Blaupunkt IS 70-33 VTN monitor spec

[Paradroid]

Alright, reset. Fresh start.

I know that I've taken up heaps of Calamity's time with my exploration of Loewe and Grundig SCART televisions. I've learned a lot and had a lot of fun and now have a great collection of interesting TVs. However, what I would like to do is go back to the beginning, armed with the knowledge I now have. I know there's still lots for me to learn but I believe I've at least worked out what hardware has potential to work well with GroovyMAME and also what doesn't. With this in mind, I'd like to put aside the digital chassis TVs for a while and concentrate on a SCART TV with analog image controls. My suspicion is that this process will be far more straight forward and more inline with the setup procedures for a real arcade monitor. We'll see if that eventuates but I reckon I might be right.

Here goes:

Model: Blaupunkt IS 70-33 VTN
Chassis: 310.32 (identical to Grundig CUC 5360 and Siemens 9106)

Chassis controls:

Line width (R412 = 1k)
Horizontal frequency (R506 = 4k7)
Horizontal linearity (? - can't locate)
Horizontal picture position (R558 = 470R)
East-West amplitude (R422 = 100k)
East-West symmetry (? - can't locate)
Frame amplitude (R561 = 100 ohm)
Vertical frequency (R516 = 680k)
Vertical linearity (R549 = 10k)
Vertical picture position (R431 = 2k2)
Focus control (neck board)
Trapezium (R441 = 220k)

Note: the labels are those used in the service notes.

- - - - -

As a quick test I ran vmaker with the default settings and started GroovyMAME with the "CGA" monitor type. Next, I started up R-Type and adjusted the trimpots. The image looked great and I was able to get the geometry and size really good. After admiring the smooth GroovyMAME scrolling for a while I then sparked up Street Fighter 2. After adjusting ONLY height everything was basically perfect! Well centered (horizontal and vertical) and no defects in the image shape! WOW!

After all the discussion I've had here in the past regarding the more modern TVs, I can conclude that the digital chassis I've tried simply won't work in this way. This business of spinning one trimpot (vertical size) is SO much faster (and delivers better results) than adjusting the V-Size on, e.g. a Loewe. On the digital chassis, other things inevitably change e.g. image shape, width, etc. as the vertical size changes.

Now I know why Calamity has sometimes been a little surprised at some of the things I've reported! Analog acts VERY differently. Better, overall.

Anyway, what I'd like to do is walk through the process of setting up GroovyMAME for this particular TV. I'm gonna focus on this TV until the setup is as good as it can possibly get. No distractions.

So, the TV has all those controls, my computer is setup ready to go (still using the ATI X300). Calamity, if you have the patience, it'd be great if you can walk me through this knowing that this TV probably isn't going to throw the same curve balls as the units we've worked on in the past. Assuming it's going to act more like a regular arcade monitor, what's the very first step to create fine tuned monitor spec? (As always with me, priority is being able jump between CPS and M72 games and have everything look good.) If we can go step-by-step, I'll then edit this thread down so I can re-post on my blog (and other places) as a guide for others to follow.

Also, my big idea is that, if this works out, I could modify the TV to have a larger pot mounted on the front of the casing to adjust V-size (assuming it's feasible to patch a pot to the chassis). I reckon then I'd be pretty much set!

(I've included some pics of the hardware so you can get a feel for what I'm working with).

[Paradroid]

In case it's of use...

[Calamity]

Looks like a really nice set!

Basic steps are, in this order:

1 - Finding Hfreq ranges
2 - Finding Vfreq ranges
3 - Finding vertical retrace time (minimum required will be our default VBP)
4 - Finding horizontal minimum porches (we assume HSP will be 4.7)

You can just use Arcade_OSD to fulfill those basic steps, it's only it can be a bit tricky to know how to get the individual values. The tricky part is that sometimes you get a garbled screen when trying to find the hfreq ranges, but not necessarily because you reached the hfreq limit, but because some of the other values (sync pulses, etc.) went out of range. You learn how to avoid this out of experience.

