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Author Topic: Mounting a Sanwa JLF on the UAC2 control panel *UPDATE*  (Read 1987 times)

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nateious

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Mounting a Sanwa JLF on the UAC2 control panel *UPDATE*
« on: May 09, 2012, 09:33:18 am »
First off, I'm not sure if this should go under the main forum or woodworking so I apologize if it's in the wrong area.  

So this is my first cabinet, I ordered the UAC2 and control panel from mameroom because my woodworking skills are fairly low and I don't have great access to tools. (As a side I'm pretty impressed with the quality of this kit so far)  I made good progress on the build (at least for a newbie :) ) last night, the control panel is mostly together and partially wired (doing the ground loop first).  I have 5  Sanwa joysticks to mount (JLF-TP-8YT-K I believe, they are the ones with the metal mounting plate)  I put one joystick in position to get an idea of how it would look and noticed that the shaft was way to short if I mounted it from the bottom.  I've done  a bit of searching on the forums before posting this and did find a top mounting guide (http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=90467.0) but I don't have most of those tools.  I'm on a fairly tight budget, so while some small purchases would work I can't go out and buy a bunch of new power tools (I could prob get a cheap jigsaw but routers are out, plus i've never used one)

For reference I have access to the following tools:
1 Dremel with various attachments
2 power drills (1 corded, 1 portable)
1 Hacksaw
1 Lowes giftcard :P which I could turn into a jigsaw or other cheap power tool or bits / attachments for the drill or dremel (around $50 - $60)  
Various hammers

I figured I could do one of 2 things and I'm not sure which is best.

1. I could try to get a router bit for the dremel and cut out an indentation in the bottom of the control panel, but I'm not sure how deep I can make that without compromising the structural integrity of the panel (I think it's MDF), nor do I know how well the dremel would work as a router.

2. I could cut a hole that the joystick itself would fit through (like in that top mounting guide) and put the mount plate on top.  This might be easier, but then the mount plate would be visible and I don't know if the dremel with a router bit is good enough to cut out an indentation so that the mount plate is flush with the panel.

Any ideas or suggestions would be most appreciated, or if someone knows I could so something with the tools I have access too that I didn't think of, please let me know.

*Update*

I just found out that my neighbor has a router and will let me use it, so now I pretty much have just 1 question, about how far into the MDF can I safely rout without affecting structural integrity.  I think it's 3/4 inch, but I will check when I get home.
« Last Edit: May 09, 2012, 12:18:15 pm by nateious »

ahofle

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I ended up bottom mounting and using shaft extenders like these:
http://shadaloo.eu/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=&product_id=126&category_id=7&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=14

They look great, but I may end up getting a stiffer spring to compensate for the longer shaft.

nateious

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I ended up bottom mounting and using shaft extenders like these:
http://shadaloo.eu/index.php?page=shop.product_details&flypage=&product_id=126&category_id=7&option=com_virtuemart&Itemid=14

They look great, but I may end up getting a stiffer spring to compensate for the longer shaft.

Hmm neat though I don't' like how it would not allow the use of the cover.  However as I now will have access to a router I think I'll pass.  This is more of a woodworking question now, maybe a mod can move the thread?

BadMouth

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