T-molding around *ENTIRE* side?

[mcseforsale]

Just wondering if anyone t-molding's the entire side of the cab...bottom too?

AJ

[Nephasth]

Yup.

[saint]

Yep. It's not just for looks, it also helps protect the exposed edge of the wood.

[mcseforsale]

Dammit!   

I didn't route the bottoms of the sides and the thing's almost done.  Sides are painted, etc. etc.  I just now thought of it.   

AJ

[DaveMMR]

Dammit!   

I didn't route the bottoms of the sides and the thing's almost done.  Sides are painted, etc. etc.  I just now thought of it.   

AJ

You can still route it.  Just pop it on it's side and finish the job (mind any screws you may have used though).  If you hurt the paint, touch it up.

[mcseforsale]

Dammit!!   

I'll have to gut it...unplug everything, etc. 



AJ

[mcseforsale]

One thing I did do was seal all the edges with wood glue/water.  The edges are rock hard, but I'm not sure how far in it penetrated.  Dammit.  I have to order more t-molding, too!!   

/---smurfette--- off

AJ

[Dervacumen]

Before you do that, think about what you'll gain vs. what the time is you'll spend.  I've never seen an arcade machine with molding all the way around.  I also move my custom cabinet about 10 feet a year, mostly in 1 1/2 foot increments.  And it's on carpet, in my house.  The chances of me dinging up a corner are pretty slim.  I've had this cabinet for 5 years or so.  If I were at your stage I wouldn't waste the time or effort for such little payoff.  If you're planning on lugging it around, maybe.  Even then, it's not hard to move cabinets without screwing up the bottom corners.  You just need to *want* to not screw them up.  Unlike arcade operators of old, who wanted to get them from A-->B as fast as possible regardless of esthetics.

[P-chan]

Yep. It's not just for looks, it also helps protect the exposed edge of the wood.

Mine is going to be resting on my basement carpet, I think it'll be good.  I don't plan on T-molding the bottoms unless I have extra T-molding (which I doubt).

[Vigo]

+1 to Dervacumen.

I never have seen any commercial cabs with molding on the bottoms. Yeah, that is part of the reason why you see so much bottom damage on old commercial arcade machines, but they were also handled harshly on a routine basis for 10-30 years. Although I am not coin-op industry expert, I think that is why plinths on the bottoms of cabinets were popular in the 80's. It was a wood base that was replaceable from bottom damage, while the rest of the cabinet wasn't.

I think as long as you treat your cab carefully, there is no need to worry. Of course there are other additional things you can do to keep the bottom of your cab safe, like keep it on carpeting or put an area rug underneath. I find that when I have my cabinet on hardwood flooring, it is also easier on my feet to put a little rug there and I can play more comfortably. I have never tried it, but I am sure the felt stuff you put underneath furniture might be a good option as well.

[Mysterioii]

My t-molding only wraps around to the underside by a few inches.  It's sitting on carpet too, and I had found some of the teflon-style sliders (not felt or carpet-like) that were narrow strips about 3 inches long and just about 3/4" wide.  Adhesive backed, think I probably got them at Home depot (7 years ago).  I think I put 3 or 4 of them on each side, you can barely see them even if you know to look for them and the whole cab slides pretty well on the carpet.

[mcseforsale]

Thanks guys.  In the melee, I *did* order another 20 feet of t-molding from arcademolding.com (free member plug...*KAPOW*!!).   But, my "I've got all the toys" neighbor's been sniffing around asking about a bartop, so I may just build him one out of an old PC and 15" LCD I have laying around. 


Like I said, I used 3 parts wood glue, 1 part water and "painted" all of the exposed edges right after cutting/machining.  When that was dry, 100 grit paper could BARELY smooth it down, it was so hard.  So, I'm not too worried.  I'm also doing black/black, so it won't be noticed.

I'm more worried about moving it than the t-molding anyway.  I have to go down the hill around the house and in through a 33" door.  So, I'll have to take it apart anyway.  Looks like I'll have to borrow a hand-truck from someone...

Again...thanks for the help.  It puts my mind at ease.

AJ

[JayB]

My main machine has large metal L shaped strips along the side panels, painted the same and doesn't detract from the visual in any way. They came with the machine from an arcade.

[Mysterioii]

These look like the same sliders I used...  Looks like they're 25mm wide so just about an inch.  If you're gonna put your cab on carpet and don't have wheels/casters under it I really recommend something like this...  it stays very stationary, it's not like it's sliding around all over the place.  But when you WANT it to move, it's much easier.

http://www.wizardsliders.com/en/ProductsView.asp?ID=11&SortID=1

[wp34]

If you would have laminated your cabinet I would be worried about T-molding on the bottom.  I moved mine before putting T-molding on and caused a small chip in the corner.   

With paint I wouldn't give it a second thought at this point.  If something does get chipped you can easily touch it up and it will never be noticed.

[kahlid74]

I T-molded around the entire cab because I wanted to protect the wood.  If you're careful with it, you should be fine.  You can finish it if you want but it may be a lot of work.  It may also be something you can do a few years from now after you examine whether it will really move or not.

[mcseforsale]

Thanks guys.  Yes, it's on 3" casters.  It's about 5/8" above the ground.  I will be going in a basement that has berber carpet and probably hardly ever moved.  I think I'm OK.

And, I have some t-molding coming for my neighbor's bartop 

AJ