Also, my big idea is that, if this works out, I could modify the TV to have a larger pot mounted on the front of the casing to adjust V-size (assuming it's feasible to patch a pot to the chassis). I reckon then I'd be pretty much set! Smiley

You know, that has been an idea of mine for a long time 
I used to imagine it as a big chromed pot like the volume pot in car radios   
I just don't have the skills to solder and stuff.

[Paradroid]

1 - Finding Hfreq ranges

Okay, so, if this is the first step can you tell me the most sensible way to feel out some approximate lower and upper Hfreq limits using Arcade_OSD? So far, when experimenting, I just slowly changes values and watch out for any kind of image distortion then note the maximum/minimum values of Hfreq.

Basically, I'd like to know the exact steps you would take if you were sitting in front of this TV of mine.

You know, that has been an idea of mine for a long time
I used to imagine it as a big chromed pot like the volume pot in car radios   

Cool! So, it sounds feasible to you? I wouldn't have any problems finding a 100 ohm pot (assuming the "Frame amplitude" translates to V-size/height). Soldering is way easier than coding you know...

[Calamity]

Well there's a direct way to find the highest hfreq admitted. Set a 256-line mode in Arcade_OSD, unlock the vfreq, and start increasing the dotclock: vfreq and hfreq will increase too. However, because it's a 256-line mode, hfreq limit will be reached before vfreq limit. That's how I'd do it.

But there's a probably easier way to get both lower and higher hfreq limits, aproximated at least. Use the standard monitor_specs line in VMMaker but edit it for a wider hfreq range:

monitor_specs_0 = "15100-16700, 49.50-65.00, 2.000, 4.700, 8.000, 0.064, 0.160, 1.056, 0, 0, 288, 448"

Then create a ReslList.txt file with the test modes we discussed:

Code: [Select]

## Desktop ##

 640 x 480 @ 30.000000 desktop

## Test ##

 320 x 224 @ 50.000000 test
 320 x 224 @ 51.000000 test
 320 x 224 @ 52.000000 test
 320 x 224 @ 53.000000 test
 320 x 224 @ 54.000000 test
 320 x 224 @ 55.000000 test
 320 x 224 @ 56.000000 test
 320 x 224 @ 57.000000 test
 320 x 224 @ 58.000000 test
 320 x 224 @ 59.000000 test
 320 x 224 @ 60.000000 test
 320 x 224 @ 61.000000 test

 320 x 240 @ 50.000000 test
 320 x 240 @ 51.000000 test
 320 x 240 @ 52.000000 test
 320 x 240 @ 53.000000 test
 320 x 240 @ 54.000000 test
 320 x 240 @ 55.000000 test
 320 x 240 @ 56.000000 test
 320 x 240 @ 57.000000 test
 320 x 240 @ 58.000000 test
 320 x 240 @ 59.000000 test
 320 x 240 @ 60.000000 test
 320 x 240 @ 61.000000 test

 320 x 248 @ 50.000000 test
 320 x 248 @ 51.000000 test
 320 x 248 @ 52.000000 test
 320 x 248 @ 53.000000 test
 320 x 248 @ 54.000000 test
 320 x 248 @ 55.000000 test
 320 x 248 @ 56.000000 test
 320 x 248 @ 57.000000 test
 320 x 248 @ 58.000000 test
 320 x 248 @ 59.000000 test
 320 x 248 @ 60.000000 test
 320 x 248 @ 61.000000 test

 320 x 256 @ 50.000000 test
 320 x 256 @ 51.000000 test
 320 x 256 @ 52.000000 test
 320 x 256 @ 53.000000 test
 320 x 256 @ 54.000000 test
 320 x 256 @ 55.000000 test
 320 x 256 @ 56.000000 test
 320 x 256 @ 57.000000 test
 320 x 256 @ 58.000000 test
 320 x 256 @ 59.000000 test
 320 x 256 @ 60.000000 test
 320 x 256 @ 61.000000 test

