Automated Cabinet

[darthpaul]

Ok, I have added some bling along with the pedals door, first some pictures of the sliding door, it slides up and down to conceal the brake and gas pedals. When a driving game is chosen, Controlchoose will issue a command that will have a servo raise the door and extend the pedals. When the next game is chosen that is not a driving game the reverse will happen, I hope. 





Yes those are speakers, I was originally going to use the cabinet as a jukebox as well but I'm going to do a standalone one for my next project so I'm not too concerned about covering part of the woofers.



Here is the bling, since I didn't have any room to mount any LEDs, I used the edge lit plexi technique  using 2 blue LEDs. I am very happy with the results.





Here is the door mounted on the cabinet.



And with the pedals extended, a red LED comes on when the pedals extend.



I'm planning on using this lighting technique again, right above the coin door. It's going to be similar but a different Sith symbol and the colors will change depending on which control panel you are using.
I'll post a video as well.

[DaOld Man]

I like the bling! That emblem is fantastic.

[yaksplat]

I assumed that was an EL sheet from the pic.

Well done.

[darthpaul]

No EL sheet, just 2 blue LEDs one on each side, I sanded the back side of the plexi for the edge lighting to work.

[Santoro]

That looks very evenly lit for only 2 LEDs, good work!

[Santoro]

Can't wait to see video of all this in action.  Looks good!

[darthpaul]

OK, here is the Sith symbol above the coin door, it will change colors depending on the panel that is being used. I used the same edge lit technique except this time I printed out a Sith symbol and sandwiched it between 2 pieces of plexi and used 6 LEDs, 2 red, 2 blue and 2 purple.
I know there are better ways to do this but I already had a 12 channel Servo Controller and a micro servo and some button switches. Servo makes one switch, color is blue, makes the other switch color is purple, no switch, color is red. The soon to released CPRotate by DaOld Man will allow me to issue USCCMDs to control the servo movement.



The Sith symbol.



Mounted in the cabinet unlit.



Blue



Red



Purple, it doesn't show up that different than blue in the picture.


 

[DaOld Man]

This is really looking good. You gotta go into more detail on how you are making the edge lit plexi things, I can see some cool marquees and what not coming up.

[darthpaul]

Again, here is the link http://www.instructables.com/id/Edge-Lit-Displays/?ALLSTEPS, all I'm doing is sanding the back of the plexi  with an orbital sander using a medium grit sandpaper and sanding down the LEDs to fit better in the plexi and taping off all the edges with aluminum tape to hold in the light. Since I had very little room to mount any LEDs behind the panel, this seemed to be the next best option.

[drventure]

Now that color changing sith symbol is great. You know, if there was a way to detect "player 1" vs "player 2" in mame, and change colors based on who was up, hmmmm. Could MameHooker do that? 

[darthpaul]

That would be cool, DaOld Man, is something like that possible?

[darthpaul]

I didn't want you guys to think I have given up on this, other projects just needed to come first. Since I am constantly testing and refining DaOld Man's various MaLa plugins, I'm constantly using a USB flash drive to transfer files from my main home PC to the Cabinets PC. It was getting to be a pain to always go around the back of my cabinet to plug the drive in and then I was always forgetting to pull it out when I was done(out of sight, out of mind). I decided I needed a USB port in the front of the cabinet but where to put it. Since my coin door has three coin slots and I had mounted my volume control in the center coin return, what better spot to mount the USB port than in the center coin slot.



This is what I used http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MW6HRO/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00.
I know most people seem to be using this one http://www.pro-audio-warehouse.com/ehusbbab.html?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cse but when you add in the shipping cost the price is about the same and mine has the USB cable built in and free shipping if your total order is over $25.00.

[DaOld Man]

I like that idea. I may have to look at that usb port for A Little Rage.

Edit: I checked out the second link and does anyone have more info on this? Does it come with the cable or is it a F to F connector?
Also, that shipping and min. order pretty much sucks.
Checking out the first link next.

