Author Topic: Philco 38-3 Jukebox Project (Read 11567 times)

JRoz · « **on:** October 31, 2011, 03:59:30 pm »

Hey Guys,

So I picked up an old beat up philco 38-3 radio off of ebay on Friday, and decided to build a jukebox out of it (inspiration from Bobby115 and Meph). I'm using a 15" elo touchscreen and a desktop that will sit inside the jukebox itself. For sound i'm actually going to be using my existing surround sound system in my apartment that is positioned through out the room and use a wireless usb sound card that taps into my receiver. Unlike the others, i'm actually mounting the touchscreen behind the face and will be able to use the buttons if I choose to. I'm not exactly sure what i'm going to use them for (power, volume maybe) or just keep them blank with the dials in them just for show.

Friday

Step 1. Cleaned the cabinet with some Murphy's Oil soap

2. Took the grill out and resurfaced it with some black speaker vinyl

3. Lined up the faceplate of my monitor inside of the cabinet so I can accurately mark off where my cuts will have to be. I actually had a second broken monitor laying around so i've been able to use the face of it to make measurements.

I'll have to get some more pictures up but this is what the cabinet looked like beforehand

JRoz · « **Reply #1 on:** October 31, 2011, 04:02:26 pm »

Sunday

Here are pictures after stripping out the grill and cutting the hole for the monitor. As you can see and I already warned everyone that I can't cut a straight line for the life of me and I already chipped the outside of the frame a little right below my square. Luckily I am putting a slim frame around the outside which will cover my horrible cuts and the split wood!

JRoz · « **Reply #2 on:** October 31, 2011, 04:02:41 pm »

Next step was cleaning up and making sure I didn't have any saw dust or crap on the wood before applying some Howard's Restore-A-Finish (mahogany).

For anyone that hasn't used this stuff, wow what a difference. It doesn't fully restore your wood, but if you want an easy one step solution to fill in any ugly scratches or blemishes on your cabinet...it does wonders! The mahogany color matched perfectly and The pictures aren't as great and you can't really see the difference, but i'll make sure I take some better pictures once its all done (notice the ugly wood chip underneath the square I cut for the monitor)

Pics are before applying Howard Feed-N-Wax and on a crappy blackberry camera.

JRoz · « **Reply #3 on:** October 31, 2011, 04:17:48 pm »

so i'm at that point now where I'm looking to make a frame around the hole I cut for the monitor. The problem i'm running into is that any of these frames on ebay or framing websites only carry frames that are no less than 3/4" high, and I really wanted to get a low profile one that is maybe a quarter " thick. The width of the frame will be about 1-1.25" so it covers up my crap cuts and blemishes while giving the monitor a perfect square look. I can always adjust the position and settings on my screen to make more narrow or wider as needed. Can anyone recommend a good framing solution? I'd rather not start cutting strips of wood and sanding them. You saw the work I did with my jigsaw!!

emphatic · « **Reply #4 on:** October 31, 2011, 06:41:24 pm »

I like how you're using your existing sound system.

JRoz · « **Reply #5 on:** October 31, 2011, 10:50:35 pm »

Here are some pictures after the Restore-A-Finish, Feed-N-Wax, and the black speaker cloth attached. All I need to do know is get a frame for it and i'm done. The frame is proving to be the biggest pain in the

. The inside dimensions for the screen I decided will be 8.5" x 11.5" I'm going to lose a half inch high and low because i'm horrible at cutting a straight line. The width of the frame is 1.5" so the entire dimensions should be 11.5" x 13.5" The depth or height of the frame is proving to be the problem. I can't really find anything less than .5", I found one that could work but not sure yet if he can do half sizes on my 8.5 x 11.5 measurements. If he can do those i'll probably order a frame for $15 or so. Its cherry maroon which looks pretty close, but I decide to put some restore a finish that I used on the cabinet to get similar coloring. Ideally I'd really like to get some 1/4" or 1/8" pieces of wood but no one makes a frame like that. Plus I couldn't cut it anyways if I tried hah. I'm thinking of maybe going to the hardware store down the street to see if they could cut me a frame. I believe they charge $4 a cut to do mider cuts so may end up costing me about $30 with supplies. Any other thoughts guys?..please chime in!

thanks

JRoz · « **Reply #6 on:** November 01, 2011, 10:46:42 am »

JRoz · « **Reply #7 on:** November 01, 2011, 12:27:24 pm »

These are my two options

A. Get any type of frame around the monitor and cover it in the same black speaker mesh I have on the bottom of the cabinet.

B. Get a wood frame and use the same stain that I used on the cabinet to make it match as close as possible.

(these are quick photoshops)

Thoughts?

drventure · « **Reply #8 on:** November 01, 2011, 12:58:22 pm »

Definitely the wood frame.

If you can get a pretty thin frame, and support the monitor from behind, I think it'd look best (as opposed to a thick frame that sticks out from the cabinet).

emphatic · « **Reply #9 on:** November 01, 2011, 01:06:15 pm »

How about using some speaker cloth to make a "frame"? As the cloth is already a part of the build it could feel "natural" around the screen.

drventure · « **Reply #10 on:** November 01, 2011, 01:08:25 pm »

@ emphatic

That's what he was suggesting...