 320 x 264 @ 50.000000 test
 320 x 264 @ 51.000000 test
 320 x 264 @ 52.000000 test
 320 x 264 @ 53.000000 test
 320 x 264 @ 54.000000 test
 320 x 264 @ 55.000000 test
 320 x 264 @ 56.000000 test
 320 x 264 @ 57.000000 test
 320 x 264 @ 58.000000 test
 320 x 264 @ 59.000000 test
 320 x 264 @ 60.000000 test
 320 x 264 @ 61.000000 test

 320 x 272 @ 50.000000 test
 320 x 272 @ 51.000000 test
 320 x 272 @ 52.000000 test
 320 x 272 @ 53.000000 test
 320 x 272 @ 54.000000 test
 320 x 272 @ 55.000000 test
 320 x 272 @ 56.000000 test
 320 x 272 @ 57.000000 test
 320 x 272 @ 58.000000 test
 320 x 272 @ 59.000000 test
 320 x 272 @ 60.000000 test
 320 x 272 @ 61.000000 test

 320 x 280 @ 50.000000 test
 320 x 280 @ 51.000000 test
 320 x 280 @ 52.000000 test
 320 x 280 @ 53.000000 test
 320 x 280 @ 54.000000 test
 320 x 280 @ 55.000000 test
 320 x 280 @ 56.000000 test
 320 x 280 @ 57.000000 test
 320 x 280 @ 58.000000 test
 320 x 280 @ 59.000000 test
 320 x 280 @ 60.000000 test
 320 x 280 @ 61.000000 test

 320 x 288 @ 50.000000 test
 320 x 288 @ 51.000000 test
 320 x 288 @ 52.000000 test
 320 x 288 @ 53.000000 test
 320 x 288 @ 54.000000 test
 320 x 288 @ 55.000000 test
 320 x 288 @ 56.000000 test
 320 x 288 @ 57.000000 test
 320 x 288 @ 58.000000 test
 320 x 288 @ 59.000000 test
 320 x 288 @ 60.000000 test
 320 x 288 @ 61.000000 test

Now generate the modes. You'll end up with a table that contains nearly all the variants. I'd use the 320x256 series to find hfreq limits. Probably upper and lower modes won't work:

Modeline "320x256_50 15.10KHz 49.99Hz" 6.400 320 336 368 424 256 270 272 302 -hsync -vsync
Modeline "320x256_51 15.10KHz 51.00Hz" 6.400 320 336 368 424 256 267 269 296 -hsync -vsync
Modeline "320x256_52 15.12KHz 51.97Hz" 6.410 320 336 368 424 256 265 267 291 -hsync -vsync
Modeline "320x256_53 15.10KHz 52.97Hz" 6.400 320 336 368 424 256 262 264 285 -hsync -vsync
Modeline "320x256_54 15.12KHz 54.01Hz" 6.410 320 336 368 424 256 259 261 280 -hsync -vsync
Modeline "320x256_55 15.12KHz 54.99Hz" 6.410 320 336 368 424 256 257 259 275 -hsync -vsync
Modeline "320x256_56 15.45KHz 55.98Hz" 6.550 320 336 368 424 256 257 259 276 -hsync -vsync
Modeline "320x256_57 15.74KHz 57.02Hz" 6.670 320 336 368 424 256 257 260 276 -hsync -vsync
Modeline "320x256_58 16.06KHz 57.97Hz" 6.800 320 336 368 424 256 258 261 277 -hsync -vsync
Modeline "320x256_59 16.34KHz 58.98Hz" 6.920 320 336 368 424 256 258 261 277 -hsync -vsync
Modeline "320x256_60 16.62KHz 60.01Hz" 7.040 320 336 368 424 256 257 260 277 -hsync -vsync
Modeline "321x256_60 16.72KHz 60.34Hz" 7.080 320 336 368 424 256 257 260 277 -hsync -vsync

But as 50 and 60 Hz vfreqs are known to work (they should) and all modes fall within that range, the critical value should be hfreq.

[Paradroid]

Excellent info! Thanks! Will try ASAP.

