Author Topic: Mortal Kombat II arcade help (Read 12663 times)

Ryoshin · « **on:** September 12, 2011, 12:47:08 am »

Yesterday I bought a Mortal Kombat II arcade machine. It's not an original it was converted from I don't know what. This is my first arcade machine so please bear with me. The machine powers on fine but it always returns a CMOS invalid error. I replaced the battery today and that did not change anything. Today it also started saying ROM U49 is bad, I cannot find this anywhere on my board, also I don't always get this error. Regardless of the errors it throws up the game still loads up and I am able to play, but there are a few issues. When you insert coins or use the button in the coin door to bypass it at first it will say 1/1 then it'll just get all random like 247/1 etc. Sometimes it will even say 31733 credits needed to play. Also sometimes when the game boots up and you play after every round that you win it will say "1 wins in a row you are the ultimate champion" or something to that effect and asks you to put your name in and the win count resets after every match. Sometimes it does not do this but most of the time it does. I finally figured out how to get into the test menu today, and when I try to restore factory settings it tells me there's failure in the CMOS RAM. I apologize if this is just a bunch of garbled mess, but I don't really know where to start and I've been playing with this thing for the past 12 hours or so. I just finished reseating all the roms on the PCB and the soundboard and it changed nothing. I've also checked the voltages at the PSU and at the JAMMA connector *at least that's what i think it is* and they are fine.

I'm also having a monitor issue. The image on the monitor is too wide. I've played with all of the controls and got it looking great except for this issue as there is no pot for horizontal size. There also seems to be a bad Cap on the board for the monitor as well. I'm very hesitant to mess with that thing it just gives me chills. Supposedly there is some kind of horizontal control that I can tweak with some kind of tool, but I cannot locate it.

Any help would be greatly appreciated, cuz I really don't know what I'm doing, but I have done lots of research the past day or two. I included two pictures that I felt were the most relevent as they are big pictures and there is a limit per post.

Malenko · « **Reply #1 on:** September 12, 2011, 08:04:52 am »

I believe U49 is the scratch ram for CMOS. can you change the switch to use dips instead of CMOS?

There's been a couple of posts about a bad U49 on BYOAC before. I usually post first asking if you've changed the dipswitch to use dipswitch settings instead of CMOS and if you've replaced the battery.

As for replacing the U49 scratch ram chip,the part # is:

LH5160-10L
Sharp Japan
9207 7 DC

As for the width, there should be a width adjustment coil, but you'll need a special tool to adjust it (that sort of looks like a plastic allen key)

Ryoshin · « **Reply #2 on:** September 12, 2011, 10:59:20 am »

Even when I use dipswitch I still get CMOS errors. The U49 error only shows up every now and then, but you say it's scratch ram, and when in the test menu and I try to reset things it gives me a CMOS RAM Error regardless as to if it says anything about U49 on boot. As for the battery, changing it did nothing. Thank you for the part number for the U49, I believe I know where it's at on the board now. I do believe it has a width adjustment coil, I just can't find it!

EDIT: I'm still having trouble locating that part on my board. Also, do you know the best place I can buy a replacement from? I did a google search but it's coming up with a chip that looks nothing like anything on my board. Thanks again.
EDIT 2: The only Sharp chip on my board is part number LH5268A-10LL Sharp Japan 9323 7D. I assume that's the chip I need to replace. Would I still need to get the part number that you said or try to find this one?

Malenko · « **Reply #3 on:** September 12, 2011, 01:45:09 pm »

Can you post pix of your board? I doubt its a bootleg, but Id like to see for sure. Also, are your dips set to a country other than USA?

leapinlew · « **Reply #4 on:** September 12, 2011, 02:32:47 pm »

Quote from: Malenko on September 12, 2011, 08:04:52 am

As for the width, there should be a width adjustment coil, but you'll need a special tool to adjust it (that sort of looks like a plastic allen key)

Malenko is telling the truth (Unlike all those times when he is a filthy liar). I actually used a long metal len wrench and while it did heat up, I had about 5-6 minutes before I had to pull it off and let it rest. It didn't take long to adjust but it did take about 15-20 turns before the width was right.

