Author Topic: Automated Cabinet (Read 46821 times)

darthpaul · « **on:** December 31, 2011, 12:22:06 pm »

This is just a taste of my almost completely automated cabinet. I have been working with Ken "DaOld Man" Rager to transform my current cabinet into an automated one. The pictures below are just a tease, more to come.

brad808 · « **Reply #1 on:** December 31, 2011, 01:38:34 pm »

"Completely Automated Cabinet" being what exactly? Is this for auto rotation of the monitor? Automated control panel?

darthpaul · « **Reply #2 on:** December 31, 2011, 02:07:01 pm »

Automated monitor rotation, control panel rotation, auto switching joysticks from 4 to 8 way, auto retractable light guns, auto retractable pedals and shifter. The only thing I couldn't automate is the steering wheel, that is going to have to be manually added and removed.

DCsegaDH · « **Reply #3 on:** December 31, 2011, 03:00:01 pm »

Wow! I can't wait to see more of this build

brad808 · « **Reply #4 on:** December 31, 2011, 03:17:17 pm »

Quote from: darthpaul on December 31, 2011, 02:07:01 pm

Automated monitor rotation, control panel rotation, auto switching joysticks from 4 to 8 way, auto retractable light guns, auto retractable pedals and shifter. The only thing I couldn't automate is the steering wheel, that is going to have to be manually added and removed.

Ok now you have my attention!

Le Chuck · « **Reply #5 on:** December 31, 2011, 04:28:40 pm »

This is exactly the type of innovation that keeps me glued to this forum. Can't wait to see the execution. Good teasers.

darthpaul · « **Reply #6 on:** December 31, 2011, 05:21:07 pm »

I'll add another, this is the compartment that holds the light gun, there is one on each side of the cabinet. I'm using a servo to raise and lower the gun, the hardest part was making everything light enough so the servo would be able to raise it. In order to make things as light as possible I also replaced the USB cable that came with the Aim-Trak kit with a thinner one from Pololu, I checked with Andy from Ultimarc if it would be OK and he said there should be no problem. I am automating it with DaOld Man's yet to be released plug-in, controlchoose. I'll let DaOld Man explain how it works when all the kinks are worked out.

Nacimroc · « **Reply #7 on:** December 31, 2011, 09:15:51 pm »

Really looking forward to this aswell. The more info you can give us on servo/actuator set ups etc the better please

. Would love to try something like this in time but I've no idea about setting one up.

darthpaul · « **Reply #8 on:** December 31, 2011, 09:49:48 pm »

Since this was my first build and being someone who likes a challenge, I decided I wanted a rotating monitor and rotating control panels. The monitor's rotation was motorized and operated with a DPSTswitch and the control panels were rotated by opening the front door and revolving the panels by hand.
Here is what it originally looked like.

I was happy with the result, of course there were things I wish I had done better but it didn't turn out too bad. Then one day I read about DaOld Man's StartCom and MRotate and everything changed. I contacted Ken about MRotate who generously helped me to automate my monitor rotation. When I mentioned to him that I also have rotating control panels, he commented how cool it would be to automate them and that one comment was the start of this difficult crazy journey.

More to come....

vcoleiro1 · « **Reply #9 on:** December 31, 2011, 10:31:26 pm »

Got to love the Light Sabre in the Pool Cue rack - lol

darthpaul · « **Reply #10 on:** December 31, 2011, 10:45:21 pm »

It was a great space saving solution.

Green Giant · « **Reply #11 on:** January 01, 2012, 01:43:41 am »

Quote from: darthpaul on December 31, 2011, 12:22:06 pm

I see you have been doing some work with George.

How are Astro and Elroy doing?

darthpaul · « **Reply #12 on:** January 01, 2012, 07:51:00 am »

darthpaul · « **Reply #13 on:** January 01, 2012, 09:53:44 am »

My George Jetson moment is my gear train for the motorized rotating control panel. This is the fourth and final design. My first design was a little crazy and it did kinda work;

My second design used a chain and sprockets, this was where I realized it would have been much easier to have planned motorizing it from the start. I needed room for the chain to turn the panels so I had to rout out a large section of the side of the cabinet, which was easier to do than shorten each panel. This design worked much better than the first and I ultimately could have used this as my final design but there were other problems that caused me to redesign it.

At this point DaOld Man (Ken) had started on the plug-in that would control the rotation, we decided on using a code wheel and optical encoder.

The birth of CPRotate:
The way it would work is, as the motor rotated, a sprocket would turn the code wheel through the use of a pulley. The optical encoder would "read" code wheel and transfer the counts to CPRotate. Specific counts for each panel were entered into CPRotate and when that count was reached CPRotate would tell the Motor Driver to stop.
The biggest problem I was having was getting the panels to consistently stop at the same position because of play in the chain drive. There was also the issue of a panel lock, the initial plan was to use a solenoid that would push a rod through the end of the control panel into a hole in the side of the cabinet. Because I couldn't get the panels to always line up perfectly I decided to drop the chain and sprockets for a direct drive method.

I mounted the motor to the inside of the side panel of the control panels attaching it to the side of the cabinet panel through the use of a socket. Because of the weight of the motor, the panels were way out of balance and I proceeded to try and add weight to each panel to balance everything out which made everything that much heavier. This design failed as well, there was too much stress on the motor shaft which ended up breaking and I still couldn't get the panel to consistently stop in the same position for the solenoid lock to work.
Before I go any further, there are many details I left out and if anyone has any questions I will be more than happy to answer them.

Bender · « **Reply #14 on:** January 01, 2012, 11:07:05 am »

I've been thinking about this (automated rotating CP) for a while, and even started a couple prototypes, my biggest problem was locking it into place with no play
Then then I saw Ond's rotating monitor and it hit me, with a stepper motor inside the center of the rotating CP you could have a direct drive with precise control and no pay and no need for a locking mechanism, so essentially the stepper motor would rotate with the CP if that makes any sense

I'm really psyched to see someone actually doing this
Looking forward to your progress!!

drventure · « **Reply #15 on:** January 01, 2012, 11:22:42 am »

Nice. I'm working through some of these same issues with my radio cabinet build right now.

Where'd you source the motors, rods, gears?

My struggle right now is connecting a threaded rod to the motor shaft of the motor I'm using to lift the cabinet top.

Saw an interesting take on it where they used vinyl tubing to help damp vibration.

But I may end up just getting a real linear actuator and being done with it...

Cool build. I like the gun tray pop up idea!

darthpaul · « **Reply #16 on:** January 01, 2012, 12:00:53 pm »

Quote from: Bender on January 01, 2012, 11:07:05 am

I've been thinking about this (automated rotating CP) for a while, and even started a couple prototypes, my biggest problem was locking it into place with no play
Then then I saw Ond's rotating monitor and it hit me, with a stepper motor inside the center of the rotating CP you could have a direct drive with precise control and no pay and no need for a locking mechanism, so essentially the stepper motor would rotate with the CP if that makes any sense

I'm really psyched to see someone actually doing this
Looking forward to your progress!!

Yes, the locking of the panels was my biggest headache. I tried the motor inside the panels and although it wasn't a stepper, weight and the momentum of the panels turning may be a problem. I finally came up with this design for my lock, it looks like some sort of torture device. I'm using an actuator to raise and lower it and is triggered by a relay(DaOld Man's design) connected to printer's parallel port and controlled by CPRotate.

Green Giant · « **Reply #17 on:** January 01, 2012, 12:23:08 pm »

So are you going to make a robotic interface to stand in front of the machine and automate the playing as well?

That way a user can virtually feel like they are playing.

darthpaul · « **Reply #18 on:** January 01, 2012, 12:31:20 pm »

Quote from: drventure on January 01, 2012, 11:22:42 am

Nice. I'm working through some of these same issues with my radio cabinet build right now.

Where'd you source the motors, rods, gears?

My struggle right now is connecting a threaded rod to the motor shaft of the motor I'm using to lift the cabinet top.

Saw an interesting take on it where they used vinyl tubing to help damp vibration.

But I may end up just getting a real linear actuator and being done with it...

Cool build. I like the gun tray pop up idea!

The motor that rotates the CP is just a windshield wiper motor and I'm using an actuator(ebay) to operate the CP lock. Purchased the gears here https://sdp-si.com/eStore/, the motor drivers here http://www.pololu.com/catalog/product/711
The wiper motor has a threaded shaft and I epoxied a shaft extender on it, I then found a 1/2" drive socket that that was the same size as the extender, I think it is 3/8", I then shaped the hub of the gear to fit in the 1/2" socket.
The picture shows two sockets jammed together as a test before purchasing one with all the correct dimensions.

Here are the actuators I'm using, they only have a 4" stroke which was enough for what I needed them for.

darthpaul · « **Reply #19 on:** January 01, 2012, 12:37:35 pm »

Quote from: Green Giant on January 01, 2012, 12:23:08 pm

So are you going to make a robotic interface to stand in front of the machine and automate the playing as well?

That way a user can virtually feel like they are playing.