[Paradroid]

Update: I didn't have much time tonight after work (friends for dinner) but I generated the test modes and switched through them. From what I can tell, the Hfreq limit is about 16.4 kHz. That's not exact, but I believe it's about there somewhere. That was determined purely by switching through the modes and noting how high it would go because producing a screen full of garbage.

I ran vmaker and generated the MAME mode table using a spec of 15000-16400. I didn't touch any other values, just left the default values that ship with vmaker. Restarted the computer and BAM! I'm as close to arcade heaven as I've ever been! Loaded up sf2 and twisted the so-called "frame amplitude" pot. BAM! Perfect border and geometry! Quit that and loaded up R-Type. Twist the height pot. BAM! Perfect again! Side borders were great and the imaged was almost perfectly centered! Amazing! I tried a few other games (including some 240 line games) and they were all perfect after adjusting that one pot. Really frigging cool! Calamity, now I really "get" how truly awesome GroovyMAME can be!

There are a few small image issues (at 256 lines with full screen height, the top couple lines flicker) but, overall, this is WAY closer to a simple, working system than I ever got with the digital chassis TVs.

My testing hasn't been exhaustive but I'm already so close to where I want to be. I think from here on in I'll looking past the digital chassis types and going for anything analog. Just so much simpler and the actual image quality is more like how I remember things being back in 1989.

Oh, lastly, can anyone explain what the "vertical frequency" and "horizontal frequency" pots should do? These are foreign to me.

[Calamity]

That sounds very good indeed.

The flickering issues on the top might get solved by playing with the retrace time (not sure).

So that's basically the idea. If the chassis just accepts the signal as it is, without doing additional adjustments on its own, different height modelines should get centered automatically, as the borders we're adding when required for vfreq adjustment are equally divided in the top and the bottom. That's why you only need to manually adjust vertical amplitude, and it's how my arcade monitors behave by the way.

Oh, lastly, can anyone explain what the "vertical frequency" and "horizontal frequency" pots should do? These are foreign to me.

Well, not quite sure what they do on that particular chasis. The ones in my arcade monitor work like this: they're ranges that you can move up or down. So for instance, my monitor admits hfreqs within a range of 1 KHz, which can be adjusted as you want:

- 15.660 - 16.660 (this is the top adjustment)
- 15.200 - 16.200 (this is a lower adjustment)

Of course the best for me is the first adjustment, as it allows playing 256 games at 60 Hz, for instance 1942 rotated.

[Paradroid]

Well, not quite sure what they do on that particular chasis. The ones in my arcade monitor work like this: they're ranges that you can move up or down. So for instance, my monitor admits hfreqs within a range of 1 KHz, which can be adjusted as you want:

- 15.660 - 16.660 (this is the top adjustment)
- 15.200 - 16.200 (this is a lower adjustment)

Okay, great, makes sense. Thanks for the info. Should me easy enough for me to test out this theory on my chassis, yes? Just use Arcade_OSD to check the uppper/lower limits with the pot at both extremes? Am I thinking along the right lines?

[Calamity]

Okay, great, makes sense. Thanks for the info. Should me easy enough for me to test out this theory on my chassis, yes? Just use Arcade_OSD to check the uppper/lower limits with the pot at both extremes? Am I thinking along the right lines?

Yes, that's way, though I have no idea how that particular chasis works. Just be careful enough to remember the original position.

[Paradroid]

Damn. Just wrote a huge follow up post based on my experiments tonight and lost it due to an error uploading images. Oh well, should have copied my text before hitting "Post".

I'll try and relate my detailed observations sometime in future when I get over losing my epic post but here's the basic idea:

1. Adjusting the V and H frequency pots fixed the flickering lines. Cool.
2. I am now extremely close to having perfect geometry and centering by adjusting only the height pot when switching games (see the pics, ONLY the height was altered for each game, no other pots).
3. This experience makes me seriously doubt how useful digital chassis will ever be for fast mode switching (with perfect size and centering). This setup must literally be 50x faster for getting each mode right.

More to say when I gather my thoughts again but this has worked really, really well so far.

Thanks Calamity!

