powerful enough. You should be getting a network check and depending on the way it's set up either a network error or the game should boot up.

Do you have a multimeter to check the 5v?

[Radin]

the model 2-> jamma adapter i have only has 2 power leads; the atx pc psu is 435W; i might try with the one in the pc which is 650

[retrorepair]

Has it been tested on another model 2 game? I think 2c will probably have different power requirements to earlier games though.

Where did you get the adapter?

[Radin]

i got it from highway (http://www.highway.net.au/); they said it will be compatible with stcc

[retrorepair]

They are pretty reliable.

Let us know how you get on with the 650w psu.

[Radin]

ok, shutting down pc and i try.

 many thanks again for your helpful posts

[Radin]

unfortunatelly same deal with the 650w psu.

[RamjetR]

Hey,

I see what you bought now... I have my cabinet still in full working order so I can take some pictures for you on the weekend if you like to help direct what cable does what on my PCB's anyway. If your missing some cables, then I have quite a number of wiring harness's from a STCC and a Indy 500 DX cabinet which may be of use to you.

I got my STCC DX from Highway.net.au too. They are a reliable source. Are you in Australia as well? I'm in Brisbane if your nearby you can pop round and check my cabinets for information to connect yours up. You've also got the best man on the job with STCC cabinets, Retro will sort that out for you

Ramjet.

[retrorepair]

Thanks Ramjet 

Have you checked the 5v yet? I still think it will need more than two power connectors at the PCB. This has been the issue with a lot of people trying the same thing. I think (more assumption than anything) the power is isolated on some of these boards at those connectors, though I can't verify that.

I'm convinced power is your issue. If you had the DSB hooked up you could test the audio to see if the board is running blind. This is the problem running a PCB in this configuration when it wasn't meant to be. It should be easy but there are many factors which you just can't account for.

I take it you are using a scaler to convert the 24khz signal? The picture getting lighter would be down to that. I had the same thing when I was fixing Racing Jam boards a while ago. I could see it but the brightness was out of control on the cheapo Chinese scaler I had (the ones doing the rounds on eBay right now). It's not the board.

[Radin]

I will check the 5v today, also an electronics repairman (friend of mine, i am not by any means skilled with electronics) depending on his schedule might come to see the set.

The video adapter is a gonbes version 2010 (Chinese stuff), but i saw on a french forum some guy using that for model 2 and it displayed fine.

Will connect the dsb1 too, and see what i make of it.

Thanks.

[Radin]

Oh, and to answer Ramjet (i was in a hurry when i wrote last post) i live far away from Australia (in Romania) sadly, or i would have a few machines at home hehe.

[Radin]

I should consider the fact that the filterboard might be unapropriate.

I found one on a site that says it has comm ports and analog inputs and is suitable for STCC too (model 2b/c, also looks different).

In case i don't get the set to boot soon i will get it, although i would preffer one that works for sure (buying 3 filterboards and the waiting time involved ain't too nice...)

Waiting on answer from seller, as in the picture not all connectors were clearly visible on the filterboard.

My friend that repairs electronics promised to drop by this evening, i'll see how that goes.

All is ready for connecting the DSB1 (got an pc power IDE extension cable which i will sacrifice to connect the dsb to psu).

I will post the results later.

[Radin]

Boot success!

small video here (idk why it appears like this)




My friend helped me, we connected on the model2->jamma adapter +5v and GND from an arcade PSU, pumped up the +5v a bit and it worked - the game having connected the pc atx psu in this time also (the pc atx only showed 4,5v at the jamma fingerboard).

We did not bother with the DSB1, because the filterboard i have has 4pin snd out connector, and the dsb1 on pcb set side has 5, the middle one being not connected, so there was no way.

Guess i need another filterboard.

I entered test menu, memory and t.g.p. tests were ok.

The video output is too bright, i managed to mess a bit with the "Clamp" option in the osd of the adapter but it either displays semi-fine with a curtain on the side (left or right) that if you adjust to the left or right it pumps up the luminosity (brightness).

Please have a look at the leds on the pcb, i wonder if they should be lit that way.

Coin, test and service responded, however start button did not (i only connected 16 pins out of 24 - there are 2 connectors on my model2-> jamma adapter so idk).

It seems i need a beefier psu (5v at 25+A???), and a new filterboard.


Looking forward to your suggestions, and i thank you in advance

[RamjetR]

Congrats getting it to boot!!

I haven't a clue on the Jamma connections I'm afraid... however for the LED sequences there, you can compare to my videos for a boot sequence.

Note that those LED's changed often when the screen would change with the gamestates. There will be a sequence for Attract mode, game select mode, qualifying mode etc etc.. But for the most part that all looked good to me?

What do you plan to put it into when it's all up and running?

Ramjet.

[Radin]

I plan on putting the STCC set on a thin wood sqaure, then above it another wood square with the DSB1 and the video converter and whatever else; that way i can move it easily, and save
space too; first i will connect a gutted gamepad i have, then i will buy a racing wheel and adapt that.

I'm down to figuring out what psu/filterboard (audio) i need and how can i correct the over-brightness of the display; start button also/other inputs.