Here is the video I watched

Ryoshin · « **Reply #5 on:** September 12, 2011, 03:28:36 pm »

Quote from: Malenko on September 12, 2011, 01:45:09 pm

Can you post pix of your board? I doubt its a bootleg, but Id like to see for sure. Also, are your dips set to a country other than USA?

I'm pretty sure it's set to USA. I'll post some pics I took previously, if they're not good enough let me know and I'll pull the board and take pics.

Ryoshin · « **Reply #6 on:** September 12, 2011, 03:34:27 pm »

Quote from: leapinlew on September 12, 2011, 02:32:47 pm

Quote from: Malenko on September 12, 2011, 08:04:52 am
As for the width, there should be a width adjustment coil, but you'll need a special tool to adjust it (that sort of looks like a plastic allen key)

Malenko is telling the truth (Unlike all those times when he is a filthy liar). I actually used a long metal len wrench and while it did heat up, I had about 5-6 minutes before I had to pull it off and let it rest. It didn't take long to adjust but it did take about 15-20 turns before the width was right.

So it's okay to use metal? I read that you can easily break the knob. I'm not worried about it heating up, I'm just scared of the monitor so more than likely I'll be adjusting it while it is off. I have a ton of allen wrenches to choose from so maybe I can use one of those? No store around here carries the plastic tool.

leapinlew · « **Reply #7 on:** September 12, 2011, 04:13:28 pm »

Quote from: Ryoshin on September 12, 2011, 03:34:27 pm

Quote from: leapinlew on September 12, 2011, 02:32:47 pm
Quote from: Malenko on September 12, 2011, 08:04:52 am
As for the width, there should be a width adjustment coil, but you'll need a special tool to adjust it (that sort of looks like a plastic allen key)

Malenko is telling the truth (Unlike all those times when he is a filthy liar). I actually used a long metal len wrench and while it did heat up, I had about 5-6 minutes before I had to pull it off and let it rest. It didn't take long to adjust but it did take about 15-20 turns before the width was right.

So it's okay to use metal? I read that you can easily break the knob. I'm not worried about it heating up, I'm just scared of the monitor so more than likely I'll be adjusting it while it is off. I have a ton of allen wrenches to choose from so maybe I can use one of those? No store around here carries the plastic tool.

No doubt! I drove to several stores and the puzzled looks from the sales reps got annoying fast.

I used metal and I left the monitor on, but one tip I saw suggested turning off the monitor between adjustments. I used a long allen wrench. It's tricky to get back there.

Ryoshin · « **Reply #8 on:** September 12, 2011, 04:35:29 pm »

Yeah, I'd like to get a longer one. Monitors just give me the chills lol. Home Depot or the like a good place to get a long one?

EDIT: I just went to Lowes to get extra long allen key set... Doesn't have the right size ARGH! I got one that's just too small and one that's just too big.

EDIT 2: *Sigh* I seem to have some how ruined the width adjustment. Allen key will no longer go in, I suppose my allen key although seemed to be the right size was just slightly too small. Also my adjustment looks nothing like all the videos and pics I see, instead of the usual white with the head at the very time, mine is black, fatter and has a deep hole and that's where the adjustment is, it's really a big PIA. I'm beginning to think I shouldn't have bought this machine for the price I paid for it.

Ryoshin · « **Reply #9 on:** September 12, 2011, 09:51:35 pm »

Ok I decided to adjust the width with the monitor on. No matter what I do I cannot get the adjustment to turn it just wont budge, I'm afraid I'm going to strip it even worse. But I found out that just sticking the allen key in there fixes the picture and makes it perfect. Anyone know what that means? Would it hurt anything to just leave an allen key in there all the time? Also when I pull the allen key out there's a bunch of really nasty black tar-like looking liquid all over the key, any idea what that is?