My goal is for someone to just worry about what game they want to play and not try and figure out what controls are needed or what buttons need to be pressed, it has lighted buttons, 4 or 8 way joystick.

drventure · « **Reply #20 on:** January 01, 2012, 12:59:59 pm »

Quote

My goal is for someone to just worry about what game they want to play and not try and figure out what controls are needed or what buttons need to be pressed

I always thought the ultimate in this would be to have each button mounted on a motorized lift.

When you select a game, only the used buttons would be "up".

The rest would drop down under the CP and little cover doors would slide in place to cover the holes.

I'm counting the ~~days~~ years till someone pulls that one off.

Yvan256 · « **Reply #21 on:** January 01, 2012, 04:32:45 pm »

Quote from: drventure on January 01, 2012, 12:59:59 pm

Quote
My goal is for someone to just worry about what game they want to play and not try and figure out what controls are needed or what buttons need to be pressed

I always thought the ultimate in this would be to have each button mounted on a motorized lift.

When you select a game, only the used buttons would be "up".

The rest would drop down under the CP and little cover doors would slide in place to cover the holes.

I'm counting the ~~days~~ years till someone pulls that one off.

Make that multi-colored buttons in each spot instead of colored lighted ones and you got a deal.

darthpaul · « **Reply #22 on:** January 01, 2012, 04:44:45 pm »

Quote from: drventure on January 01, 2012, 12:59:59 pm

Quote
My goal is for someone to just worry about what game they want to play and not try and figure out what controls are needed or what buttons need to be pressed

I always thought the ultimate in this would be to have each button mounted on a motorized lift.

When you select a game, only the used buttons would be "up".

The rest would drop down under the CP and little cover doors would slide in place to cover the holes.

I'm counting the ~~days~~ years till someone pulls that one off.

No buttons but the Shifter raises and lowers.

SammyWI · « **Reply #23 on:** January 01, 2012, 06:44:47 pm »

Very cool setup. Please keep us updated.

Le Chuck · « **Reply #24 on:** January 01, 2012, 07:01:56 pm »

Wow. Seriously, the possibilities this opens are fantastic. Keep it coming.

darthpaul · « **Reply #25 on:** January 01, 2012, 08:07:41 pm »

If you insist. All the rotating control panel cabinets I had seen required opening the front door to rotate the panels and mine was no different, having a Flight Stick required it. In order to create a motorized revolving CPs, opening the front door wouldn't fly. The solution I came up with was creating a bump-out to make room for the Flight Stick to rotate. Since this is a Star Wars themed cabinet, this is the solution I came up with:

Another problem I had with the rotation and this was probably due to poor design on my part, was, I had to have a space under the monitor large enough for the joysticks to clear under. In order to hide this space, I created a flap that would fold up when I wanted to rotate the CPs, then I would fold it back down when the panels were in position. Now I also had to devise some method of have this flap open automatically when the panels are ready to rotate, then close went the rotation was complete. I have been having some problems with this because it involved linkage that tied into the CP lock, I finally got it working correctly today. The following are older pictures of the linkage, I just had to do some tweaking to get it working just right.

darthpaul · « **Reply #26 on:** January 02, 2012, 06:58:49 pm »

OK, here are some pictures of the pedals, they are automated to be pushed out from beneath the cabinet when a driving game is chosen. I am using a servo to activate a switch to turn on the actuator that pulls a rod(lever) pushing the pedals out from beneath the cabinet (sounds a little like Mouse Trap). At the same time the shifter raises up out of it's compartment. When you exit the game, the same thing happens but in reverse.
The pedals are heavily modified Pole Position pedals, I replaced the pot that came with it with linear pots on both the gas and brake and kept the micro switch on the brake.

stefano · « **Reply #27 on:** January 02, 2012, 07:53:06 pm »

Congratulations for plan such sophisticated mechanisms.

I like simpler designs like a vertical slim arcade cabinet for example... Too much options and we finish never enjoying the games... this is my humble opinion.

jimmy2x2x · « **Reply #28 on:** January 02, 2012, 08:02:46 pm »

Really interesting project, any chance of a video or two showing it in action?

Thanks

drventure · « **Reply #29 on:** January 02, 2012, 10:37:08 pm »

Quote

Really interesting project, any chance of a video or two showing it in action?

+1 to that!

@stefano

Quote

Too much options and we finish never enjoying the games

True, but keep in mind, to many, the process of +building+ the cabinet is just as much, if not more, fun than the games you can end up playing on the cabinet!

Personally, I love all the mechanical, rotating screen, folding, popup this-or-that designs floating around here. Definitely keeps me coming back.

darthpaul · « **Reply #30 on:** January 06, 2012, 09:30:45 pm »

Quote from: stefano on January 02, 2012, 07:53:06 pm

Congratulations for plan such sophisticated mechanisms.

I like simpler designs like a vertical slim arcade cabinet for example... Too much options and we finish never enjoying the games... this is my humble opinion.

Yes, behind the scenes so to speak, it is somewhat complicated but the end result, due to the automation involved, makes it a much simpler cabinet to use. The only real option there is, is what game you want to play, again, due to the automation involved(thanks to DaOld Man), the cabinet is configured for each game.

darthpaul · « **Reply #31 on:** January 06, 2012, 09:35:36 pm »

Quote from: jimmy2x2x on January 02, 2012, 08:02:46 pm

Really interesting project, any chance of a video or two showing it in action?

Thanks

That is a given, I just need a little more time to put some makeup and lipstick on it before it's ready for it's close up

Le Chuck · « **Reply #32 on:** January 06, 2012, 09:57:39 pm »

Quote from: drventure on January 02, 2012, 10:37:08 pm

True, but keep in mind, to many, the process of +building+ the cabinet is just as much, if not more, fun than the games you can end up playing on the cabinet!

+ eleventy billion

darthpaul · « **Reply #33 on:** January 06, 2012, 10:27:26 pm »

Guilty as well, I'm already thinking about a sit-down racer.

drventure · « **Reply #34 on:** January 06, 2012, 10:56:18 pm »

You come up with a sit down racing cabinet that automatically folds up into a "normal" piece of furniture, and I just might have to blatantly copy your design!

I might get away with having one of those in my house

darthpaul · « **Reply #35 on:** January 07, 2012, 08:15:08 am »

Let's not get crazy now

RyoriNoTetsujin · « **Reply #36 on:** January 07, 2012, 07:50:15 pm »

Quote from: drventure on January 06, 2012, 10:56:18 pm

You come up with a sit down racing cabinet that automatically folds up into a "normal" piece of furniture, and I just might have to blatantly copy your design!

I might get away with having one of those in my house

You mean, like this?

Probably not quite what you have in mind... but not a bad idea, either.

drventure · « **Reply #37 on:** January 07, 2012, 10:12:44 pm »

That's great!

No, not quite what I had in mind, but pretty damn slick, none-the-less.

darthpaul · « **Reply #38 on:** January 29, 2012, 05:00:56 pm »

An update on my Steering wheel progress. The plan is to have a detachable wheel with the column rising and lowering out of site behind a sliding door.
Here is the wheel and column I'm using, I won it for a $1.00 on ebay, I have tested it with my opti-pac and it works fine.

Here is my new column mounted on the front of the cabinet. The column will raise and lower with a linkage that is attached to the pedal linkage.

This how I'm going to enclose it, I had to bump out the coin door 2" to make everything fit and I think it looks better.

Next I have to make the sliding door, which with some luck, will be operated by a servo.

TopJimmyCooks · « **Reply #39 on:** January 29, 2012, 08:39:29 pm »

Surprised I hadn't seen this until now. one thing I would consider on the guns is to have them slide out on racks Robocop style rather than flip down. Also, the guys doing rotating gates on their joysticks need to look into your worm drive actuators- those are perfect for that application, especially if there's a smaller version.

Very interesting stuff. something I would seriously consider is using this cab as a prototype and working out all the bugs and questions, then maybe redoing the cabinet in a final version. I'm very interested to see how the cp panel drive works.

Green Giant · « **Reply #40 on:** January 30, 2012, 11:01:14 am »

Progress is looking insane as always.

I really look forward to the robot you will build to play this beast so we can all sit back and watch the automatons in action.

So, is your cab an autobot or decepticon?

darthpaul · « **Reply #41 on:** January 30, 2012, 06:57:46 pm »

Quote from: TopJimmyCooks on January 29, 2012, 08:39:29 pm

Surprised I hadn't seen this until now. one thing I would consider on the guns is to have them slide out on racks Robocop style rather than flip down. Also, the guys doing rotating gates on their joysticks need to look into your worm drive actuators- those are perfect for that application, especially if there's a smaller version.

Very interesting stuff. something I would seriously consider is using this cab as a prototype and working out all the bugs and questions, then maybe redoing the cabinet in a final version. I'm very interested to see how the cp panel drive works.

The guns are pushed upward by a servo, they don't flip down. The CP drive after much trial and error is working pretty well, I'm just waiting for DaOldman to put the finishing touches on CPRotate to fully automate it.

Le Chuck · « **Reply #42 on:** January 31, 2012, 01:31:55 pm »

This build continues to amaze me.

