Kampcool Millipede

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Need to do a bearing job, or just replace the 3in rollerball here, and do some cosmetic enhancements   (parts on order, kids on machine).  On the back burner, while I get Defender/Mk2 up to code. 
 

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The new 3 inch Happ trackball showed up at the door today, and I swapped the old one out in minutes.   Only snag I had was my left was moving right, and right was moving left.  Simple enough, I just swapped Pin#1 with Pin#4 on the lateral side of the red board connector.  Easy Peasy, has raised my high score already.  Good Clean Fun, for sure. 

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      Ahhh Welll, It was fun while it lasted.   I came home from work early, and had the itch to play, and when I fired her up, I got a pop FIZZZZZ, with no picture.   Opened her up, and sure enuff the flyback blew, taking a 125v 1.5a slow fuse with it.  (f102, i do believe).   Ordering parts A.T.M, Bob used to have those fly backs (TLF-604 1F) on sale for 15 bux........Im gonna capkit her as well-- while I am at it.  The ride cross stateline, and down my basement stairs might have strawed the camels back.   I'll throw some pictures up as I go, gonna replace the power cord as well.   

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Wow, this thing is super neat and clean.   UNBELIEVABLE.

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1st ODD thing that caught my eye, was the whole reason I am In here, the FLYBACK...  I ordered a TLF6041f, and it is noticeably different (focus wire out of top instead of at bottom, no chasis mount holes on top).    I just cross referenced the numbers on a few different sites, and thats what everyone is calling for on a TM-202G.....  Plus Bob has never steered me wrong,          Im just gonna drive on with what I got, and make it work, I guess, unless some1 here knows better.
 


 

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All good on the recap/flyback job, here.  Millipede is rocking, now I can get back to work on my Defender cab.

[kampcool]

Ive been thinking on posting a picture step by step monitor capjob for some time now, and I might as well do it here.  On my G07, I took pictures of each and every cap replacement, as it was my first (but I was in no position to give advice as it was my first).  I'm crazy about pictures, its how I understand things when I ask myself questions.  Its how I "see" things.
 
#1) GET A GOOD DIGITAL CAMERA
#2) GET A PHOTOBUCKET ACCOUNT
#3) TAKE PICTURES OF EACH AND EVERY STEP
#4) SAVE AND LABEL EACH PIC OF EVERY STEP
 
In my opinion, this is a great way to go for the new starter.
 
I'm not gonna post a cap by cap tutorial here, just some things that have saved my behind during THIS successfull cap/flyback job.  Nothing was worse than that Wells Gardner job (where someone else had been before), PRAY you get an unrepaired project(for your first), and you will be just fine, if you do simple self help maneuvers

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TOOLS:   First off, I use two guns.  Dont you dare use that trigger blasting heat zapper on your 30 year old board (unless you are having trouble with your flyback desolder, or sometimes those heat shield brackets.  I just use the slow cheapie.

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get some of the thinest solder with flux
 

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Do not use pictured rubbing alcohol (as I am finding a tad harsh) I am using pure warm water and favorite used up toothbrush, semi-dry (dabbing up and drying board fully long before reinstall)
 

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Adjustable light source
 

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CAPMAP
 

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SMALL  wire Snips
 

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Sandpaper, and a wet sponge, washcloth
 

 

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DE-Solder Suction tool
 

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And a CAPKIT!   I like to lay these out in order of MicroFarads, from least to greatest, as this is how my checklists normally go.
 

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If a brand new guy to the hobby can get past the flyback discharge and monitor chasis removal (taking pix along the way), and he or she has all of the tools above....the rest is really easy.  Its about obsessivley taking your time, and doing the same proceedure Cap, by Cap. 
 
On a precaution note, you will be "flipping the whole chasis board" many times during a capkit, so make sure you have tons of light, room, and care while doing so.  You DO NOT want to be kickstanding your 30 yr old chasis board on a fragile point, for the sake of this proceedure.  I use props (like capkit boxes/solder holders) to stabilyze my work with THE utmost care of these old boards.
 
More to come soon, gotta crash...             

[kampcool]

1st thing I always do in my routine, after I find the 1st cap to replace is make a hard mental note of where the caps negative side is in relation to the board, capmap, board designators, and other caps.  
 
Then I get my board situated safley, bottoms up, ensuring the solder points.  Then I hit them with my rubbing alcohol dampened toothbrush, and clean the area.

Then I get my slow gun out and after 7 seconds (usually), draw the solder into my solder remover.

If this happens pick off solder with your fingers, and continue with heat, suction.
Get as much solder off as possible, ensuring you have room for new cap placement. Also ensure ALL solder gets removed, and doesnt land and wedge on other components.
Hit with the brush again
Ensure you install new cap in correct polarity, bend leeds so the cap is as close (and straight) to the board as possible.

Place gun simulatainiousley on the leed and the solder pad, waiting 8-10 seconds dropping the solder in at the leed, letting it draw and pool into the pad

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You Dont need to put a swimming pool amount of solder back in there, make it look like the rest.
Do the second leed, and after trimming the positive leed off (with small side cutters----SAVE it for future repairs)

trim the negative leed (discard),
Hit with the brush again, to clean any flux/solder splatter

[kampcool]

As I mentioned before, FLYBACKS and Heatshields (sometime you must remove heatshields in order to get to hidden caps) normally have ALOT more solder on them.  I hate using the trigger gun here, but for the sake of sanity its sometimes necessary.  BE CAREFULL NOT TO BURN YOUR BOARD!!!!!!!!!!  TRY THE SLOW GUN FIRST!!!!!!!!  The Flybacks normally have like 7-10 different points so you must be vigilant to get all leeds desoldered (pain in the arse), DO NOT CROWBAR PRY !!!!  Get all the solder off, and it will slowly let go, if you work and pull from the back, in a clockwise fashion all the way around.
Here Is a Picture of me removing the Flyback mounting screws 1st- before I remove the flyback (watch for these too)

[kampcool]

After installing all your new hardware, read the monitors manual like crazy, and findout the necessary required voltage, and checkpoints.

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Then you can start fine tuning that bad boy, and you will have saved a bundle.