Cruis'n USA PSU replacement

[Jollywest]

Hi,

I have recently aquired an Upright Cruis'n USA arcade, it's complete but non-working and untested.

I checked the PSU and the fuse had blown, I replaced this but it just blows everytime I change it.

I was going to order another PSU but I when I checked the Happ PSU ref page HERE, I noticed that the PSU listed for Cruis'n USA there does'nt match the one I have in the cab. (See attached photo)

So should I go for a like for like replacement (which I don't know ever worked) or the one listed on that site?

[ed12]

that is a straight up starned switching psu for video game's
just do yourself a fav and match the 5volt current

but before u go any futher which fuse is it dumping ?
the 1 in the psu or the 1 that is in the ac group ?
what i am getting at is there could be other unerlying thing's causing that fuse to blow,excessitve current draw on the psu would be my first thought
if it ia the 1 in it

ed

[Jollywest]

Yea its the 1 inside the PSU, 250V 4A

What could be causing the excessive current draw then in this case and how could I test it?

[BobA]

The PSU you have in the cab is a generic switcher that is usually lower powered than the one that Happs recommends.   The one from Happs looks to be a 200w xt ps just like used on older pcs.   You could power up the PSU in the cab without the load of the board and see if the fuse still blows.
\

[MonMotha]

Most of those "SMPS in a box" seem to shut down if overloaded rather than blow the input fuse.  A blown fuse, especially if it's immediate upon applying power or "blown hard" with blackened glass, probably indicates a fault on the primary side of the supply.  Fair easier to just replace the thing than repair it for most people, especially given that they're fairly cheap.

You could try running it with just a dummy load such as a 10 ohm, 5W resistor on the 5V output.  If it runs in this configuration, there is indeed a problem with an overload.

[Jollywest]

Cheers for the info guys.
I should get time tonight to try a few things.
I did order a another 5v psu yesterday morning, so with any luck that may turn up today as well.

[Jollywest]

Ok sorry I haven't been back sooner, I've only just had chance to try it.

I swapped the PSU's over and it seems fine, No blown fuse but not much else either. Red light is lit on the PSU, the 3 on Game PCB are as 1 Constantly on, 1 Flashing & 1 Off, there is 1 lit on the Drive Control PCB and the speakers make a brief noise but not a thing from the monitor, (which probably shouldn't be surprising as its a Wells Gardner U5000 as far as I can see.) I don't hear the game running either though. So I'm thinking bust monitor & faulty Game PCB at least ?

The ultimate goal for the cab is to use it as a PC Emulated Sega Model 2 & 3 Driving cab, using the existing Happ controls and FFB motor with the Immersion touchsense PCB to interface it to the PC and sell off the rest of the parts (albeit as faulty by the looks of it).

I would of liked to use the existing arcade monitor though but since it is the problematic U5000 what would be the most cost-effective option in the long run?;
1) Replace Monitor completely
2) Replace Chassis
3) Repair Chassis using 3 service kits (if it hasn't already had the repairs done, I'll post Chassis pics in the monitor forum to see if anyone can tell)



 

[ed12]

no i do not see that mod kit
it should b a resistor on a tie bar on the right hand side
for the vertical out power in
simpler just to replace that monitor completly
i have done a ton of these and truly are a pile of muffing smoking xxxx
and congrad's on the psu problem
and to the sound that could be a pile of reason's
they make great mame machine's
done a few now

ed

[Jollywest]

Cheers Ed, I was swaying towards a complete replacement and will go for that now.