I added a wiki entry about 4way to 8way servo use here. I cited your work and put links to this build and your tutorial. Feel free to add/fix anything I missed. I figure after this build you'll have a lot of wiki-ing to do so wanted to save you the time on the part that I understand at least. Thanks man!

yaksplat · « **Reply #43 on:** January 31, 2012, 01:58:17 pm »

Needs more stepper motors and worm gears.

I think i just have a thing for worm gears.

Looks great so far. Very impressive.

drventure · « **Reply #44 on:** January 31, 2012, 02:30:58 pm »

Quote from: yaksplat on January 31, 2012, 01:58:17 pm

Needs more stepper motors and worm gears.

And ball screws. Never heard of them before I started looking into linear actuators.

darthpaul · « **Reply #45 on:** January 31, 2012, 07:01:27 pm »

Quote from: drventure on January 31, 2012, 02:30:58 pm

Quote from: yaksplat on January 31, 2012, 01:58:17 pm
Needs more stepper motors and worm gears.

And ball screws. Never heard of them before I started looking into linear actuators.

I would be lost without those ball screws

darthpaul · « **Reply #46 on:** January 31, 2012, 07:13:40 pm »

Quote from: Le Chuck on January 31, 2012, 01:31:55 pm

This build continues to amaze me.

I added a wiki entry about 4way to 8way servo use here. I cited your work and put links to this build and your tutorial. Feel free to add/fix anything I missed. I figure after this build you'll have a lot of wiki-ing to do so wanted to save you the time on the part that I understand at least. Thanks man!

Great work Le Chuck, "Impressive most Impressive".
I've been talking with DaOld Man about including all types of automation in the Mrotate forum and change the name to reflect the new content, I think that would generate a lot more interest and maybe interesting new ideas.

darthpaul · « **Reply #47 on:** February 03, 2012, 05:41:15 pm »

Surprisingly I got the sliding panel to work with only one redesign, a first for this cabinet.
Here we are looking at the underside of the steering wheel panel, I have glued MDF strips to the left underside of the sliding panel to create a groove for the servo arm to ride in.

I originally wanted to attach the servo to this same panel but there wasn't enough room for the servo to retract the panel fully, so I just mounted the servo to the cabinet, it ended up being easier to do it this way.

I attached to the end of the servo arm a little rotating cylinder I got out of an old VCR to ride in the groove. As the servo arm rotates, the cylinder rides along the groove pulling or pushing the panel as it goes, depending on which way the servo is turning.

The servo has no problem at all opening and closing the panel and I would be curious how large a panel this would work on.

severdhed · « **Reply #48 on:** February 05, 2012, 12:11:50 am »

this is just beyond awesome

darthpaul · « **Reply #49 on:** February 05, 2012, 02:34:28 pm »

OK, I'm just about done with the concealed steering column, I just need to wire up a micro switch so the actuator waits until the servo has opened the door. I could program my bat file to wait 2 or three seconds between the command to open the door and start the actuators but I think the micro switch is safer. If there is one thing that must be taken into account when automating things is, if something doesn't work, it can cause something else to break. The best example is my rotating CPs, if the brake doesn't unlock, the panels won't rotate, a micro switch tells CPRotate the panels are unlocked and can proceed to rotate.

Here is the setup I'm using to raise up the steering column. I'm using a cable attached to the lever that is used to push out the gas and brake pedals. As the lever is pulled back by the actuator, the cable is being pulled, which runs through a pulley up to a lever, as the cable pulls one side down, the other side will pivot up, pushing a rod up, which pushes the steering column up, got all that

I have everything put back together, just need to do some touch ups
This is how it looks closed

And open, the circles are red not orange.

Here is how I am going to make the steering wheel detachable. I'm using the three bolt holes in the steering shaft as my guide for positioning the wheel on the shaft. I used an MDF spacer, drilled holes matching the shafts holes, enlarged the holes on the bottom just enough to recess the nut than epoxied sheet metal to the bottom for addition strength. I glued a bolt into a large knob which will screw into the steering shaft to secure it.

And here is how it looks mounted.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #50 on:** February 05, 2012, 03:24:11 pm »

Wow...

darthpaul · « **Reply #51 on:** February 05, 2012, 04:11:31 pm »

It's coming along.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #52 on:** February 05, 2012, 04:50:38 pm »

Id say it is indeed.
Those white panels on either side, (left is directly below the shifter), are they going to light up?

darthpaul · « **Reply #53 on:** February 05, 2012, 05:11:47 pm »

That would be cool but because the shifter raises and lowers in the left one and the fight stick rotates through the one on the right, I didn't see a way of doing it. They are both open at the top as well and light would shine up though it. I have been trying to think of a way to have some type of cover over them that would open and close when the need arises but nothing has come to mind yet.

Le Chuck · « **Reply #54 on:** February 05, 2012, 06:34:05 pm »

You're talking about the shifter hole right? Why not a trapdoor? I would think that you wouldn't even need an additional servo, it could be a simple three peice lever deal, when the shifter is in the down position it keeps pressure on the bottom lever pusing the trapdoor flush, when raised the trapdoor swings down. I'm sure it's totally more difficult than that and you have zero room but from my armchair its an easy fix!

Awesomesauce by the way. Total and complete awesomesauce.

Green Giant · « **Reply #55 on:** February 06, 2012, 02:26:59 am »

So random question.

Do you apply your insane automation skills to other stuff around your house?

When I picture you eating breakfast all I can think of is Pee Wee's playhouse.

darthpaul · « **Reply #56 on:** February 06, 2012, 07:10:45 pm »

I like to keep things hidden or out of the way, I have a bunch of built-ins in my house.

darthpaul · « **Reply #57 on:** February 17, 2012, 05:19:53 pm »

One of the hazards of automating things;

I'm pretty sure I know what happened, I hope. I was concerned that the cable was going to be the weak link, it looks like I was wrong, it appears to be plenty strong.
I have also decided to redesign the front, the tops of the two columns are now going to be hidden, one under a sliding panel and the other will be covered with a flap that will swing up powered by, what else, another servo.
I decided to mount the shifter on the front door instead of in the column, it will be easier to work on if the need arises.
Here is the picture of the actuator that will raise and lower the shifter.

darthpaul · « **Reply #58 on:** February 19, 2012, 07:42:24 pm »

I have decided to redesign the front panel to better conceal the top of the two columns and made them blend in better.
The opening for the shifter is now going to have a sliding panel just like the steering column, both will open at the same time with one servo.

I decided to have two rails support the sliding panel, this allowed me to make the panel wider top to bottom because the opening for the shifter needed to be larger than the steering column.
The column on the right is going to have a hinged flap that will open up through the use of a servo, to allow the Flight Stick to rotate through as the panels rotate. I still need to trim the hinge or the Flight Stick will hit it.

While this weekend has been productive, it just seems like everything takes 5 times longer than I thought it would.

Pinball Wizard · « **Reply #59 on:** February 19, 2012, 08:46:37 pm »

Quote from: darthpaul on February 17, 2012, 05:19:53 pm

One of the hazards of automating things;

So what am I looking at here, Doc?

Green Giant · « **Reply #60 on:** February 20, 2012, 12:27:10 am »

Quote from: Pinball Wizard on February 19, 2012, 08:46:37 pm

Quote from: darthpaul on February 17, 2012, 05:19:53 pm
One of the hazards of automating things;

So what am I looking at here, Doc?

Isn't it obvious?

The thingamajigger which is attached to the doohicky banjaxed his minces.

darthpaul · « **Reply #61 on:** February 20, 2012, 07:45:05 am »

Exactly

!

Pinball Wizard · « **Reply #62 on:** February 20, 2012, 11:59:36 am »

Oh, when you put it that way

drventure · « **Reply #63 on:** February 20, 2012, 12:32:47 pm »

Damnation, this is one heck of a build.

You +really+ need some videos of this stuff!

darthpaul · « **Reply #64 on:** February 26, 2012, 05:44:09 pm »

There will be videos, I promise.
This is taking forever but I'm almost done with the redesign, still need to do some painting, I hate painting, it takes so long, I start rushing and it turns out looking so so.
I have the servo and micro switch hooked up(paper clips come in handy). The micro switch is to tell the control panel rotation program (CPRotate) that the flap is up and rotation can begin.

Here is a pic of what it will eventually look like, I still need to do some painting of the border and also to blend in the seam of the flap with some strategically placed red stripes.

The right side is going to flip open to allow the Flight Stick to rotate through, the octagon on the left and circle have panels that will slid open to allow the shifter and steering column to raise up out of.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #65 on:** February 26, 2012, 07:10:56 pm »

Looking good. I like your new design better than the old one.

Green Giant · « **Reply #66 on:** February 27, 2012, 12:06:50 pm »

Why not just build a robot to handle the painting for you?

DaOld Man · « **Reply #67 on:** February 27, 2012, 12:54:05 pm »

Quote from: Green Giant on February 27, 2012, 12:06:50 pm

Why not just build a robot to handle the painting for you?

Now that may be a very good idea!

kahlid74 · « **Reply #68 on:** February 27, 2012, 03:21:59 pm »

Quote from: Green Giant on February 27, 2012, 12:06:50 pm

Why not just build a robot to handle the painting for you?

