Voltage Multimeter Suggestions?

[jtslade]

Can anyone point me to a good quality voltage multimeter online that can be used for arcade games?

Something that does the voltage ranges found in Arcade Games, easy to use and of quality that it will last for a while with regular usage.

I have seen them from ten dollars to 300 for a Fluke meter, but what do I need to look for?

Thank you...

[matsadona]

Almost any would do it.
The most common voltages I measure is either (+/-)5 or 12V DC. Many multimeters have a 0-20V range, so that is covered.
And there is the live voltage range, i.e. 120V or 240V AC depending on were you live. That is also covered by almost every multimeter on the market.
It should also have a “beeper” mode, so that you can verify connection between different places in the circuit.

With this you cover most scenarios.
If you want to go hardcore you can also use transistor and diode measuring etc, but that is for replacing faulty parts on a pcb.

For more advance troubleshooting it could also be nice to have a logic analyzer and oscilloscope etc. But that is a different story with a different price range.

[TopJimmyCooks]

Don't laugh but I have gone through phases of working on guitar amplifiers, car stereo installation, computer networking, home rewiring and now, pinball repair for 15 years with one of these:  It's just starting to have to be slapped around to wake up.  



because of board repair I got some accessory probe hooks just recently.  Unless you are a pro or need longer leads regularly, it gets the job done for 98% of what's out there.  it was $15 way back when.  400V range and does what Matsu describes.  there are tons of multimeter reviews, showdowns of all available models within certain price ranges, etc. on the web.  

[tebrown]

I live Fluke meters because they are reliable and accurate. Most of the Flukes are "True RMS" which means the sine wave does not have to be a perfect sine to get an accurate voltage measurement. Unless you are doing lab grade voltage measurements and get the DMM (Digital Multimeter) calibrated annually, it doesn't make sense to spend $300 on a DMM, but I would still consider a Fluke (maybe the 114) for its ruggedness and reliability. My dad has a Fluke 76-II years and years ago, and that thing still works great.

Even if you don't get a Fluke, I would recommend something that is auto-ranging. If you don't know the voltage you are measuring, it's nice when you don't have to click through all the range settings to get something meaningful. I believe that all DMMs also have overcurrent protection fuses, but you definitely want that. The last thing you want to do is blow up your brand new DMM because you hooked it up wrong

[monkey puzzle]

I personally would go for a cheap multimeter. If it measures AC volts, DC volts and continuity then thats all thats important for you. I've used cheap meters in my work and had many years use of them. Accuracy will never be important unless you are getting into hardcore electronics. Usually you are just looking to see if you have 5V, 12V etc. It doesn't matter if your meter is reading 12V or 12.2V or 12.26V, CLOSE enough is GOOD enough.

[BobA]

+1 for the auto ranging as an incorrectly set range dial can mess up your reading.  It takes alot of guess work out of setting the dial for new users.

[mgb]

personnally, I use a Fluke, but only because I need a good meter for my job and it gets used every day.
But for a hobby meter, you really don't need to spend much at all.
definitely go with an autorange digital meter.
the main functions you want are ac and dc voltage, ohms, diode and some kinda beep scale.
make sure the meter does dc and actual ohms. some of those small electricians meters that they sell at places like Home Depot, only measure ac volts and shorts or opens.
It would also be benifit to be able to measure curent too.
check out the Ideal and Greenlee meters, they may fit your needs well.
depending on what you plan on working on, it also can be helpful to have in addition to a digital, a small cheap needle voltage meter for checking quick burst of voltage like that found in the degaussing circuit of a monitor.

[MonMotha]

For casual troubleshooting use, the $5 special from Harbor Freight is probably fine, but they aren't autoranging and may be more difficult to use.  The low end ones also usually lack a beeper for continuity checking.  The beeper isn't required, but it makes things a lot easier when probing stuff out quickly.  Some low end ones with a beeper also have a long delay before the beeper activates which diminishes the use of the beeper.

I do hesitate to hook a $5 cheapo meter up to AC mains.  You're talking about a source that can deliver lethal amounts of power into a device that probably isn't even turned on before you see it.  I've never had a problem, but it's tough to deny the possible hazard.  I have a little more confidence in the big names like Fluke to make something that won't blow up in my hand.