EDIT: DUR! nevermind the allen key is getting so hot it is melting the plastic.

Malenko · « **Reply #10 on:** September 12, 2011, 10:26:42 pm »

DONT LEAVE THE KEY IN THERE!

I worked late didnt get a chance to pull out my MKII board. the pix you have are of a legit MKII board. look up the dips, Im pretty sure yours is set to france.

Ryoshin · « **Reply #11 on:** September 12, 2011, 10:48:22 pm »

Quote from: Malenko on September 12, 2011, 10:26:42 pm

DONT LEAVE THE KEY IN THERE!

I worked late didnt get a chance to pull out my MKII board. the pix you have are of a legit MKII board. look up the dips, Im pretty sure yours is set to france.

It doesnt matter now anyway, I've destroyed the adjuster. The allen key pokes all the way through now and touches the chassis and I received a little shock, didn't get hurt but it scared the hell out of me. I'll take a look at the dips again. Is there any way to use a computer monitor with an arcade cabinet? I never really wanted to mess with the thing to begin with, but the width was driving me nuts. I'd replace the monitor but I don't really know how to discharge and I'm a little afraid to, also monitors are expensive and I already paid too much for this machine anyway.

Ryoshin · « **Reply #12 on:** September 12, 2011, 11:10:14 pm »

I think you were right about it being on French, I turned all dipswitches off. My coinage issue seems to be gone, but i'm still getting bad U49 and failure in CMOS RAM in test menu.

EDIT: Now I'm getting extremely low sound. I can't change it in the test menu either, I mean I can but as soon as I enter it and go back to check it it has reset. It is also impossible to change difficulty as when I click on the menu the screen just flashes like it's about to change screens but just shows the same screen again, so basically it just reloads the test menu, no way to get in there. The difficulty setting thing I've always had a problem with just decided to throw that in there because i forgot before. Guess I also should have mentioned that the sound board light is on, but now I can't even hear any sound.

Malenko · « **Reply #13 on:** September 13, 2011, 07:41:22 am »

find the U49 and apply a lil bit of pressure to it, it should clear the issue unless the chip has gone bad. Its not a socketed chip, if you need to replace it, you need to de/re-solder it. As for not saving the volume and difficulty, thats due to the CMOS not being in memory.

leave all your dips off except for 2,3,and 4 in bank 2. That'll give you free play

Where are you located? If you dont mind me asking, how much did you spend on the game? Theres a seller named Q*Bert_Op that sells PCBs he might have a replacement MKII for ya, I just got an MK1 from him for $60 shipped. (Now I just need to find a non Ultimate MK3 and maybe an MK4 so I can wire up a MultiKombat machine inside my MKII cab =)

I sort of regret telling you had to adjust the width coil now that its ruined, but I tried to stress you need to use a plastic tool and not a metal one , sorry.

leapinlew · « **Reply #14 on:** September 13, 2011, 09:24:08 am »

Gah! Holy crap Ryoshin, I'm sorry bro. I used a metal one on mine after doing some reading and the general consensus seemed to be that it would get extremely hot, but you can do it (especially if you turn off the monitor between adjustments). I had no idea it could even melt the plastic.

I saw replacement horizontal width coils reasonably priced. I feel real bad about this. Why don't you replace the horizontal width coil and let me know how much it costs. I will gladly pay, for a replacement coil.