Perhaps a retrofitted Roomba with wall suction cups tread so it can climb all over the machine and paint it over the course of a few hours!

darthpaul · « **Reply #69 on:** February 27, 2012, 07:00:57 pm »

Quote from: DaOld Man on February 26, 2012, 07:10:56 pm

Looking good. I like your new design better than the old one.

Thanks, I do too, conceals things better, I am hoping to add some Sith graphics but am worried about that painting thing.

darthpaul · « **Reply #70 on:** March 11, 2012, 12:34:59 pm »

Some pictures of the Auto rotating monitor, it's a 21" Hitachi, the cord is for the Aimtrak.

Low tech windshield wiper motor and a rubber wheel taken off a caster turn the monitor.

Backside of the rotating bezel, I modified the original monitor bezel so it would fit on the monitor now mounted on the plywood wheel, it is held in place with Velcro. I then glued poster board to this bezel, because the bezel had a slight curve, it made it a little more challenging. When I designed the art for the main bezel, I made sure the waste that would be cut away for the screen was printed to look like stars. I cut this waste into strips and glued it on the rotating bezel so it would blend in more with the main bezel.

Aimtrak mounting

The final piece to the puzzle was to automate the flap under the monitor shelf, this is done with a servo. I needed this flap to allow the joysticks to fit under as they rotate, it just needs a little sanding and paint.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #71 on:** March 11, 2012, 04:48:14 pm »

Someones been very busy!
Nice work.
Making a CRT rotate is quite a pretty big challenge, isnt it?
I like the idea of using the otherwise waste on the bezel. Good thinking.

darthpaul · « **Reply #72 on:** March 11, 2012, 06:03:00 pm »

Thank goodness for cabinets like REBIRTH which was part of the inspiration for both my rotating monitor and control panel. If you have a bad back, stick to using an LED monitor to rotate

. I know MRotate has a way to degauss but I couldn't get to the button on the monitor. The way I'm dealing with it is, I'm using a roller micro switch that when it hits a ramp on the rotating panel, it shuts off the monitor. It works pretty good as long as you give it a few minutes before rotating again.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #73 on:** March 11, 2012, 06:06:55 pm »

Mrotate can do that too, using a relay to cut the power to the monitor, but the limit switch is a good idea too.

darthpaul · « **Reply #74 on:** March 11, 2012, 06:13:10 pm »

I like that idea.

darthpaul · « **Reply #75 on:** April 14, 2012, 10:05:41 pm »

Been working hard on this as well as redoing a few things and working out some bugs.
What Sith themed cabinet with a rotating monitor and rotating control panel would be complete without a rotating Sith Holocron. I decided to make a Topper for the cabinet and a Sith Holocron seemed like a good item and while I was at it, I might as well light it up and have it rotating.
I'm using a 6" Lazy Susan and a small geared motor for rotation, I originally used a mouse wheel to drive the Lazy Susan but that didn't work out too well.

Another thing I quickly realized, was that the motor was very loud because the plywood was magnifying the sound of the motor, so I did my best to isolate the motor from the plywood by using strips of rubber. The rubber was from pipe coupling I had leftover from a plumbing project, I also cut a plug from a hunk of rubber to replace the mouse wheel. It was just a matter of pushing it down on the motor shaft and it holds in place with no problems.

The next thing I needed was lights, I'm using 4, 360 degree red LEDs, again I used what was available to mount the lights. I cut the bottom off a 12oz Pepsi bottle, drilled some holes and wired the LEDs up, I used foil tape to hold it in place.

I know it doesn't look very pretty but it works and no one is going to see it anyway.
Finally, I had to build the Holocron, I wasn't trying to make it look like a prop, I just wanted it to be presentable. I cut 4, 1/8" plexiglass triangles, painted them red using glass paint. I found some symbols on the internet and made transparencies out of it and glued that to the triangles. I then cut out cardboard, spray painted it gold and glued that to the front of the triangles and finally put a glass ball at the top.

drventure · « **Reply #76 on:** April 15, 2012, 12:19:40 am »

Quote from: darthpaul on April 14, 2012, 10:05:41 pm

Been working hard on this as well as redoing a few things and working out some bugs.
What Sith themed cabinet with a rotating monitor and rotating control panel would be complete without a rotating Sith Holocron. I decided to make a Topper for the cabinet and a Sith Holocron seemed like a good item and while I was at it, I might as well light it up and have it rotating.

Ok, this started out as a pretty cool build, but a rotating Sith Holocron?

Awesome!

Of course, I had no idea WTF that glowing red and gold thing was. I had to go back through that read the post more thoroughly.

You're going to end up with a genuine flea circus (not a bad thing, I love those)

DaOld Man · « **Reply #77 on:** April 15, 2012, 02:02:32 am »

Good work DarthPaul.. The power of the force is strong with this one!

Good job on the Sith Holocron. If you havent given details, I never would have guessed you built it from scratch!

Now, I hate to be the bearer of bad news but............. WE NEED VIDEOS!!!!

This project is way too awesome for still pics alone!

emphatic · « **Reply #78 on:** April 15, 2012, 03:49:33 am »

Cool stuff.

darthpaul · « **Reply #79 on:** April 15, 2012, 07:52:31 am »

Quote from: DaOld Man on April 15, 2012, 02:02:32 am

Good work DarthPaul.. The power of the force is strong with this one!

Good job on the Sith Holocron. If you havent given details, I never would have guessed you built it from scratch!

Now, I hate to be the bearer of bad news but............. WE NEED VIDEOS!!!!

This project is way too awesome for still pics alone!

The reason I'm holding off on the videos is, I'm kind of a slob when I'm working on things, once I clean things up a little the videos will come.

darthpaul · « **Reply #80 on:** April 15, 2012, 12:39:17 pm »

This is one of the reasons this is taking so long, I made a change in how the steering column is being raised. The actuator is pulling back on a lever that pushes out the brake and gas pedals, attached to this lever I attached a cable that ran through a pulley that pulled down on another lever that pushed up a rod that pushed up the steering column, got all of that? I wasn't happy with this arrangement but I couldn't think of anything else.

Last week I discovered the bell crank and here is the result.

As the actuator pulls back on the lever, the flat bar that is attached to the lever, pulls back on the "L" bracket which raises a bar which pushes up the steering column. This works so much better and I actually got it to work on the first try, a first for this project.

drventure · « **Reply #81 on:** April 15, 2012, 06:54:41 pm »

Nice. I used almost the exact same mechanism to pop out the screen once it was fully lifted on my touchscreen jukebox conversion.

You +really+ need to check out the PDFs this guy links to

http://www.pdnotebook.com/2010/02/507-mechanical-movements-pdf/

The 507 Mechanical Movements, and several of the other PDfs are fantastic resources for getting ideas on mechanical motion conversion, translation, you name it. Old stuff, but very cool.

darthpaul · « **Reply #82 on:** April 15, 2012, 07:37:32 pm »

Thanks, just downloaded it, now I have more ideas to start working on your suggestion.

"I always thought the ultimate in this would be to have each button mounted on a motorized lift.

When you select a game, only the used buttons would be "up".

The rest would drop down under the CP and little cover doors would slide in place to cover the holes.

I'm counting the days years till someone pulls that one off."

I don't know about the doors but mounting Servos to each button could work raising and lowering them.

drventure · « **Reply #83 on:** April 15, 2012, 07:41:47 pm »

Quote from: darthpaul on April 15, 2012, 07:37:32 pm

"I always thought the ultimate in this would be to have each button mounted on a motorized lift.

Dude, if you can pull off something even remotely like that, you'll be considered a god among men (at least by me

)

yaksplat · « **Reply #84 on:** April 16, 2012, 08:49:16 am »

Just scanning through that book makes me want to start on another project that i've been drawing up. Recreating a bryan's Payramid.

http://www.melright.com/bryans/payramid.htm

Less electrical, more mechanical...

kahlid74 · « **Reply #85 on:** April 16, 2012, 09:48:57 am »

Quote from: yaksplat on April 16, 2012, 08:49:16 am

Just scanning through that book makes me want to start on another project that i've been drawing up. Recreating a bryan's Payramid.

http://www.melright.com/bryans/payramid.htm

Less electrical, more mechanical...

Not to side track this thread but when I built a DC for a manufacturing company I got to walk the lines with some of the Controls Engineers. They were retrofitting a line made by a German company back in the late 80's/90's. The stuff was WAY ahead of it's time. The controls guys said "This whole line is basically mechanical. They did in this line mechanically what we do control(computers) wise in other lines. These guys were brilliant". That comment always stuck with me, that you could do something so beautiful and smoothly mechanically as you could with computerized components. Was super cool. Sorry to derail the thread.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #86 on:** April 16, 2012, 09:50:47 pm »

Also not meaning to derail the thread, but I worked on a automated welding machine back in the early 80s that was built by Austrians. The operator programmed the sequence by inserting pegs in a plastic belt at specific locations, each time the machine would stroke, the belt would advance one section. The pegs would make limit switches at the top, which cycled relays to do a certain function. This was before PLC's were popular. I thought it was amazing. Now we have PLCs that can do those sorts of things, but back then that was way ahead of the technology we were using on other machines in the plant. Relays were big then, now 99% of machines are ran by computers known as PLC's.

yaksplat · « **Reply #87 on:** April 16, 2012, 10:40:32 pm »

I've worked on some of those two. Basically like a music box cyinder. They were dead on for repetitive cycles unless you had a voltage issue to the motor controlling the wheel.

darthpaul · « **Reply #88 on:** April 20, 2012, 05:08:23 pm »

I was thinking how bland my sliding panel is that conceals the shifter and steering wheel column, just a lot of red and black.