The high end meters do feature lots of features you won't necessarily need like true-RMS readings (for troubleshooting arcades, the only time I can see needing this is when measuring the filament voltage on a CRT).  Some do provide a capacitance meter which can be handy when troubleshooting arcade stuff.  The Flukes also mostly feature a rapid response "analog" meter part that can somewhat replace an analog meter in transient measurement applications.

I have a Fluke 114 now, but use it professionally and can easily justify the cost.  I used a $5 special for years before that without a ton of issue, but I was often frustrated at the lack of capabilities (again, consider my uses were probably more demanding than yours).  If you do get a cheapie, you might want to consider getting a better set of test leads.  It's amazing how much better a $10 set of leads are than what comes with those cheap meters.

[mgb]

Heres a Klein manual range meter at Home Depot for 25 bucks. Klein is a reliable name (albeit over rated).
Manual range is not too bad to use, just not as convenient as auto range, you just need to remember to be in the correct scale, for instance, when metering for 24volts dc, you need to put the meter in the 200vdc mode, not 20vdc.

http://www.homedepot.com/Electrical-Electrical-Tools-Accessories-Electrical-Test-Meters/Klein-Tools/Ideal/Gardner-Bender/h_d1/N-5yc1vZboffZrzZmiZ3xg/R-202565780/h_d2/ProductDisplay?langId=-1&storeId=10051&catalogId=10053

[Paul Olson]

Most meters will work OK, but if this is a hobby you plan on enjoying for a while, spring for a Fluke. High quality tools are nice to have. I disagree with what others have said about accuracy. Some of these arcade boards are very finicky, and a 0.5 volt swing on your meter will make it hard to troubleshoot. There are boards that only want to run correctly really close to 5.1 volts.

That being said, you don't really need Fluke accuracy, but it is nice to know that your meter isn't a problem. I use a Fluke 179 which can be found in the $100 range on ebay. I used a $35 radio shack meter for a few years, and it was fine, but I haven't touched it since I bought the Fluke. I think it is worth the cost to be able to use nice equipment, but if not, you can go cheaper.

Definitely get one with an audible continuity test. The $3 harbor freight ones don't have it.

[Blanka]

There are Chinese Fluke clones that are really good and do everything for 50$. These have RMS voltage metering, Farad capacitor measurement, frequency measurement etc.

[BobA]

There are Chinese Fluke clones that are really good and do everything for 50$. These have RMS voltage metering, Farad capacitor measurement, frequency measurement etc.

I have checked on the model numbers of these units and they are NOT CLONES just Fluke meters that are sold only in the Chinese market.  There are a number of reviews on them if you search out these particular models.  Clones may not live up to the Fluke standard but these come very close.  They are $75 and $94.

Fluke 17b

Fluke 15b

[Beley]

If you have about an hour to kill watch this:
http://www.eevblog.com/2010/06/04/eevblog-91-50-multimeter-shootout/

its actually fairly interesting and gives you a good idea about what to look for in a meter.

he also did a $100 meter shootout:
http://www.eevblog.com/2010/07/11/eevblog-99-100-multimeter-shootout-extech-amprobe-bk-precision-ideal-uei-uni-t-part-1of2/

and
http://www.eevblog.com/2010/07/11/eevblog-99-100-multimeter-shootout-extech-amprobe-bk-precision-ideal-uei-uni-t-part-2of2/

[MonMotha]

I just looked at my meter and realized it's a 115, not a 114.  I think the 114 is the HVAC oriented model with auto AC/DC low-Z, while the 115 has current metering.

The DX ones pictures appear to actually be real Flukes for the China market, but they have lower certifications.  Probably good enough for a casual use.  They don't do True RMS, and they lack a backlight, min/max, and the fast response bar-graph.  They do have smaller (generally more accurate, but check the specs) current measurement ranges and support temperature measurement to the otherwise roughly comparable 114/115.  The safety factor on them is lower, but supposedly actually tested, which is better than your $5 cheapies.

Perhaps I'm overly cautious with high-power sources like "the wall" and "giant stacks of batteries"...

[migraineman]

Sears actually carries a number of decent meters at reasonable prices.  I've bought several with the Type-K thermocouple for temperature measurement.  They're usually in the automotive section of the tools department.