Joystick microswitches

[danvan]

Hi all,

I recently put together a mame cabinet from an old jamma arcade machine. It used to have two butttons per player, but I altered the panel so it was 6 buttons per player. (see http://www.danvan.com/Arcade/ for photos etc). In the process I had to remove all the microswitches from the joysticks, rotate the joysticks 90 degrees, then put them back on. I'm pretty sure they're in exactly the right positions now, as the joystick has a small bit of plastic that goes through the holes on the microswitches to hold them in place.

Anyway, I am having a problem where in, say, Street Fighter, if I move the joystick on a diagonal - usually upper left - it will only register up or left, not the diagonal. A good jolt in frustration usually fixes it up. As I didn't really play it that much before the moving of all the microswitches, I'm not sure if there is physically a problem, if MAME is not registering the diagonal properly, or even if this problem was occuring before.

On the joystick in question I have 3 switches that are without a lever (like http://home.iprimus.com.au/ozstick/micro.jpg), and 1 that is(http://home.iprimus.com.au/ozstick/microlever.jpg). They are all pretty old I'm guessing. The joystick, when it's in a neutral position, is closer to some of the microswitches than others (i.e. the bottom is not centred perfectly).

I am thinking of changing all the microswitches to brand new ones with levers. Has anyone had any experience with these types of switches that could comment on their pros and cons on a joystick? Any other suggestions? I'd prefer to avoid spending too much more money on it, like replacing the entire joystick.

I haven't really played the second player joystick much (it's like riding in the back seat of your own car really ) but it doesn't seem to be having the problem as bad. All 4 of it's microswitches are without the lever.

Thanks
Daniel

[Lilwolf]

I'm assuming that you did this because the wires where soldered into the microswitchs on the joystick... right?

Other then that I'm not sure why you started taking the microswitchs off the joystick at all.

But here is a few recommendations.

1) get everything working on a table before connecting them to a cabinet if possible.  This allows you to see problems easily and see whats going on.  So on a predone jamma cab, just remove the joystick and play with it on your lap... boy that didn't sound right.  The problem is just a fine tooning... but might be something inside (I forget the name of all the parts inside.  But its probably the spring that tries to center the joystick is offcenter or something).

2) remove soldering and buy some disconnects.  Bob Roberts has them .187, not the .250 ones.  2.50 for 50 or something.  Pretty cheap.  Makes cabling SO MUCH EASIER!

3)  Buy replacement new joysticks!  WHAT A DIFFERENCE.  I bought my cab with 4 supers.  They seemed to work fine.  I got 2 new ones and they really really made a HUGE difference.  The old ones are now player 3 and 4 on a control panel I hardly ever use.

[danvan]

I'm assuming that you did this because the wires where soldered into the microswitchs on the joystick... right?

Yeah, they were pre-soldered and I didn't have the quick connects available so though it best to just leave them as is. Won't be doing that again.

But here is a few recommendations.

1) get everything working on a table before connecting them to a cabinet if possible.  This allows you to see problems easily and see whats going on.  So on a predone jamma cab, just remove the joystick and play with it on your lap... boy that didn't sound right.  The problem is just a fine tooning... but might be something inside (I forget the name of all the parts inside.  But its probably the spring that tries to center the joystick is offcenter or something).

Thanks, I'll remember that and check it out.

2) remove soldering and buy some disconnects.  Bob Roberts has them .187, not the .250 ones.  2.50 for 50 or something.  Pretty cheap.  Makes cabling SO MUCH EASIER!

3)  Buy replacement new joysticks!  WHAT A DIFFERENCE.  I bought my cab with 4 supers.  They seemed to work fine.  I got 2 new ones and they really really made a HUGE difference.  The old ones are now player 3 and 4 on a control panel I hardly ever use.

I'm hoping that I won't have to touch this again once it is up and running perfectly. I also plan, when I get some more money, time and approval from the better half, to build my own cabinet from scratch (4 player) and will definately be using quick connects and brand new joysticks/buttons/microswitches for that project. I guess there's nothing stopping me from getting two brand new joysticks in anticipation of using them for the next project, and just using them on this one for now... hmm....

Thanks for your input. Much appreciated.
danvan

[Broken]

man this thread is old, i'm experiencing similar problems. i intend to buy lever switches but i generally dont like the way they feel.. too diagonal heavy, but i'm not sure if its the lever or stick that makes it feel this way.