Quote

cover it in the same black speaker mesh

I'd just be concerned about it getting grimy or tearing (since you'll be poking at the screen much more than you'd be poking at the speaker area down low).

JRoz · « **Reply #11 on:** November 01, 2011, 01:17:26 pm »

Good point, I agree - that is one of my concerns, however it may be able to be cleaned easily and I can always rewrap an area. The speaker cloth would match the bottom part at least. If I use a wood, its not going to match the rest of the wood around it, and it already has 2 different shades of wood. The wood may be over done in this case

drventure · « **Reply #12 on:** November 01, 2011, 01:24:02 pm »

Yeah, I can see what you mean. Unless you do an accent type frame, just matching the frame to the cabinet could be too much.

You could do a wood frame, paint it a flat black and do a thin "matte" inside it that surrounds the monitor and wrap it with the cloth. That could look pretty good too.

JRoz · « **Reply #13 on:** November 01, 2011, 01:28:34 pm »

I think I finally found a frame guy that will give me my dimensions. He has a cherry maroon finish that looks like it could work. I'm going to buy it, coat it with the same restor-finish mahogany color that I used on the cabinet and see how it turns out. If its way off i'm just going to wrap the thing in the black vinyl and call it a day

JRoz · « **Reply #14 on:** November 01, 2011, 03:40:41 pm »

any recommendations on applying the frame to the wood? I do have some gorilla-glue but not sure I want to make it permanent. Any thoughts?

drventure · « **Reply #15 on:** November 01, 2011, 05:44:09 pm »

I'd consider some velcro strips then. Easy on, easy off.

You might also use an angle bracket screwed to the back of the frame and the inside edge of your monitor hole (though I'm not sure you have clearance for that).

leapinlew · « **Reply #16 on:** November 02, 2011, 03:23:57 pm »

Quote from: JRoz on November 01, 2011, 03:40:41 pm

any recommendations on applying the frame to the wood? I do have some gorilla-glue but not sure I want to make it permanent. Any thoughts?

Use the glue to attach some thicker boards to the underneath. Something 3/4" thick so you can get a screw to bite into it. Then build something to hold the monitor in place. Don't glue the monitor

JRoz · « **Reply #17 on:** November 02, 2011, 03:33:59 pm »

The monitor is actually already supported behind the frame via the 8 screw holes and a piece of wood that is attached to the monitor mounts behind it to keep it in place - Its very secure as is even without the wood support, I'll send pics of it soon. As far as the picture frame on the outside - i'm either using velcro as suggested or gorilla glue. I dont think I want to drill through the face of the cabinet or through the picture frame itself because its only going to be about a 1/2" thick.

leapinlew · « **Reply #18 on:** November 02, 2011, 04:28:17 pm »

Quote from: JRoz on November 02, 2011, 03:33:59 pm

As far as the picture frame on the outside - i'm either using velcro as suggested or gorilla glue.

I see. My mistake. In that case, if the decision were mine, I'd probably screw it from underneath and use some glue. I wouldn't be concerned with drilling holes in the face since it will always have a frame on it.

Meph · « **Reply #19 on:** November 03, 2011, 04:44:03 pm »

Looking nice Jroz, I have been too lazy to get anything else done with mine. I might get off my butt tonight and do something. I'm still debating my framing options also.

JRoz · « **Reply #20 on:** November 03, 2011, 04:52:59 pm »

Yea thats the only part thats been pretty annoying. I got the computer all set up with XP lite and running it in the gamex shell so it boots up first thing with all of the XP stuff hidden.

What are you thinking about for your power button. I think i'm going to rig one of my open button holes with a switch. Would love to use the original button but that may be tough.

Ordered my frame last night, going with an 8 1/2" x 11 1/2" frame so I can get a 1/4" on all corners to hide my sweet jigsaw cutting skills. The total frame will be 11 1/2" x 14 1/2" which will give me enough room on the bottom for all 3 buttons, plus look even on top. The width of the frame will allow it to sit perfectly inside the already wood stripes on both endswith maybe 1/8" between both sides. I should have it in next week but until then i'll just be loading up music and figuring out the buttons situation.

Meph · « **Reply #21 on:** November 04, 2011, 05:21:02 pm »

Quote from: JRoz on November 03, 2011, 04:52:59 pm

What are you thinking about for your power button. I think i'm going to rig one of my open button holes with a switch. Would love to use the original button but that may be tough.

Save yourself some trouble and skip that idea. Mount your power button on the back. Every kid, every drunk, every stupid person will push that button if they can see it. If your using a smart power strip that will power everything on with the PC power then its just trouble having that button visible. I tried to tell my friend this when he build his juke but he wanted it on the front. First party he had multiple people power off the juke because they just couldn't help pushing the button.

JRoz · « **Reply #22 on:** November 04, 2011, 05:32:36 pm »

ah very good point haha. Ok well in that case i'll have the buttons but set to blank. Power button will be in back and yes i'm using one of those belkin smart AV's to control everything. Smart man Meph!

