Monitor/PSU Question (bartop build)

[EvilGreenDevil]

OK I have been holding off on posting this question for a while because I was determined to find the answer through some research on my own. After a lot of googling and thread skimming, I am still stuck.

It's my first build and its a bartop cabinet so space it tight. I basically bought a whole new computer system (nothing too fancy) for the build except for a monitor. I saved a 17" 4:3 lcd from my college days and I'm glad I did. Here's a link

http://reviews.cnet.com/lcd-monitors/syncmaster-710t-17-inch/1707-3174_7-30909228.html

I've read all over the place about wiring your monitor to the PSU so long as everything stays properly grounded and there's enough power output from the PSU. My question is that based on the specs of the monitor (listed in the link), would it even be possible to wire to a standard 450w PSU?

I know the PSUs that I have beeen looking at have 12V rails to work with. Call me crazy but 12V doesn't really translate to the 110v-220v that the monitor needs and that comes from the wall.

Sorry for the rookie question but I feel like I can't find the answer I'm looking for.

[Bramlet]

You probably know this but both your computer power supply and the monitor take in 120 volts AC and convert to various voltages DC.

Nobody is powering their monitor off the 12v rails unless they are bypassing the monitors internal transformer since the 12v rail is already DC. Your monitor does run on DC but takes in AC and converts to DC. So you will need to be bypassing the monitors internal power supply cicuitry.

You could probably do it but you would need to be opening the monitor and finding an appropriate place to solder wires out of the power supply.

[GregD]

 Is the power supply inside the monitor or does it have an external power brick?

[BobA]

If it has a power brick you can determine the voltage and the amperage of the brick.  It says your monitor uses 34 watts so at 12 V that is close to 3 amps at 120V it is .3 amps.   If it is a 12V brick you can usually supply your monitor from it but if its not 12v you will have to use the brick to supply power.  The latest monitor I used had a 19V DC brick so I had to put the brick in the cab since 19V was not available.

The brick or monitor should also show what the polarity of your plug is.  This is essential to know if you are plugging into your computer's 12V rail.

[Crono22]

If your unsure could just use a powerstrip and stick it somewhere.

[EvilGreenDevil]

The monitor has a simple power cable that runs directly from the wall outlet into the back of the monitor which reads 110/220v. I don't think I will be opening up the back of the monitor.

Regarding the 12v rail, I might have misspoke as I really am unsure how the wiring is handling on the power supply side. Every picture I see and thread I read shows a female cable coming out of the top of the PSU that's connected to the monitor's male cable.

reference: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=110343.0;all

and  Randy T's original advice: http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php?topic=111325.msg1181554#msg1181554

As for a powerstrip option, I would rather not. I'm sure I could find a way to cram a smartstrip in there but I am convinced I can go the PSU rout.

Now that I'm feeling like it's probably OK with my monitor, I'm still a little unsure on the specific wiring I need to do inside the PSU.

[BobA]

If you have a single power cable you need AC at whatever is common where you live. 110 or 220.  You cannot use the PC supply 12V as your monitor has a power supply inside that converts line voltage to DC.

[kahlid74]

If you have a single power cable you need AC at whatever is common where you live. 110 or 220.  You cannot use the PC supply 12V as your monitor has a power supply inside that converts line voltage to DC.

This.

Also, I saw you say you didn't want to open the monitor but as Bramlet said before, the only way to do this is to bypass the monitors internal power supply.  If you really want to do this it's not that tough, but you're going to have to get dirty and inside that monitor.

[BobA]

It depends what DC power is being supplied by the PS inside the monitor.   If is not 12V and 5V you still cannot hook to a computer supply.   Some monitors use voltages that are not standard so you would have to get the schematic of the monitor PS before even bothering to open it up. It is probably 12V but you cannot be 100% certain.

[EvilGreenDevil]

It depends what DC power is being supplied by the PS inside the monitor.   If is not 12V and 5V you still cannot hook to a computer supply.   Some monitors use voltages that are not standard so you would have to get the schematic of the monitor PS before even bothering to open it up. It is probably 12V but you cannot be 100% certain.

did some searching and came up with an article that tears down the monitor for repair so now I'm following what you're saying. I also noted a close-up of the power supply board that shows the power inputs and outputs which reads 5V and 13V....correct?

http://www.ccl-la.com/blog/index.php/repairing-the-samsung-syncmaster-710t/

[BobA]

Yes it shows 13vdc so your 12v on the computer PS may not be up to the task.  I also see some vrms voltages that look like your monitor uses some AC voltages stepped down so if You want to keep it running keep the AC supply to the monitor and allow it to convert to what it needs.

[dandare]

Hi.
I had a similar desire with my first bartop.  Similar monitor too.

I just ended up cutting the IEC cable plug off and wiring it to a socket, then using a split cable to the mains.
That way its still just 1 cable to power it all.

I fitted it to the back panel just above the atx's socket.  1 socket would have been nice but this was a happy compromise.

[EvilGreenDevil]

Hi.
I had a similar desire with my first bartop.  Similar monitor too.

I just ended up cutting the IEC cable plug off and wiring it to a socket, then using a split cable to the mains.
That way its still just 1 cable to power it all.

I fitted it to the back panel just above the atx's socket.  1 socket would have been nice but this was a happy compromise.

I'm seriously debating this option. I noticed another thread that walks through this process and I might just settle with this.