As I was surfing the web looking for ideas, I came across edge lighting plexiglass and thought, why not, anything is better than how it looks now. This was the site I used for directions http://www.instructables.com/id/Edge-Lit-Displays/?ALLSTEPS
I pretty much followed what he did and here is what I came up with.

I think I placed the LEDs a little too close to the subject matter but I had very tight quarters and I think it still looks kinda neat.
I was thinking about maybe using this technique on a Control Panel, of course a lot thought would have to go into the artwork to intergrate the two and of course a lot of patience and a steady hand.

mcseforsale · « **Reply #89 on:** April 27, 2012, 12:41:31 pm »

MameMaster! · « **Reply #90 on:** April 27, 2012, 04:07:41 pm »

Wow. Kudos on the creativity here.

This looks like Macgyver is builiding it. I swear I've never seen such a mish/mash of parts- that is so beautifully functional!

Very well done.

....my only worry for you is the inevitable mechanical problems/gremlins you're going to be working out of this thing for months (years?) to come!

But- again- incredible job. Very very creative.

darthpaul · « **Reply #91 on:** April 27, 2012, 04:52:54 pm »

I think you maybe right, I have already made modifications because of problems and I'm not even up and running yet

I know it's a little rough around the edges but hopefully it will inspire others to try something like this as well. My only real concern is the durability of it, only time will tell on that one.

drventure · « **Reply #92 on:** April 27, 2012, 06:14:56 pm »

It's like a wonderful combination of the hardest to maintain bits of both arcade games and pinballs!

I'm just kiddin'

I love all the motion stuff, even if it might be a pain to maintain.

You're stuff has given me some ideas as to how I'll be setting up monitor rotation on my buffet cabinet!

darthpaul · « **Reply #93 on:** May 13, 2012, 12:31:07 am »

Well, I just took about 3 steps back, I took apart the rotating panels, again

because there was a little to much play in the rotation, to install a larger gear to lower the motor height, do an adjustment to one of the limit switches and clean up the wiring a bit. While I had it apart, I took some pictures and a video of the servos for the Joysticks.

drventure · « **Reply #94 on:** May 14, 2012, 10:01:20 pm »

Not to derail the thread or anything, but if you built an amphibious car, this is what I'd imagine it'd look like.

Watch till about half way through, when it shows what all pops out.

Le Chuck · « **Reply #95 on:** May 14, 2012, 11:47:33 pm »

DRV - I don't quite understand the source but that link made me feel like the first time I saw a girl naked.

Thanks for derailing, it allows me to ask Yak a direct question.

Jim - are you serious about building a Bryan's Pyramid? I've loved that machine for years. I have the plans but don't have cut lists or anything like that. If you go through with a build I'd love to help anyway I can.

Darth - Keep up the good work, I'm sure our efforts will result in the main stream availability of auto rotating joys someday.

yaksplat · « **Reply #96 on:** May 15, 2012, 09:45:29 am »

< thread derail>

Hell yeah i am. I've got a guy in the UK that has been taking pictures of parts for me with measurements. My plan is to draw it up in inventor and then fabricate it from there. I do have a feeling that this will be a looooooooong running project. I was planning on drawing up all of the castings and then having them printed out at shapeways as a proof of concept and then actually getting them cast. I'm not sure how well the shapeways sintered materials would hold up or look. I'll give you some read/write privileges on my skydrive folder where i keep all of the info that i have.

</thread derail>

mcseforsale · « **Reply #97 on:** May 16, 2012, 10:44:48 am »

Yak...is there any links to Bryan's Pyramid sites? I'm having trouble finding any..

Thanks!

/hijack off

Quote from: yaksplat on May 15, 2012, 09:45:29 am

< thread derail>

Hell yeah i am. I've got a guy in the UK that has been taking pictures of parts for me with measurements. My plan is to draw it up in inventor and then fabricate it from there. I do have a feeling that this will be a looooooooong running project. I was planning on drawing up all of the castings and then having them printed out at shapeways as a proof of concept and then actually getting them cast. I'm not sure how well the shapeways sintered materials would hold up or look. I'll give you some read/write privileges on my skydrive folder where i keep all of the info that i have.

</thread derail>

GIZMOGAMES · « **Reply #98 on:** May 16, 2012, 10:58:32 am »

Quote from: darthpaul on December 31, 2011, 02:07:01 pm

Automated monitor rotation, control panel rotation, auto switching joysticks from 4 to 8 way, auto retractable light guns, auto retractable pedals and shifter. The only thing I couldn't automate is the steering wheel, that is going to have to be manually added and removed.

Dude you forgot the automated bottle opener for the beers oh wait erm nop NOPE thats why we have kids lol

Sik loving it

yaksplat · « **Reply #99 on:** May 16, 2012, 11:30:19 am »

Quote from: mcseforsale on May 16, 2012, 10:44:48 am

Yak...is there any links to Bryan's Pyramid sites? I'm having trouble finding any..

Thanks!

/hijack off

That's because there's almost nothing out there, which is really hard to believe.
This is the only one that has any info:
http://www.melright.com/bryans/payramid.htm

mcseforsale · « **Reply #100 on:** May 16, 2012, 12:29:17 pm »

And....pAyramid....with an A.

Thanks! I'd seen it before but couldn't find the link.

AJ

Quote from: yaksplat on May 16, 2012, 11:30:19 am

Quote from: mcseforsale on May 16, 2012, 10:44:48 am
Yak...is there any links to Bryan's Pyramid sites? I'm having trouble finding any..

Thanks!

/hijack off

That's because there's almost nothing out there, which is really hard to believe.
This is the only one that has any info:
http://www.melright.com/bryans/payramid.htm

RetroRik · « **Reply #101 on:** May 17, 2012, 10:11:16 am »

Fantastic stuff DarthPaul.

You are a man after my own heart. I love to solve a problem by building something out of parts a can find for free or at least on the cheap.

I am particularly liking the Joystick 4/8 way mechanism...
Hmm.. Giving me ideas for mine now you git... lol..

Any LEDs planned anywhere to bling it up.? ( other than the buttons. )

Cheers

RIK

darthpaul · « **Reply #102 on:** May 18, 2012, 11:27:56 pm »

Thanks, I'm on a crusade to have all 4/8way joysticks automated

No Bling

??
Starting at the top; lighted rotating Sith Holocron, automated rotating Monitor, pop-up light guns, automated rotating control panels, side lit plexi sliding panels that conceal the shifter and steering column, soon to be build, sliding panel to conceal gas and brake pedals(a light will shine on the pedals then they are extended).
I was thinking of putting LEDS in the edges of each of the three control panels that would light-up as the panels rotated but that may be more work than it's worth.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #103 on:** May 19, 2012, 11:03:58 am »

I was thinking the same thing about the bling

I like the idea of the panels lighting up, maybe light the one that it is turning to?
(Not trying to pile more work on you

)

Uncle Monkey · « **Reply #104 on:** May 19, 2012, 11:33:09 am »

Quote from: DaOld Man on May 19, 2012, 11:03:58 am

I was thinking the same thing about the bling

I like the idea of the panels lighting up, maybe light the one that it is turning to?
(Not trying to pile more work on you )

i say pile it on, he's clearly a masochist, and all you geniuses need to do as much awesome stuff as possible so inspire the NOOBS in the peanut gallery (like me)

darthpaul · « **Reply #105 on:** May 19, 2012, 03:19:44 pm »

Sure, give me more to think about and do on my vacation

Something like this?

Le Chuck · « **Reply #106 on:** May 19, 2012, 08:10:36 pm »

Quote from: darthpaul on May 19, 2012, 03:19:44 pm

Sure, give me more to think about and do on my vacation
Something like this?

How fun are those video pachinko machines? I've thought about getting one but don't trust the online reviews.

GIZMOGAMES · « **Reply #107 on:** May 20, 2012, 07:02:22 am »

Talk about EYECANDY wow those look awsome nice selection of starwars stuff too hee hee
got any links to those machines

darthpaul · « **Reply #108 on:** May 20, 2012, 06:32:14 pm »

Quote from: Le Chuck on May 19, 2012, 08:10:36 pm

How fun are those video pachinko machines? I've thought about getting one but don't trust the online reviews.

The best I can say is they look cool, playing is just a matter of luck which path the balls take but they do have a fair amount of Bling. If you are going to get one you will need to install a volume control on it. The machine does come with a three position volume control, loud, louder and wake the dead

Sorry no links, I bought them a couple years ago off of ebay.

lcmgadgets · « **Reply #109 on:** May 20, 2012, 08:21:00 pm »

When I first started following this thread, I thought u were way out of control. But the more I see, the more I like. I think I'll have to steal some of your ideas, that is, if I can repeat them--your skill is so far beyond mine it's ridiculous (not that that's saying much--almost everyone on this forum is way beyond me). But the idea of making mame gaming idiot proof is rather appealing.