Ryoshin · « **Reply #15 on:** September 13, 2011, 12:12:07 pm »

Quote from: Malenko on September 13, 2011, 07:41:22 am

find the U49 and apply a lil bit of pressure to it, it should clear the issue unless the chip has gone bad. Its not a socketed chip, if you need to replace it, you need to de/re-solder it. As for not saving the volume and difficulty, thats due to the CMOS not being in memory.

leave all your dips off except for 2,3,and 4 in bank 2. That'll give you free play

Where are you located? If you dont mind me asking, how much did you spend on the game? Theres a seller named Q*Bert_Op that sells PCBs he might have a replacement MKII for ya, I just got an MK1 from him for $60 shipped. (Now I just need to find a non Ultimate MK3 and maybe an MK4 so I can wire up a MultiKombat machine inside my MKII cab =)

I sort of regret telling you had to adjust the width coil now that its ruined, but I tried to stress you need to use a plastic tool and not a metal one , sorry.

I cannot find the U49 chip unless that only sharp chip I told you about is the right one. I'm located in Jacksonville, FL. I paid $325 for this, I think I overpaid a bit considering the shape of the cab. It's not an original though, like I said, and in the heat of the moment I felt this was a decent deal considering I've never seen a MK II machine for less than like 900 bucks. The thing was sitting outside and I booted it up to make sure it was working but I couldnt really tell about the screen issue because the sun was blaring on the screen, could barely see, could just tell it was working. I'm not too worried about the width coil anymore. The weird thing was just sticking the allen key in there fixed the picture, but I couldn't turn it, does that mean it's probably a cap problem?

Ryoshin · « **Reply #16 on:** September 13, 2011, 12:14:27 pm »

Quote from: leapinlew on September 13, 2011, 09:24:08 am

Gah! Holy crap Ryoshin, I'm sorry bro. I used a metal one on mine after doing some reading and the general consensus seemed to be that it would get extremely hot, but you can do it (especially if you turn off the monitor between adjustments). I had no idea it could even melt the plastic.

I saw replacement horizontal width coils reasonably priced. I feel real bad about this. Why don't you replace the horizontal width coil and let me know how much it costs. I will gladly pay, for a replacement coil.

It's not that big of a deal man. The damned thing just wouldnt turn. Of course it could've easily been user error. Replacing coils/caps requires taking the monitor out and I'm deathly scared of that thing. What's the best/easiest way to discharge one of those bad boys? I've googled a bit, but didnt get too much into, maybe one of you guys could tell me the best way for a noob.

Malenko · « **Reply #17 on:** September 13, 2011, 12:39:50 pm »

I'll pull my board out and take a pic of the U49 when I get home (in about 4 hours) as for the width coil, post in the monitor section. I know a lot about the MKs but I cant say so much about monitors.

Malenko · « **Reply #18 on:** September 13, 2011, 04:23:22 pm »

OH MY GOD!
I cant believe I didnt notice this earlier!
YOU'RE MISSING A BOARD! The daughter board. I took pictures of mine, I couldnt find the U49 chip either but Im mega swamped with work and studying for my 70-680

Ryoshin · « **Reply #19 on:** September 13, 2011, 04:25:17 pm »

You have an older revision than I. I have revision 3.1 and I'm pretty sure they redesigned the board and got rid of the daughter board if my research is correct.

Malenko · « **Reply #20 on:** September 13, 2011, 04:37:02 pm »

Quote from: Ryoshin on September 13, 2011, 04:25:17 pm

You have an older revision than I. I have revision 3.1 and I'm pretty sure they redesigned the board and got rid of the daughter board if my research is correct.

MK1 went from Y unit boards to T unit boards. Which version of MK you want me to put in my boards? mine was originally a 3.1 when I got it

Theres 8 roms on the daughter board, rom revisions are only 2. I put in the 3.1 roms and pulled the extra board, game dont run.

Ryoshin · « **Reply #21 on:** September 13, 2011, 04:43:31 pm »

Quote from: Malenko on September 13, 2011, 04:37:02 pm

Quote from: Ryoshin on September 13, 2011, 04:25:17 pm
You have an older revision than I. I have revision 3.1 and I'm pretty sure they redesigned the board and got rid of the daughter board if my research is correct.
MK1 went from Y unit boards to T unit boards. Which version of MK you want me to put in my boards? mine was originally a 3.1 when I got it

Theres 8 roms on the daughter board, rom revisions are only 2. I put in the 3.1 roms and pulled the extra board, game dont run.