Plus i want to make a control box with illuminated buttons for start/view change just like the cabinet.

[Radin]

Small update

I bought a suitable filterboard for STCC, according to the seller (Andrew Lewis aka Andy Geezer at Amusement Game Services), it is brand new and specially for STCC/Indy500 and it has all the connectors i need; now i need to wait for the item to arrive.

http://www.tms-designs.com/theshed/default.asp?stockid=1865

Also, small topic bump in the case you guys can please share knowledge, i still have the problems listed in the last post.

Specifically the video output too bright, and inputs (analog and pushbuttons).

Thanks again

[Radin]

Big Update

I secured a deal on a OCZ Powerstream ATX PSU (adjustable potentiometers for 5,12 and 3.3v) on ebay; shipping was a fortune due to weight, but powering the unit will be easy now (some1 on a french forum used this for model 2/3).

I also took the pcb set and the dsb1 to an IT service center for a bit of cleansing.

In other news, i'm a bit worried -> the filterboard i mentioned above (the 2nd one) arrived fine, but on the sound output part it has a 4 pin connector, as opposed to what i have on the DSB1 cable for the PCB set, which is 5 pin with the middle one empty, so a bit worried and confused...

On the video converter box side i will probably get a proper scan converter - the Genius Box from Mimo Enterprises; costs alot but i guess its the only tested way for these systems...


These being said, i want to kindly please ask for some help (again , mainly:

- how do i deal with the sound output (4pin - 5pin)
- link to a better priced scan converter
- how/where to connect the controls - all of them (analog and digital) (i will look at schematics later)

Many thanks in advance!

[Radin]

I've identified on the schematics the controls (thanks Ramjet!); i will order the connectors and wire accordingly, seems this filterboard is exactly what i need.

I will update with boot on the new ATX PSU and image adjusted with potentiometers.

Tomorrow i pick the boards up from cleansing, hope he did not destroy anything in the process...

[Radin]

Hello again,

After a long break i come back to this project; in the image attached i extracted from the manual the wiring connectors (should be all);
i ordered the connectors and pins for them, as well as an video converter 24khz compatible (should be original Gonbes latest model).


One thing remains obscured - but i think i will sort it out - namely the audio SFX output.

By that i mean that the filterboard on the sound output part it has a 4 pin connector, as opposed to what i have on the DSB1 cable for the

filterboard, which is 5 pin with the middle one empty... hopefully my friend that repairs electronics can figure it out.

Also, i don't see a ground pin on CN13 in the image - the JST NH 25P connector - maybe take it from other connector?

Well i guess first things first is powering on the unit and get video output, then worry about SFX/BGM and finally controls.

Any suggestions, as always, are hugely appreciated

[Radin]

I put on paper the design of what will be the "control box"; ordered illuminated pushbuttons for start/view change; will assemble the box soon with some help and display here the results; basically it is a plastic enclosure with front and back panel; video converter will go inside also.

[Radin]

All is solved atm!

It seems that indeed some extra hardware is needed - a http://www.videotronicsuk.com/index.php?option=com_hikashop&ctrl=product&task=show&cid=197&Itemid=1;

this takes the music from the dsb1 and mixes it with the sound from the pcb set - my 5pin vs 4pin issue is solved.

If someone is interested, here is the link to the french forum where BigPanik helped me figure it out:

http://www.gamoover.net/Forums/index.php?topic=25913.0

I figured it out in reply nr 15.

Fingers crossed now, i have all i need to make this work on the way - minus the mix board, but i think i can buy that at Videotronics.

[RamjetR]

Hi Radin... great to hear you got it sorted.

I've spent the last week and a bit in bed recovering from surgery so I wasn't able to get down to the garage and open the cabinet to check. Glad you got it sorted out and looking forward to seeing some youtube footage of your setup.

[Radin]

Hi Ramjet, i wish you a speedy recovery!

Will post soon i hope, all the pieces i need are either in post or stored at home.

[Radin]

The control box is done, all it needs is wiring added; here are the pics:

[Radin]

Hello again, i haven't wired the supergun yet, but all is ready in place, soon i should have it running.

As you can see on the pic of the front of the supergun, there is a DB25 connector for hooking up a gamepad/wheel; this will be for the analogue controls (steering,brake,accelerate) and shift up/down digitals; the plan is to get a pc gamepad (first a gamepad to see if all is ok, later a wheel) and connect the controls from the supergun (pcb) to the gamepad's analog potentiometers - > mini analog joystick for steering, shoulder analogs for brake/accel. and 2 of the digitals for shift up/down.

So i need a cheap (test) gamepad with analog stick(s) and 2 analog buttons; best i found was this:

http://www.logitech.com/en-us/gaming/controllers/gamepad-f310

A little pricy for a test gamepad, so if any of you have other suggestions please let me know (or know that this gamepad is appropiate for what i described).

Also, would any potentiometer work from any gamepad work? Or they need to be 5K / 10K ohms (meaning i need to measure from pcb/check schematics in detail)?

[JasonRain]

The DSB isn't needed to boot the game, but it does mix the game audio with the game music and outputs that to the amp in the cabinet.

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