[Calamity]

Damn. Just wrote a huge follow up post based on my experiments tonight and lost it due to an error uploading images. Oh well, should have copied my text before hitting "Post".

Ooh, I know that feeling, hopefully you find the energies for a rewrite at some point...

Sounds great by now, seems like that TVs behaves just as we wanted.

[Paradroid]

I just ordered 6 panel mount pots in order to relocate the geometry controls from the back inside of the chassis to the front of the TV. In theory it should work. I know I have the soldering and wiring skills but drilling the mounting holes could end up being an adventure (better buy a drill too, I guess Or maybe use Dad's drill press... hmm). Amazingly, the range I ordered from (Vishay) contained all the values I needed for the 6 controls I want easy access to: H-size, H-position, V-size, V-position, pincushion and trapezium.

With those knobs lined up on the front, below the screen, I'll be able to get the picture absolutely spot-on for every mode. The idea will be, of course, to get as close as possible with GroovyMAME and then apply the final tweaks with hardware. Overkill, perhaps, but it'll be a fun project. Also, it'll mean that I can easily play games like Metal Slug full screen without the in built borders.

Plus, I'll have a cool looking customized TV.

[Calamity]

This is definitely a very interesting project!! I'm eager to see how you work this out, please document the process.

[Paradroid]

Yep, gave it a go and it worked great! Can't wait for my proper knobs to arrive now. Had a crazy day of TV hacking... really opened up Pandora's Box today. Was really fun though. I've got some pics of the patched controls on my blog.

[Calamity]

Hi Paradroid, I've read your last post and it absolutely rocks! 
I really don't know if that sort of customization has been tried before but it opens a new world of possibilites.
I mean it's definitely COOL to have those big beatiful pots lined up on the front of the TV. Even someone could come up with a method to use some sort of electronic potenciometers that could be software driven.
I have to go for today but I'll be following your progress enthusiastically.

[apfelanni]

such poti breakout / remote boards for tvs have been done before , but maybe the appearance wasnt that nice . if u consider cabbing the tv or keeping it for retro gaming , i ll advise to keep a backup tube . i guess its an old philips eak inside ur blaupunkt ( or videocolor ) , they were not bad , but cuc 5xxx was the pre black matrix generation of the early ninetees. they can be swapped like plug n play with a fresh one from around 2k if required .

[Paradroid]

Yep, I figured people would have done this kind of thing before. Sony PVMs have the knobs and buttons on the front but I guess regular TVs have the controls hidden away since users didn't really have a need to access them. However, as you mentioned, it's easy to make it work and have it look messy. I'll be going for the "works and looks very neat" option. We'll see if I can achieve that.

You're right about the screens: Phillips EAK. I had success changing out a later Phillips from a Loewe with a Grundig 4635 chassis but the Blaupunkt didn't like that same tube when I tried. The picture got shaky and the geometry was off. Any ideas? Either way, those later tubes have better colours and a darker black compared. I also like the polished glass finish on them.

@ Calamity: the digitally controlled potentiometer idea is a wild one! Imagine how complex your modeline engine would have to get in order to juggle all that! Still, a good second best will be having the adjustments easy to reach. Even with the breakout cables I have now with the trimpots it's very quick to get things exact.

[Paradroid]

Kicking myself tonight...

I ordered those Vishay pots from DigiKey and one of the values was out of stock so the order has to wait until the missing pot arrives. I just discovered that RS Components stocks the same type of pot and has a pick up service (call ahead and they get your order ready in 30 mins). Argh! Considering that when I get an idea I want to try it *right now* I wish I had of found these guys earlier. It was actually an eBay buyer of one of my Grundig TVs that told me about RS Components and also some other places just down the road that I didn't even know existed!

Patience... patience.

[mazinger-z]

What do you use to interface the VGA to the TV?
What kind of equipment do you use to align the chassis when swapping tubes?

[Paradroid]

@mazinger-z: Nothing that high-tech. More just a "fingers crossed, hope it doesn't blow up" approach. I can understand the wiring and read the H and V impedance but I'm just an ignorant hacker. I don't understand how this stuff actually works, just that it does.