So congrats, keep up the great work, and keep the posts coming!

darthpaul · « **Reply #110 on:** May 20, 2012, 11:28:38 pm »

I don't think you are the only one thinking I was out of control. The idea was to keep only the controls you need to play a game visible. Even though the build is much more difficult than a so called normal build, my goal is to have a much simpler cabinet to use, especially when company comes over to play. My skills aren't all that great or I wouldn't be pulling this thing apart for the third time. While I have it apart, I'm going to install Molex connectors, so if I have to take it apart again, it will be way easier.
Good luck on your build.

lcmgadgets · « **Reply #111 on:** May 21, 2012, 10:53:13 am »

Quote from: darthpaul on May 20, 2012, 11:28:38 pm

I don't think you are the only one thinking I was out of control. The idea was to keep only the controls you need to play a game visible. Even though the build is much more difficult than a so called normal build, my goal is to have a much simpler cabinet to use, especially when company comes over to play. My skills aren't all that great or I wouldn't be pulling this thing apart for the third time. While I have it apart, I'm going to install Molex connectors, so if I have to take it apart again, it will be way easier.
Good luck on your build.

Hey, the cool factor on this build is so high it more than justifies any craziness. & a lot of what we're (can I include myself when all I've accomplished so far is a really crappy looking ddr pad build, a stack of parts in the basement, & some sketchup drawings?) trying to do here is as much about the building itself as the gaming is (I think I can safely say that if u want a really well built cab, it better b about the build first).

More & more, I like the idea of making it simple for guests. Darn it, I'm almost sold on some big reconsiderations for my illusionary future cab. I'd pretty much decided on a modded Ghost in the Machine clone, but now...

I do have at least one more concern: a heavily automated cab sounds like a lot to go wrong, especially as it sees more use over time. A lot of what you're doing involves moving parts--how durable r they?

...& as for 'my build', I'm always using terms like 'illusionary', or 'fantasy', as if it will never happen. I've got some serious obstacles in my way, but I'm slowly (very slowly) making progress. Right now I'm sketchuping controllers (using way more detail than necessary, but I'm having fun), & the next step is to start cab drawings. I don't have a workshop or anywhere to put one, so my plan is to hire a carpenter to do all the cutting for me. So it is happening, just way slower than I would prefer.

edin_dave · « **Reply #112 on:** May 21, 2012, 05:33:55 pm »

We SO need a video of this

lcmgadgets · « **Reply #113 on:** May 21, 2012, 05:57:58 pm »

+1

darthpaul · « **Reply #114 on:** May 22, 2012, 07:44:30 am »

Quote from: lcmgadgets on May 21, 2012, 10:53:13 am

I do have at least one more concern: a heavily automated cab sounds like a lot to go wrong, especially as it sees more use over time. A lot of what you're doing involves moving parts--how durable r they?

Only time will tell, but really, it's not like all these moving parts are going to be in continuous operation, my biggest concern is, if something fails to work, it can cause something else to break. an example is the sliding panels that conceal the shifter, if these fail to open, the shifter doesn't know that and will continue to rise. Because of these concerns, I have added a series of micro switches to prevent such a disaster, it's a pain in the neck to do but it will help you sleep better at night

Quote

I don't have a workshop or anywhere to put one, so my plan is to hire a carpenter to do all the cutting for me. So it is happening, just way slower than I would prefer.

To bad about the workshop, so if you are planning to add automation, it's a good thing you are spending a lot of time planning, something I didn't do and ended up doing quite a bit of modifications to the original build. On the flip side, you don't want to spend so much time planning that it never gets built.

Quote

We SO need a video of this

I know, I know

darthpaul · « **Reply #115 on:** May 22, 2012, 07:53:18 am »

Changed up the artwork on my one player panel from this.

To this.

vindic8r · « **Reply #116 on:** May 22, 2012, 10:39:26 am »

Most impressive! The Sith language translation in the original design was pretty slick, though.

BTW - minor typo on the second to last line on the left "Through Strength".

darthpaul · « **Reply #117 on:** May 22, 2012, 12:21:59 pm »

I knew something didn't look right, thanks for pointing that out.

Updated panel

vindic8r · « **Reply #118 on:** May 24, 2012, 12:47:26 am »

F*(k yeah! Now that's what I'm talking about!

DaOld Man · « **Reply #119 on:** May 24, 2012, 10:06:51 am »

Looks good Paul.

darthpaul · « **Reply #120 on:** May 24, 2012, 05:51:54 pm »

Ok, I have added some bling along with the pedals door, first some pictures of the sliding door, it slides up and down to conceal the brake and gas pedals. When a driving game is chosen, Controlchoose will issue a command that will have a servo raise the door and extend the pedals. When the next game is chosen that is not a driving game the reverse will happen, I hope.

Yes those are speakers, I was originally going to use the cabinet as a jukebox as well but I'm going to do a standalone one for my next project so I'm not too concerned about covering part of the woofers.

Here is the bling, since I didn't have any room to mount any LEDs, I used the edge lit plexi technique using 2 blue LEDs. I am very happy with the results.

Here is the door mounted on the cabinet.

And with the pedals extended, a red LED comes on when the pedals extend.

I'm planning on using this lighting technique again, right above the coin door. It's going to be similar but a different Sith symbol and the colors will change depending on which control panel you are using.
I'll post a video as well.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #121 on:** May 25, 2012, 10:06:56 am »

I like the bling! That emblem is fantastic.

yaksplat · « **Reply #122 on:** May 25, 2012, 09:39:14 pm »

I assumed that was an EL sheet from the pic.

Well done.

darthpaul · « **Reply #123 on:** May 26, 2012, 07:40:45 am »

No EL sheet, just 2 blue LEDs one on each side, I sanded the back side of the plexi for the edge lighting to work.

Santoro · « **Reply #124 on:** May 26, 2012, 09:20:51 am »

That looks very evenly lit for only 2 LEDs, good work!

Santoro · « **Reply #125 on:** May 26, 2012, 09:33:28 am »

Can't wait to see video of all this in action. Looks good!

darthpaul · « **Reply #126 on:** May 26, 2012, 12:28:08 pm »

OK, here is the Sith symbol above the coin door, it will change colors depending on the panel that is being used. I used the same edge lit technique except this time I printed out a Sith symbol and sandwiched it between 2 pieces of plexi and used 6 LEDs, 2 red, 2 blue and 2 purple.
I know there are better ways to do this but I already had a 12 channel Servo Controller and a micro servo and some button switches. Servo makes one switch, color is blue, makes the other switch color is purple, no switch, color is red. The soon to released CPRotate by DaOld Man will allow me to issue USCCMDs to control the servo movement.

The Sith symbol.

Mounted in the cabinet unlit.

Blue

Red

Purple, it doesn't show up that different than blue in the picture.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #127 on:** May 26, 2012, 09:56:34 pm »

This is really looking good. You gotta go into more detail on how you are making the edge lit plexi things, I can see some cool marquees and what not coming up.

darthpaul · « **Reply #128 on:** May 26, 2012, 11:47:01 pm »

Again, here is the link http://www.instructables.com/id/Edge-Lit-Displays/?ALLSTEPS, all I'm doing is sanding the back of the plexi with an orbital sander using a medium grit sandpaper and sanding down the LEDs to fit better in the plexi and taping off all the edges with aluminum tape to hold in the light. Since I had very little room to mount any LEDs behind the panel, this seemed to be the next best option.

drventure · « **Reply #129 on:** May 27, 2012, 12:01:45 am »

Now that color changing sith symbol is great. You know, if there was a way to detect "player 1" vs "player 2" in mame, and change colors based on who was up, hmmmm. Could MameHooker do that?

darthpaul · « **Reply #130 on:** May 27, 2012, 12:24:30 am »

That would be cool, DaOld Man, is something like that possible?

darthpaul · « **Reply #131 on:** August 25, 2012, 04:12:33 pm »

I didn't want you guys to think I have given up on this, other projects just needed to come first. Since I am constantly testing and refining DaOld Man's various MaLa plugins, I'm constantly using a USB flash drive to transfer files from my main home PC to the Cabinets PC. It was getting to be a pain to always go around the back of my cabinet to plug the drive in and then I was always forgetting to pull it out when I was done(out of sight, out of mind). I decided I needed a USB port in the front of the cabinet but where to put it. Since my coin door has three coin slots and I had mounted my volume control in the center coin return, what better spot to mount the USB port than in the center coin slot.

This is what I used http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B002MW6HRO/ref=oh_details_o00_s00_i00.
I know most people seem to be using this one http://www.pro-audio-warehouse.com/ehusbbab.html?utm_source=googleshopping&utm_medium=cse but when you add in the shipping cost the price is about the same and mine has the USB cable built in and free shipping if your total order is over $25.00.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #132 on:** August 25, 2012, 04:28:35 pm »

I like that idea. I may have to look at that usb port for A Little Rage.