I don't know. I just know I don't have one of those boards and my game runs. I have 12 roms, 14 if you count the two that say 3.1 on them.

I just booted it up and it was on free play which is weird, as I have all dipswitches turned off. But it's working.

Malenko · « **Reply #22 on:** September 13, 2011, 05:01:42 pm »

you have less roms than me too?!?!?!?!

you say its working, no issues picking any characters or game resets as you progress up the ladder?

Ryoshin · « **Reply #23 on:** September 13, 2011, 05:07:08 pm »

no issues picking characters so far. At first when I got the cab I was having issues with the game rebooting randomly, but it hasnt done it since i adjusted the voltage. The only problems I seem to be having are the cmos ram problems.
EDIT: I just did a google search and the daughter board is a memory expansion board, not all MKII boards had this, it seems some boards (like mine) used bigger roms.

Also, the chip right next to the top revision rom is the U49 I believe. I can't find U49 printed anywhere on the board but that's the only SHARP chip I can find.

Malenko · « **Reply #24 on:** September 13, 2011, 05:55:23 pm »

I have NEVER seen a fully working MKII PCB without the expansion board. I cannot find anything saying they cut the extra board (until MK3)

Ryoshin · « **Reply #25 on:** September 13, 2011, 06:07:38 pm »

Quote from: Malenko on September 13, 2011, 05:55:23 pm

I have NEVER seen a fully working MKII PCB without the expansion board. I cannot find anything saying they cut the extra board (until MK3)

http://www.neo-geo.com/forums/showthread.php?190533-Mortal-Kombat-II-memory-expansion-board

Malenko · « **Reply #26 on:** September 13, 2011, 06:16:43 pm »

learn summin new every day. Other than the U49 and the width coil youre good?

Ryoshin · « **Reply #27 on:** September 13, 2011, 06:28:49 pm »

Quote from: Malenko on September 13, 2011, 06:16:43 pm

learn summin new every day. Other than the U49 and the width coil youre good?

Yeah as far as I can tell. Just havin some CMOS problems cause of the U49. It doesnt throw up the U49 error most of the time, but still always says CMOS invalid, so I assume U49 is the culprit always.

xKalessinx · « **Reply #28 on:** September 13, 2011, 07:25:13 pm »

My MKII PCB is one of the later revision boards that do not require the daughter board. I have no issues with mine.

*My first restoration is still this ongoing MKII* Had some issues with side art.

Ryoshin · « **Reply #29 on:** September 13, 2011, 07:46:01 pm »

After letting my cab sit idle for awhile, I no longer have free play. Is that due to CMOS RAM issues, even though im using dipswitch coinage? And when using dipswitch coinage I still get CMOS errors.

Malenko · « **Reply #30 on:** September 13, 2011, 10:16:49 pm »

have you changed the CMOS battery?

I might get steph at hobbyroms to burn me new ROMs so I can pull the daughter card. If you want freeplay use the dip settings I posted earlier. If I were you, Id message qbert and get a new board. If your going to MAME it, well then just sell your board.

I read up more on the elimination of the daughter board, apparently you can still run whatever revision you want with the larger ROMs, even the fabled 1.1 set I havent bought yet.

Ryoshin · « **Reply #31 on:** September 13, 2011, 10:32:19 pm »

Quote from: Malenko on September 13, 2011, 10:16:49 pm

have you changed the CMOS battery?

I might get steph at hobbyroms to burn me new ROMs so I can pull the daughter card. If you want freeplay use the dip settings I posted earlier. If I were you, Id message qbert and get a new board. If your going to MAME it, well then just sell your board.