I hook up the TVs using a VGA to SCART cable made to the following spec: VGA to SCART Converter.
      
      
      
      

[Paradroid]

Just a WIP update: I have 4 controls hooked up and it's working really well! Just need to add the last 2 controls and then mount the pots. Absolutely killer so far! Check out the pics here.

[Paradroid]

Soldered in the Pincushion and Trapezium pots tonight. I have 6 external controls in total now. It's all working very well. Really looking forward to mounting the pots into the television case as I think it'll be even faster to get things right when they're all lined up properly and I don't have to use two hands to adjust 1 pot (in fact, then I can twist 2 at a time! )

[Calamity]

Looking forward to seeing that finished. If I gather the some confidence I might some day try the same thing for my Hantarex 9110. The pots are mounted on a small board and though they can be accessed from the front of the cab they're too small and sensitive to handle them in a carefree way. A nice big potenciometer mounted on the exterior of the cab would be definitely cool.

[Paradroid]

Yeah, the final challenge is going to be the drilling. I want it to look really slick and so far, in my tests, all I can do is make nasty, messy holes in my plastic test panel. Either my equipment or technique (or both ) aren't right. I'll ask my Dad (he's a retired builder) and see what he says.

As you say, the emphasis is on "carefree". These Vishay pots are a good size and turn very easily. I probably could have gotten away just a vertical size pot but I'm pretty glad I went the whole hog. It's not that GroovyMAME doesn't do it's job right. More that some games have info you want (lives, credits, score, energy, etc.) hard against the edges whereas other games have these things inset. I can pause the game and adjust perfectly for each game with everything available out the front like this.

I got another identical chassis on the weekend (in a Siemens package for $10) so when I mod that I'll document it step-by-step. It'll be simple as "1, 2, 3" to apply to your Hantarex.

[apfelanni]

converting a tv into a studio monitor .. some time ago i thought of the other way round ..picking a modern nice vga or hdtv crt tv set or one of my nec xm 2960 multisyncs or a sony vga and convert em into a classic woody. problem is i lack the woodworking skills to get it perfectly done . isnt this old bush set a real beauty ?

[Paradroid]

@apfelanni: Yes! I love that idea! I've thought about that myself but more from the angle of making a wooden box from scratch (my Dad used to be a builder and teach furniture design). Unfortunately, he's no gamer at all so I don't think he'll ever have the motivation to help me with that. Those pics sure are cute though!

Speaking of conversions, apfelanni, I think you should "convert" an old analog Grundig TV into a cardboard box packed with bubble wrap and circuit boards. Then, you can write my address on in. Of course, I would pay you to do so and you can keep the tubes and plastic casing. Reason I mention this is that I looked on German eBay yesterday and almost cried when I saw the SCART TVs you have access to! I doubt that half those models even made it down to Australia...

[apfelanni]

ebay isnt such a good place searching for replacement tubes and chassis anymore , because sellers dont like the idea of giving away working ex 1000-2000 dm or euro tvs for 1 euro . most people think ebay isnt worth the effort and throw theire sets into the junk , no matter if they are ok or not . in case i need a special modell ill check this here or some other local platforms  :

http://kleinanzeigen.ebay.de/anzeigen/

if u need a backupchassis i can check my resources . the problem will be that such old 4xxx cuc chassis are getting rare. most are 2xxx chassis ( maybe 80-90 %) , the rest are cuc 4-7xxx . from cuc 3xxx or 4xxx (1990) around til 21xx (2004) ?  they all work well with the same philips tubes. for shipping calc check dhl website.   

[Paradroid]

Thanks, apfelanni. We've got great weather here in .au but Germany seems to be Mecca for SCART TVs...

As you would realise by now, I've been on quite a journey with SCART TVs but obviously I haven't covered the same amount of ground as yourself. I was feeling pretty good about the Loewes until I got into GroovyMAME and it subsequently revealed several deficiencies in the Loewes (talking about E3000 chassis and up here... haven't found anything earlier than that yet) despite their excellent image quality.

