Drilling a Sega 5575 lock?

[dgame]

Any tips on drilling the Sega 5575 lock?

I have ordered new locks and keys but I suspect the coin box will be a different key.

The coin box is the only one still locked on my cab.

I won't try to drill until after I get the new locks and try the key.

If the key doesn't open the coin box how do I drill the lock to get it open?

This is the lock:


This is the key:



Should I drill at the center of the keyhole?

OR

Should I drill at the center of the entire lock?

Thanks!

[bkenobi]

If you have access to all other areas of the cab, can you get to the back of the coin door?  If so, is it possible to remove the entire door to access the back of the lock?  You can see the coin door from some machines but not others, so it's worth a shot.

[dgame]

The door is the coin valut box in the bottom right:




From inside:


From behind:


I don't think there is a way to get into that coin box without bypassing the lock.

Should I drill at the center of the keyhole?

OR

Should I drill at the center of the entire lock?

Thanks!

[lilshawn]

I would try jamming a large flat screwdriver in that lock and using a pair of vice grips try and turn it.

failing that. go for the center of the lock. (not slot)

[MonMotha]

I don't know what the lock design is like on the Sega cabs, but on the SNK Neo cabs, you can, with access to the main interior of the cabinet, get to the cam on the coin vault lock since it sticks up through a slot.  What I did to break in was take a big flat screwdriver, rest it on the cam at an angle, and give the other end a good whack with a hammer.  The lock did not survive, and the vault was easily opened.  No mess, no fuss.

[paigeoliver]

How nice is the cabinet. If it is so, so, then just pry it open with a big flathead screwdriver and then bend the door back straight with a vise grip when you are done.

Otherwise, go buy a half inch bit (preferably one with a guarantee), and drill that lock on out. Take a lot of breaks to avoid overheating and breaking the bit.

[lilshawn]

How nice is the cabinet. If it is so, so, then just pry it open with a big flathead screwdriver and then bend the door back straight with a vise grip when you are done.

Otherwise, go buy a half inch bit (preferably one with a guarantee), and drill that lock on out. Take a lot of breaks to avoid overheating and breaking the bit.

yes...and use plenty of lube (oil, wd-40, whatever.) running a drill bit dry is only going to make it dull (as most often the lock is made of hardened steel.) and will make drilling very difficult towards the end.

you're going to reach a point where you are going to want to stop and try to turn what's left of the tumbler (to feel like a master safe cracker)... Don't, it's just a big pain in the butt. keep on drilling straight through. once you are through the door will swing right open.

[JoeB]

OH GOD .. PLEASE DON'T DESTROY IT!

The keys can be had for less than 20$ for the pair (I got them shipped from Australia for that cost!)  It's the same key for all 5575 locks .. If you get the key, you'll get the authentic restoration which most people look for and value.

Yes, you can remove it, and put the same lock as found on all american wooden cabs, but then, it won't be right.  It's not the way these things were originally made.

[paigeoliver]

Lock style is generally not considered to be part of an arcade game restoration. If it is then someone should tell the people over at the klov forums. Most people use the 641 locks that Bob Roberts sells.

[JoeB]

Lock style is generally not considered to be part of an arcade game restoration. If it is then someone should tell the people over at the klov forums. Most people use the 641 locks that Bob Roberts sells.

It all depends on what you want to be "original".  Some people scuff at MAME as well. To each their own I guess. For me, personally, the locks are are important as the coins mech used in a restoration.

[paigeoliver]

I am mostly into real games. Have 21 of them at the moment and have owned a couple hundred over the years and this is literally the first time I ever heard anyone say anything at all about unoriginal locks.

Lock style is generally not considered to be part of an arcade game restoration. If it is then someone should tell the people over at the klov forums. Most people use the 641 locks that Bob Roberts sells.

It all depends on what you want to be "original".  Some people scuff at MAME as well. To each their own I guess. For me, personally, the locks are are important as the coins mech used in a restoration.

[MonMotha]

It seems pretty rare that I end up with a cabinet with an original lock, even when the cabinet is otherwise in really good shape.

A lot of operators change them out because they have keyed-alike locks for their games.  Operators actually running cash (common in Japan) would also, I'd think, be a bit squeamish about using a cashbox lock that's keyed-alike with all the other cabinets from that maker with easily acquirable keys.

Honestly, on most of my games (which are basically all weird, dedicated monsters), I don't even know what the factory locks were.  I don't think I've ever seen any two with the same locks.

Oddly, I do have what I believe to be the original OEM power cords for many of them.

[paigeoliver]

  Power cords. I try not to think about power cords, because if I break down and buy a new power cord for something then I have to admit to myself that almost all my games need new power cords and that can add up fast.

[SavannahLion]

Given the age and condition of the vast majority of power cords I've come across, replacing them isn't an option and is already budgeted accordingly. Even if I was doing a true restore, these power cords are rarely ever part of the equation.  Only time it was ever an issue was trying to find a suitable replacement for those cotton or silk woven cables. Most of those replacements are never duplicatable since the damn patterns seems to change almost monthly.