One more edit: Paul, that first link is pretty pricey (the stingy side of the force is strong with me).
How did you mount that? Am I correct that the coin door had three coin slots? That would explain the trim matching the other coin slots' trim. Can you show us a behind the coin door pic?

[drventure]

It's SO much easier to just throw a little Wireless G USB adapter in there. Those things are cheap now, and, given you don't often have to move gigs of files around, work perfect for synching up file sets or updating config files from a separate workstation machine.

Both my buffet cab and my juke have one.

[PL1]

I checked out the second link and does anyone have more info on this? Does it come with the cable or is it a F to F connector?

It is the Switchcraft version of the Neutrik feedthru.  No cable. Female A to Female B. Reversable barrel -- either the USB A or USB B can be on the panel side.

I usually get Neutrik feedthrus from Allied Electronics, but there are lots of suppliers that carry them.

Focus Attack carries the Neutrik version here.




Scott

[darthpaul]

One more edit: Paul, that first link is pretty pricey (the stingy side of the force is strong with me).
How did you mount that? Am I correct that the coin door had three coin slots? That would explain the trim matching the other coin slots' trim. Can you show us a behind the coin door pic?

Yes, the coin door has three slots, I guess I should have showed a "how to" pic. I removed the coin slot, cut down the triangle holder thing that comes with the port to fit in the coin slot holder, used a little hot glue to hold it tightly in place and screwed the coin slot holder back in place. I know it's a little more expensive than the other one but it does include a 6' cable and since I bought something else, shipping was free.

[darthpaul]

It's SO much easier to just throw a little Wireless G USB adapter in there. Those things are cheap now, and, given you don't often have to move gigs of files around, work perfect for synching up file sets or updating config files from a separate workstation machine.

Both my buffet cab and my juke have one.

My Cabinet's PC is already on my home network, I still need to go downstairs to turn it on though, so it's easier just to plug in the flash drive and who knows, I may one day want to use a usb controller.

[drventure]

My Cabinet's PC is already on my home network, I still need to go downstairs to turn it on though, so it's easier just to plug in the flash drive and who knows, I may one day want to use a usb controller.

Ah. Makes sense. And yeah, it's definitely nice to have a USB plug on the front. I actually put one on either side of my CP, for plugging up two hand held controllers. Haven't actually done so yet, but it's there!

[Dudeman]

I've read through the whole thing and maybe I missed something. How exactly are you rotating the CP? The last I read you were having issues with weight and the drive motor not being strong enough. I've been wanting to automate the rotation of my control panel and thought about using a worm drive but I'm having trouble finding a gear big enough.

[darthpaul]

I just seen this sorry for not responding sooner. There never was a problem with the drive motor not being strong enough to rotate the panels. The problem I was having was getting the panels to stop reliably in the correct position using optics and a code wheel. After many failed attempts, I finally just decided to use limit switches. 

I've been wanting to automate the rotation of my control panel and thought about using a worm drive but I'm having trouble finding a gear big enough.
That is why I used a gear train, to gain clearance of the rotating panels. I don't see why a worm drive wouldn't work.

[darthpaul]

Nothing really new to report, just something I would like to change on my monitor rotation. I would like to use limit stops as well as the limit switches to stop rotation. Most times it is difficult to get the monitor to stop in the exact location I want because it's a 20" CRT and its momentum sometimes moves it past where I want it to stop. My thinking is, since I'm using friction to turn the monitor, once it hits the stop block and switch, the worst that can happen is a little slippage.

[DaOld Man]

Hello Paul.
Just dropped in to refresh my memory on this project.
Any progress?