I've concluded that my favourite SCART TVs are those with analogue controls. They're quicker to adjust and seem to be from an era when extra image "enhancing" wasn't the norm. I've had 4 units with the Grundig CUC 5360 chassis but the absolute best I have tried was the CUC 4635. So, from that, I would say that I'd love to get my hands on another 4xxx but the 5xxx are also very good. I have plenty of Phillips tubes so if you could help me get hold of another 4/5xxx chassis I'd be very grateful. Aside from those series, I'm interested to know what other analog models you recommend (not only Grundig). Happy to pay all costs (eBay, packing, DHL, etc.) and reciprocate in any other way I can. PM me if you think it's something you can manage. I know it's a lot to ask so I won't be offended if you don't have the time or inclination.

As I said, these units simply can't be found in Australia. I thought the answer would be an actual arcade chassis but the Sharp Image I tried really disappointed me. Last night I got the geometry fixed by swapping in an older EAK model tube. However, the horizontal and vertical symmetry/linearity made me feel drunk compared with how even my modded Blaupunkt looks.

[apfelanni]

the cheapest way of shipping electronic parts is by filling a tourist suitcase . 2 years ago i ordered some xarcade parts and some  t-molding to my bros home in canada instead of my location in germany , because my sister in law and her 3 girls would come to germany for vacation . so i aked her to pack the stuff into the case of my 10 year old niece . first she was a little pissed , coz she had to leave back some beloved shirts n shoes .. whatever .. i promised to take her on a shopping tour and everything would be fine . later on i got second thoughts bout all the electronic stuff in their bags . a trackball with a pcb and some wires hanging out could easilys be misinterpretated . u know how paranoid those airport guys can be .

on my last year summer trip my baggage was inspected on the flight check in by 2 customs officers in toronto . one black guy and an india with a turban . they x-rayed by stuff an found a fishing knife and asked for an explaination. after some time one of em asked me : sir , is this ur first flight ? so i told him its the first time after everyone went nuts ..

do i need to fill out a custom declaration for a packet to australia ? last time i send some pcbs to switzerland i declared em as " missile guiding parts " . i hate it when swiss and austria dudes buying stuff on ebay germany without asking if the seller is willing to ship it in non eu countrys .




  

[apfelanni]

löl .. i checked the local market for a few minutes.. u really want me to pick such an ancient dinosaur ? ure serious ? cuc 4635 .. build 1990 .. oha .. 15 km from here .. but i want give more than 3-5 euro for disposing this beauty.

http://kleinanzeigen.ebay.de/anzeigen/s-anzeige/essen/tv-video/fernseher/u6717679

i guess bet chance of finding 4xxx chassis is the e-trash container in town . noone with a clear mind is selling 20+ year old tvs . 

[Paradroid]

Woah! Seriously, apfelanni, in my mind, that's the stuff that dreams are made of! If I were richer I'd ask you to stick that museum piece on a container ship and send it over 100% intact. It's truly beautiful! I will NEVER find a TV like that in Australia. But, it's the guts of the thing that I care about the most. Of course I would be respectful and find a nice new body for all those internal organs.

The 4635 I had featured a super-solid picture. No shakes or jitter. Once paired with a more modern "black standard" Phillips tube, the colours really came alive. No exaggeration, it would slaughter this Sharp Image chassis I'm about to send back to Jomac. The geometry was also perfect.

All the sections in the 4635 can be individually removed (everything is on daughter boards) which would make for easy packing and shipping. No need for the speakers or anything. Just the PCBs and interconnect cables.

If you feel generous and want to help an Aussie out, I'd be eternally grateful if you found me a prize specimen like that one! I don't care about getting a 1 EUR bargain. 50 EUR would be more like what I'm willing to pay (with extra EUR for shipping, of course). If you pay 1 EUR, the other 49 EUR is yours to pay for your time and effort. Let me know if that's a fair figure. Depending on postage prices, I might be able to stretch a little further...

E-trash container?! Man, I wish we had those here...