JRoz · « **Reply #23 on:** November 10, 2011, 08:12:57 am »

Well guys here it is. I still need to do something about the button area..I dont know if I like how it turned out yet

..what do you think? (Disregard the PC on the right, thats going away)

drventure · « **Reply #24 on:** November 10, 2011, 09:54:54 am »

You know, It looks good, but there's something about that screen that doesn't quite "fit". I just can't put my finger on it.

I'm not sure that framing it in wood would be better or not.

Don't get me wrong. I love the resto, and the angle on the top of the cab is perfect for the screen (my radio cab is an old Majestic that has a straight vertical front, going to be A LOT harder to figure out how to put a screen on it).

Maybe the buttons are part of it. They seem a little close to the bottom of the screen, cramping everything up.

I'll have to stare at it more....

JRoz · « **Reply #25 on:** November 10, 2011, 10:02:27 am »

yea for the buttons i'm just going to move them down further...they aren't going to be functional and are pretty big so i'm going to give them some room off of the frame. The actual frame itself though..you don't think its to thick?

JRoz · « **Reply #26 on:** November 10, 2011, 10:08:37 am »

I think the frame is too thick and of course instead of just clipping it on to the front to see if I like it..I lather the thing with gorilla glue and put it on. Now I can't really change it without ruining the surface. I'm afraid if I some how get it off i'm going to damage the wood around it

JRoz · « **Reply #27 on:** November 10, 2011, 10:22:33 am »

Maybe once I put the buttons in it will look better. Do you think I should paint the buttons black or keep them as is? They are very dark brown.

drventure · « **Reply #28 on:** November 10, 2011, 11:07:44 am »

I'd leave the buttons darkbrown.

That may be it, the frame too thick.

I suspect you could get it off without too much hassle, You can't leverage it off though. That'd probably peel the veneer. But if you could cut it off... then just sand back the veneer a little, it should work.

I'd probably leave the knobs original or dark brown. Not black.

I've been looking for some good knobs for my cab as well, dang, the people on ebay are proud of those things....

JRoz · « **Reply #29 on:** November 10, 2011, 11:10:58 am »

i'm afraid to touch the frame at this point...its pretty lathered with that damn gorilla glue and I cant figure out a way how I could possibly take that thing off without damaging the sides of the wood. I may just leave the frame as is..i'm thinking its the missing buttons that are doing it. I'm going to move the two side ones down a little to give it a little room and then one in the middle.

Benevolance · « **Reply #30 on:** November 10, 2011, 04:47:59 pm »

I'm glad I'm not the only one who does the whole permanently-alter-something-before-deciding-whether-I-should schtick.

I agree that the frame is a little thick. Part of it - and this may just be the resolution of the images - is that the radio has a nice wood grain texture, which gives a feeling of busyness to the radio. The frame doesn't quite have that same presence, so its sort of a big, thick void around the screen. I don't think you really have to do anything. Once you get some buttons on there and get used to looking at it, it'll look natural.

Otherwise, you could try dressing up the frame a little. Decorate it with some brass box corners, or some stamping, or whatever suits your household aesthetic.

I've purchased stuff from Chinese brass hardware in the past to decorate my hanging wine glass rack and dress up my Billy book cases. Not sure if you're quite as into the brass and wood steampunk look, though. But if you are, it's a relatively inexpensive way to dress up the frame.

JRoz · « **Reply #31 on:** November 10, 2011, 04:50:50 pm »

yea i think i'm going to mount some buttons a little lower and make sure to just cover up the holes. I'm having a bunch of people over in a few weeks so I should get a good consensus on what they think. Than after that i may end up ripping the damn thing off and doing it again haha. Yea I need to learn to test things and have some patience - i'm always rushing it!

drventure · « **Reply #32 on:** November 10, 2011, 06:19:10 pm »

That Chinese Brass Hardware site has some nice stuff. I'm bookmarking that one!

JRoz · « **Reply #33 on:** November 10, 2011, 06:33:18 pm »

alright so I just ran home, grabbed some double sided tape, and put the buttons on...should have done this with the frame in the first place!

Anyways..i think the buttons make it look much better...that much better that i'm considering not hucking the jukebox out of the window and keeping it as is for a little while. What do you think..you agree they make it look better?

Benevolance · « **Reply #34 on:** November 10, 2011, 06:44:57 pm »

It does look more complete with the buttons in place. Are you still going to adjust the button placement as previously mentioned?

JRoz · « **Reply #35 on:** November 10, 2011, 06:52:47 pm »

i have to pretty much leave it where they are..otherwise the holes will be showing. I'm gong to move them down as far as I can

Benevolance · « **Reply #36 on:** November 10, 2011, 06:57:19 pm »

Did you keep any of the veneer from the hole you cut for the monitor? You could always square-up a strip to run beneath the frame and re-drill the holes.

JRoz · « **Reply #37 on:** November 10, 2011, 07:00:12 pm »

that would have been the right thing to do..but no of course i didnt


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