Direct Mounting Leaf Switches

[D_Harris]

I'm not sure what is normal for use on wood control panels, but I was reading Bob Robert's site where he covers long and short button options.

Since I'm making some control panels, and the material will be 3/4" thick plywood, I was hoping to direct mount all my leaf switches so I wouldn't have to worry about or purchase more leaf switch holders as long as I use long buttons and recess the holes.(I think).

Anyway, I was just wondering if experiences with direct mounting make it more desirable than having to use holder.

Any advice would be appreciated.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

[VanillaGorilla]

I assume you're talking ala-williams control panels..Personally, I feel its a toss up. Direct mounting the leaf assemblies to the plywood works equally as well, as long as the leaf switch body is appropriate in distance/clearance from the button plunger. I had done this in the past when I had a hard time finding leaf switch holders. Now I have a crapload (40-50) thanks to ebay. I prefer the holders, if only because I can remove/re-install them repeatedly without running a screw in and out of the plywood repeatedly--that hole is gonna strip out sooner or later.... I If you only need a couple,  drop me a PM, I'll send em to you for the cost of shipping.

[RandyT]

I assume you're talking ala-williams control panels..Personally, I feel its a toss up. Direct mounting the leaf assemblies to the plywood works equally as well, as long as the leaf switch body is appropriate in distance/clearance from the button plunger.

That's the trick with the holders....getting the panel to be the correct thickness to get everything to be where it's supposed to be.  It's my opinion that a lot of what ailed operators when using leaf switches can be attributed to not getting this distance correct.  If the distance is incorrect, it can result in every press of the button hyper extending the leaves of the switch, which would of course knock them out of adjustment that much quicker.

It's a good idea to have some shims for leaf switch holders, if using a different than ideal panel thickness.  Personally, when I installed these types so many years ago, I went with a wooden block spacer instead.  Once you have the perfect thickness set up, knock out as many as you need (and a few extra).  Then drill clearance holes for the screws and screw into your panel, not the block.  You shouldn't have to pull them in and out often enough to create a retention problem, given how little stress is actually put on the switch part.

RandyT

[D_Harris]

I'm trying to visualize all of this.

As for the Williams control panels, I think the trick is to drill 1/2" holes all the way through. And then drill each hole down 1/4" with a 1-1/8" Forstner's bit.

Then you can use the "short" leaf switch buttons.

I do have several sets of the import joystick leaf switches: http://www.therealbobroberts.net/joyleaf4.jpg

They are shorter than the original Williams leaf switches:
http://www.therealbobroberts.net/wmsleaf.jpg

So the big question is, is it plausible to use them under the buttons anyway.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

[boardjunkie]

I kinda like the "direct to wood" mounting for leaf switches. That way you can back them off so the button tip contacts the switch at the very end instead of where the contact points are. Makes for a lighter, more consistant feel. You may need to dig up (or fabricate) something to use as spacers if teh switch needs to be a bit higher off the wood to remain straight (don't bend the blades to compensate, the contacts will have poor alignment).

You can also modify a switch holder to mount the switch back a bit by cutting off the "stud" at the back and drilling that out to take the screw. I've done this alot but I recommend gluing on some short plastic strips to the sides of the holder to keep the switch from shifting around.

My little secret: I like to use pinball slingshot kicker switches for buttons. They have a nice light feel and have an extra "damping" blade that keeps the shorter blade from bouncing or "ringing" during use. The damping blade is in front of the shorter blade so the action remains consistant.

The rainy day project: ditching leaf switches altogether in favor of slotted optos. With just one "blank" leaf blade bent to a 90 deg angle after the button tip, you can mount a slotted optointerrupter (and support circuit if needed) in the right place for even more reliable operation. Kind of a take on the WMS "fliptronic" switches.

[D_Harris]

My main issue is getting the leaf switches at the correct distance from the button plunger.

Bob Roberts recommends cutting down the holder when short buttons are what is available. http://www.therealbobroberts.net/leafsw.html

But after cannibalizing Track & field, Elevator Action, Mario Bros., and Pac-man control panels those "short buttons" aren't short enough for direct mounting the leaf switches.

So I found some buttons in a mystery harness and cut down some holders.

Now I'm entertaining the idea of gluing 1/4 pieces of wood to the underside of some control panels I'm making to get the leaf switches at the correct height.

Thanks.

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.

[VanillaGorilla]

Darren-

I have a bunch of the old black thin (read: low) switch holders! Dont cut down the white ones, I will trade you some of mine for some of yours if you like...

[D_Harris]

I'm actually trying to get away from using holders for all buttons.

What exactly are you looking for?

New?
Used?
Just the holders?
How many?

Darren Harris
Staten Island, New York.