[Paradroid]

last time i send some pcbs to switzerland i declared em as " missile guiding parts "

HAHAH! I forgot about this comment soon after you linked to that television pr0n but just re-read now. If you wrote that on a custom declaration form destined for Australia, we'd both end up on some ASIO or FBI blacklist. After 911, Aussie officials don't have much of a sense of humour when it comes to such things. I'd just write "spare parts for television" and quote that it's worth $1 (pretty much the truth). People would still think you're crazy sending old electronic junk across the world but at least they wouldn't suspect some kind of improvised explosive device.

[apfelanni]

global madness part 1 : i called the ebay private seller for a buisyness rendevue this afternoon . i told him that usually i wont pay anything for such an archaic artifact , but he came up with a very touching story of longgone grandpa and his last tv and whatever ..  lets say these items have theire own history  , its like ure buying an oldtimer car . long story short : before getting moved to tears i opened my wallet and hand over 10 bucks . hopefully he buys something for his kids .    

back home in another reality my mom asks what i want with this " thing " . told her i will take it apart and send it to australia . i wonder what she was thinking . maybe : dont they have tvs in australia ? is he getting moronic now ? i put it in my garage and the chop was a matter of minutes . the chassis is monstrous , 3-4 kg . tube and casing will end up in the garbage tomorrow . do u still want it ?  

[Paradroid]

Woah! HAHAHA! I can't believe this is actually happening... Stellar effort apfelanni!

Yes, I've heard the grandfather stories before. Grandpa TVs have been great for me. Old timers look after stuff...

Gotta go grab a coffee with my girlfriend... I'll write the rest of my reply when I get back.

Needless to say I'm very impressed... and grinning from ear to ear.

[Paradroid]

the chassis is monstrous , 3-4 kg . tube and casing will end up in the garbage tomorrow . do u still want it ?

Of course I want it! Just be sure it actually works (I know the eBay listing said it worked perfectly...) or the whole operation will be a waste of time for both of us. I'm not talking detailed testing (I already know this chassis has the capabilities I want), just that it actually powers on and shows a decent picture. Probably you saw this before you hacked it into pieces.

Oh, also, you collected the remote and manual, yeah? They would definitely be handy to have in order to setup the brightness/contrast and AV input.

I have no idea how much it will cost to send 3 or 4 kg from Germany to Australia. Probably many times what you paid for the actual TV but that's expected. I reckon you could probably fit all that neatly into a regular parcel box from your post office. Those vertical cards will actually come out and could be laid flat if it makes packing easier/safer. You know what you're doing... I'll leave that up to you. As long as it survives the journey to the Southern Hemisphere I'm happy.

Let's nominate a figure (I reckon 100 EUR) and if the postage is more than that I might need to either forget about it or get my head checked. If it's below 100 EUR, just go ahead and send it. I'll PM you my address and if you can PM your PayPal or Swiss bank account I'll get whatever funds you need to you. I don't care if you use regular post or a courier. What ever is most convenient for you. If you want me to send you a koala, kangaroo, shark or luxury VGA to SCART cable as thanks, just let me know.

Very exciting! Danke!

[Calamity]

told her i will take it apart and send it to australia . i wonder what she was thinking

 

 Man I had to explain my wife why I was LOL.

[Paradroid]

told her i will take it apart and send it to australia . i wonder what she was thinking

Man I had to explain my wife why I was LOL.

[Paradroid]

Some good progress on this project today. I was really hoping to wrap it up this afternoon but time dragged on. Turns out it's pretty difficult to to drill a nice, neat line of holes in an awkward shaped piece of plastic! Revising the mask I made took most of the time. Had to abort the mission at 8:30pm 'cause "The King of Kong" is on TV!

A few more hours and this project should be done. The image is looking great with this chassis and tube combination. And, of course, it's very satisfying to finally twist a knob that's mounted in the front panel.

For your amusement, you can take a look here.

[Calamity]

Hi Paradroid, looking forward to seeing that project finished and working. I think it could be a nice idea to upload a video of the invention in action when its ready.