About using limit stops (AKA mechanical stops); I highly recommend it. If for nothing else, in case a limit switch fails, the monitor cant keep turning and twisting the cables going to it.
Of course with mechanical stops, the motor will be bogged down if the stop is hit, and motor current will shoot up, so make sure your drive can handle it. (This is where a fuse comes in handy. Fuses are cheaper than drives.)
I recommend the stops being past the limit switches so mechanical stops will be at approx. 95 degrees and 355 degrees, but if your monitor coasts after drive turns off, you may need to set the stops at exactly 90 and 0.

[BadMouth]

Nothing really new to report, just something I would like to change on my monitor rotation. I would like to use limit stops as well as the limit switches to stop rotation. Most times it is difficult to get the monitor to stop in the exact location I want because it's a 20" CRT and its momentum sometimes moves it past where I want it to stop. My thinking is, since I'm using friction to turn the monitor, once it hits the stop block and switch, the worst that can happen is a little slippage.

The pololu software I'm using allows you to slow the motor as it approaches the ends of travel.
That's how I addressed this issue.
Not sure if there is an equivalent for whatever interface you are using.

Mechanical stops would definitely make it accurate though.
I seem to recall someone doing a manually rotating monitor once upon a time that used magnets on the stops.
That might prevent bounce.

[TopJimmyCooks]

badmouth, can you give details on how you slowed down at the end of travel?  I was never able to successfully do that.  More than 1 limit switch at each end of travel?

[BadMouth]

badmouth, can you give details on how you slowed down at the end of travel?  I was never able to successfully do that.  More than 1 limit switch at each end of travel?

It's been a while.  I'll have to look to refresh my memory.
It will probably be next week before I have time to look at it.
No extra switches or anything. 

IIRC, it was these settings:
http://www.pololu.com/docs/0J44/5.2

EDIT: Reading the instructions, it sounds like the deceleration doesn't kick in until after the limit switch is tripped.
Maybe this is why mine kept overshooting and I had to install longer levers on the limit switches. 
I dunno.  I know I messed with that setting until I got a consistent stopping point.
When vertical, the edge of my widescreen monitor is even with the bottom of the speaker panel, so it's obvious if it's not level.
It drove me nuts when it wouldn't consistently stop in the same place.

[DaOld Man]

I don't know if those drives you guys are using support it or not, but the best method, IMHO, is to use slow down limit switches, which reduce the speed of the motor considerably when made, then allow the motor to go slow until it hits the stop limit switch.
I toyed with the idea of using that on my mrotate, but there didn't seem to be enough interest in it at the time.
Of course another way would be to use timers in the software.
Example: drive gets horizontal command, motor starts and timer starts. After a few seconds, when monitor is pretty close to the horizontal position, timer times out and motor goes to low speed until the stop limit is made, then motor stops and timer resets.
This would be the simplest way to do it. I don't like using timers to control motion, since things in the real world changes, and time needed may change, but in the case of giving the monitor a slow down point, I suppose it would be ok, I mean you still have the stop limits if something goes unexpectedly.

[TopJimmyCooks]

Ok I'm not missing anything then.  it's not really possible to change speeds with this motor/controller combo.  you're changing the braking after the limit switch engages.

[DaOld Man]

Don't you have script to control the drive? Can you insert a timer to slow it down like I suggested above?
I don't know, just asking.
What is the script command you send your motor? I might can throw something together to control it with a timer.

[BadMouth]

Don't you have script to control the drive? Can you insert a timer to slow it down like I suggested above?
I don't know, just asking.
What is the script command you send your motor? I might can throw something together to control it with a timer.

Good point.  The speed can be specified in the command line.

smccmd --speed 3200

(-3200 for reverse)
Just have it run full speed for a period of time then send another command with a slower speed.
Not sure if it would transition smooth or abruptly.  You could do it in increments.

[TopJimmyCooks]

That is very possible. my rotation duration is pretty consistent.  I'm sure Badmouth's is super consistent since he's using a linac.  I just never did anything more with it because it worked ok at the constant speed.  I'm only using the nub on a cherry switch as the limit switch and body of the switch as the hard stop.  the actuation time between stopping the motor and braking is decent to keep it from hitting hard.  could be a little softer. 