Edit: I checked out the second link and does anyone have more info on this? Does it come with the cable or is it a F to F connector?
Also, that shipping and min. order pretty much sucks.
Checking out the first link next.

One more edit: Paul, that first link is pretty pricey (the stingy side of the force is strong with me).
How did you mount that? Am I correct that the coin door had three coin slots? That would explain the trim matching the other coin slots' trim. Can you show us a behind the coin door pic?

drventure · « **Reply #133 on:** August 25, 2012, 05:11:11 pm »

It's SO much easier to just throw a little Wireless G USB adapter in there. Those things are cheap now, and, given you don't often have to move gigs of files around, work perfect for synching up file sets or updating config files from a separate workstation machine.

Both my buffet cab and my juke have one.

PL1 · « **Reply #134 on:** August 25, 2012, 05:35:22 pm »

Quote from: DaOld Man on August 25, 2012, 04:28:35 pm

I checked out the second link and does anyone have more info on this? Does it come with the cable or is it a F to F connector?

It is the Switchcraft version of the Neutrik feedthru. No cable. Female A to Female B. Reversable barrel -- either the USB A or USB B can be on the panel side.

I usually get Neutrik feedthrus from Allied Electronics, but there are lots of suppliers that carry them.

Focus Attack carries the Neutrik version here.

Scott

darthpaul · « **Reply #135 on:** August 25, 2012, 09:34:36 pm »

Quote from: DaOld Man on August 25, 2012, 04:28:35 pm

One more edit: Paul, that first link is pretty pricey (the stingy side of the force is strong with me).
How did you mount that? Am I correct that the coin door had three coin slots? That would explain the trim matching the other coin slots' trim. Can you show us a behind the coin door pic?

Yes, the coin door has three slots, I guess I should have showed a "how to" pic. I removed the coin slot, cut down the triangle holder thing that comes with the port to fit in the coin slot holder, used a little hot glue to hold it tightly in place and screwed the coin slot holder back in place. I know it's a little more expensive than the other one but it does include a 6' cable and since I bought something else, shipping was free.

darthpaul · « **Reply #136 on:** August 25, 2012, 09:45:33 pm »

Quote from: drventure on August 25, 2012, 05:11:11 pm

It's SO much easier to just throw a little Wireless G USB adapter in there. Those things are cheap now, and, given you don't often have to move gigs of files around, work perfect for synching up file sets or updating config files from a separate workstation machine.

Both my buffet cab and my juke have one.

My Cabinet's PC is already on my home network, I still need to go downstairs to turn it on though, so it's easier just to plug in the flash drive and who knows, I may one day want to use a usb controller.

drventure · « **Reply #137 on:** August 25, 2012, 11:24:26 pm »

Quote from: darthpaul on August 25, 2012, 09:45:33 pm

My Cabinet's PC is already on my home network, I still need to go downstairs to turn it on though, so it's easier just to plug in the flash drive and who knows, I may one day want to use a usb controller.

Ah. Makes sense. And yeah, it's definitely nice to have a USB plug on the front. I actually put one on either side of my CP, for plugging up two hand held controllers. Haven't actually done so yet, but it's there!

Dudeman · « **Reply #138 on:** September 20, 2012, 10:38:21 am »

I've read through the whole thing and maybe I missed something. How exactly are you rotating the CP? The last I read you were having issues with weight and the drive motor not being strong enough. I've been wanting to automate the rotation of my control panel and thought about using a worm drive but I'm having trouble finding a gear big enough.

darthpaul · « **Reply #139 on:** November 18, 2012, 12:23:53 am »

I just seen this sorry for not responding sooner. There never was a problem with the drive motor not being strong enough to rotate the panels. The problem I was having was getting the panels to stop reliably in the correct position using optics and a code wheel. After many failed attempts, I finally just decided to use limit switches.

I've been wanting to automate the rotation of my control panel and thought about using a worm drive but I'm having trouble finding a gear big enough.
That is why I used a gear train, to gain clearance of the rotating panels. I don't see why a worm drive wouldn't work.

darthpaul · « **Reply #140 on:** June 09, 2013, 05:55:13 pm »

Nothing really new to report, just something I would like to change on my monitor rotation. I would like to use limit stops as well as the limit switches to stop rotation. Most times it is difficult to get the monitor to stop in the exact location I want because it's a 20" CRT and its momentum sometimes moves it past where I want it to stop. My thinking is, since I'm using friction to turn the monitor, once it hits the stop block and switch, the worst that can happen is a little slippage.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #141 on:** September 18, 2013, 10:49:17 pm »

Hello Paul.
Just dropped in to refresh my memory on this project.
Any progress?

About using limit stops (AKA mechanical stops); I highly recommend it. If for nothing else, in case a limit switch fails, the monitor cant keep turning and twisting the cables going to it.
Of course with mechanical stops, the motor will be bogged down if the stop is hit, and motor current will shoot up, so make sure your drive can handle it. (This is where a fuse comes in handy. Fuses are cheaper than drives.)
I recommend the stops being past the limit switches so mechanical stops will be at approx. 95 degrees and 355 degrees, but if your monitor coasts after drive turns off, you may need to set the stops at exactly 90 and 0.

BadMouth · « **Reply #142 on:** September 19, 2013, 09:10:10 am »

Quote from: darthpaul on June 09, 2013, 05:55:13 pm

Nothing really new to report, just something I would like to change on my monitor rotation. I would like to use limit stops as well as the limit switches to stop rotation. Most times it is difficult to get the monitor to stop in the exact location I want because it's a 20" CRT and its momentum sometimes moves it past where I want it to stop. My thinking is, since I'm using friction to turn the monitor, once it hits the stop block and switch, the worst that can happen is a little slippage.

The pololu software I'm using allows you to slow the motor as it approaches the ends of travel.
That's how I addressed this issue.
Not sure if there is an equivalent for whatever interface you are using.

Mechanical stops would definitely make it accurate though.
I seem to recall someone doing a manually rotating monitor once upon a time that used magnets on the stops.
That might prevent bounce.

TopJimmyCooks · « **Reply #143 on:** September 19, 2013, 10:32:25 am »

badmouth, can you give details on how you slowed down at the end of travel? I was never able to successfully do that. More than 1 limit switch at each end of travel?

BadMouth · « **Reply #144 on:** September 19, 2013, 10:53:36 am »

Quote from: TopJimmyCooks on September 19, 2013, 10:32:25 am

badmouth, can you give details on how you slowed down at the end of travel? I was never able to successfully do that. More than 1 limit switch at each end of travel?

It's been a while. I'll have to look to refresh my memory.
It will probably be next week before I have time to look at it.
No extra switches or anything.

IIRC, it was these settings:
http://www.pololu.com/docs/0J44/5.2

EDIT: Reading the instructions, it sounds like the deceleration doesn't kick in until after the limit switch is tripped.
Maybe this is why mine kept overshooting and I had to install longer levers on the limit switches.

I dunno. I know I messed with that setting until I got a consistent stopping point.
When vertical, the edge of my widescreen monitor is even with the bottom of the speaker panel, so it's obvious if it's not level.
It drove me nuts when it wouldn't consistently stop in the same place.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #145 on:** September 19, 2013, 12:12:05 pm »

I don't know if those drives you guys are using support it or not, but the best method, IMHO, is to use slow down limit switches, which reduce the speed of the motor considerably when made, then allow the motor to go slow until it hits the stop limit switch.
I toyed with the idea of using that on my mrotate, but there didn't seem to be enough interest in it at the time.
Of course another way would be to use timers in the software.
Example: drive gets horizontal command, motor starts and timer starts. After a few seconds, when monitor is pretty close to the horizontal position, timer times out and motor goes to low speed until the stop limit is made, then motor stops and timer resets.
This would be the simplest way to do it. I don't like using timers to control motion, since things in the real world changes, and time needed may change, but in the case of giving the monitor a slow down point, I suppose it would be ok, I mean you still have the stop limits if something goes unexpectedly.

TopJimmyCooks · « **Reply #146 on:** September 19, 2013, 12:24:25 pm »

Ok I'm not missing anything then. it's not really possible to change speeds with this motor/controller combo. you're changing the braking after the limit switch engages.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #147 on:** September 19, 2013, 01:05:55 pm »

Don't you have script to control the drive? Can you insert a timer to slow it down like I suggested above?
I don't know, just asking.
What is the script command you send your motor? I might can throw something together to control it with a timer.

BadMouth · « **Reply #148 on:** September 19, 2013, 01:40:21 pm »

Quote from: DaOld Man on September 19, 2013, 01:05:55 pm

Don't you have script to control the drive? Can you insert a timer to slow it down like I suggested above?
I don't know, just asking.
What is the script command you send your motor? I might can throw something together to control it with a timer.

Good point. The speed can be specified in the command line.

smccmd --speed 3200

(-3200 for reverse)
Just have it run full speed for a period of time then send another command with a slower speed.
Not sure if it would transition smooth or abruptly. You could do it in increments.

TopJimmyCooks · « **Reply #149 on:** September 19, 2013, 01:54:47 pm »

That is very possible. my rotation duration is pretty consistent. I'm sure Badmouth's is super consistent since he's using a linac. I just never did anything more with it because it worked ok at the constant speed. I'm only using the nub on a cherry switch as the limit switch and body of the switch as the hard stop. the actuation time between stopping the motor and braking is decent to keep it from hitting hard. could be a little softer.

