In my experience, all routers that accept 1/2" shanks also come with a 1/4" adapter. What are you looking to do with the router? What type of joinery are you looking to accomplish. There are certain things that should not be done with a handheld router. For most joinery, you will need to table mount it. For dovetails with a jig, a 1/4" shanked bit is fine. Larger bits like panel raising sets need to be done in a table and at a lower speed so a variable speed router is essential.
Actually that's a good point, it's all kind of TBD really. I'd like to try my hand at some really simple low bookcases and toy chests for my little girl, maybe put together a new control panel for myself, do the edge slots for T-molding. Would I build a full size arcade cabinet from scratch? Maybe some day but not just yet, I've got a kit cab now that I'm looking to improve upon and I'd have to start small and hone some basic skills before tackling something big. I've got a biscuit cutter and have done some doweling too so I could put together some basic boxes without the advanced joining, but I just came across those bit sets on ebay and it got me thinking.
So, why exactly would you say that you have to use a router table for joinery? I was just contemplating earlier today if I really needed a router table or not. Assuming I've already got my edges cut straight, isn't the whole point of a handheld router that you can go around the edge perfectly and the bearing keeps you lined up dead on? How does the table really improve on that? I can see ease-of-use but how does it actually improve upon a bearing and base plate physically preventing you from moving the bit further into the wood?
Of course, I've never used one before so I'm probably oversimplifying... I really am curious to hear your thoughts.