I read up more on the elimination of the daughter board, apparently you can still run whatever revision you want with the larger ROMs, even the fabled 1.1 set I havent bought yet.

Yes, the first thing I did was change the CMOS battery. I have the dipswitches set to freeplay, but after it idled for awhile it's asking for credits/coins. I'm thinking about mameing if I can find someone interested in my board as I've posted it already in the for buy/sell/trade area, but if it can be easily fixed without much issue I'll fix it. I'm just getting frustrated with it, that's all.

Malenko · « **Reply #32 on:** September 14, 2011, 07:28:19 am »

you could always convert it to a different jamma game.

If you have it set to use dips, it wouldnt matter if the U49 is borked, it wont save high scores or other settings (like volume and difficulty) but it would still be set to free play. Check your dips to make sure they are "all the way over". If you want I can send you a Tekken II Ver B PCB (with kick harness) so you have something to play on your cab for the time being.

Ryoshin · « **Reply #33 on:** September 14, 2011, 11:48:10 am »

Yeah, it was working fine with free play but after I quit playing and let it sit for awhile in attract mode it wanted credits. I turned it off and back on played for a bit and let it sit in attract mode a few hours again and went back to it and free play was still there, so it's intermittent I guess. Tekken II? That's awesome I used to tear that game up on PSX. I would really appreciate that.

Ryoshin · « **Reply #34 on:** September 14, 2011, 11:52:19 am »

Quote from: leapinlew on September 13, 2011, 09:24:08 am

Gah! Holy crap Ryoshin, I'm sorry bro. I used a metal one on mine after doing some reading and the general consensus seemed to be that it would get extremely hot, but you can do it (especially if you turn off the monitor between adjustments). I had no idea it could even melt the plastic.

I saw replacement horizontal width coils reasonably priced. I feel real bad about this. Why don't you replace the horizontal width coil and let me know how much it costs. I will gladly pay, for a replacement coil.

Where did you see horizontal width coils for sale?

EDIT: I went to the Real Bob Roberts website. I can't figure out how to order anything. Nevermind I found the how to order page.

Ryoshin · « **Reply #35 on:** September 14, 2011, 02:24:41 pm »

According to Bob Roberts width coils for K7000 series were discontinued 3-4 years ago and he sold every last K7000 series parts chassis he had just for coils. Anyone know where I could locate one?

Malenko · « **Reply #36 on:** September 15, 2011, 11:17:51 am »

PM me a shipping address. After you get everything sorted or get another PCB you can ship back the tekken 2, no rush.

Ryoshin · « **Reply #37 on:** September 15, 2011, 07:05:09 pm »

Quote from: Malenko on September 15, 2011, 11:17:51 am

PM me a shipping address. After you get everything sorted or get another PCB you can ship back the tekken 2, no rush.

PM sent

Malenko · « **Reply #38 on:** September 16, 2011, 06:30:38 pm »

I'll ship it out next week. If you want, I'll trade you the tekken II (and cash if you want) for your busted MKII PCB and cables.

One thing to keep in mind is you are gonna hafta move your buttons for a tekken layout, because HP = LeftPunch BL = RightPunch, HK = Left Kick, and what ever you wire the 4th button to will be right kick. ALso, Tekken doesnt have start buttons, LP is also start.

confusing? prolly, but Im just a PM away.

Ryoshin · « **Reply #39 on:** September 16, 2011, 06:32:21 pm »

Quote from: Malenko on September 16, 2011, 06:30:38 pm

I'll ship it out next week. If you want, I'll trade you the tekken II (and cash if you want) for your busted MKII PCB and cables.

One thing to keep in mind is you are gonna hafta move your buttons for a tekken layout, because HP = LeftPunch BL = RightPunch, HK = Left Kick, and what ever you wire the 4th button to will be right kick. ALso, Tekken doesnt have start buttons, LP is also start.

confusing? prolly, but Im just a PM away.

What cables? the 2 audio board cables?


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