I'll play around with a stopwatch or something and see if the timed slowdown works.

darthpaul · « **Reply #150 on:** September 21, 2013, 10:29:17 pm »

Quote from: DaOld Man on September 18, 2013, 10:49:17 pm

Hello Paul.
Just dropped in to refresh my memory on this project.
Any progress?

About using limit stops (AKA mechanical stops); I highly recommend it. If for nothing else, in case a limit switch fails, the monitor cant keep turning and twisting the cables going to it.
Of course with mechanical stops, the motor will be bogged down if the stop is hit, and motor current will shoot up, so make sure your drive can handle it. (This is where a fuse comes in handy.

Hey Ken, the project is still very much alive, just need to remove my garage door and build a wall and install a Mini-Split, then I can turn my attention back to the Cabinet(both projects should be completed by the end of next week, I hope). I'm not worried about the motor bogging down because the motor will just spin like car wheels on ice once the stop is hit.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #151 on:** September 21, 2013, 10:47:05 pm »

Quote from: darthpaul on September 21, 2013, 10:29:17 pm

Hey Ken, the project is still very much alive, just need to remove my garage door and build a wall and install a Mini-Split, then I can turn my attention back to the Cabinet(both projects should be completed by the end of next week, I hope). I'm not worried about the motor bogging down because the motor will just spin like car wheels on ice once the stop is hit.

Cool! Cant wait to see what you have in mind.

darthpaul · « **Reply #152 on:** June 01, 2014, 03:31:24 pm »

The itch is back and I need to scratch it. My Home Theater, you can see it here http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,130300.0.html is up and running even though there are a few more things I would like to do, so it's time to get back to work on this cabinet.
I got a little carried away with servos and was expecting a little too much from them, so I plan on replacing some of them with other devices. First up is the Light Guns, after seeing the post about recoil, I knew that would never work in mine because of the added weight. The servos I am using can only lift so much and I was already at their limit with the guns, so I decided to replace them with Actuators. One down one to go, I just need to wire it up.

steinar-t · « **Reply #153 on:** June 02, 2014, 09:57:07 am »

;DWhere on the cab will this sit? Got a pic of the guns when holster is open?
As im planning somthing like this myself

darthpaul · « **Reply #154 on:** June 02, 2014, 07:28:36 pm »

I can't believe I never took a full picture of the Cabinet. They are on each side of the cabinet and the guns will raise up and push the lid open. don't worry pics will be coming.

darthpaul · « **Reply #155 on:** July 20, 2014, 12:28:09 pm »

Question, what to do with a keyboard and mouse when not needed? I know many of you have built keyboard drawers and I'm sure many of you have installed USB ports and just plug them in when needed. I chose to get one of those small wireless keyboards but I still needed a place to put it when not in use. I suppose I could just leave it on top of the cabinet but that seemed too easy and nothing on this cabinet has been easy, so why should I start now. I wanted it hidden and the only available spot was between the speakers under the Marquee. I made a small door, added some hinges, fabricated the linkage to attach to a servo and added a doorbell button to open and close the door. I had to write a small script to allow the servo to open and close the door by pushing the button.

darthpaul · « **Reply #156 on:** July 27, 2014, 12:34:54 pm »

Took another look at my sound system after burning out my L-Pad I use for volume control, so I decided to pick this up
because it seems that many here on the forums are using something like it.

Well I have to say, what a piece of junk, nothing but distortion. So I decided to go to the old standby, it's probably a little overkill and very large, fortunately I have the room.

This was the first stereo I ever bought for myself back when you could buy things in Radio Shack besides Cell phones.
I could never bring myself to get rid of it because how we all know, you never know when you are going to need it.
Since the L-Pad burned out, I went with the standard audio stereo pot and while I was at it, added some lighting.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #157 on:** July 28, 2014, 01:39:05 pm »

Cool.
Bummer about the bad amp.
I like your idea for the hidden keyboard.

darthpaul · « **Reply #158 on:** September 27, 2014, 03:44:37 pm »

Took a few videos today of the Light guns and Driving accessories.

darthpaul · « **Reply #159 on:** September 27, 2014, 04:09:05 pm »

I also had to do something with the sides, I really didn't want to get into artwork because of the cost and the whole process of designing it. I decided to keep it simple. I cut out a Sith Symbol out of 1/2" MDF. I routed out 3/8" on the back for a 7" piece of plexi to fit and painted the Sith Symbol red. I then attached a vinyl Galactic Empire logo onto the plexi and added some blue strip lights. I also added some labels above the admin buttons.

DaOld Man · « **Reply #160 on:** September 27, 2014, 06:49:13 pm »

This is great! You are the automation king!!

I like the side emblem too.
Great job!!

nordemoniac · « **Reply #161 on:** September 29, 2014, 04:28:47 am »

Awesome project!

So are you going to do a lot of software control on it? Automatically switching to the correct equipment based on game selection? F.eks. a driving game will automatically pull out the pedals, and remove anything unnecessary for that game, and display "Please mount steering wheel"

Keep us updated! I want more videos

nordemoniac · « **Reply #162 on:** September 29, 2014, 01:37:50 pm »

Quote from: darthpaul on September 27, 2014, 04:09:05 pm

I also had to do something with the sides, I really didn't want to get into artwork because of the cost and the whole process of designing it. I decided to keep it simple.

Ehm, I don't think you are ever again entitled too use that phrase after starting this project.

darthpaul · « **Reply #163 on:** October 05, 2014, 12:17:46 pm »

Quote from: nordemoniac on September 29, 2014, 04:28:47 am

Awesome project!
So are you going to do a lot of software control on it? Automatically switching to the correct equipment based on game selection? F.eks. a driving game will automatically pull out the pedals, and remove anything unnecessary for that game, and display "Please mount steering wheel"

Keep us updated! I want more videos

To answer you question about automatically switching to the correct equipment, yes I am. I am using DaOldMan's Controlchoose plugin http://forum.arcadecontrols.com/index.php/topic,117692.0.html. The pedals, shifter and steering column come out automatically when a game that uses them is chosen and retract when a different type of game is selected.
Because the Player has to push the wires for the Light Gun back down into the cabinet, I decided it made more sense for the Player to control the guns retracting back down by pushing a button. I like the "mount the steering wheel" idea, I have to think about that one.

nordemoniac · « **Reply #164 on:** October 06, 2014, 02:46:13 pm »

Awesome!
How about spring retracts for the pistol cables? Maybe like the air hose you find on garages and gas stations? Puls out, and it locks in place, then another pull unlocks it... I don't know, maybe a stupid idea.
Although I don't have any links at the moment, I know that there are wireless USB (WUSB) alternatives. Could that be a possibility?

DaOld Man · « **Reply #165 on:** October 07, 2014, 02:44:58 am »

I like the wireless idea.
You may still want a button to retract the guns, just so no one has a hand in the way when they retract. Of course you could also use a slip clutch on the closing mechanism that would not apply enough pressure to hurt someone, (Think CD drive door closer), but that is very iffy and could be a maintenance pain in the butt.

nordemoniac · « **Reply #166 on:** October 07, 2014, 08:20:58 am »

How about a microswitch/sensor which checks if the gun is in place before retracting? Waits 5 seconds after placing back gun, then retracts.
Would Arduino + Xbee maybe be able to give you wireless USB ports? I couldn't find any (cheap) solutions for wireless USB.

dkersten · « **Reply #167 on:** October 07, 2014, 11:02:03 am »

If the driving controls will retract automatically, you might want to consider a microswitch to check that the wheel is disconnected first (or at least a safety switch that triggers if the retraction starts and the wheel is still on. Either that or replace the threaded bolt on wheel with a keyed shaft so if it does retract with the wheel on, the wheel will just slide out of the shaft and fall off.

Awesome work, a lot of sweet stuff here. Would love to see some glossy vinyl art to compliment the awesome mechanics.

darthpaul · « **Reply #168 on:** October 12, 2014, 03:25:15 pm »

I did think of that, what I did was connect a bracket with a slot to the steering column, this will prevent it from retracting when the wheel is still attached. The panels won't close until the column is fully retracted.

Jimbo · « **Reply #169 on:** October 23, 2014, 05:58:37 am »

I'm curious what you do with the dust washers on the joysticks (if anything) to hold them in place when the CP unit is rotating. Do they fall along the joystick shafts when the joystick is pointing towards the ground? Or do you have some method of holding them in place?

darthpaul · « **Reply #170 on:** February 02, 2022, 07:01:39 pm »

I know it has been a long time since I posted but I have thrown in the towel on this crazy cabinet. It became way too complicated, I just could never get those rotating control panels to work the way I wanted them to. I started dismantling it this past weekend to make room for the Mandalorian Pinball Machine I should be getting next month. I don't know what I'm going to do with all the servos and actuators and so many screws. I'm planning on bulding a Pedestal Cabinet using the current 50" TV in the Basement. I'm going to try and keep it simple but I may add a little automation in it.


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