I'll play around with a stopwatch or something and see if the timed slowdown works. 

[darthpaul]

Hello Paul.
Just dropped in to refresh my memory on this project.
Any progress?

About using limit stops (AKA mechanical stops); I highly recommend it. If for nothing else, in case a limit switch fails, the monitor cant keep turning and twisting the cables going to it.
Of course with mechanical stops, the motor will be bogged down if the stop is hit, and motor current will shoot up, so make sure your drive can handle it. (This is where a fuse comes in handy.

Hey Ken, the project is still very much alive, just need to remove my garage door and build a wall and install a Mini-Split, then I can turn my attention back to the Cabinet(both projects should be completed by the end of next week, I hope). I'm not worried about the motor bogging down because the motor will just spin like car wheels on ice once the stop is hit.

[DaOld Man]

Hey Ken, the project is still very much alive, just need to remove my garage door and build a wall and install a Mini-Split, then I can turn my attention back to the Cabinet(both projects should be completed by the end of next week, I hope). I'm not worried about the motor bogging down because the motor will just spin like car wheels on ice once the stop is hit.

Cool! Cant wait to see what you have in mind.

[darthpaul]

The itch is back and I need to scratch it. My Home Theater, you can see it here http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130300.0.html is up and running even though there are a few more things I would like to do, so it's time to get back to work on this cabinet.
I got a little carried away with servos and was expecting a little too much from them, so I plan on replacing some of them with other devices. First up is the Light Guns, after seeing the post about recoil, I knew that would never work in mine because of the added weight. The servos I am using can only lift so much and I was already at their limit with the guns, so I decided to replace them with Actuators. One down one to go, I just need to wire it up.

[steinar-t]

 ;DWhere on the cab will this sit? Got a pic of the guns when holster is open?
As im planning somthing like this myself

[darthpaul]

I can't believe I never took a full picture of the Cabinet. They are on each side of the cabinet and the guns will raise up and push the lid open. don't worry pics will be coming.

[darthpaul]

Question, what to do with a keyboard and mouse when not needed? I know many of you have built keyboard drawers and I'm sure many of you have installed USB ports and just plug them in when needed. I chose to get one of those small wireless keyboards but I still needed a place to put it when not in use. I suppose I could just leave it on top of the cabinet but that seemed too easy and nothing on this cabinet has been easy, so why should I start now. I wanted it hidden and the only available spot was between the speakers under the Marquee. I made a small door, added some hinges, fabricated the linkage to attach to a servo and added a doorbell button to open and close the door. I had to write a small script to allow the servo to open and close the door by pushing the button.

[darthpaul]

Took another look at my sound system after burning out my L-Pad I use for volume control, so I decided to pick this up
 because it seems that many here on the forums are using something like it.


Well I have to say, what a piece of junk, nothing but distortion. So I decided to go to the old standby, it's probably a little overkill and very large, fortunately I have the room.

This was the first stereo I ever bought for myself back when you could buy things in Radio Shack besides Cell phones.
I could never bring myself to get rid of it because how we all know, you never know when you are going to need it.
Since the L-Pad burned out, I went with the standard audio stereo pot and while I was at it, added some lighting.

[DaOld Man]

Cool.
Bummer about the bad amp.
I like your idea for the hidden keyboard.

[darthpaul]

Took a few videos today of the Light guns and Driving accessories.



 

[darthpaul]

I also had to do something with the sides, I really didn't want to get into artwork because of the cost and the whole process of designing it. I decided to keep it simple. I cut out a Sith Symbol out of 1/2" MDF. I routed out 3/8" on the back for a 7" piece of plexi to fit and painted the Sith Symbol red. I then attached a vinyl Galactic Empire logo onto the plexi and added some blue strip lights.  I also added some labels above the admin buttons.