To put it more simply. I would rather shell out the cash to replace every power cord to every one of my cabs than to risk losing every single one of the cabs, and everything I own, in a fire.

[lilshawn]

Given the age and condition of the vast majority of power cords I've come across, replacing them isn't an option and is already budgeted accordingly. Even if I was doing a true restore, these power cords are rarely ever part of the equation.  Only time it was ever an issue was trying to find a suitable replacement for those cotton or silk woven cables. Most of those replacements are never duplicatable since the damn patterns seems to change almost monthly.

To put it more simply. I would rather shell out the cash to replace every power cord to every one of my cabs than to risk losing every single one of the cabs, and everything I own, in a fire.

properly fusing things prevents more fires than replacing cords.

i've seen far too much of this:

[JoeB]

I am mostly into real games. Have 21 of them at the moment and have owned a couple hundred over the years and this is literally the first time I ever heard anyone say anything at all about unoriginal locks.

Hey .. no disrespect.. I understand that you've been a long time member of this community, but I wonder .. of the "couple hundred" that you owned, how many were candy cabs?  You see, on woody's, being picky with the lock is like being picky with the bolts that hold your monitor frame down -- who gives a $%#$ .. right?

But SEGA made only 2 locks for candy cabs: 5575 (which are typically found under the control panel, locking it down) and 5380 (used for main panel, coin mech door, and coin box door).  In both cases, Sega went out of their way to create a unique lock cylinder.  In addition, all the keys have a nice looking Sega logo carved into them.

I wouldn't be surprised that even in Japan all these locks are replaced with generic tubular locks.  But if you were to order a Sega candy cab for home use in Japan, you would get these 5575/5380 locks.

So OP.. you can drill the lock out, put generic tubular locks on, and treat your candy cab as a "survivor" -- proudly wear its scars/cigarette burns/yellowed bezels/dinged body/etc in your collection.  Or you can restore the body, restore the monitor, get new overlays, joysticks, and buttons and bring it back to show room condition.  Having the 5575/5380 locks + keys will complete the restoration.

I know all this sounds a bit anal .. but how different is that from people that want coin doors with Atari written on them, or look for a specific volano style button in a specific color? 

If these locks weren't that important for a restoration, they wouldn't be selling for 45$+ per lock/2 key set or 25$ + shipping for just the keys.  I know that most people on this forum focus on restoring or building new woody cabs (I was one of them with my first MAME machine back in 2003) But for those restoring candy cabs (more popular in Europe, Asia, and Australia) having original SEGA locks is very important.

(.. and yes, I did pay that much to get 3 sets of 5380 locks/keys to complete my Sega New Astro City restoration -- I already have 2 5575 locks + set of 2 keys)

[paigeoliver]

The only candy cabinet I ever owned is a Super Neo 29, and boy do I miss it.

[SavannahLion]

Given the age and condition of the vast majority of power cords I've come across, replacing them isn't an option and is already budgeted accordingly. Even if I was doing a true restore, these power cords are rarely ever part of the equation.  Only time it was ever an issue was trying to find a suitable replacement for those cotton or silk woven cables. Most of those replacements are never duplicatable since the damn patterns seems to change almost monthly.

To put it more simply. I would rather shell out the cash to replace every power cord to every one of my cabs than to risk losing every single one of the cabs, and everything I own, in a fire.

properly fusing things prevents more fires than replacing cords.

i've seen far too much of this:

I've got my own horror stories about those damned rigged fuses. You have a perfectly valid point but no "properly fused cab" is going to do any good if the cord between wall socket and cabinet is nothing more than a twine of copper and a crumbling jacket. I'd rather take steps to avoid testing my fuses unnecesarily.

note: fixed glaring typo.

[dgame]

Thanks for the advice everyone.

As stated in the first post I have ordered all new 5575 locks and keys.

So in the end it will still have authentic locks on it.

I've read where the coin box can be a different 5575 type key and this is why I posted the drilling question.

The coin box lock is the 5575 type so hopefully the same key will work.

The cabinet is in good shape so no prying the door open.

The other locks seem to have been accessed by loosening the locks from behind so the previous owner probably did not have the key.

The cabinet is a Bass Fishing/Blast City and it uses a regular PC power cord so I replaced the power cord with a new one.  


JoeB,

I have ordered all the parts to bring it back to near stock condition.

I have a clean 27" Wells D9200 tube already. Waiting for a working chassis to arrive.

I'm going with the stock 2L12B green/pink Blast City control panel but with two U360's for PC based emulation.

Project thread: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=120617.0

[JoeB]

That's awesome ..

will be watching your thread.

[JoeB]

got more keys today .. Minty new looking. Here's where you can find them:

http://www.zax.com.au/home.html

[dgame]

Thanks for the link.

My parts are on the way from Japan.

I'll post my source after I get the parts and hopefully everything goes well.
 

[dgame]

I received the parts from Japan yesterday.

The 5575 key opens all of the locks on my Blast City cabinet. 

This is where I bought the parts from:

http://www.sophia-corp.jp/